November in Marrakech

Walking around and getting lost in the Souks and side streets is an absolute must, as the atmosphere is fantastic. Everyone is particularly friendly (especially once Ramadan was over, as they weren't dehydrated or bad tempered by the end of the day). Most people don't even want your money. I was actually quite surprised how low the "hassle factor" was.

Quick Tips:

TIP: Consult a map frequently. Mind you that even then it's not easy unless you read Arabic, as most of the street signs in the Medina (old town) are not in Roman script. On the first night, we were more lost than we ever have been-ever! We ended up being diametrically opposite to where we wanted to be, having to ask for directions from a couple of women who were walking by in the street, who felt rather sorry for us and walked with us for about 30 minutes until we were on recognisable ground. They were very helpful, and we learned a lot about Moroccan life (thank god I spoke a bit of French!).

Another tip: Give a little money to the begging widows, as they are properly destitute, and it's beautiful to see their faces light up at the sight of 10 Dirhams (about , a lot of money to them).

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking is the best way to get around. Supratours do a reasonable bus service to Essaouira from Marrakech, though.

We found this riad on the web about a week before we went, and luckily, they had accommodations free. In Marrakech riads are buildings with enclosed courtyards, designed for shade and keeping the Moroccan sun off the residents of the building. To this effect the Riad Malaka is supremely designed, with a central courtyard shaded by banana, date, and orange trees, and two storeys of buildings on each side. We were shown to our room by a supremely helpful member of staff, who confirmed that we had booked dinner that evening in the riad.

Our room was on three levels, with the entrance on the mezzanine and quite steep stairs going down to the living area, consisting of a fantastic bed, desk, and a television corner (complete with a DVD player and a stereo system). The decor was opulent, a fusion of traditional Moroccan furnishings, Art Deco, and 1950s retro-style furniture. The bathroom upstairs on the top level was spectacular, with a large stand-alone bath and Moroccan tiling. There was a private terrace, not overlooked by anything, and several shared terraces.

There were two main communal areas-the library/dining room and a bar next to the plunge pool in the basement. Both areas had a log fire that was very well appreciated during the 2 rather cold days we spent there. The library again was spectacularly furnished in a similar way to the above, with beautiful lighting. This is where dinner was served.

We decided to have dinner there the evening of our arrival, and were treated to some of the finest Moroccan food I’ve tasted. The tablecloth had rose petals scattered over us and the service was leisurely, unhurried, and excellent. The food was outstanding that first night, and we therefore decided to eat there the next night too, which was a good thing because during the next night and the one after, it poured with rain, not something Morocco is quite geared up for! Every night we ate there, the food was different and consisted of a starter (the meze was particularly good) and either couscous or tagine for the main course (well done, particularly on the lamb and quince tagine-it was out of this world).

I would not hesitate to recommend this riad to anyone, as the service, food, and accommodation was without fault.