Gary's Puerto Vallarta Travels

I stayed here many times before buying my condo. The staff from the front desk to the maids to the gardeners and pool guys are all very friendly and many have worked there since inception. Gated entranceway 24/7, nice roof top pool and sunning area, 360 degree view, and restaurant below is upper level but snacks are affordable. Check them out. Hard to rent as individually owned so get there and ask around, get contacts.

Open 5pm to 12am; Closed Sunday, some holidays, and most of September.

This is in an open square near Hotel San Marino, run by Chris May and Sol Rosenshein from Palm Springs, California. They have a varied menu, and all items are very reasonably priced and pleasant. It is alfresco dining, and you may have to wait for a table. It has become the area's hot spot.

They serve Mexican and American fare with a flair! Almost all entrées are at or below 100 pesos. Daily specials include the New York steak for 99p, coconut shrimp with mango sauce for 105p, mussels for 89p, grilled fish for 95p, combo fajitas for 85 to 95p, chicken saté or mole poblana for 85p, meatloaf for 75p, and cherry cola barbeque ribs for 99p, which includes a cup of soup du jour, such as matzah ball or chilled avocado. They also have a decadent brownie ice cream sundae, New York cheesecake, or flaming flan for 35p. There are many martini and margarita concoctions for between 49p and 59p. They do not accept credit cards.

Gary's guide...
garyrbeck1@yahoo.com

Open 9am to 11pm; Closed Tuesday, September 15 to October 15, and some holidays.

This is a family-run spot that, for years, has seen their place expand - overhead fans were added and prices have risen. It features large inside trees and whimsical artwork, many times for sale. It is a great stopover for simple authentic Mexican fare in addition to clay pot cinnamon coffee, breakfast chilaquiles, barbeque, a Mexican combo platter for 105p, a huge seafood platter for two people for 430p, octopus in garlic for 90p, steaks for 165p, carne asada for 88p, ribs for 95p, chiles rellenos for 63p, tacos or tostadas for 60p, the best combo enchiladas for 68p, chicken for 85p, pork tamales in a banana leaf for 38p (Mindy loves them), twice-baked potatoes from the outside grill for 15p, tasty tortilla soup for 40p, and guacamole for 40p. Meals include good crispy chips, salsa fresca, and a nopales [cactus] salad. It is loud and busy in high season, with long lines that move quickly and are sociable! No reservations or credit cards.

Gary's guide...
garyrbeck1@yahoo.com

Open from 2 to 11pm, Closed Monday.

This was formerly Jalapeños, run by do-it-all Cesar and his wife Jada (say hi!) for 9 years. There is music most nights in high season. All-you-can-eat four meats is 80p. The chorizo is spicy and non-greasy. They also have chips, salsa, and fresh tortillas. From 2 to 4:30pm, they also offer light repasts as tortilla soup for 28p, guacamole for 35p, nachos for 40p, beef quesadillas for three for 45p, and tacos chorizo or carne asada for three for 40p.

It is in a beautifully remodeled brick building with climbing plants and a small outdoor seating area. They people are friendly and the food is very good. They don't accept credit cards.

11am to 6pm, closed Sunday and all summer.

Since 1995, Hank Muffett and Conrad Kostelecky from Portland, OR, have found their pleasant niche one block up from Playa Los Muertos, serving lunch and early dinner. Spit-barbeque rotisserie chicken, 59p [ready around 11:30am], over potato chunks is wonderful, as are the plump hamburgers, 53p [best in Vallarta?], and potato salad. Side orders are 12p for a small, 24p for a large, and include French-dip, 57p, and chicken or chef's salad, 57p. Fresh iced tea, lemonade, and sodas are 12p, and beer is 18p. All food can be take-out, but whole chickens must be ordered before noon for 5pm pick-up. Jungle atmosphere in a courtyard of an old casa. Airy rear seating among plants. Lovely. Large local clientele.

Open 5pm to10pm, Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Carmen Porras E.'s and Chef Juan Manuel Cruz J.'s eclectic menu of appetizers are good for sharing at dinner. Named after a Jaliscan flowering tree, it offers old Mexican family recipe specialties, including pozole de camarón 35-80p, black bean soup 45p, four quesadillas filled with Oaxacan cheese and mushrooms or poblano strips (rajas) 60p, four plantain empanadas 60p, four ceviches 70-80p, two duck (pato) tostaditas 45p, nopal cactus pad salad with panela 55p, chicken breast pasilla 110p, chiles en nogada, a very fine beef tenderloin mole 130p, pork chop with almond pecan sauce 110p, duck carnitas 155p, and grilled fish fillet achiote 130p. Seafood enchiladas with hazelnut mole and chiles rellenos de jaiba (crab) 170-200p are among the weekend specials. Bob reports that they have camote (sweet potato) in a honey sauce with vanilla ice cream, flan with a cajeta sauce, or chocolate flan, all 45p.

There is an open kitchen and a rather lovely romantic, partially covered courtyard. Pat adds that it is "styled with Mexican influence." They have attentive service and abundant portions with reasonable prices. Many Saturdays they have live music, but call first.

Located between Peru and Avenida México near Hotel Buenaventura.

11am-8pm, closed Saturday

This has been an American food fix since October of 2003, serving such north-of-the-border faves as French onion soup, chili con carne, or macaroni and cheese 30/50p, meatloaf dinner with soup or salad, potato or mac and cheese, and veggie 80p, meatloaf sandwich 35p, burger or BLT 40p. Filet mignon 105p (high season only) and lasagna 80p. Owner/chef James Myers from Oregon says that homemade "killer brownies" are a popular item, 15p, with ice cream, 25p, as is all-you-can-drink brewed iced tea, 15p. Home-baked cinnamon raisin bread, beer, and wine served. A/C. From my free guide, just ask.

Place closed 2005.

5:30pm-11pm, closed Sunday in the summer and September

This is an old Mexican family-run location (Hi to Lola Bravo and Cuco!), very small and intimate and very down-home. Its menu features old recipe dishes and indigenous sauces that are not offered often elsewhere. Ask about the cookbook. The special unique Mexican Plate is 145p, chiles en nogada or rellenos is 80p, pork with garlic chile ancho sauce is 85p, pork loin in orange sauce is 95p, shrimp Giovanni is 175p, and the "best" Puebla chicken mole is 110p, cream of peanut soup is 45p, wonderful tortilla soup is 40p, and generous guacamole and Panela cheese with chile de tenir (ancho) sauce is 50p. Artwork immortalizes Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, plus Hollywood stars. This is not a place which will soon be forgotten. Placemats have clever information. Top margaritas. Reservations recommended. Non-smoking. No CC.

9am-11:30pm

This is one of the most beautiful settings in Vallarta, owned by Margarito Larios. Tiny white lights on trees overhang the Río Cuale, open-air seating has ample room, and there's friendly, fast service by handsome meseros. Menu changes, often featuring the finest the chef has to offer, include starters like beautiful calamari, 92p, mussels in chipotle cream sauce, 129p, farmer's soup in puff pastry, 69p, smoked salmon blini, 94p, seafood fettuccine, 154p, and tuna carpaccio, 89p. Favorite entrees are pan-seared tuna, 189p, mahimahi wrapped in Serrano ham, 179p, pecan coconut giant shrimp, 220p, chicken mango, 169p, and rib-eye Bordelaise, 215p. It's all very creative; do not miss the desserts, 60p, like warm chocolate cake, cinnamon apple pastry, and the best crème brulée (Vicki) or the famous dessert coffees. Paintings are by local artist Marta Gilbert, a regular here in the lounge. Buy a poster and have her sign it for you. Jazz by Beverly and Willow is there often, and Latcho and Andrea and sometimes Willie and Lobo Thursday to Sunday, 8-11pm. Tropical elegance. A top treat!

Open 2-11pm, Closed Sundays and in September

Hungry for Asian cuisine? In 1986, the personal chef of John Huston founded this place that features a combination of Thai, Filipino, and Chinese cuisines reflecting his heritage. Now his widow Cyndi Alpenia, trained chef son Sergio, and lovely daughter Kyoki run it, and the food is very good.

Fork-tender beef tongue is a simple dish in coconut milk and mild spices 195p; sizzling mahimahi fillet in banana leaves, lemongrass, garlic, chilies, and cilantro 135p; Chinese sesame cucumbers 38p; crisp spring rolls, lumpia 365p; chicken sate 365p; shrimp coconut soup 65p; Thai hot and sour soup 55p; red or green curry chicken 140p; ginger stir-fried vegetables with chicken 77p or beef 85p; pad thai 120p; pancit 85-95p; lime cheese pie 48p; triple chocolate fudge brownie 42p; and exotic drinks, such as the mint cascade drink 28p.

There is sometimes the live quiet, soothing music of D'Rachael on vocals, harp, and flute (now Thursday to Saturday, 7:30pm to 10:30pm.) Ceiling fans and lovely plants abound.

Open 2 to 11pm.

They have two churrascaria locations that feature all-you-can-eat meats (about 12) served by skewer (gira) wielding meseros dressed á la Brazil with soccer jerseys, though the meats are local, including very tasty rib eye, sirloin, turkey, and chorizo. It includes assorted salads, rice balls, and fried bananas. A huge mango tree grows right in the center! Come very hungry and ask them to go slowly (good luck!). There is air-conditioning for nonsmoking comfort, plus smokers have their own open-air room. Meals for men cost 170p, meals for women cost 140p!

8am-10pm, closed Monday

This has been a part-inside, part-elevated sidewalk street café since 1996 and is now owned by Grant Hunermund and Kieran Justason from Toronto, Canada. It features simple Mexican and American fare as 1/3-lb. burger with French fries, 50p, BLT, 45p, turkey club, 53p, chef's salad, 55p, taco salad with choice of meat, 53p, meatloaf, 80p, fried chicken, 75p, mac and cheese, 75p, green salad with soup and bread, 38p, half-rack baby back pork ribs, 80p, full, 99p, fajitas, 90p, mahimahi, 88p, whole fish, 94p. There's also breakfast hotcakes or French toast, 55p, eggs Benedict, 58p, meat lover's omelet with chorizo, bacon, and ham, 60p, chicken fried steak with fried eggs, 53p.

October-March: Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings, 5pm-10pm, 110p. Adult Soda Fountain Cocktails [floats, sodas, shakes], Mama D´s Margarita Club: Buy 9, 10th is free. Saturday night, meet Mama D. No CC.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide

Open noon to 8pm, Closed Monday

A huge 120-year-old Parota tree outside signals that this is the place! Bring a big appetite. There are five different combination plates (platters, actually) of fish, shrimp, and seafood. There are friendly, efficient waiters and very reasonable prices for both food and drinks. Watch out for the salsas: they serve three - hot, hotter, and guaranteed to make you cry. There are six combo fish and seafood platters served with a marlin taco, a cup of soup, dessert, and Kahlua for 99p, a mixed seafood salad for 90p, fajitas for 75p, ceviche for 60p, and huge seafood soup for 3p. This restaurant is noted for its seafood, but there is a fine grilled meat platter for 90p and ribs for 75p. This is a family restaurant with a children's area on left. Children have a special menu, with foods priced at 49p. They serve fresh limonada. Tiffany says that it’s definitely worth the taxi or bus ride! They do not take credit cards. Say hi to Jim!

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide

Open 5 to 11pm

This is an old family casa turned into a small eight-table spot with attention to detail in food and décor with Mexican Talavera and French posters. This is a find, but it’s not too hard to find, just out of the way. Huachinango in a banana leaf, salmon in ginger butter, filet medallions in an ancho sauce, seafood chiles rellenos, crab cakes, corn fritters, onion chile rolls, and Caesar and "garbage" salads are specialties, but the menu varies. Say hi to Piano, Christine, Frank, and Jaime! Reservations are recommended. They do not take credit cards.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide

Open 1 to 9:30pm, Closed Monday

This is the local family seafood restaurant of Martin and Daniel Ramos that is near the small tunnel in the lower hills. It features fine homemade tortillas and simple authentic fare. It’s great for budget travelers. Go early to avoid a line. There is good tortilla soup for 30p, queso fundido in salsa verde for 60p (molcajete), barbeque ribs 65p, huachinango pirey with salsa verde for 90p, stuffed fish for 90p, arrachera (four kinds for 85 to 90p), chicken romero, and shrimp trastamal for 90p. The fish is sometimes overcooked. Many love it, especially for the low prices, but there are mixed reviews. No reservations or credit cards.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide

Breakfast: 8am-11:30am, Lunch/Dinner: 11:30am-10pm

This has been a hidden secret since 1995 [10 tables] and is worth the trek up the small hill near the Guadalupe Church. There's an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet for 45p and a lunch/dinner buffet for 65p. From soup to dessert, the menu includes fresh beverages and many choices of fruit, side dishes, salads [cactus, mango], corn-black bean salad, entrees like soy enchiladas, eggplant, banana lasagna, falafel in tomato sauce, curry tempura, couscous, beets, tofu, and cakes. Nothing but plants, plant products, and some milk-based products are used. Meal choices change daily and seasonally but are plentiful. It makes for a special, filling meal in a wonderfully colorful cafe. No CC.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide

1pm-12am, Closed Monday

Benjamin Torres' local favorite secret since 1994 serves very reasonably priced Mexican family recipes such as pollo mole rojo 68p, chiles rellenos 52p, snapper in garlic 72p, ceviche 48p, tortilla soup, Mexican plate 98p, chicken marsala 72p, carne asada 78p, and the fish of the day. Limonada 22p, national beer 14p, wine 28p, and fresh daiquiris 32p are available. There is eclectic whimsical decor and attentive service by Sebastián.

4pm-12am, Closed Sunday

In the corner of a small building since 1995, Dommenico Mimmo Lorusso's place serves up very fine small, wood-fired pizzas [24 types, including calzone 70-95p] and pastas [pesto, Arrabiata, or four cheeses all 78p]. There is good ravioli and lasagna, both 83p; seven styles of spaghetti; cannelloni; fusilli; penne; shrimp pesto or Diavolo 199p; chicken funghi 121p; beef medallions four styles 135-145p; and starters such as fried calamari 98p, antipasto, garlic mushrooms, insalatas 42-50p, and tasty bruschetta 42p. Order several items and share. Close your eyes and you are dining in Italia. There is very friendly and attentive service coupled with good prices. This is a cozy spot that is mostly outdoors with indoor air-conditioning, wonderful food, and great local scenery.

www.donpedros.com, donpedros@pvnet.com.mx

The beach patio is open from 11am to 11pm and the upstairs dining room is open from 5 to 11pm. It is closed from August to October 1.

This is an elegant beachfront palapa with beach patio dining open to the bay offering Mediterranean/Mexican cuisine. Chef Nicholas Parrillo serves wood-fire pizzas 95-165p, herb bread, garlic lemon chicken 95p, steamed mussels 85p, Moroccan chicken salad 75p, Greek shrimp Feta salad 95p, linguine with mussels and clams 125p, fresh local fish 125p, and wonderfully rich mango ice cream. There is excellent service. Joyce reports she had an "awesome shrimp and bacon pizza 155p and beer, but the menu is limited." Sherrye raves "superb, scrumptious." There is live music with featured musicians such as Latcho and Andrea on Thursdays. Call first.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide

sandrinasmx@hotmail.com, www.sandrinas.com
11:30am to 10:30pm, closed Tuesday

Owner Sandra Neumann (Sandrina, in Spanish) has created a unique, lovely garden getaway where you can enjoy her specialties. Food preparation has a Mediterranean/Greek accent, with wonderful creations such as hearts of palm with feta, garbanzo, and chili mayo 80p; Saganaki fried Greek cheese 65p; snapper fillet and garlic shrimp with two kinds of pesto 175p; pizzas 75-90p; pita with hummus, pesto and chicken 55p; breakfast bagel with scrambled egg, ham, and cream cheese 35p; and blue cheese mushroom burger on garlic toast 75p, plus an array of tempting desserts. You are treated to Sandrina's artistic endeavors, including original artwork on canvas and uniquely tiled walls and benches in a garden courtyard. There are Martini Monday and Sangria Saturday specials. There is live music some evenings, but call first. Call about morning Internet breakfast special, plus jewelry by Stefan Wednesday and Sunday nights in season.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide

What can I add? The high tech choco pancakes sound weird for a meal between 10am and 2pm but they are superb. The eggs Benedict are among the best, huge, great. Avoid going on Saturdays and Sundays due to crowds. I love weekdays around 1pm. OJ, freshly squeezed, was 18 pesos last week!

Tonight was one of those special evenings not soon if ever forgotten. Bob Price, owner of the PV Botanical Gardens hosted a Full Moon dinner. Anna and I were thrilled to attend. Orchids seemed to be growing everywhere you looked! In the open air second floor area, Latcho and Andrea, of La Cruz, supplied lively but mellow Flamenco music and vocals. Some were even brave enough to dance—Bob, Judy, and Pat! Liana Turner of Paradise Bakery and her own catering company [anyone need a top-quality one?], prepared the three-course menu consisting of lovely tomato salad with beet curls, choice of beef medallions in a Cabernet reduction or fire-roasted salmon spirals with soy and ginger, slightly smoky yet moist, with a light spinach mousse and scalloped white and sweet potatoes and a divine chocolate torte with creamy light mousse filling.
Tasty El Tuito coffee finished the meal for me. We were courteously served at a large square table formation decorated with Bob's own flowers and bright cloths. Luminarias were glowing all around the two story home and center. I only knew a few attendees: Betty, Bob's sweet mom, Pat Henry of local Tango classes at J&B's, and former world sailor, and Cyndi Alpenia, owner of Archie's Wok. We finally headed north after much chattering and laughing!

Muchas Gracias, Bob and to everyone involved.

Gary San Francisco, CA./Puerto Vallarta, JAL.
groups. yahoo.com/ group/Puerto_ Vallarta_ OldTown_SouthSide

cafepress. com/vallartaguide

"We had the dust of Mexico on our shoes and the love
of Mexico in our hearts..."

October 19, 2004

Busy busy busy. Flew out of a cold and rainy San Francisco to Paradise on a 100% full Alaska Airline jet -- a bit bumpy, but uneventful, and landed at 3pm PV time to a welcome from Diana. Great way to enter Mexico and be driven to your casa and stop wherever else you desire, as to pick up pesos. Checked into Boana Torre Malibu with dear office lady Suzanne and headed up the elevator with Hermes lugging my bags and a jug of water. Yes, it is hot and humid, clear and sunny. Lovely. My unit has two good fans, which run all the time, plus a sliding door onto the balcony, allowing brisas from the Bahia de Banderas and a super-unblocked view north and south. Almost all the units here are one-bedroom with two baths, each with a shower, hall sink area, kitchenette, table for four, two couches, one of which pulls out into a double bed, and balcony facing west, with table for two to three. Cable TV, CD player, microwave oven, more amenities. Good rates, too!

Unpacked all my lightweight clothes and settled in briefly before hitting the sidewalks, looking at what had changed in the past five months and planning on a dinner of enchiladas at Cafe de Olla, where they make some of the very best...but they are closed on Tuesday. Roamed up and down Restaurant Row, ending back at a small indoor spot which I had never entered. Takos Panchos is a delightful simple, seven-table eatery with a chalkboard of various, very good, quick and tasty, light foods, to-go also. Tacos el pastor [shaved pork] are 5p, quesadilla chorizo 15p, combination tacos 4 for 30-45p, queso fundido 25p, parillas 12-20p, fajitas 55p, horchata or Jamaica 5p, and National beer 12p.

It has been six hours since landing, so time for a stop at my Internet café! Troubles with AOL, so worked only on Yahoo. Stopped at a number of places and wrote notes from menu with prices for my guide. Home, tired, and ready for sleep after some reading and planning.

Wednesday, October 20

Time to do some errands to get them over and done. Free up more time later! Talked with Denis here at BTM, got a phone calling card so I can maintain contact, and headed through Old Town. Chatted with a couple employees at La Palapa and firmed up date and time for next week. That is such a fine, beautiful, clean, and friendly place to stay, right in the center of activities. Café Centro is having staff problems so is not open except for their supper club. No lunch there today. Decided to check out La Ronda, Benjamín Torres' local favorite secret since 1994, serving very reasonably priced Mexican family recipes like pollo mole rojo for 68p, chiles rellenos 52p, snapper in garlic 72p, ceviche 48p and Mexican plate 98p, chicken marsala 72p and carne asada 78p. Eclectic, whimsical décor and attentive service by Sebastián. Needed to connect at Mama Dolores Diner, where the new paint and remodeling have brought more life into this wonderful, popular place. Talked with Tim of Toronto and made plans to return for Sunday turkey dinner. They have got a great venture going here! Mentally made plans to bring a couple groups of friends by later in the trip.

Needed a refreshing dip in BTM's remodeled pool, and the moderate water soothed my muscle aches. Quiet here for the most part, but wait until the calendar page flips to November! Dressed in my best tropical wares and met up with nearly 20 'allvallarta' people at CyC for sunset drinks. Jovial group, and just super, connecting a face and person to a user handle and name from the Internet. Oh, so you're...!!! This group has more plans for the next 21 days than one person could possibly do, so it is pick and choose. All of us ventured over to one of my local faves, La Piazzetta, where a long table had been assembled, and we ordered whatever pizza or pasta we desired. Three mariachis met up with us from the beach, and later, Jorge serenaded us, followed by his partner Lenny, so they sang a duet. Several of us purchased one of their fine CDs. Highlight was 20 gringos singing along with them to Hotel California! Group gradually broke up, and I had to get back online for a while, then back to BTM and worked offline.

Thursday October 21

Up at 6:30am, again at 7:30am to the alarm, made myself decent, and sauntered over to Memo's Pancake House, starting point for today's orchid/bromeliad jungle tour. After finding out that Sher and her two amigas were unable to make the trip as planned, due to three serious reasons, we ate pancakes or waffles, quaffed Memo's fine café, and headed north with TJ as our fearless driver guide. Up, up, up we headed on a rutted dirt road, as Angela remarked about her 200,000-mile journeys along such hidden Mexican byways, some departing San Blas. Around 5,000 feet elevation, he pulled over and we headed into the jungle or wooded forest rocky land, as I call it, by foot. Stopping every so often for a study of the local vegetation and crossing a creek about 20 times, we rested and turned around. No orchids blooming, but one large spike would be open in about three weeks. Many grouping on trees appeared to be at least 100-150 years old, and TJ remarked when that certain species blooms, the clump would have 10-15 spikes each with 8-10 flowers...spectacular! We had a road mishap and found ourselves stuck in a deep rut with collapsing soft soil. Two young guys stopped and spent a long time propping and jacking to get the right rear tire out of its deep dilemma. Almost there, when a truck of road workers finished with the day drove up behind us and had no choice but to lift and shove freeing our stranded car. It took them all of 30 seconds, and we were home free. Sigh. Trip down the road seemed to take 1/4 the time up and we were once again in town.

TJ took me to La Parota de Pancho Villa, a renovated family seafood eatery Jim opened a little over a year ago, known for good quality and huge portions. We shared two beautiful fish and seafood platters of red snapper, shrimp, and octopus, with rice and beans, salad, marlin taco, choco cake, and a kahlua if desired, all for 99p. Highly recommended.

Friday, October 22 Met with two new amigos, joined later by a local restaurateur, for lunch and some discussion about Internet webpage plans. Finally got to Pastel du Village, where French chef Eric Lenoir has opened a beautiful pastry shop with lunch items. We had quiche, ham-and-cheese croissant, and chicken tarragon, all served with a tossed green salad and fresh fruit mixture. He is adding some favorite entrees to the menu next week. Noticed my legs and arms are full of scratches and thorn damage from the trek yesterday, and my feet are swelling from the humidity. Off to farmacia...

I have been using my laptop in the hotel to write and organize, then transfer to a floppy disk, insert at the Internet café, and copy and paste into emails. Saves online time and pesos, plus I can take my time editing, adding, and correcting. Trying to remember everyone I promised to contact and arrange a get-together. Due to my legs and feet, I missed the CyC sunset fun and ended up later at Ocho Cascadas for their building Friday night party. Stayed and enjoyed a fine house-prepared Mexican dinner, by cook Betty, of mixed salad, guacamole, and salsa fresca with chips, chile rellenos, refritos and rice, finished with a sautéed banana with caramel syrup. Just excellent, coupled with good conversation in a super lovely locale. Conchas Chinas certainly has changed [grown] over the past 26 years of my travels here! Back in town, hooked up online for several hours, trying to catch up, then back to the hotel, relaxation, and bed.

Saturday, October 23

Slowed down a bit today, due to the walking and climbing exacerbating the pain in my feet and legs. Munched on two slices of leftover pizza for lunch. Managed to get to Viva's to look for a lady and to several nearby restaurants for menu and price notes. Found an amigo and his partner home in their new three-story casa, top two floors rentals, and sipped Jamaica, chatted for a couple hours, enjoying their little iguana resident who dines with the yellow canary in the bird cage, nibbling on broccoli! Too funny. Made several plans for the following 2.5 weeks. See, I do one thing and plan for three. Aaaah, as I say, if I stop exploring and learning, I stop living. After some time online, I changed my mind and bypassed CyC again, so I could take it easy by the condo pool or the upstairs balcony, with such a great view. Later, I took a short walk over to El Moreno Tacos, a local area favorite stand. Wooden block-pressed tortillas, very clean. Corn or flour tacos asada, machaca, adobada, or tripe for 6p, quesadillas 12p, birria asada 20 or 30p. Jamaica 5p. Enjoyed an assortment of four, which was fine for a light meal. Rested up for days ahead.

Sunday, October 24

The light white haze burned off by 10am, replaced by blue and warmth! The Bahia is shimmering, yet peaceful, while the beaches start to fill with local Mexican families, toting food and beverage-laden baskets, children shrieking in the surf, and older boys playing games. Their big day off, and it is used to share valuable time with each other. No cell phones, no palm pilots, no video games, and just good fun with family and friends. I could not get a shrimp salad out of my mind, so headed farther up la playa and sat at a table in the sand at Langostinos. The mixed salad, 65p, was excellent paired with a fresh mango smoothie, 20p. Talked with Irma about Oktoberfest at the Frankfurt in two weeks. Great sense of accomplishment! So many people out talking, walking, laughing, splashing, having a great day at the beach, for after all, it is Sunday. Jose, my muffin man for over 10 years, showed up to big greets and proudly showed his new product expansion to include various stuffed pastries and sandwiches. To support the local economy and his family back home, I purchased a ham, cheese, and jalapeno sandwich and a coconut cream-filled goody, 15p each, for la casa. Spent three big hours catching up on all the emails and postings. Already I had to buy another 10 hours for the 150p summer special.

Big sunset get-together at CyC, marked with the highest humidity of trip...lots of glowing ladies. Good group of Internet people and their partners who do not cyber much! Cooled a bit after the sun went down. Party broke off into groups, but most headed nearby to Las Margaritas, where I had not dined since days of yore, when the place was located on the malecon. Twelve of us sampled the menu, including a decent tortilla soup, impressive large Mexican plate for 90p, chiles rellenos, combo tacos, whole huachinango Veracruzana, and enchiladas. Marsha likes the arrachera. Inside is A/C, so off went the fans, and the doors closed, creating the coolness needed for all of us. After-dinner drinks were provided gratis to those who desired one. Eyes were full of tiny blue lights from all the photos taken. Cannot get away from the darn paparazzi, but I have grown used to it. Back to condo for some serious feet-soaking in the pool, followed by reading.

Monday, October 25

Some mornings are so quiet when you arise, with only the slow crashing of the waves and a few hungry birds squawking or conversing. Maybe include the low humming of the necessary overhead fans. Now the light dripping off the filter French roast coffee from the Coffee Cup. A new day begins, my eyes are open. Later, after a few quick munches on one of Jose's pastries, I am down the stairs and out the door once again onto the cobblestones I love. Stopped at Bancomer and exchanged at 11.30 pesos per dollar. After a short stop at the cyber cafe, off to the stop-over on Insurgentes for the Marina bus. Finally, one arrived, and off we rode, past Neptuno and the whales sculptures, curving past large hotels and condo complexes until Velas Vallarta. What a super entrance, looking straight open air to the Bahia. "Walk all the way to the front pool, the very last one", the employee stated. Ran into two friends and remarked how nice the brisas were there, along with the garden design, with goldfish pools and bridges. They dropped the temperature by about 10 degrees! With the water and sand in view, there were the canopy-topped tables and white chairs filled with all the amigos, sipping and chatting. Such a stunning, clean, lush tropical paradise, and not crowded. Later, as we munched on plates of nachos, guac, salsa, and fruit, the clouds got thick and billowy, the brisas turned to winds, the palm fronds went diagonal, the tables rocked...oh, this is the second anniversary of Hurricane Kenna! We were treated to sandy grit and salt spray in our mouths and eyes. Not a drop of rain, but wind and waves. This did not stop us from wading along the paths stretching from pool to pool. Refuge was finally sought in the hosts' suite, overlooking the entire Bahia and the town of Puerto Vallarta to the left. Kodak moment! Gradually, the friends dispersed, and home again by bus, 4 pesos, first stopping at several restaurants to chat with owners, hosts, or managers, checking hours, items, and prices.

Time to relax by the pool, soaking feet, listening to the waves and conversations. Decided to check out a referral, a seafood stand at Parque Lazaro Cardenas. Found out the name is La Cabaña del Choncho, Pino Suárez at Lázaro Cárdenas OT/SS. 2-11pm, closed Sunday. Burras [huge burritos] smoked marlin 40p, octopus 40p, shrimp 50p, or a combo of all three 60p, with pasta or jicama salad. Shrimp burger 50p, hot dog 15p, refrescos 8p, and daily agua fresca as Jamaica or horchata 5p. Ernesto has run this stand for over 10 years. Fantastic and very popular with gringos. The weather front changed our weather, and walking around after dinner, around 10pm, was so pleasant compared to the mugginess of last night!

Tuesday, October 26

The weather is most pleasant, with good brisas and temperature, billowy white clouds to the south. Quiet around the pool this am, but too early for most to be up and around. Over to the café for just a few emails to Puerto Vallarta folks, and then to friend's casa for a meeting before lunch. Everyone ready, enjoying each other, followed by a short walk down the street to la playa, where most had breakfast at Langostinos. Very reasonably priced egg dishes. Everyone had their own mission, and we split off in all directions. After meandering around town for a couple hours, I decided to enjoy a good sandwich at Dee's Coffee Shop, since I had not eaten. Turkey and avocado on whole-wheat sesame bread with salad, 50p, was very tasty. Home to ready for Bill's arrival from SFO via LA at 4pm. Hmm, fell asleep briefly to the pounding surf and humming fan. He arrived wound up but exhausted from three hours’ sleep and two crowded planes with a changeover, but happy to be back where he loves.

Barcelona Tapas at the corner of Matamoros and 31 de Octubre DT. Brenda took a party of 22 to share a dozen cold and hot tapas for 200p. Owner/chef Bill Carballo, from Chicago and trained in Spain, offers sizzling spicy shrimp, calamari, cured Spanish ham, chicken or beef brochettes, potato torta, creamy garlic potato salad, mushrooms with chorizo, layered vegetable torta, sopa de fríjol negro, house-made breads and ice creams. Lovely terrace on fourth floor, with wide Bahia and cityscape, or inside A/C third floor dining room. Fried caramel bananas are super! Lots of conversation, sharing, watching the sunset, then down to Morelos for a taxi back south of the river. Boana Torre Malibu is certainly a convenient spot to stay, right at the edge of the activity of Old Town and just up from la playa. Denis and Suzanne are the most helpful hosts around. Kudos!! Great place to stay, especially for singles who need a place to crash and wish to be right near the beach, night clubs, restaurants, shops, etc. Had a good, cool soak in the pool, which has never looked better since some retiling and painting! Then up to our sixth-floor balcony to breathe in the wide vista of the Bahia and shimmering waves. The autumn moon has been emitting nearly full rays in every direction, lighting the area like early morning time. Time to crash after another busy, eventful, enjoyable day in Paradise.

Wednesday, October 27

Up to another delightfully beautiful morning of quietude, beachcombers strolling slowly along the water's edge, sleepy boats, and pelicans starting to stir. Met a friend, and we drove up a ways to Northern Delights San Salvador, 171 HZ Colonia 5 de Diciembre, between Peru and Avenida Mexico, near Hotel Buenaventura. 222-4424 11am-8pm, closed Saturday. Owner/chef James Myers has established a fine restaurant/café serving such north-of-the-border faves as French onion soup or macaroni and cheese 25p/45p, meatloaf dinner with soup or salad, potato or mac and cheese, and veggie 70p, meatloaf sandwich 30p, burger or BLT 35p. Filet Mignon 105p [high season only]. Lasagna 70p. He says homemade "killer brownies" are a popular item at 15p, 25p with ice cream, as is all you can drink brewed iced tea, 15p. Home-baked cinnamon raisin bread served. A/C. Fearless board member Angela served the meal left-handed and filled us in on many of the latest upcoming PV events. I headed south to the Internet café and caught up a little, then back to BTM. After only a short breather, it was way up the hills to Casa Isabel in Alta Vista, where hostess extraordinaire Brenda hosted a large group of us for an afternoon fiesta. The panorama up there is spectacular, as are the facilities. One can kick up the heels and zone out for a week. After her special salsa fresca, tricolor chips, and cool drinks, I thought it would be time to head back down to the town, but out she comes with huge platters of food she had been preparing all day! Brochettes and salads from our fine lady chef and hostess. Yum! No one could agree on the exact time of the total lunar eclipse, so we watched from our birds’ eye view as it slowly turned black, leaving a huge circle of orange. Very fun time, with everyone comparing notes on their favorite meals so far and what places were still on the agenda and how high up the list. Just not enough time...another trip is being planned as the current one speeds along! A bunch of us headed slowly down the hills, on and off the cobblestone, to Basilio Badillo, really not that rough an experience. There we were right back in the pulsing heart of the area. One can feel day-by-day, night-by-night, that the town is awakening with new visitors with each passing hour. Before you know it, November will arrive, with the new season changing from a chug-a-lug to a boom.

Thursday, October 28

Early am… up, readied myself for another day of super activity. Kat had set up a boat trip with Alfredo and a few people, though four were, sadly, no-shows. We slowly meandered south, hugging the coastline and as we passed each village, and he told us the name and a little info about the spot. After the south side of town, we passed lovely Conchas Chinas, with casa after villa, all quite suitable for me to inhabit. Hint, hint. Then, the large village of Mismaloya and its famed hotel La Jolla and the remains of the sets of Night of the Iguana, a movie with Richard Burton and Ava Gardner which did much to put this once-sleepy community on the map for tourism. The presence of ladyfriend Elizabeth Taylor sure did not hurt the international news and photogs, let alone the publicity for the movie! On we glided, past Boca de Tomatlan, Colomitos, Las Animas [looks clean and peaceful, must stop another trip], Quimixto, Las Caletas, Majahuita, and just south of Punta La Boca, we turned in and carefully alit in Yelapa. Headed straight to a long table, shaded under palapas, and ordered refrescos, cold and needed! Sighed deeply and watched the beach activity, boats coming in and out, even a Corona cervesa delivery boat. Wow, there arrived the Yelapa Pie Lady of world fame, assisted onshore with trays of warm, fresh pies from her ovens. Slices were 20p and huge. I forced myself to sample for later...lemon [lime] meringue, pecan, banana, and coconut, supporting the local economy, of course. Later, we ordered simple lunch at Tino's Oasis, and mine was chicken enchiladas verde. No one felt like exerting the energy to hike up the hills to the waterfall, so we 'vegged' out, feet in sand, quietly chatting. Regretfully, we embarked and headed on the speedy return farther to sea, back to Los Muertos Pier. We agreed it was a wonderfully relaxing day and paid our fine captain and bid adios and gracias to Kat for arranging such a memorable trip south.

Friday, October 29 After many days jaunting around PV environs, I met TJ and Angela of the orchid/bromeliad tour fame, and off we sped, north to Marina Vallarta. This is a wonderful spot to view the boats and maritime activity, especially from a sidewalk café. We stopped at Victor's Place [Cafe Tacuba], Condominio Las Palmas Local 9, Marina Vallarta. 221-2808, 8am-11pm. Victor Fregoso, brother of Rueben of Pipi's, operates an expanded café with a great marina boat view. Tortilla soup 45p, chicken enchiladas verdes 75p, breaded chicken 70p, three spaghettis 85p, fish filet 75p, fish burger 65p. Outdoor patio seating and A/C inside during summer. Beer 10p all day. No CC. It is very casual and laid back. Dotted along the large, curving stretch, looking mainly west, are a myriad of shops, some related to sailing. Ended up bussing back to South Side and over to the café to check if the boards were in need of attention and to see if folks were seeking my location and availability. I have neglected to add that, before we headed south yesterday, I lugged my belongings over to La Palapa and would settle in for two weeks later in the day. Up to their gorgeous pool, sun, conversation [surprise!], and back down one flight. Another lousy sunset...actually, this one was filled with purple streaks and orange reflecting glows. After two seconds of coercing, I took my roomie over to Takos Panchos, and although quite hot inside and the two outdoor tables were occupied, we enjoyed immensely the pork tacos, chorizo quesadilla, and a pork al pastor torta on a superb bun, as good as it gets! This small spot is a must on everyone's list, especially when the peso account is running low. With tip it came to 50p each, and we were stuffed. This area of town is noticeably picking up, with small groups of tourists mingling with the locals, strolling along the popular streets and byways, looking at menus, shops, and nightclubs. Music blared everywhere and children shrieked as the older sibs chased the little ones. Pleasure personified, coupled with an easy way of life [take note]. Many couples and friends are content to merely sit and sip a drink or coffee and take it all in, sporting that well-known contented glaze and slight smile. Many of us are fully aware of that feeling, right? Settled on the balcony as usual and read or took notes. Big plans lay ahead, so sleep is a necessity. I just hate to sleep long here, as this life is speeding by, and I wish to partake of it before being called away.

Saturday, October 30

Wandered around OldTown/SouthSide, snapping pix representative of the unique feel of this area. I will burn a CD and post some of them online later. A short stop at the café and checking the necessities, followed by an early afternoon meeting at Cine Bahia, hooking up with four folks to head north to Bucerias along the Bahia past Nuevo Vallarta to a preview of a new colorful cafe called Ixta. [Lázaro Cárdenas 500, Bucerias, Nayarit. 298-2365, 5pm-10pm, closed Monday. New hideaway romantic Mexican patio setting serves creative dishes as Pescado Bandera [three sauces representing the flag] 85p,Tapado Tlaxcala, a stuffed beef filet with goat cheese, Gruyere, and poblano 120p, Fernando chicken breast with mozzarella and ricotta on cream basil 120p, mole poblano 80p, and fajitas 90p. Mexican folk music duet 'Los Frijoleros' vocals and guitar Friday high season, 7:30-9:30pm.

Fernando proudly served a fine buffet for taste testing. It was a lovely day, and once again, I breathed in the artsy feel of this small but booming village. Quite a music scene is developing there. After plentiful horchata, chiles rellenos, pollo mole, ribs, and Halloween tres leches cake, we drove around town, mainly along the area where small cafés and hotels line the beach.

Stopped at Cafe Magana, worth a return visit [Lázaro Cárdenas 40, Bucerias, Nayarit. 298-1091, www.cafemagana.com, 5pm-11pm, closed Thursday]. Brit owner Jeff Rafferty serves up meaty, well-spiced ribs 94p/154p and chicken 88p, both with coleslaw, combos 134p, plus offers eight sauces for sale, 48p for 50ml jar. Cheeseburger and fries 64p, onion-garlic rings 24p, dorado and chips Friday and Saturday 80p. Brightly painted café offers take-out. Occasional live band, call first. No CC. And Sandrina's [Lázaro Cárdenas 33, Bucerias, Nayarit. 298-0273, sandrinasmx@hotmail.com, www.sandrinas.com, 11:30am-10:30pm, closed Tuesday]. Owner Sandra [Sandrina, in Spanish] has created a unique, lovely garden getaway where you can enjoy her specialties. Food preparation has a Mediterranean/Greek accent, with wonderful creations as hearts of palm with Feta, garbanzo and chile mayo 80p, Sagonaki fried Greek cheese 65p, snapper filet and garlic shrimp with 2 pestos 175p, pizzas 75-90p, blue cheese mushroom burger on garlic toast 75p. You are treated to Sandrina's artistic endeavors, including original artwork on canvas and uniquely tiled walls and benches in a garden courtyard. Martini Monday, Sangria Saturday; Valiene says "Big and fat." Live music some evenings -- call first. Call about morning Internet breakfast special, plus jewelry by Stefan Wednesday and Sunday nights, in season.

I chatted with Sandy, finding out how her beautiful place was evolving. Back into town and too late for the party up the hills...I missed one! Could not find the eatery where they went, so munched on snacks at the condo, taking off a night for simple relaxation, reading, and watching beach activity, one of my fave pastimes.

Sunday, October 31

We rose well rested to hazy skies in the east, clearing to bold blue by 9:30am, when it was time for a refreshing dip and soak in the rooftop pool with the lousy 360-degree view. Such a life, but, hey, somebody's gotta do it! WE met more visitors from San Francisco-is that town empty? The newlyweds were immersed in this part of town after leaving the northern reaches of Quinta Real: shopping, swimming, hiking, dining, and having an all-around super time that will never be forgotten. Donning my Ray Ban sunglasses and casual garb in hopes of thwarting the paparazzi once this trip, we headed around town looking, stopping here and there, and watching any certain local activity new to our eyes. Some scary costumes and creepy masks are appearing already and those were the tourists who had had too happy a night prior! Pick-up trucks are laden with young kids screaming down the cobblestones. Church mass is over, the bells are silenced, and the newly found American fiesta begins. Once more, over to newly refurbished Mama Dolores Diner-this time for a good lunch. What we like about this spot is that it has outdoor café seating above the street, but is removed one block from the major bustle and noise of the area. (Olas Altas 534B, near Pulpito OT/SS., 228-4061, mamadolores4@hotmail.com, 8am to 10pm and closed Mondays.)

Part indoor restaurant and part elevated sidewalk street café since 1996, now owned by Grant Hunermund and Kieran Justason from Toronto, Canada, features simple Mexican and American fare, such as burgers with french fries, BLT, turkey club, chef salad , taco salad with choice of meat, meat loaf, fried chicken , mac and cheese, green salad with soup and bread, baby-back pork ribs, fajitas, and Mahi Mahi. For breakfast, there are hot cakes or French toast; eggs benedict;a meat lover's omelet with chorizo, bacon, and ham; and chicken fried steak with fried eggs. From October to March, there is a Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings from 5pm to 10pm. There are Soda Fountain Cocktails (floats, sodas, shakes) and Mama D´s Margarita Club-buy nine and the tenth is free. Saturday night meet Mama D. We both were in the mood for a breakfast item, and since the morning chef was still on duty, we were offered that menu also. Check out the steak and eggs or Benny with Canadian bacon . . . what else?!

Sunday, October 31, continued . . .

We took a great afternoon walk to burn off the meal and breathe in the ambiance and spirit of Old Town. Waves splashed in, boats swayed in the sleepy surf, and banana boats and parasail motorboats awaited eager customers. Children were everywhere. It seems so much of this place comes out for a family Sunday of togetherness. Hawkers wish to persuade you to part with pesos for homemade pies, muffins, jewelry, rugs, shirts, ornaments, temporary tattoos, green palm frond hats turning brown in the sun, tours to Yelapa or Mismaloya, fishing adventures, assorted nuts, helados, churras, ceramics, and fish on the stick. Close your eyes and drift off to wherever you wish, snap them open, and there is the playa, the bahia, the locals, and the peacefulness. After a long relaxing time in and around the rooftop pool, chat with people from various parts of the globe.

Halloween in Vallarta- It was not all that long ago that it was not celebrated here, but Americanization has struck. Two of our Internet superstars appeared in outlandish regalia, toting overflowing bags of American candy. Now I know I must at least bring a bag for every Halloween from now on. As the sun set in the west and our CyC crowd got larger and livelier, the kids slowly appeared with a parent or two, many in the most endearing costumes of orange, black, and scary, gruesome masks. Some of our own partiers were pretty wild looking, but after second look, I realized that is the way they always look. Oooooops! (Present company included.) One proud papa was especially touching as he carried his most beautiful daughter from person to person as she planted a kiss on each, even without a small candy gift. It was a blast, and many of us wished it would go on and on.

A couple of us headed to Brasil-no not the country. This spot is an all-you-can-possibly-eat churrascaria with high-quality meats accompanied by a slew of salads. It is great for carnivores. (Venustiano Carranza 210 OT/SS., 222-2909, www.brasilpirey.com pirey@prodigy.net.mx, 2pm to 12am.) Churrascaria features all-you-can-eat meats served by skewer-wielding meseros dressed á la Brazil with soccer jerseys, though the meats are local, including very tasty rib eye, sirloin, turkey, and chorizo. The meal includes assorted salads, rice balls, and fried bananas. A huge mango tree grows right in the center! Come very hungry and ask them to go slow (good luck!). There is air-conditioning for non-smoker’s comfort, plus smokers have their own open-air room. For men, it costs 150 pesos while women have to pay 120 pesos! It’s delicious, but fulfills a beef desire for quite a number of days.

Monday, November 1

Pre-election jitters hit this sleepy town of Puerto Vallarta-not a local one, but the one in the U.S. CNN blasts from corner bars and cyber cafés, eyes glued to every word emitting from the boob tube. One of the top reasons I left for Mexico was to be free of the constant political barrage. Sharply at 11am, we were whisked off to several condo properties for my roommate to inspect as a possible purchase. A first-time buyer is not a great position to be in, but he asked many pertinent questions and took it all in. One place stuck in his mind, especially for the price, although the 100 steps were a large deterrent for me. We rested at the fine local ¡Chile's! for a lunch of hamburgers and other sandwiches with super limonada, back in the cool jungle patio. (Pulpito 122 OT/SS., 223-0373. 11am to 6pm, closed Sundays and all summer.) Since 1995, Hank Muffett and Conrad Kostelecky from Portland, Oregon have found their pleasant niche one block up from Playa Los Muertos, serving lunch and early dinner. The spit-barbeque chicken (ready around 11:30am) over potato chunks is wonderful, as are the plump hamburgers (best in Vallarta?) and potato salad. There are side orders, French dip, and the chicken or chef's salad. Drinks include fresh iced tea, lemonade, sodas, and beer. All food can be taken out, but whole chickens must be ordered before noon for a 5pm pick-up. It has a jungle atmosphere in a courtyard of an old casa and airy rear seating among plants. It is lovely, with a large local clientele, and is warm, sunny, and tempered by soft, yet refreshing, bay breezes. We still needed time in the rather cool waters of our pool and conversed with an experienced property developer, who must have made quite a fortune, as now he and his wife split time here in their condo and the rest on a catamaran sailing the oceans and seas of the world. He was unpretentious, but filled with stories of remarkable travels, connecting with people of widely diverse backgrounds and cultures-utterly fascinating to me. Needing a long session in front of a computer to connect myself with a myriad of people from so many places worldwide, I sailed in my chair through countless emails and responded to the ones linked to this sojourn in paradise. Using this method, I did not subject myself to high winds and seas nor suffer from seasickness!

Off with Diana of Diana's Tours-she has been booking her Thursday Rainbow Cruise very well. It departs from the Los Muertos Pier. I hear fabulous reports about it. Check with her upon your arrival at 222-1510 or Lesbetravelling@hotmail.com. She also offers airport pickups and virgin tours, private tours, and concierge special services. A wonderful person for support, she will answer your questions from a local standpoint! We checked out some local property to see if any was worthy of renting and took a bunch of pix. It was very productive, and we met several courteous owners. Some places had spectacular views; my fave being a rooftop pool that went right to the western edge, so you felt like you were swimming into the horizon! I told the owners that is where I would spend the majority of my time. My roomie needed his taco/quesadilla/parilla fix at our new fave place, Takos Panchos, not a stand but an indoor/outdoor place with a hot grill and great cheap food. It was too hot tonight to eat there, so we ordered a variety of items for take-out and arranged platters on the balcony with the view of the South Side and the Bahia, with soft crashing waves and city noise. Each morsel invoked an, "aaaahhhh." He went out and I stayed at my laptop to work, cutting down on the pesos spent at cyber cafés.

Tuesday, November 2

We were up early and back to the one property my roomie really wants for 97,000 pesos. It is very nice, but I could not deal with the two choices-120 steps descending from the upper street or 72 steps up from the lower street. Bid time is closing in, and he says he has been tossing and turning for a couple nights. I broke off and did some browsing, walking, and work, and then ended up at Brother-in-law Taqueria (El Cuñado) Francisca Rodríguez near Olas Altas (9am to 11pm Sunday, 9am to 6pm Tuesday).

His son Jorge and his brothers run this taco stand as part of a family enterprise. They have Taco de Maiz (corn), Taco de Harina (flour), Quesadillas with cheese, and meat. Adobado (pork) is wonderful. All can be topped with guacamole and salsa. Aguas frescas is also here. There is limited sidewalk seating. It is a quick, clean, and delicious meal on the run.

I returned to La Palapa and awaited two amigos from New Jersey. They got in a little late due to rain in Dallas, but were thrilled to be back in paradise and the same unit as 1 and a half years ago, which they felt had a super design, location, and ambiance, arranged through www.doinitright.com. We lounged on the balcony after they freshened up and unpacked, sipping cool drinks and chatting about what has been going down in all our lives. Then it was up to the pool with the 360-degree city/bay view for a long dip, sunning and meeting fellow travelers, especially my newlyweds new pals from San Francisco (we had visited their top floor wrap-around condo, which was a 7-day wedding gift, and it was fantastic), who have been dining at each top site in town and reporting to me every morning exactly what they had in minute detail, the prices (wow!), and the quality. Tops has gone to Cafe de Artistes, which was followed by La Palapa surprisingly. They were too hyper for even a short siesta after a long and delayed trip on two planes, but wished too dine early partially due to the lack/quality of airline food, so all of us headed to Rodolfo Gomez 127 near Olas Altas (223-4676; www.mexonline.com/cafebohemio.htm; pvx2@prodigy.net.mx; open 5pm to 12am, but closed Sundays, some holidays, and most of September).

In an open square near Hotel San Marino, it is run by Chris May and Sol Rosenshein, from Palm Springs, California. It has a varied menu, all very reasonable and pleasant. There is alfresco dining, and you may have to wait for a table. It has become the area's hot spot. It has Mexican and American fare with a flair! Almost all entrees are at or below 100 pesos. Daily specials included the New York steak, Coconut shrimp with mango sauce, mussels, grilled fish, combo fajitas, chicken saute or mole poblana, meatloaf, and Cherry Cola barbeque ribs, which all include cup of soup du jour. There was a decadent brownie ice cream sundae, New York cheesecake, or flaming flan for 35 pesos. Many martini and margarita concoctions were from 49 to 59 pesos. Our hosts were congenial and happy to be reopened after their time off, as were the customer-packed tables. I went home for more talking, turning in fairly early.

Wednesday, November 3

We were all up very refreshed, even I who so thoughtfully agreed to sleep on the sofa. I was off for an uphill hike to a small house, which can be rented, in the lower Amapas area. It was quite nice-it had a little view, but was clean and two stories high. It would be great for 2 to 4 people. She also has a small studio for a 6-month rental. I thought long and hard of dropping everything and returning to her studio for 6 to 12 months! We all met up after various sojourns and walked to Restaurant Row, deciding upon a fond fave, Café de Olla (Basilio Badillo 168 OT/SS.; 223-1626; open 9am to 11pm, but closed Tuesdays and mid-September to mid-October). This family-run spot, for years, has seen their place expand, overhead fans added, and prices rise. It features large trees and whimsical artwork. It is a great stopover for simple authentic Mexican fare, like a barbeque or Mexican combo platter, octopus in garlic , steaks, carne asada, ribs , chiles rellenos, tacos or tostadas, best combo enchiladas, chicken , twice-baked potatoes from the outside grill, tasty tortilla soup, and guacamole. A meal includes good chips, salsa fresca, and nopales (cactus) salad. It is loud and busy in high season, with long lines that move quickly and are sociable! No reservations accepted. We strolled up and down and all around, peeking into shops; making small purchases; planning for returns later; and taking in the wonderful sights, sounds, and smells. There were five senses working on high level. It was the last day for one amigo, and he made his latest bid on the condo after nail-biting misery in the late afternoon. Now it is out of his hands. What will be will be. He can do any follow-ups by email and faxes from home.

We spent a lot of time up at our refreshing pool, mixing with people from all walks of life, many newbies to this territory and other longtime aficionados of Puerto Vallarta, as I am. Some are young parents with a couple kids while others were two catamaran yacht owners who had traversed the eastern Mediterranean after the Bordeaux, Barcelona, and Rome harbors. That couple will soon be off to Lebanon, Syria, Egypt, and Israel, port to port with a long line of yachts, and when moored, the owners will attend dinners, tours, and parties hosted by government heads in promotion of their tourism. It is a fascinating lifestyle, unlike mine, and even though I graciously volunteered, I was turned down! Imagine.

Wednesday, November 3…cont’d

By vote of 4 to 0, we headed to where one amigo had never ventured, a travesty, for his last night-Las Carmelitas, Rancho Camino a la Aguacatera (km 1.2 Arriba del Tunel Grande, 303-2104, 293-3112, 222-0845, info@lascarmelitas.com, www.lascarmelitas.com, open from 1pm to 11pm). High on the hills, 1,000 or more feet high and overlooking the town, it’s a place to go watch another lousy sunset in paradise. A 50 pesos (per person) entrance fee is deducted from your bill, imposed to keep out visitors who only come for the view. Owner Petro is a hands-on farmer. His fare is fairly ordinary, but with that astounding view, who cares? There are mesquite grilled meats, such as tasty arrachera, shrimp, garlic fish, and chicken breast, which includes grilled green onions, a cactus salad, salsa, guacamole and chips. Greet the waiter, Antonio, for me. Drive a van or take a taxi (80 pesos) and have the cabby come back at a prearranged time for pickup, or they will call one for you. Treat him to a cerveza or café and tip well. They do not venture up the dirt roads in the rainy season. Take a camera and a lover or friends. He expanded the cliff-side restaurant area. We found out the hard way that one is charged an additional 40 pesos for having Petro call a taxi, as the driver charges extra for the trip up and then the trip down, just be aware, but it was no big deal. It was a fitting finale for one person's trip through time in Puerto Vallarta. It was a spectacular evening gazing at the tiny twinkling city and bahia below, even though we missed the sunset due to misjudging the time of sunset after daylight savings started. If you arrive during daylight, climb the rickety steps to this vista point for Kodak-moment photos, which you will record nowhere higher in the area! If it gets a wee chilly at this elevation, fear not, serapes arrive to warm the shoulders of the delicate souls. A local Huichol plies some folk art handmade by her people at remarkable prices. It is hard to resist a stone mask for 40 pesos or an earthenware woman with pan or maiz for 50 pesos. Soon we are whisked below and back to the bustling, pulsing small city, rather a shock after such a blissful time in the clouds below the Sierra. Sigh . . .

Thursday, November 4

We had to arise early, drink our coffee, shower, and head out the door for an appt. at 9am, for one last visit and bid for the property in Amapas. Place is looking better and better, more questions answered. I hope he wins the battle, since even though he says he will be untouched, I imagine he will be quite disappointed. Several days may provide a solution, but this mission could drag on and on, as prospective buyers know quite well. All of us head out to Beach Café [The Green Chairs], Amapas 177 on Playa Los Muertos OT/SS. 222-1371, thebeachcafe@hotmail.com or askus@thebeachcafe.com, www.thebeachcafe.com, open 8am-9pm.

Beach food served in plastic, but what a super people-watching spot! Sushi quite good when available, like Philadelphia Maki 60p, ceviche -- fish 55p or shrimp 85p -- pollo nachos 50p, quesadillas 45-75p, Tex-Mex Beach Bowls full/half chicken 45/80p, steak 100/55p, shrimp 120/65p, stir-fryes full 90-130p, half 50-70p, burritos 40-60p [smoked marlin 50p!], enchiladas 75-95p. Live music 4-8pm some nights, call first. Was told after annual Latin Fever that the concerts should start in full after December 1st. Off he flew, leaving us in the sand and near the waves, sipping a limonada or te helado [iced tea]. Oh well, somebody's got to do it...

Weather, though quite sunny, with clear blue skies and some humidity, has been moderated by the steady, dependable brisas drifting in off the bahia. A couple blocks up from the beach, and you quickly find the temperatures higher and feel no breeze to cool your skin. Shopping and long walking are best done before 10am and after 2pm, the hours of the long-gone Mexican siesta. Work is conducted continually now to increase the income from the tourists when they are in town, namely in the season called high, partially making up for the poor business in value season. Have not been down to the sunset gatherings of Internet people for several days and suppose they are bearing up well without my presence. We will make the one manana, as Friday is the big day there...mark that the sunsets are now an hour earlier!

I had an urge for dinner at someplace I had never been, but had heard countless kudos about the food, especially the shrimp wiri. Mariscos Polo, Francisco I. Madero 376 between Insurgentes and Aguacate in Hotel Lina OT/SS. 12pm-10pm, Closed Tuesday.

Some of the area's best seafood, including ceviche on tostada 7p, burritos 53-73p, seafood fettuccine al chipotle Diablo 76p, enchiladas, fish filet 70-90p [special fish fantastic, octopus, seafood cazuela, or casserole] 63/73p, creamy flan 15p. Marianne says, "Shrimp wiri [145p, fresh coconut on peach puree] is excellent, but any seafood I have had there was good. They have a tostada with calamari [20p] that is a great appetizer." Colorful café. Wiri is tops, but the seafood fettuccine and the special fish were both fantastic...Hi to owner Polo, charming owner/host. A MUST!

Friday, November 5

Up early, went to the café and then to the pool, where the water remains cool from lower overnight temps but warms as the sun rays begin to hit it around 10am, too early now. Refreshing, as they say! Cool to me, but great for a little trotting around the neck-high water while you carry on the first several conversations of the new day...where did you eat, what did you have, was it any good, see any place to shop and buy absolute necessities for the home or amigos, any events planned for tonight I should be aware of? And that is just with total strangers, let alone later, when longtime amigos of over two days’ duration appear! Spread the joy and spirit. But had to rush off to a coffee engagement concerning PV websites, so we met at Café San Angel, Olas Altas 449 at Francisca Rodríguez OT/SS. 223-1273, 9am-1am.

Corner outdoor café for breakfast [chilaquiles or huevos rancheros], light lunch, dinner, or desserts. Café latte, iced frappuccino, fresh smoothies, luscious pies, and cakes 30-50p. Savory crêpes 50p. Sandwiches include smoked salmon and cream cheese on baguette 70p, prosciutto bruschetta baguette 70p.

We worked out some ideas and fully pictured a venture open to many areas of exploration and value to visitors and present and future residents. Puerto Vallarta has a multitude of areas virtually untouched by anyone, just awaiting that person with a vision, an idea, a means to fill a void, a way to enable people from all over the world to enjoy this magical spot on Earth even more. A little capital would not hurt either! Gosh, it is noon already, and the boys are hungry for sure. Back home, then out for a slow trek northward in the considerable heat, away from the brisas de bahia, we head past Our Lady of Guadalupe and up the stairs to Planeta Vegetariano Iturbide 270 near Hidalgo, up sidewalk steps north of Our Lady of Guadalupe Church DT.222-3073, www.planetavegetariano.com. Email hectoresponda@yahoo.com.mx. Breakfast: 8am-11:30am, Lunch/Dinner: 11:30am-10pm.

Hidden secret since 1995 [10 tables] which is worth the trek up the small hill near the Guadalupe Church. All-you-can-eat breakfast buffet for 45p, lunch/dinner buffet for 65p. From soup to dessert, including fresh beverages and many choices of fruit, side dishes, salads [cactus, mango], corn and black bean salad, entrees like soy enchiladas, eggplant, banana lasagna, falafel in tomato sauce, curry tempura, couscous, beets, tofu, and cakes. Nothing but plants, plant products, and some milk-based products used. Meal choices change daily and seasonally, but are plentiful. A special, filling meal in a wonderfully colorful café. No CC.

I felt the food was even better than last May, and my amigos’ first visit was pleasurable, true even for those people who feel they would dislike such cuisine. That falafel was my fave by far, then the corn and black bean mixture. Such happy, pleasant, and healthy people who operate this little tasty spot. Walked off some of the calories and ended our downtown excursion at the tourism office right across the street from the church, northwest corner. Great spot for one and all to stop in for brochures, cards, and magazines on anything local, all for free, and explained by extremely helpful English-fluent young people proud of their city and vast and varied culture. Both the film and music festivals are kicking in big-time, an art festival and then later, the annual gourmet festival...and that is only November! Several reasons right there why I love to be here when the month begins each year. Wandered past many tiendas providing items colorful and low-priced. The south direction bridge [we used to call it the New Bridge, but that name is fading] takes us past the location of my very first visit here in 1979, Molino de Agua, and then Pie in the Sky for afternoon refreshments if needed...especially their assorted ice creams [also back north is Once Upon a Time.] No need today, as we’re rather tired and warm, so we agree on a cool dip, then lie in the umbrella shade for a while as the sun lowers in the nearly winter sky. Aaah, another sunset of bright orange and a little red, though this has not been a trip marked by explosive, memorable sunsets which color your mind for long stretches. Mas tardes...

Friday, November 5, cont'd

The sunset referred to above was viewed from another get-together at CyC on Playa Los Muertos with a bunch of Internet buddies. Although I had wished to go to Oktoberfest at Cafe Frankfurt with several of the gang, I left it up to mi amigo to choose, as this was his birthday night dinner. He opted for The Red Cabbage, where those two had never been. What I always tell newbies is that this fine spot offers dishes from their kitchen based on old Mexican family recipes, not influenced by the Spanish. One does not see them on other local menus. Red Cabbage [El Repollo Rojo], Rivera del Río 204A OT/SS. 223-0411, redcabbage@pvnet.com.mx. Website: www.redcabbagecafe.com. Open 5:30pm-11pm, closed Sunday in the summer and September.

Old, Mexican family-run location [Hi to Lola and Cuco!], very small and intimate, and very down-home. Features old recipe dishes and indigenous sauces which are not offered often elsewhere. Ask about the cookbook. Special unique Mexican plate 145p, chiles en nogada or rellenos 80p, pork with garlic chile ancho sauce 85p, pork loin orange sauce 95p, shrimp Giovanni 175p, Puebla chicken mole 110p, cream of peanut soup 45p, tortilla soup 40p, and Panela cheese with chile de tenir [ancho] sauce 50p. Artwork immortalizes Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, plus Hollywood stars. Not a place that will soon be forgotten. Placemats have clever information. Reservations recommended. Non-smoking. No CC.

We enjoyed the fresh, cool air by walking slowly down the hill toward Olas Altas, passing local markets, shops, fine eateries, a few quiet bars, and even a new French/Mexican bakery called Charme. Needing to play some online catch-up, I went to my café, and soon two hours had flown by somehow, and I was back to the casa for a little news and then bed, as a big day lay ahead...are any bigger than the one before or the one upcoming?

Saturday, November 6

Yes, this is a big day -- one I have looked forward to for over two years. I have been north to Punta de Mita as far back as 1981, then more recently to Huancaxtle and Bucerias, three times [I adore this little village, and what a profusion of colorful restaurants and music hot spots there are -- rental and real estate prices are skyrocketing], but longer to venture farther up the state of Nayarit to Sayulita, a surfing center with good beaches, waves, and some beachfront cafes. First, I had an appointment with a new amigo for conversation, so we agreed upon a meeting at Dee's Coffee Company, Rodrigo Gomez 120 near Amapas OT/SS. 222-1197, deerindt@hotmail.com. Open 7am-10pm.

Deanne Rindt's small, popular café, serving warm breakfast bagels of ham, cheese, tomato, and egg, nicely toasted [Paco says excellent] 35p, turkey, ham, chicken salad, or health sandwich 50p, roast beef 55p. Fresh smoothies 25p, caramel latte 27p, 16 oz. latte 25p, frappes 28-35p. Try her iced Chai tea frappuccino. Wonderful espresso dark roast coffee 120p/kg. Soups coming soon. I then hiked quickly to another condo I have stayed in, straight out of Architectural Digest and in someone else’s budget plans, and met mi amiga for a venture north after a few local errands. On we head, past Nuevo Vallarta and right near Bucerias, veer right on the highway, not going on to Punta. Land becomes much less populated, with large stretches of jungle and scrubland, less billboards, and condos! Slowly, we creep into Sayulita, and on dirt roads narrow enough for one car but used for two-way traffic, we edge toward the Pacific Ocean. Reaching a parking spot one block from the ocean waves, we settle in and grab what we need. I head to a library/bookstore, then to a cyber café, which I am amazed was installed with high speed DSL last week, and in two months will have wireless abilities, all at prices quite a bit higher than back in PV. We agree to meet later, and I start my sandaling up and down the beach, reading menus, jotting info, and deciding where I wish to have my one meal here. Funny, I chose the fave spot of my friend, and we sat down later for a most enjoyable lunch right on the beach, covered by a combination of palapas and umbrellas. The choices were all seafood, which was fine by me. Where we dined was El Costeño, Delfin at la playa, Sayulita, Nayarit. Closed Thursday.

Funky, feet in the sand, but longtime spot slowly serves very fresh and flavorful seafood as mahi mahi filet, five styles 80p, whole huachinango, four styles 80p, shrimp, five styles 90p, marlin and fish tacos, three for 50p, shrimp salad 90p, Ruperto's shrimp pasta 90p, guacamole 40p, and salsa and chips. Highlight was a drop-by of a transplanted Argentinean couple who were widely grinning musicians with their own compositions and thrilled the onlookers with beautiful bouncy tunes before offering their CD for sale. They exuded a feel-good feeling, a high without any assistance, a love of life and family, and my friend related how she had been present during the final hour of this young lady's home birth, the air filled with the father's light guitar strumming and low humming of Spanish love songs as the baby began his life outside the womb. A beautiful way to enter this world, softly and with great, outpouring love. One of a kind, I do feel. Sadly realizing this day was slipping away, we had to forego the trip farther up the coast to San Pancho [for the next trip north], and I headed eventually by bus to the Sheraton, where we had to get out and transfer to a city bus to Olas Altas. I broke into deep shivers stepping into the cool breezes of the bay at night and raced home to bundle in a blanket. I stayed in bed, trying to warm, and drifted in and out of sleep for 17 hours, realizing I had developed a fever which finally broke into a pool of moisture, soaking the bed. I maneuvered around to dry spots, and every so often awoke and moved again, reaching for a dry pillow and sheet. Such a mystery, for I felt fine, so it was not the food or flu. I stayed in and bid adios to mi amigos for their dinner out. It was best for me to stay still and soak my foot and rest. I could not even type on my laptop, so I knew all was far from well in Paradise!

Sunday, November 7

Although the sun came up bright, with clear skies and lots of late morning heat, I still felt a slight chill and stayed close to the bed, bathroom, and water. Several concerned people called me offering assistance, but I was already in good hands. I tried to eat a little take-out chicken my roomies had picked up for our lunch, since I could not move far, and started thinking that the fever resulted from a sandal scrape and resulting blister, which had allowed germs into my blood stream and caused this infection that my body fought with heat, thus a fever. I had started placing a bacterial cream on the area, topped with fresh Band-Aids, and popped antibiotics which the farmacia prescribed for my ailment. Within two hours, the pain in my foot was 50% reduced, and I was able to walk around the condo not too painfully. Still, it was more sleep for me and some chatting with my friends. I actually started doing a bit of work when not in bed or on the balcony watching the beach scenes. Maybe I was going to survive! When I heard talk about blood poisoning and doctor trips, I willed myself to improve, and fast...and I did. Each couple of hours brought lessened pain, and though the sore looked quite bad, I kept it treated and covered when not in hot water in the tub. Hard to keep a restaurant reviewer in his casa for all that long, we walked a short block and a half back to one of our fun, favorite local spots, Mama Dolores Diner, Olas Altas 534B near Pulpito OT/SS. I had in mind the Sunday special, worth stopping by often for: Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings, 5pm-10pm, 110p, with choice of white or dark meat, good dressing, real mashed potatoes, crisp fresh veggies, and cranberry sauce. My friends opted for BBQ ribs and a whole huachinango [red snapper] with a great sauce, beautifully presented. Mama D was there, and all the staff made us feel at home and my illness very distant. We love this place and people. Tired, it was home for me, while my friends went out on the town for a long sojourn. I think I slept another 10 hours. Enough of this already! Places to go, people to see, things to do...

Monday, November 8

Once a year, all people of the world celebrate their favorite day, the super birthday of Gary. Cards, letters, flowers flow in...oh, well, a couple, and all but two of those were by email, but a huge, rich chocolate cake ordered by that mysterious, ultra-famous vixen of Florida is delivered to our casa by special private van, and Fidel informs the lucky superstar celebrity upstairs, lounging agelessly by the pool signing autographs and posing for all the town's paparazzi, that the specially made pastry awaits my tasting with a multitude of friends and employees downstairs. Wow, and this is only 9:30am!! Fans cannot be controlled, rainbow balloons swell in large clusters over the bay as far as the eye can see, the parasailers carry greeting signs, bi-planes soar overhead, spraying pure white smoke spelling out letters of well wishes, thousands of fireworks are readied for darkness, every top chef in town is preparing his/her special creations in hopes his entourage will grace their place and enable them to be pictured on the front page of every local paper and magazine...oh, it is time to awake and shower. Where was I? Yawn. At least the cake/van/Fidel part did really happen...really, honestly! Now, the question of the week -- what does one do after devouring a slab of ultra-rich triple chocolate cake, besides jog, and my ankle will definitely not allow that? I opted for a warm shower and a short walk to greet all the well-wishers. Even the maid and downstairs desk clerk received a large piece of the decadence. Still lacking a whole lot of ability to hike for blocks, shopping and stopping for a bite to eat for lunch, we aimed for nearby ¡Chile's! where mi amigos had not been yet. Always a treat, and even though this day was shaping to return to past weeks of high heat and humidity, we snared a table in the rear in the jungle, where light air currents cooled the shaded area. Pure joy. Chicken and burgers are the top faves here, and they do them well, indeed, at very good prices. Spit-BBQ chicken 59p [ready around 11:30am] over potato chunks is wonderful, as are the plump hamburgers 53p [best in Vallarta?] and potato salad. Mi amigos treated me in grand honor of my birthday. Gracias.

Recovery was in full force, and I was able to walk to my local A/C cyber café and catch up with emails from people writing to set up appointments for conversing, exchanging, discussing work in and around PV, trips, and other social events, in addition to trips to condos and villas to look around and become familiar with their locations, amenities, and desirability. I always have my organizer handy [my lifeblood] and my digital camera, with an extra set of batteries, as they do not last long between charges. I also found it worthwhile to include a small bottle of mineral water, a pen, and a small street map in my shoulder bag, which carried all these items snugly and securely. Look for the guy with the black and orange tote! Being completely organized prevents losing valuable items or leaving them in the casa, where they will do no good. Roomies were off buying up the town, and I meandered the cobblestone streets, passing small cafés and taco stands, some bustling, others empty, jotting down pertinent information for use later and checking the small tiendas, offering everything from cheap souvenirs to t-shirts to dressy clothes to fine ceramics.

Hmmm, maybe a little mango ice cream has my name on it? Quality shops for cold helados in SouthSide are Pie in the Sky [from Bucerias], Once Upon a Time, and Dolphy. Time to head home and sit, gazing from the balcony as the bay beckons me with its hypnotic waves. The sun is slowly dipping lower in the western horizon earlier than a few weeks ago, aided by the loss of daylight time. We learned that the hard way when we planned our Las Carmelitas sunset excursion! Enjoyed two phone calls from well-wishers and ended up lounging on the sofa, watching the news for a bit. In come the amigos, and time to decide a difficult daily dilemma -- where are we having dinner tonight? Yes, no, maybe, vote, go. Sorry, it still had to be a taxi for means of arrival, and off we sped to a transplanted historical landmark only visitors or residents from the '50s to mid-'80s would be aware of:
Tony's Please, Lázaro Cárdenas 446 near Jacarandas OT/SS. 5:30-11pm, high season 4-11pm, closed Sunday.

Tony's son serves up a well-priced, eclectic menu of Andalusa [garbanzo] soup 30p, garlic egg soup 26p, frogs' legs 98p, Mexican tenderloin tips 72p, Mexican plate 72p, chicken crêpes 70p, chicken livers 72p, chicken tetrazzine 88p, fish filet white wine shrimp cream sauce 90p, and fish filet Veracruzana 88p. Father owned the 1960s-80s original on Encino near Río Cuale, which was a huge local favorite, complete with pool table, rowdy customers, and long lines. Menu here remains almost identical, with same cooks.

Remarkably, the food swills in my mouth, taking me back, waaaaay back, to when our group, some gone now, ate nearly every night at father Tony's spot right by the Río Cuale years ago, where Liz and Dick and the who's who of Hollywood dined amid the drunks and revelers. We used to sit around a busy pool table and wait for nephew Alex to inform us our table was ready. He always knew what each diner would be drinking, and a tray of cold ones appeared without even being asked. I had worked my way through the extensive, eclectic menu and loved every dish I had. The old story goes two ways, as to how the restaurant got its name: 1] A painter of the wall next to the door did not know how to spell 'place' so it came out Tony's Please; 2] The name stuck because everyone would hail a taxi and tell the driver, 'Tony's, please.' Maybe we will never know if either is true, or neither!

He made what many of us considered a huge blunder by abandoning this location for a new, huge site up on the highway, with fine views under an enormous palapa. No one ventured that far, and he slowly lost money, except for the few loyal guests like us and the large number of beer-drinking pool players [he now had four tables]. Then he disappeared with his son, to later surface at this location with the same employees and menu. Good to be 'sort of' home again, to that same wonderful and reasonable food of many nationalities. Feeling really good and pleasantly full, I agreed to walk down to the main drag, passing Celia's place of pozole [still not been there] and an herb tienda where I will return to purchase dried hibiscus flowers for making the red Jamaica refresher back home [high in vitamin C].

Tuesday, November 9

What? Two full days left. Just cannot be true -- really? But when I think back to the first pages of this record of my activities, some events seem so distant, like I really only met that person three weeks ago, and now we are seeing each other so often and warmly. Time flies, for sure, but what a lot has come down, and so much progress has been made. I thought that my May trip with meeting condo/villa/shop and restaurant owners and managers, bopping from place to place, was really great, and now this even longer trip has led me on a far different course, one of meeting many people from all walks of life, quite a few from Internet connections, and the common thread has been the friendliness and reality of these fine people. I so hope some of these friendships will continue and grow in the future. OK, off my soapbox. Up very early, tired of sleeping and half asleep thinking about all the tasks I wish and need to accomplish soon, went to a café, and then headed up to the sunny rooftop pool and met my roomies, one in the sun [the blood] and the blonde in the shade reading! Staying out of the water so as not to cool my foot, I sat at the pool's edge and talked with a young couple with two kids, who were in town for an expensive wedding at a villa in Conchas Chinas. Vows on the beach at sunset with champagne toasts and buffet dinner spread out with the wide city and bay view below. The rehearsal dinner was held at the prestigious Cafe de Artistes the night before, for a pretty penny, I am certain. Oddly, I had sat on our balcony looking south and spotted a large villa bathed in amber lights, top to bottom, and now I wonder if that was the place, which I had never seen lit like that prior.

Off to a coffee appointment with a lady who runs a sailing company. Great venture filling a void in PV's activities. We met at Dee's Coffee Company, and I had to try her iced chai tea frappuccino -- what a cool, refreshing dream. We caught up on past and current events and had a delightful time discussing her ideas and hopes. We all wish her best of luck. Had to run after our drinks were consumed and meet for lunch at the Beach Café [The Green Chairs], Amapas 177 on Playa Los Muertos OT/SS. We sat upstairs in the newly painted expanse overlooking the palapas and beach activities, plus that beautiful bay and city view. Great for when you do not wish sand between your toes but do not want to miss much of the happenings. We had a fine, fresh mahi mahi burger with tartar sauce, made to order, and good fries. Talked a long time with the manager, and he informed us that their musical program would restart soon, with performances daily from 4-8pm, with styles ranging from pop to Latin to R&B to rock to reggae, etc. Sounds like a great way to spend that 'empty' time between lunch and going out. Forget the siesta. Bid adios as my friends went off shopping on their last day in Paradise this trip, and I headed back to my laptop and rest in the shade. I did manage to stroll to several spots, checking menus and prices. Took my camera out later for a few needed shots of the area for use on websites. I burned a CD at my cyber café for 35p and emptied the memory card to zero. Now I have plenty of space for tomorrow's needed pictures, if I connect with my driver, which I should, with instructions of our final missions.

My roomies left last night, so no taco stand for us. We went through the various choices, and they opted to go somewhere that they had never visited, good idea. Off we walked on Restaurant Row to Roberto's Puerto Nuevo (Basilio Badillo 283 OT/SS.,222-6210, 222-4959, www.robertosptonuevo.com, open noon to 11:30pm). Since 1988, seafood is all that you find here, and he serves it many ways, all Pacific and fresh. Creative dishes include smoked marlin, seafood-stuffed chilies, gazpacho soup, fried calamari, mussels, Mahi Mahi (Dorado) for four, fish filet mignon with bacon, whole huachinango (red snapper), garlic butter fresh catch, shrimp diablo, huge seafood platter, octopus, spaghetti marinara 138p, seafood casserole 132p, chicken au vin, and rib eye. The restaurant is very popular-it’s ranked high, a local favorite, and right on Restaurant Row. You may want to opt for the second floor air-conditioned room.

I have felt for a long time that he serves up some of the freshest seafood and most creative dishes. We were not disappointed-not one single dish being below wonderful. I love the use of banana leaves for steaming filets to keep them very moist and flavorful and the idea of wrapping my Mahi Mahi in a strip of bacon before grilling it, adding a wonderful unexpected extra flavor. There were very tasty soups too, though the mussels we wished to share were unavailable. Since the whole fish was smaller than usual, he sent out two fish with the flesh flaking off, with a wonderful crusty skin imparting terrific pleasure. They were winners all around and a great send off from a beautiful visit for mi amigos. It was time to head home early since they had a lot to prepare and pack before a very early departure tomorrow.

Last day for a little while

Wednesday, November 10

Awakened by two amigos saying adios, hasta la vista, until next time, at 6:20am as they prepped for the sad, slow ride to the aeropuerto and home, of sorts. Abandoned, I sure could not go back to sleep, so after laying silent and mulling the day's upcoming events, I arose and hit the laptop to do as much work as possible offline before going to the cyber café, where I have to pay. Next time, I really need Internet access in my casa. Realizing that this is my last full day, I wished to hike around town south of Río Cuale before the sun sent hot rays beating on the streets, where no bay breezes penetrated. There were five taco stands I needed to locate, check menus, and write down info, plus have lunch at one before that mission could be recorded as done, at least for the time being, as there are many more I did not have written down and still others for which I had no descriptions or locations. Before leaving the casa and pool, I knew which stand I just had to eat at due to very tempting descriptions from two amigas. So, I organized them on a map and wrote which I would head to first, second, and third, eliminating as much backtracking as possible, thus ending at the one where I would sample lunch. I imagine I create quite stir while jotting notes at stands where the employees and customers stare and wonder who is this gringo, loco or what? I shrug it off with smile and say 'adios'. On I trudge, crossing streets, many times at risk of bodily injury, always looking both ways, since drivers here love to back up on one-way streets. Where are the transit cops we have seen all over the place this trip -- stopping another tourist for cash? Watch the cobblestones and small ruts carefully, so as not to twist an ankle, or worse! I meander the corners at will, sensing that this town is mine too, not referring to the map all that much. Familiar shops and signs are spotted everywhere. Have I not walked past that place a dozen times in the past wonderful three weeks? Oh, that store is showing signs of life, so maybe the owners are going to open after all. Gave it up for dead two weeks ago.

There it is; the hunger pains will soon be abated: Marisma's Fish Taco I and II Naranjo 320 between Basilio Badillo and Venustiano Carranza OT/SS; second at Marina Vallarta Condominios Marina del Rey behind Neptuno Plaza. 222-1395. 9am-5pm, closed Monday.

Sherry says this place served by far the best 10p fish taco she ever had, shrimp taco 12p, both battered and deep-fried. Also smoked marlin quesadilla 18p, ceviche tostada 7p, and agua fresca as guava 6p. Served with five homemade salsas, like avocado cilantro, fresca, and soy with onion. Clean, bar seating at the cart, and chairs at table under a magnificent Ficus tree. Brenda recommends this stand, very popular with locals and visitors. This is the first taco stand I have seen where they use a deep fat fryer, so that in and of itself interested me. And was it good, shrimp and fish. Unusual but superb, and their sauces were marvelous, especially the avocado/cilantro creamy light sauce. One young lady is learning English and doing quite well, so it was fun conversing with her, each of us teaching a few words or phrases of the other's native tongue. A real cutie, too. I loved how she asked me a couple times if I liked the comida. Of course, the answer was a loud, resounding "si" en español. After a stop at a beautiful condo apartment, which the owners wish to rent weekly, I headed on down the hill to Olas Altas flat land and was right back in the heartbeat of Old Town, where I love, live, and breathe...and hate to depart. Big night ahead, so back to the sofa and some news and reading to rest my feet and back. Cool breezes bathed me as I relaxed and thought back over the past 22 days. Waves of memories crossed my conscience, many of which I would never forget, as they were that impressive and pleasant. New and old amigos to share the sunlight with on days to follow, filled with laughter and craziness. I can envision it all now in the near distance. Keeps your spirit invigorated though those dark and dismal days which never seem to end.

Before I know it, the clock marks 7:30pm, and I am not even presentable for my public. Hurriedly, I don a bright, tropical parrot shirt and blue shorts, and off I go to Restaurant Row to the old 180 [before that Chef Roger] Boca Bento, Basilio Badillo 180 OT/SS. 222-9108, www.bocabento.com. Hours unannounced.

New owner remodeled and opened Latina Asiatica fusion hot spot November 11, 2004. Small, tapas-style plates combining the two styles of cooking are presented in an Asian set of rooms, highlighted by a golden Buddha statue, pebbles, candles, and fabricated palapa roof. Stylish spot needs reports of the food items. Met with the new owners and some other amigos, but then the volume of people increased such that it was time for me to exit, and off I went to type a little before the next and final big event of this trip.

The N. O. [New Orleans] Jazz concert was held on the beach between La Palapa and El Dorado, in front of the whale sculpture, on 11/10/04, part of the ongoing film festival. It was preceded by a free concert on the malecon by Juan Gabriel, one of Mexico's top pop male artists. I did not attend that one, due to fears of enormous crowds [which were accurate]. The beach concert was free, with bamboo and wood chairs supplied by El Dorado and plastic ones by La Palapa in a half-moon facing east. The stage was erected in two levels, with concert speakers flanking in various areas. Waiters served cool drinks unobtrusively, though the temperature was most pleasant, with light breezes off the bay. The audience was most receptive, but sadly, there was room for more goers. El Dorado set up a beach bar table with premixed margaritas behind long tables under palapas for diners and listeners. Several movers and shakers were there, warmly greeted by owner Luis Wulff and his mother Nelly Barquette.

Don Harris from New Orleans, sweating profusely and removing his tie pronto, led his four-piece band in a beginning light jazz number which went on for almost 15 minutes, highlighting each musician, whom he softly introduced. He played sax, and there were two guitarists, one keyboard master, and a percussionist/drummer. The crowd appeared to love each one in their own way, with hearty applause after each special solo. Don would sing and hum at times, and even jumped into playing keyboard a couple times before it was covered with Marti Gras plumes. A fun time was had when he bounced onto the drums with hard rat-a-tats, with the crowd going wild. His music really did swing.

Highlights I wrote down were My Cheri Amour [30-year-old Stevie Wonder song], Feel Like Making Love [Roberta Flack from the '70s], and a long, wild, driving medley of Mardi Gras songs made popular, he said, by the locals, whom he termed 'Indians'. I did wonder if they were the Cajuns, known for very fine musical numbers and bands, for those of us who have visited this fabulous American city. He then broke for a 15-minute break, but after a while, I headed upstairs, since I had much to do before turning in for the night before I left the next day, sadly, but happy knowing I will be back and enjoy more fine musical events. I could hear more jazz music as I packed and organized.

Look for good news coming from the Green Chairs, with live music, according to their manager, starting in December and continuing from 4-8pm until April!

Thursday, November 11

Now, wait a minute . . . no one told me that this visit had to end. Unfair! Sue, sue, sue. I cannot leave; I have waaaaay tooooo much more that must be done.

Please send cash and new airline ticket, por favor. Alms for the sad one? No, I guess not. Stop, I have done extremely well, especially in the face of limited ability to walk for a few days. I am content, satisfied, and thrilled. Now, I want to read and hear from all of you as to your experiences. Okay, not as long and detailed as mine, but muchas gracias for bearing with me! It was an enormously eventful and unforgettable sojourn, far from a vacation, with lots of work but tons of fun and laughter and gaping in awe at the beauty of some casas and villas and the ever-amazing vistas all around the Bahia de Banderas, north, center, and south!

Do not be content to sit and stare on la playa (the beach). This area has so much to offer. Rent a vehicle and drive, and visit the small local villages where time remains slow and life is simple yet rich. I learned so much from experiencing a wide range of taco stands, delving into the way of life for so many people around me, smelling, tasting, and listening to day-to-day conversations.

I have no time or will to sleep, so I arose before 7:30am and planned all that I wished to do during my last hours here in this beautiful land. I used up nearly all of my last membership card at the cyber café and bid adios until next time and decided it best eat a little something since airline food fails us inevitably and the fridge in San Francisco is devoid of everything but some crisp apples. I had spotted earlier a taco stand I ate at years ago, one I thought had disappeared for a while and now was back, with the same name and in the same location. Was it me or déjà vu? So, I felt it had my name on it-Peter and Carmen's Tacos (Manuel Dieguez at Olas Altas near the beach OT/SS, 322/289-3941, and open 9am-11pm (closed Sundays).

Peter is deceased, Carmen has moved, but sons Alex and Juan run this 20-year-old stand that offers many local favorites at great prices, all served with four fine salsas. They have adobada; carne asada; chorizo; pollo; birria; tortas of ham, cheese, pork, chicken or beef; hamburgers; and hot dogs. There are only four chairs. I had a fine torta since the hamburgers were not ready yet. I went back to pack some more, squeeze, and push-must be all those bags of hibiscus flowers, the kilo of coffee, and that book on old Vallarta, but not the piles of magazines and brochures-no! Sigh, I finally got it zipped up; it was like trying to get the zipper up the jeans after a splurge. Now was my time to myself, to sit and gaze, ponder, meditate, and space out on the balcony, watching wave after wave crash onto the beach, kids screaming and playing, vendors trying to make some pesos, and sun rays glittering on the water. Sounds like my first day here.

Words from Love Affair come to my mind: "What is it about this place? Makes you want to whisper . . . so peaceful . . . like another world. Never seen such vivid colors. Even the green seems greener." And off goes the jet headed north to another land, another people, but part of me, my soul, my spirit will always reside in my beloved Puerto Vallarta forever.

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