Bristol-End of the Line for Mr. Brunel

Bristol is a modern, vibrant city that has so much to offer the visitor with its parks, buildings, churches, cathedral, and statues, plus of course the various legacies of Victorian engineering prowess left for us by Isambard Kindom Brunel.

Bristol was "his" city, and today that city is rightly proud of how he pushed out the boundaries and left for us all such iconic constructions including The Clifton Suspension Bridge, The Great Western Railway, and the building of what were then the world's mightiest ships, such as The SS Great Britain.

Stroll through the lovely open parks, refuges from the bustle of the city, and see the wonderful Bristol Zoo, with one of the best collections of animals in the U.K.

Go back in time and see the Old City, with its cobbled streets once full of row upon row of warehouses for the vast array of goods shipped through the docks, but now reborn as luxury apartments, coffee shops, and restaurants. Visit the ancient inner harbour, where the Cabots sailed for America in 1497 and from where the Slave Trade flourished in the 18th century

The old docks themselves have undergone a stunning transformation, and the decaying wharves, many having lain idle for decades, are now receiving massive facelifts with the old sheds becoming art galleries and visitor centres.

Bristol has a vibrant music scene, boasting several theatres, including the Old Vic and the Hippodrome.

Enjoy the sunshine on College Green in the presence of the Cathedral and the Council House, along with hundreds of students who populate the city's two universities and use the Green as their lunch venue.

Finally, visit Clifton, the city's bohemian quarter, a Victorian wonderland with rows of three or four storey houses, all with balconies, perched on narrow, winding, hilly roads and huddled up to nightclubs, bars, restaurants, and art galleries.

Quick Tips:

As with all large cities, there are areas where you will need to be wary, but you will be free to walk around without being hassled.

You would really need to set aside a couple of days to see the major sites, plus a bit more to see the zoo and main parks

Best Way To Get Around:

Bristol is a large city, so a car is really needed to explore; although, the local bus services are excellent and run to all points within the city, plus have services to Bath and many of the smaller outlying towns and villages.

The Bristol-to-Bath cycle way follows the route of part of the old Midland Railway line, which snakes through the city, offering an alternative way to get around without the burden of the sometimes very hectic traffic.

Walking is certainly my favourite way within the city centre with so much to see in a relatively compact area, including the old docks, The Watershed, the Cathedral, Welsh Back, and the friendly bustle of College Green and Park Street.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel based his Great Western Engineering Co. in Bristol, with projects as diverse as ship-building to civil engineering. One of his finest achievements was the launching in 1843 of the SS (Steam Ship) Great Britain, the world's first iron-hulled, screw-driven, ocean-going passenger liner, the largest moving object of her time.

Her maiden voyage in 1845 was to New York, but so "worried" were people that this journey couldn't be made, that only 100 or so passengers braved the initial trip.

Even today, the dimensions and capacities of this vessel are impressive, and when you see her at the dry dock in Bristol at close quarters, you can understand how in awe of her size the Victorians were. Some vital statistics are: length- 322 feet; width- 50 feet, 6 inches; total weight 3,500 tons; 16-foot draught; and four engines combining to produce 1,000 horsepower. Cargo capacity is 1,200 tons and coal-carrying capacity for the boilers is 1,000 tons, of which roughly 50 tons would be consumed each day.

The SS Great Britain had four passenger decks with a total of 252 berths. The crews' quarters were situated beneath the forecastle, along with the sails used as an additional source of power. She has six masts, each towering 74 feet above the top deck, on to which the 1,700 square yards of canvas could be hoisted along with huge funnels to serve the three boilers, heated by 24 fires, which could hold a combined weight of 200 tons of water.

The Great Britain served her country well over the years being involved in the Crimean War as a troopship in 1855 and in India in 1857. However, misfortune overtook her when, on a trip to the south Atlantic around the turn of the century, she was badly damaged by a severe storm and put into Port Stanley in the Falklands for repairs. These repairs were, unfortunately, never carried out, probably due to the remoteness of her location, and sadly, a few years later, she was permanently beached at Sparrow Cove, just down the coast from Stanley.

Here she remained gradually decaying until, in 1970, in terrible condition, she was towed back home to Bristol and floated up the Avon Gorge on her own keel to the dry dock where she now rests, undergoing sympathetic restoration at the hands of master craftsmen for whom she is the love of their lives.

In 1833, Isambard Kingdom Brunel was appointed as engineer to oversee the laying of a railway from London to Bristol. Brunel himself conducted the surveying, which was a particularly level run over the 115 miles or so between these two great ports.

The explosion in railway construction had tended to conform to the standard gauge of four feet, eight and one half inches, but Brunel opted for his "broad gauge" of seven feet and one half inch. This, he reckoned, meant not only hitherto unknown standards of passenger comfort, but also consumed less fuel.

The first part of the line opened to passengers in 1838 between London and Maidenhead, with the remaining sections opened for use in 1841. There were some very serious natural obstacles to overcome once the line was clear of Reading, with the relief of the landscape being more undulating than that of the home counties. The biggest challenge of all was Box Hill, too high to climb over and too wide to go round -- so Brunel went through instead, and excavated what was then the longest rail tunnel in the world, at slightly over three kilometres (two miles). Such was the scale of the challenge, and such was the hardness of the rock, that Brunel reputedly used a ton of gunpowder per day for the blasting operation.

The tunnel took over two years to construct, but once finished, the line was complete. To celebrate such a feat, Brunel oversaw the construction of two great terminals at either end of the line: one at Paddington, the other at Bristol Temple Meads. The Bristol station occupied a site slightly removed from the current station, as in those days, it was "the end of the line". Modern Temple Meads now carries passengers not just to London, but to the Midlands, South Wales, and the South Coast.

The old broad gauge station still sits alongside the new and features an ornate interior and high, vaulted glass roof, which was to become standard design for all of Brunel's creations. Unfortunately, although a grade-one-listed building, it is being used predominantly as a car park, which doesn't really give the place a proper ambience, but to see the wide spaces where once were platforms and the magnificent facades, you can almost imagine the Victorian businessmen scurrying to catch the train.

As the River Avon flows through Bristol on it's way to the Bristol Channel, it passes between the towering Avon Gorge, sheer, rocky escarpments with no place upon which to build a crossing point.

Thus, in 1829, a competition was set to choose a design for a bridge to effect that crossing, and was presided over by Thomas Telford, constructor of The Menai Straits Bridge in North Wales.

All the initial proposals were rejected, including four separate submissions from Brunel. Brunel's plans included spans of up to 900 feet, which Telford thought to be unsafe and impossible (his Welsh bridge having a span of just 580 feet and believing 600 feet to be the safe and practical limit).

Telford then considered his own design incorporating three spans, but this meant building massive stone supports up from the river bed, which was far too costly and totally impractical, so a second competition was set in 1830, which Brunel won and was duly appointed engineer-in-charge.

This new design featured a single span of 630 feet, the deck being 240 feet above the high water mark of the tidal river below. To effect this design, the south side of the bridge was supported by massive stone abutments, reducing the required span by many feet. The construction was, however, plagued with problems, not least of all a shortage of funding and the bridge was not finally completed until 1864, 33 years after it's start. Brunel never lived to see his beautiful masterpiece; he died in 1859 five years before it's completion, a sad irony indeed.

Today, the bridge is open to light traffic and pedestrians and affords marvellous views along the gorge in either direction. It also has a somewhat macabre reputation as "the most used suicide jump in the UK", with many people choosing to leap to their deaths. Recent programmes have seen the unfortunate introduction of higher railings and side nets to catch the jumpers, which has detracted from the appearance of this wonderful piece of engineering.

This has reputedly been a place of worship since Saint Augustine preached on this site in 603 AD and when, first constructed as an abbey in 1140, it was dedicated to him. Today, the cathedral is dedicated to "The Holy and Undivided Trinity."

The Abbey was founded by Robert Fitzharding, but was dissolved by Henry VIII and then elevated to the status of cathedral in 1542. The only remaining Norman feature is the Chapter House, built between 1150 and 1170. The Lady Chapel dates from 1225 and is in fine condition.

It is known as a "Hall Church," featuring full height aisles, of which it is one of the earliest examples. The Norman nave was demolished in the 16th century, and the site was left bare until the current nave was added in 1868.

It sits at the back of College Green in a lovely setting, with wide expanses of grass before it and the equally impressive, but far more modern, Council House across the way. It is a good place for a picnic on a fine day, after which the serious shopper can sample the retail delights of Park Street, which travels from the Green and up a steep, wide hill towards Clifton.

St Mary Redcliffe is a stunning beautifully preserved church built in the Gothic style in the 14th century. It occupies a lofty position in the heart of the old city, and for some, is considered to be the chief place of worship in Bristol, over and above the cathedral.

The spire was added in the 19th century and rises 285 feet above the street. Queen Elizabeth the First visited Bristol and announced that it was "the fairest, goodliest and most famous parish church in the kingdom".

It is in every way comparable in size to a cathedral, with its 240-foot nave, open parapets, and massive flying buttresses.

Although Bristol was extensively bombed during World War Two, the church sustained little or no damage. It did however come perilously close on Good Friday, April 12th, 1941, when a massive bomb exploded in nearby Cumberland Road. Such was the force of the explosion that a huge length of iron tramway was torn up and projected through the air for over 300 yards, coming to rest embedded in the church grounds. That same iron track is still there today, 6 feet showing above ground and several feet buried beneath, with a simple plaque explaining its existence.

Bristol Docks once rang to the shouts of hundreds of stevedores as they unloaded cargoes from all round the world. Now that Avonmouth has taken most of that business, the old docks have undergone a transformation process enabling the visitor not only to enjoy the new galleries, theatres, museums, restaurants, and visitor centres, but also to get a glimpse of what life down here on the docks might have been like.

With St. Mary Redcliffe to your right, turn left at the roundabout and walk across Redcliffe Bridge. At the next roundabout, turn right into Welsh Back, a cobbled street full of old warehouses and granaries.

If you take a left at the roundabout instead into The Grove, you cross the swing bridge in Princes Street with Merchants Quay to your left and the Arnolfini Gallery to the right. This bridge crosses the Cumberland Basin, where the river was re-routed from many years ago due it's huge tidal range of more than 40 feet to allow ships in at any time rather than the inconvenience of waiting for the tide. Thus, the river now flows between Cumberland Road and Coronation Road, whereas its original course is now tide free and gave rise to the wharves at Hotwells and Canon's Marsh

Opposite is a large sign indicating the route to follow along Princes Wharf, where you will find the four remaining electric cranes that used to unload the ships, plus several small ships including the world's oldest tug.

Follow on for a few hundred yards and you will arrive at the Great Western Shipyard, where the SS Great Britain is now preserved in dry dock. Entrance fee here is £6.25 for adults, £3.75 for kids, but that gives you unlimited access to the ship.

If you return the way you came and cross the bridge again with the Arnolfini on your left, continue straight along into Prince Street, then turn left into Broad Quay, then left again into Anchor Road, and then finally left once more into Canon's Road. This will take you down to the old Canon's Marsh area of docks that dealt specifically with tobacco, but is now revitalised with corporate buildings and a stunning visitor centre.

Allow yourself about 4 hours to see all of this, and an additional 2 hours if you plan to visit the Great Britain.

Clifton is very much the Bohemian quarter of the city and is almost an oasis, set aside from the rest of the bustle and traffic that tends to engulf the city centre. Clifton extends from the top of Whiteladies Road across Clifton Downs, then drops sharply down towards Hotwells Road.

The area is residential, primarily with row upon row of well-preserved Victorian houses huddled together in narrow, steep streets. But once you begin to investigate the alleyways and mews, you will find a thriving night scene of clubs, pubs, and bars, plus a huge array of upmarket galleries, gift shops, restaurants, and tea rooms, all catering to the well-heeled visitor.

Clifton is, of course, associated with its bridge, but there is a lot more to see, as well. Clifton Downs are a beautifully managed park land area, providing tranquility and peace, where you can walk your dog or even ride out on a horse for the day. Bristol Zoo is also situated on the Downs, and although I've not visited personally for a few years, it does have a wonderful record of conservation and an ongoing captive breeding programme for endangered species. The zoo is surrounded by Victorian houses, and it seems quite surreal to be there in the centre of such a residential area.

The best way to enjoy Clifton is to walk. You'll see everything in a few hours, but it is the atmosphere there, almost "a village within a city", that never fails to impress the visitor.

Music clubs abound, and you can take in jazz, blues, folk, or whatever your penchant is for the price of a beer or coffee, although that price tends to be rather high here. But the pubs are quaint, the locals friendly, and the ambience great, so treat yourself to a tour around, should you ever come to Bristol.

When the old Midland Railway closed its line from Bristol to Bath, the track was ripped up and the land lay dormant for many years. A few years ago, Cyclebag, a Bristol-based cycle campaign group, initiated the project with the idea of turning it into a cycleway to join the two cities, and of course, as it follows the course of the old railway, the route is almost flat. The cycleway was constructed over several years from 1979 to 1986, bearing in mind that many sections were totally overgrown and required extensive clearing.

Starting at the Bristol end, you enter the cycleway in St Phillips Road, just northeast of Temple Meads station. It is clearly signposted and easy to locate. For the first few miles, the cycleway winds through the suburbs of the city, following the twisty route of the old Midland line. This section is used extensively by commuters who can comfortably average around 15 to 20 kilometers an hour compared to the average car speed of 10 to 15 in Bristol's horrendous rush-hour traffic.

The path rises slowly towards Fishponds, running through a very built-up area, albeit via cuttings that have been allowed to retain their natural undergrowth, lending a rural feel to such an urban area. You then pass through Staple Hill Tunnel, almost 500 yards long, with recently installed lighting inmproving the safety aspect for all.

After another mile or so, the route crosses a major road at Warmley, where you will find two roadside pubs, enjoyable not just for the opportunity to grab a beer, but also for the railway connections both still retain (see pictures).

Beyond here, you approach Bitton, where the old tracks are still used by a preservation society who organise steam trips along a small section of the line. Once clear of Bitton, the countryside takes over, with views across the southern Cotswolds before crossing the River Avon at Saltford and entering the tranquil setting of Kelston Park.

You are now entering the western suburbs of Bath, where the cycleway follows the canal towpath into the city centre and journey's end.

There are several attractions en route, including the picturesque remains of Mangotsfield Station, once an important junction; the preserved signal box and waiting room at the old Warmley Station (see picture); Willsbridge Mill visitor centre, where Avon Wildlife Trust have set up a nature reserve; the aforementioned Bitton Station with its regular "steam days"; and finally, the "Dramway," where the Bristol-to-Bath route follows the old Avon & Gloucester Railway line, opened in 1832 to carry coal from the collieries at Coalpit Heath to Keynsham for onward distribution via the nearby Kennet & Avon canal.

The pathway/cycle route is owned and maintained by the various councils whose land it crosses and is kept in good condition for the enjoyment and benefit of all. All the land was bought from British Rail and the major funding was provided by the Manpower Services Commission.

The City of Bristol is the centre of its own Unitarian authority, basically meaning that it governs itself and is regarded as a county in its own right. It is situated on the banks of the Severn Estuary, and in days gone by, ranked alongside London and Liverpool as one of the busiest ports in Britain.

It has population of around half a million and is the largest city in the west part of England, with major industries, including aircraft manufacture (Rolls Royce and British Aerospace), chemicals, and heavy engineering, plus it is a major port of entry for cars, coal, and oil-based products.

In the 10th century it was already a flourishing port, developing rapidly in the 11th century with the increase in wool trade with Ireland. This was further bolstered by the cloth-making industry in the 14th century. In 1497 John and Sebastian Cabot departed from Bristol for America.

Fortunes started to change in the 18th century with the demise of the cloth trade, but this was replaced quickly with the slave trade and business in general, with the Americas supplying metal processed in the city.

Things took a decidedly turn for the worse in the 19th century when the slave trade was abolished, and Bristol suffered hugely from competition from the likes of Liverpool, all this leading to a period of economic decline from which the docks never really recovered.

A slight reprieve was instigated with the arrival of the railway in 1841, with newer industries sprouting, such as brewing and tobacco, both of which, nowadays, have fallen by the wayside as the large multi-national companies have consolidated their operations to remain competitive.

Today, modern Bristol is a city undergoing a renaissance, with the old being swept away to make room for the modern industries upon which the city has built its reputation.

An endearing and lasting image for me will always be the sight of Concorde returning home to Bristol for the last time, where it was conceived, built, and tested, flying over the Clifton Suspension Bridge as a salute to Brunel and as a tribute to the engineering history of this fine city.