The Rocky Mountains have the best recreational skiing in the world. There is a long meteorological explanation having to do with the Gulf of Alaska, prevailing winds, deserts, dust, and salt, but the end result is snow that is only two-thirds to half the density of snow on the coasts or in the Alps or Colorado. The less dense the snow, the easier it is to control your skis, and 300-500" of snow each ski season is the norm. Western snow reaches its best along the Western edge of the Rockies, a zone running about 400 miles from southern Utah to mid-Montana.
Although it’s about an hour-long scenic drive from Bozeman to spectacular Big Sky, rooms in Bozeman are a bargain, and you have the option of skiing Bridger Bowl, one of the great undiscovered bargain ski areas. Everything considered, Bridger is the top choice for bargain skiing. The beginner area (Alpine Lift) is close to paradise, and hot doggers can risk life and limb in the chutes -- take avalanche warnings very seriously. Never cross a "closed" line here. In the select world of extreme skiers, Bridger's chutes are a Shangri-la.
The cafeteria offers good value, and the resort has a comfortable, folksy feel. Also, Bridger runs a bus from Bozeman, so you don't need a car. I don't like the layout of the intermediate terrain -- the pitch of the slopes is too varied for my tastes -- but then, there are only four ski areas anywhere where I like the intermediate runs.
Big Sky used to be our favorite ski area -- we almost moved to Bozeman to ski there – until they ruined it with a weird lift-ticket system that makes you insert your lift ticket into a turnstile on every run. Since Big Sky is one of the few resorts where crowds are so small you could regularly ski right out onto the chair, the turnstile put a crimp in the fun. So we moved to Deer Valley, and we ski right out onto the chair.
That said, Big Sky is a top-notch ski area, with something to delight skiers of all abilities. The Thunder Wolf quad serves up some of the best solid intermediate skiing anywhere, and empty runs abound. Bozeman is prone to temperature inversions. When -20 is the high in town, it is usually 30-40 degrees warmer up on the mountain.
Quick Tips:
Room rates in Bozeman are at low season in the winter, starting at . Montana does not screw visitors quite as badly with high tax rates as most states do. Room tax in Bozeman is 4% and 7% at Big Sky. It is near 12% in Colorado and Utah.
Diversions:
Snow-mobiling or snow coach tours in nearby Yellowstone.
The museum at the university.
No sales tax at low-priced Montana Wollens, far out west on Main St.
The 1930s movie theater in the center of the old downtown is worth a visit for its gilded interior.
Best Way To Get Around:
Winter airfare and rental car rates in Bozeman are high –- all the people going to Big Sky. Check nearby Billings, nearby because the speed limit on I-90 is 75 mph, from which you can also add Red Lodge to your ski trip.