A gem of architecture, art and music

1. Enjoy the summer atmosphere on Schlossplatz. Dominated by the Royal Palace and the Catholic Cathedral, this is the place to be if you want to savor the atmosphere set up by street musicians, who never fail to do their best to attract the flowing crowds. Climb the steps to the Bruhlsche Terrasse, a lovely panoramic promenade that takes on an air of liveliness and festivity in summer.

2. Attend for a night of classical music at the Semper Opera House on Theaterplatz. This gives you the double opportunity to enjoy top opera music and the glorious imposing interior of Dresden's Opera House. If you can't be here, join the tourist groups who attend for lighter music at the open-air theatre inside the Zwinger courtyard.

3. Visit at least one of the six Zwinger Complex museums. Not to be missed is the Old Masters' Gallery, a top collection of old paintings by the world best artists.

4. Walk over Augustusbrucke from where the architectural beauty of Dresden's Altstadt is as panoramic as the impressive view of the Elbe's south embankment. The Saxon paddle steamer fleet anchored to the pier provides a foreground to the huge dome of the newly reconstructed Frauenkirche.

Quick Tips:

1. To get a taste of Dresden's historic heart, it is necessary to appreciate the beautiful architecture of the numerous buildings that stand gloriously on Theaterplatz and Schlossplatz. If you add to this a visit to a couple of museums in the Zwinger Complex and the Albertinum, and a walk along the elevated Bruhlsche Terrasse that hangs over the river's south embankment, you will understand why Dresden requires more than a 1-day stay.

2. Although in the high-season months of July and August Dresden is besieged by tourists, staying overnight should pose no problem. A short distance north of Dresden's Hauptbahnhof on Pragerstrasse, there are four medium-priced high-rise hotels that will surely fit you in.

3. Tourist attractions in Neustadt, north of the Elbe, are few. But it's worth crossing Augustusbrucke to visit the Museum of Ethnology, which is housed in the Japanisches Palais on Palaisplatz. If you intend on coming here, you'll need another day to get a feel for this businesslike side of Dresden. On crossing the bridge, the gilded equestrian statue of August the Strong invites you to walk along Hauptstrasse, a pedestrianised mall lined with small shops and tiny attractive passageways set aside for handicraft industries.

Best Way To Get Around:

1.Probably visitors arrive at Dresden's Hauptbahnhof, south of the center. Currently under restoration, it will take years to complete. Before leaving the station, you have the opportunity to see from numerous designs fixed to a board near the ticket office how the station will look once it's ready. It will definitely be one of Germany's biggest railway stations, with information offices; shops; ticket machines; and more. For the time being, you have to exit over a long stretch of wooden planking that reaches as far as Wienerplatz from where you can reach the tourist office on the south end of Pragerstrasse in a couple of minutes.

2.If you're based in Neustadt, north of the river, it's better to stop at Dresden's Neustadt Bahnhof. All southbound trains stop here before reaching the Hauptbahnhof. From the station, exit on Antonstrasse which runs east toward Albertplatz, Neustadt's main square.

3.To see Dresden's main attractions ,which are mostly concentrated within the Altstadt south of the river, it's advisable to walk around. You can even walk over Augustusbrucke to Neustadt. However, if your time is limited, it's better to take a Neustadt-bound tram from any stop along Wilsdruffer Strasse.

The south end of Pragerstrasse is taken over by numerous business outlets and restaurants and there are no attractions in terms of art galleries, museums or architectural beauties. But anybody who arrives in Dresden at the main train station must necessarily pass through here to reach the Old Town where most sights are concentrated. As you exit from the station, you can't miss the huge Hotel Mercure on your left. A few steps further north, the corner building with the big glass display windows is Dresden's Tourist Office. Visible from here, on the other side of the square-like area are three identical high-rise hotels big enough to accommodate the population of a medium-sized village.

Constructed in the 1960s in the prefabricated concrete style and following the principle of "bigger is better," these three huge buildings were taken over by the Ibis Hotel chain and thoroughly renovated soon after the collapse of the German Democratic Republic. Hotel Dresden Koenigstein, conveniently located within walking distance of the train station and the Old Town is squeezed between Hotel Bastei and Hotel Lilienstein.

The hallway, formerly used by coach tour groups as a plain practical reception area began reinventing itself as an elegant and pleasant welcoming venue for business and independent travelers since the former East Germany opened up for tourists from the west. Adorned with comfy leather sofas and matching armchairs, it is an ideal place to sit over a cup of coffee. If you're craving for a snack and a good coffee on arrival, the adjoining restaurant-cafe that opens round the clock is definitely the place to be. The calm, relaxing and orderly atmosphere here is further enhanced by an aura of cleanliness and hospitality.

Within its massive structure, Hotel Dresden Koenigstein is spacious enough to comprise 116 small singles and 190 medium-sized doubles. All rooms restyled and refurbished with simple yet functional furniture have austere but otherwise excellent bathrooms with an automatically controlled hot water shower. A hot and cold air-conditioning system is standard in all rooms. Guests in Hotel Koenigstein are assured that anything faulty or malfunctioning will be amended within 30 minutes.

All this is obviously beneficial to guests who opt for Hotel Koenigstein for its easy accessibility and reasonable prices. However, there are a couple of disadvantages that may influence your stay here. One such disadvantage is directly concerned with the hotel's occupancy, which adds up to 452 guests when full. Don't ever dream of getting any personal attention or special consideration by the receptionists or other members of the staff. Though polite, friendly and helpful, they just don't have the time to answer your questions or give you the information you may require. A second disadvantage is the breakfast buffet for which you have to pay an extra 9 Euro. Though expensive, it definitely provides an endless profusion of tasty foods and hot drinks. However, if you walk further north on Pragerstrasse, you'll find breakfast restaurants that provide almost similar dishes for half the price.

Anybody who visits Dresden for a couple of days will definitely go around the Altmarkt Galerie, a huge three-story shopping arcade which houses numerous boutiques, souvenir shops, food stores, take-aways, restaurants and pubs. Concealed behind the arched walkway along the west side of the Altmarkt, the Altmarkt Galerie is a surprisingly modern and elegant shopping complex where you can easily spend a whole day looking into shops and enjoying the party-like atmosphere brought about by the streaming masses of tourists.

The main entrance on Webergasse, Altmarkt side leads to a beautiful courtyard that directs visitors towards the escalators. Once on the top floor, a short walk northwards brings you right in front of Ristorante Il Violino. As the name indicates, Il Violino is a typical medium-sized Italian restaurant that specializes in pizza, pasta and sweet dishes. The bright atmosphere inside is always bustling with activity, particularly if you are here for an early dinner. Although popular and always overcrowded with lovers of Italian food, Il Violino is never uneasy or disturbing and is the ideal place for a quick snack or a full meal after hours of shopping and sightseeing. In the evening, usually from 5pm to 8pm, the atmosphere is enhanced by background classical Italian music.

The extensive menu, exquisitely bound in brown leather displays a wide variety of pizza toppings with a detailed description of each. Similarly described are the flavoring gravies and sauces of the pasta dishes. The pasta au gratin is served with a choice of freshly grated cheeses that include tasty Parmigiano, delicious Grana Padano or salty Pecorino. Besides the wide range of delicious pizzas and savory pasta dishes for which Il Violino is renowned, the menu lists a dozen or so succulent specimens of mouth-watering salads. A salad of Gamberetti, rightly chosen by my wife for lunch was crispy, exquisitely presented and accompanied by oyster sauce, lemon, garlic and herbs.

I opted for a dish of tortellini with Parma ham, mushrooms and paprika which was generous and filling enough to leave no room for a second course. While waiting 20 minutes or so for our food, we soaked in the active but otherwise relaxing atmosphere of Il Violino whilst enjoying a glass of wine. The vast wine list is long enough to make the choice difficult; being no wine connoisseur, I chose at random a bottle of local Cabernet which happened to be rich, fruity and mellow.

When it was time to order the sweets, my wife and I were both feeling pretty full up but who could resist trying a slice of raspberry cake unfolded on a layer of almond sponge or a dish of black forest gateau topped with a dark layer of chocolate? We finished off with an espresso and the knowledge that Ristorante Il Violino provides genuine tasty Italian fare, impeccable service and a rich culinary experience beyond our expectations.

Like all shops in the Altstadt Galerie, Il Violino opens daily from 10am to 8pm.

Restaurants with the best street atmosphere in Dresden are definitely found along the tiny streets northwest of Frauenkirche. Packed with restaurants, pubs and the huge classic building of the Hilton Hotel, this area besieged by crowds of tourists looking for favorable open-air tables is a frequent venue for musicians and street performers who add to the lively atmosphere. Neither as crowded or bustling as here, nor as vivid or exciting, the area under the arched passageway west of the Altmarkt is nonetheless an ideal place to dine while enjoying a street atmosphere characterized by a flowing stream of tourists.

Balducci's Gastrofonie, conveniently located along the widest section of this walkway is a huge restaurant which occupies a palace-like premises characterized by a wide central red-carpeted staircase reminiscent of a kingly mansion. Set in orderly rows on either side of the staircase are dark-wood restaurant tables covered with frilled white tablecloths and matching napkins. More tables are obviously placed outside to fill up the vast spacious covered walkway. The ambience inside and out is one of elegance, order and refinement enhanced by vases of fresh flowers, atmospheric lanterns and candlelight. Daily after 8pm, the atmosphere is stirred up by recorded Italian music, mostly popular tunes or light opera compositions. Better is the atmosphere on a Saturday night when a couple of violinists perform live providing entertainment both for diners and passers-by.

Balducci's menu, exquisitely presented in a decorative jacket is an endless list of typical Italian food. For starters, the list includes crispy cheese or mozzarella salads, chopped strips of fresh tomatoes and green pepper blended with cream and topped with olive oil, risotto served with an assortment of seafood and a dozen or so varieties of Italian soups. My wife opted for a bowl of minestrone with noodles that she found tasty and savory. My dish of pasta e fagioli, flavored with fresh basil was equally delicious.

When the main dishes arrived, the presentation was enough to show that we were in for another mouth-watering experience. My wife's dish of roasted duck served with rucola and radishes on a bed of lettuce was colorful and delicious. Even more impressive was my dish of beef fillet served with mustard sauce and accompanied by creamed potatoes and asparagus salad. While sipping a bottle of red Chianti, we soaked in the magical atmosphere and the serene setting of this cozy and charming place. Unfortunately, we were full up and we couldn't cope with another mouthful when we caught a glimpse of the colorful sweets on the trolley. We finished off by having an espresso flavored with drops of Tia Maria.

Ideal for those who appreciate good food and a pleasurable dining experience, Balducci's Gastrofonie offers a great selection of exquisite Italian food at reasonable prices. Come here once and you'll definitely come again.

Opens daily from 11am to midnight.

Closer to Prague than to Berlin both with regards to distance and to splendour, Dresden is a glorious city that still retains a good number of outstanding Baroque buildings concentrated within a small space bordered from the north by the rounded bend of the River Elbe and from the south by busy Wilsdrufferstrasse. Almost all the things visitors see are post-war reconstructions or restorations since much of Dresden was brought to ruins or heavily damaged in 1945 when World War II was almost over.

Unfortunately, these great reconstructed masterpieces of architecture though less than 60 years old have suffered degeneration from pollution caused by East Germany's heavy industries. In spite of this black shroud which has marred the otherwise impressive and dazzling exterior of the city's fine buildings, people invariably flock to Dresden to admire its sumptuous architecture, cultural heritage, art galleries and invaluable treasures.

To get an orientation of Dresden's most splendid sights and attractions, there's no better way than to walk along Augustusbrucke, a huge bridge that spans the Elbe from the Altstadt south of the river towards Neustadt. If you are based anywhere south of the Elbe, walk northwards over Augustusbrucke and admire from its hanging semi-circular lookout balconies the active scene along the river's north embankment and the clearcut portrait-pretty view of the buildings that line Grosse Meissnerstrasse. If your time in Dresden is limited to a couple of days, don't venture beyond the northernmost end of Augustusbrucke into Neustadt but return over the bridge and feast your eyes on the most picturesque and impressive view Dresden unchangingly offers to visitors.

From the bridge, you can get the best view of the river's south embankment taken over by the Saxon paddle steamer fleet. Moored to the pier when not in service, these ships operated by their original century-old steam engines provide an impressive foreground to Dresden's unique architectural beauties. Hanging over the pier, the Bruhlsche Terrasse is an elevated walkway that appears stunningly pleasant from the bridge on a balmy summer evening. In the background is the huge dome of the Baroque Frauenkirche which has just taken new life after reconstruction. The high building you see constructed right on the south end of Augustusbrucke is the tower of the late Baroque Catholic Cathedral of the Bishopric Dresden-Meissen. Formerly known as the Hofkirche, it is joined via a small ornamental bronze bridge to the Royal Palace whose graceful tower is also visible from Augustusbrucke. The big building across the square from the Royal Palace, seen from the extreme south end of Augustusbrucke is the Semperoper, another glorious reconstructed Renaissance structure that is rightly considered one of the most elegant opera houses in the world.

Once you've formed an indefinite idea of what awaits you, it's advisable to start from Schlossplatz dominated by the Catholic Cathedral, the Royal Palace and the bustling masses of tourists who are trying to find their way towards the steps that lead up to the Bruhlsche Terrasse. You can visit the Cathedral's magnificent interior anytime when there is no worship service, usually between 9am and 5pm. Recitals held on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 11:30am give visitors the opportunity to listen to the tune of the Cathedral's original Silbermann organ. The Royal Palace still in the last phase of an extensive reconstruction and restoration programme houses a good photographic exhibition displaying the various stages of reconstruction.

From Schlossplatz, Augustusstrasse runs east towards Neumarkt. Lined with movable stalls selling commercial souvenirs and postcards, Augustusstrasse boasts a 102 metres long friezed mural made from Meissen ceramic tiles covering a strip of the outer wall of the former Royal Stables. Beautiful, artistic and impressive, this is one of Dresden's highlights that shouldn't be missed. Before walking along Augustusstrasse, go under the atmospheric arched walkway to the meticulously restored Royal Stables where the Verkehrsmuseum displays an interesting exhibition of century-old vehicles, wagons and open carriages.

The east end of Augustusstrasse opens into Neumarkt, a huge square dominated by the recently reconstructed Frauenkirche. An enormous imposing edifice with a majestic dome ringed with four identical square towers, Frauenkirche has been constructed using whenever possible the original material and fragments that were preserved from the debris of war. To get acquainted with the reconstruction project, visit the church's crypt on a one hour free tour; besides a lecture in German, you have the opportunity to view an informative film about the 800 years of the church's documented existence. The church's interior is still inaccessible to the public but you can look through its front temporary glass door to see restoration works in progress. The numerous expensive souvenir shops almost in front of the church along An der Frauenkirche belong to the atmospheric Hilton Hotel.

From here, you can simply proceed east along Topferstrasse towards the Albertinum. Better for atmosphere and for the scenic view is to go back to Schlossplatz and take the 30 steps up to the Bruhlsche Terrasse. This lovely promenade, a frequent venue for musicians and street performers takes on an air of liveliness and festivity in summer. Stroll east along the whole stretch of the promenade until you reach the Albertinum, a huge Baroque structure housing a remarkable art gallery of 19th- and 20th-century paintings. The Green Vault which contains an impressive collection of precious gold objects encrusted with jewels will shortly be transferred from the Albertinum to the Royal Palace.

Back on Schlossplatz, walk west past the Royal Palace towards Theaterplatz. This enormous square adorned with a central equestrian bronze monument is dominated by the majestic building of the Semperoper, a reconstruction that was completed only in 1985. Feast your eyes on its external architecture adorned with statues, columns and an extravagance of sculpted friezes and topped with a lovely four-horse chariot. Don't miss coming here for a night of opera, music or ballet performance which obviously gives you the added opportunity of seeing its glorious interior.

If you continue south along Theaterplatz, you reach steps that lead down to the Zwinger courtyard, a huge open space surrounded by a wealth of symmetrical Baroque buildings whose external magnificence is displayed through intricate ornamental sculptures, statues, balustrades and sweeping staircases. The courtyard itself is a frequent summer venue for light-hearted concerts.

It is however the cache of treasures inside that makes the Zwinger Complex one of the most valuable gems among the artistic collections of the world. Housing six different museums, the Zwinger is definitely Dresden's must-see. The Old Masters' Gallery with works by Giorgione, Titian, Rembrandt, Rubens and their schools is undoubtedly a treasure of artistic works few other world museums can match while the dazzling Porcelain Collection with numerous antique pieces incorporates the finest exhibits from various porcelain manufacturers worldwide. If your time is limited to the extent that you can't see the collections and exhibits inside the museums, it's advisable to take the steps to the roof from where the Zwinger Complex and its courtyard appear even more beautiful.

Dresden's popular love for music and the city's musical traditions are evident everywhere. To some extent, even without attending a formal concert, you can still appreciate the characteristic atmosphere of Dresden's musical scene. A short stroll around Schlossplatz or Theaterplatz on a calm summer evening will definitely give you the opportunity to meet clusters of street musicians doing their best to attract the attention of passing crowds. These may include student violinists from Dresden's Music College, jazz performers from the Neue Tonne Jazz Club or even mouth organists who have in some way or another excelled in their field of music. At the foot of the steps which lead up to the Bruhlsche Terrasse, I joined the hundreds who were listening attentively to a live performance given by an opera tenor accompanied by orchestra music from an electric organ. Obviously he was not a Jose Carreras or a Placido Domenigo but his high-pitched voice echoing across Schlossplatz was enough to stir up the atmosphere and give listeners a feel for classical music.

Such street music which frequently fills up the squares and streets of Dresden's most popular areas cannot be compared with the superlative performances regularly given inside the Semper Opera House on Theaterplatz, the Kulturpalast on the Altmarkt or the Operetta theatre along Pirnaer Landstrasse. The Opera House itself is a huge building whose beautiful external architecture mirrors its glorious interior. The theatre or auditorium where performances are held is a stately and imposing place whose elegance and decor few other theatres can match. The celebrated Sachsische Staatskapelle orchestra which dominates the Opera House musical scene is backed up by 450 years of opera history. Since its foundation, it has always been conducted by great composers of the caliber of Heinrich Schutz, Johann Adolph Hasse, Carl-Maria von Weber and Richard Wagner. Don Giovanni, Falstaff, Madame Butterfly, and La Boheme are some of the top operas featured here. They definitely surpass all expectations with regards to orchestra, vocal modulation and theatrical skill.

Equally amusing and aesthetically as pleasing are the concerts organised by the Dresden Philharmonic City Orchestra which sets up frequent first-class musical performances in the main hall of the Kulturpalast Civic centre on the Altmarkt. By no means can the place be compared for elegance with the Semperoper auditorium but those who are attracted by lighter classical music should undoubtedly come here. Popular musical specimens from Strauss and Haydn, Beethoven and Brahms, Stavinsky and Dvorak directed by world-renowned music masters are featured regularly inside the Kulturpalast.

As entertaining as the waltzes and symphonies played by the Philharmonic Orchestra are the operettas presented with style and excellence by the Staatsoperette Dresden inside the theatre at Pirnaer Landstrasse. The atmosphere here is more relaxed and less refined than in the Semper Opera House. However, the hours of entertainment provided by a combination of fine orchestra music, excellent singing, first-class acting and a fully equipped stage are equally pleasing and rewarding.

Besides operas, light classical music and operettas, Dresden is also the right place to be if you are fond of choral or church music. Most prominent in the vocal sphere is the internationally noted Dresden Kreuzchor Boys' Choir. This group of 400 young singers who perform choral parts mostly pertaining to sacred and church music rehearses and performs inside the reconstructed Kreuzkirche located on the southeast edge of the Altmarkt. Be here on a Saturday at 6pm when the choir gives a free grand-scale vesper singing performance accompanied by organ music. Numerous other vocal concerts mostly associated with the church calendar of events are regularly held here. These include A German Requiem by Brahms, Brandenburg Concertos by Bach, Sacred Symphonies by Schutz and Gabrieli, Advent Vespers, Christmas Oratorio, New Year's Eve Organ concert, Easter concert and more. For the benefit of Neustadt residents, some of the Boys' Choir performances are repeated inside the Dreikonigskirche located along the north edge of Hauptstrasse in Neustadt.

The huge crypt under the newly reconstructed Frauenkirche on Neumarkt is also a frequent venue for classical music concerts mostly set apart for string instruments. Souvenir de Florence by Tschaikowski and Goldberg Variations by Bach are two picks of the best string music played here.

Apart from these indoor venues where Dresden's top musicians and singers compete for popularity and esteem, the city's musical scene goes far beyond operas, operettas and choral singing. Every summer, the city becomes one big stage where open-air concerts and music festivals of all sorts are held regularly. One such venue is on Theaterplatz, the huge square in front of the Semper Opera House. Another place whose popularity has recently increased hundredfold is the open-air theatre inside the Zwinger courtyard. Operated by the Landesbuhnen Sachsen theatre company, it provides daily entertainment in June, July and August to satisfy the musical tastes of everyone. Dancing serenades, Baroque concerts, symphony music, light-hearted summer concerts, contemporary music and more are presented here on a temporary floodlit stage. The Zwinger foreshadowing its clearcut image on the stage enhances the atmosphere.

All this is a clear proof that Dresden knows no shortages neither with regards to theatres or open-air summer venues nor with regards to proficient music ensembles. Young musicians are constantly given every encouragement to perform and improve their talent. One thing is certain: whatever the type of music, if it is performed in Dresden, it's definitely of an outstanding standard.

There's no better way to discover the beauty of the Saxon landscape along the embankments of the river Elbe than to take a day tour on a vintage paddle steamer, either eastwards towards the unique rocky landscape of Saxon Switzerland or westwards towards the wine-growing district of Meissen and Diesbar-Seusslitz.

Dresden's pier on the south embankment of the Elbe beneath the famous Bruhlsche Terasse is the right place where delightful trips begin. The paddle steamer fleet comprises 8 century-old wheel steamboats that were so beautifully and faithfully restored as to provide a major attraction even when moored to the pier between Dresden's two central bridges. Powered by original steam engines, they offer a full range of excursions which include full day tours to Meissen, Pirna and beyond, shorter tours to Radebeul and Pillnitz, summer evening tours accompanied by music and entertainment and festival tours to mark a special feast or occasion.

Whichever excursion you choose, a fascinating journey on a side-wheel steamboat combined with the beauty of a captivating shoreline is as unforgettable as the architectural beauty of Saxony's capital. If you opt for the eastbound tour, you will have the opportunity to view some of the most rugged rocky terrain in the area and the sandstone mountain peaks with which nature has adorned Saxon Switzerland. Discover for yourself numerous freestanding sandstone formations that alternate with deep fertile valleys and majestic forested plateau. On reaching the small town of Pillnitz, you will be given time to visit its untouched historic center which is endowed with a graceful church and a wonderful medieval palace. Further southeast, the town of Pirna is also well worth a visit. Not to be missed are the late Gothic monastery church of St. Mary, the local history museum and the famous vineyard terraces which produce some of the best wine in the region. From here, you can continue through the whole stretch of Saxon Switzerland towards the Czech Republic.

Visitors who opt for the westbound trip from Dresden to Meissen will be given the opportunity to explore the regional viticultural traditions that stretch back to the Middle Ages. The first stop along the route is Radebeul, a town that boasts extensive vineyard terraces and a wonderful hilly park topped by the small picturesque Wackerbarth Castle. Some distance further west, the city of Coswig endowed with a small medieval church is surrounded by more vineyard terraces, impressive landscapes and sloping terrain.

The highlight of the westbound tour is definitely the romantic city of Meissen, considered to be Saxony's birthplace. Perched on a hill in Meissen's center is a restored Gothic Cathedral with the remains of Saxon rulers and numerous invaluable works of art. Nearby, Albrechtsburg Castle noted for its interior's ribbed vaulting is a prime example of late Gothic architecture. The city's principal attraction that no visitor should miss however is the State Porcelain Manufactory which besides displaying the world's largest 3 thousand piece collection of Dresden china is the place to be if you want to see the whole interesting process involved in making fine artistic porcelain. Much restoration work is currently in progress throughout the whole city of Meissen and when completed in a few years' time, Meissen's former glory will be clearly evident. End your visit in Meissen by looking quickly around one of the city's inner courtyards or centuries-old arched cellars where probably you will be given the opportunity to taste one or more of Meissen's excellent wine varieties. 'Gold Riesling', 'Muller-Thurgau', and 'Blue Late Burgundy' are all equally aromatic, fruity and rich. From Meissen, you can continue on the steamboat further northwest to Diesbar-Seusslitz, a wine-growing district with an impressive landscape of steeply terraced slopes.

Taking a steamboat excursion is perhaps the most entertaining way to get acquainted with the shoreline landscape along the river Elbe. However, this is not the only viable option. Dresden's sporty visitors who feel fit enough to cycle will find along the stretch of the Elbe from Pirna to Diesbar-Seusslitz an extensive network of marked first-class cycling paths. Cycling eastwards, these paths offer a good panorama of the entire mountain range around Saxon Switzerland while westwards, they provide an equally good scenic route along wine-growing districts. Before embarking on such a cycling tour which rewards you from the start with fantastic views of river meadows and rocky landscapes, buy a cycling map from Dresden's Tourist Office at Pragerstrasse 10. Cyclists are advised to keep to the signposted routes, particularly when travelling across the Elbe sandstone mountains which may have deep fissures and dangerous rock crevices. Besides giving you the chance to enjoy the rewarding sights of the region at leisure, cycling gives you the added benefit of choosing worthwhile stops along the way.

One other option that is however time consuming is to take a bus or train from Dresden to a particular destination and then hike around the area at leisure along marked hiking trails. The small town of Pillnitz east of Dresden for example, has an excellent hiking trail across the mountainous area of Koniglicher Weinberg while Radebeul, 10kms west of Dresden has longer trails which lead further west towards Coswig. The hiking trails south of Diesbar-Seusslitz take you around extensive meadows and enormous vineyard terraces which stretch towards Meissen.

If you have more time to spare, another rewarding option is to travel from Dresden to the small town of Radebeul-Ost from where a narrow-gauge old-timer train goes uphill amidst steep vineyard terraces before passing over a dam through a romantic valley towards the town of Moritzburg. It continues through an impressive scenic route before reaching the bigger town of Radebeul from where you can travel back easily by bus to Dresden.

Dresden's most beautiful attractions, churches and museums are concentrated south of the Elbe between Wilsdrufferstrasse and Terrassenufer. Known as the Altstadt, it is considered to be the city's pulsating historic heart and is obviously a must for visitors. However, those who want to get acquainted with all the facets of Dresden's cosmopolitan gem must necessarily discover Neustadt, definitely the city's thriving commercial area and shopping destination.

There's actually nothing new in Dresden's Neustadt but contrary to the Altstadt, it represents everything that is young, modern, fashionable and enthusiastic. Neustadt's atmospheric streets and the buildings within them have just been renovated and restyled but not reconstructed. Mostly untouched by war, they still offer a variety of beautiful architectural styles that invoke a feeling of 18th-century life.

If you're based anywhere around the Altstadt, the best way to visit Neustadt is to walk over Augustusbrucke from Schlossplatz towards Grosse Meissnerstrasse. If you prefer using transport, take Tram 4 or 8 or 9 from any stop along Wilsdrufferstrasse on the north side of the Altmarkt to Neustadter Markt. Once here, you can't miss the fully gilded equestrian statue of August the Strong. Standing on a huge ornate pedestal in the center of the square at the north end of Augustusbrucke, the Goldener Reiter, as it is known, invites visitors for a stroll along pedestrianised Hauptstrasse, a 1km boulevard whose central green area is taken over by a row of plane trees, flowering plants and shrubs. Both sides of Hauptstrasse are lined with an extravagance of small specialty shops and shopping arcades.

Before starting your walk on Hauptstrasse, it is advisable to proceed westwards for about 100 meters along Grosse Meissnerstrasse until you reach the Japanisches Palais on Palaisplatz. This huge building whose external Baroque architecture complements its glorious interior houses three interesting museums: the small but excellent Museum of Saxon Prehistory, the Zoological Museum with numerous natural history collections from the region and the first-class Museum of Ethnology which displays an abundance of artifacts related to early Saxon culture and folklore.

Back on Hauptstrasse, visitors will be surprised by the long chain of small specialty boutiques and souvenir shops that elbow for space along the south end of Hauptstrasse. Mostly catering for individualists, these boutiques offer a wide range of international fashion clothing and designer collections. The souvenir shops are mostly concerned with artistic handicrafts and offer authentic Saxon works made by local artists. The display is so well organized and presented that it will definitely tempt you to buy a couple of preferred items to take back home. Not to be missed are the unique newly opened shopping arcades that have been constructed inside century-old Baroque town houses. Faithfully preserving the old artistic features inside and out, these are now taken over by small craft industries that invite you to look around, enjoy the atmosphere and spend your time and money here.

Halfway along Hauptstrasse, Metzerstrasse is a side street that has been the site of Germany's finest and most romantic market hall since 1899. Known as the Neustadter Markthalle, it is a wonderful three-storey redbrick construction worth visiting even for its unique external architecture. More impressive however is its floodlit vaulted interior decorated with wrought iron railings, staircases and atmospheric lanterns. The wide range of food items on offer includes oven-fresh bread and pastries, top-class meat products, local and international wines and spirits, cheese specialties, dairy products and fresh fruit and vegetables from the region. One of the best shops is Konsum, a leading quality supplier of fresh food and drinks. Equally good are Der Kaskeller which offers a large selection of cheeses and cheese specialties and Weinkontor, a wine cellar stocking over 1,000 different wines and spirits imported from all over the world. Before making your way out of the market hall, be sure to go down to the basement level where a small but interesting display of vintage motor vehicles awaits you.

From the west end of Metzerstrasse, the church you see on the other side of Hauptstrasse is Dreikonigskirche. It is the frequent venue for musical concerts, mostly choral singing by the Kreuzchor Boys' Choir. From here, Hauptstrasse lined with more specialty shops and boutiques runs north towards Albertplatz, a huge square considered to be the center of Dresden's thriving outdoor scene. Decorated with a central evocative marble statue of Schiller, this square whose sides are taken over by two small identical parks with fountains is the ideal place to relax after hours of shopping and sightseeing.

Numerous streets spread out from Albertplatz towards various destinations in Neustadt. One such street that merits a careful inspection is Konigstrasse, an atmospheric street running from Albertplatz towards Palaisplatz. Lined on both sides with small shops and Baroque inner courtyards which have just been restored and restyled to their former glory, Konigstrasse is a unique shopping paradise that caters for all sorts of customers, even the most discerning. There are 15 restored shopping arcades around the whole district of Konigstrasse. Passage Konigstrasse for example, is occupied by a wonderful combination of art galleries, artists' studios and handicraft workshops. More impressive is the Musenhof Shopping Gallery housed inside one of the finest Baroque courtyards in the region. Occupied by specialty boutiques, antique shops and more art galleries, it invites visitors to wander, look around and enjoy. More chic and exquisite than either Passage Konigstrasse or the Musenhof Shopping Gallery is the Prisco Passage, a luxurious and stylish selection of side-by-side shops that offer all sorts of international fashions and elegant home furnishings. Owned by the Italian businessman Arturo Prisco and designed by Kai von Doring within a former petrol storage depot, it caters mostly for those whose tastes are as special as their pockets are deep.

Another street that spreads out from Albertplatz is Bautznerstrasse. Running eastwards along the Outer New City District, this long busy street deserves more than just a quick look. Starting from Albertplatz, the first 200 meters or so is a legendary area taken over by bars, cafés and nightclubs which were constructed within the restored town houses of the district. Considered to be Dresden's most lively night scene, this area is a venue of countless bars that pulsate with entertainment, disco music and cabaret all night long. When the last pubs are closing their doors in the early morning, you can already have breakfast in one of the numerous restaurants in the area.

If you proceed further eastwards along Bautznerstrasse, you will find more leisure establishments, multiplex cinemas, food shops and offices. About 2kms away from Albertplatz, visitors will be surprised to find the world's finest dairy shop. Called Dresdner Molkerei Pfunds, it is a specialty shop that offers the widest range of international cheese products, Meissen wines and Dresden cakes in Germany. More impressive than the display of cheese and milk products is its wonderful two-storey interior covered with hundreds of artistic handmade Meissen ceramic tiles that together form a unique geometric ensemble of great beauty. The 90 seat café-restaurant upstairs offers besides coffee, an unusual assortment of cakes, fruity milk-based drinks and cheese specialties.