What a place, what buildings, what smells and sights.
Bangkok is a city we’d always wanted to visit and an experience we’ll never forget.
On our first day, we caught the river taxi from our hotel and made our first blunder. I spotted a vacant seat on the crowded boat and directed my wife towards it. Thai passengers looked disapprovingly and an English speaker said it was not possible for my wife to sit down, but I could. Bewildered, I sat down. Next to me was a brightly clad Buddhist Monk, and it was evident that women should not impinge on their personal space. This was our first lesson in local etiquette. He was, however, quite happy for me to sit down, and with his limited English, we chatted.
The view down the river was full of contradictions: the opulence of the shopping centres and lavish hotels to the river houses verging on squalor. Then the incredible sight of the Wat Arun followed closely, on our side of the river by Wat Phra Keo. This was where we disembarked; our intention was to wander aimlessly around the perimeter walls of The Grand Palace taking in any local sites. The place is awash with temples, and rapidly, against our better judgment, we were talking to a local. He claimed to be a teacher who wanted to practice his English on us and show us around the locality. We stated that we had no money to give for his time, and he said that it was fine because he wanted to share Thai culture with us. A con or not? It mattered not because we had only enough cash to see us back to the hotel. He took us to a super little temple and took pride in pointing out the statue to the King of Siam (of the King and I fame) and then bid his farewell. Not all people are predatory ones seeking cash from tourists. Perhaps we were foolish and lucky, but we did see part of Bangkok not normally seen by tourists.
We hailed a tuk-tuk, those three-wheeled, two-stroke vehicles, negotiated a price, and then hung on, as the driver accelerates at a speed that seems beyond the capability of the engine. You feel so vulnerable at the back, and as the emission of noxious fumes contributes to the already polluted Bangkok atmosphere, we wish that we’d taken advice and brought a smog-mask with us. After the fear of carbon monoxide poisoning subsides, we settle back and enjoy the trip. The traffic jam ahead is not for us as we shoot down a nearby alleyway, and the tuk-tuk finds every single pothole as we ricochet down this unmade road. We arrive back in one piece, and looking back, find the journey quite exhilarating. I would certainly recommend that you have at least one tuk-tuk ride whilst in Bangkok.
That night, we head off to the Silom Road, an important commercial centre and the home of Patpong, Bangkok’s centre of nightlife. This is a fascinating area, and if you are sensible, there is no reason why you should not enjoy the experience. There are numerous shops, jewelers, and street vendors. It’s here that you can find copies of almost all branded goods from Gucci, Polo, and Laurent to Rolex, Cartier, and Brietling. You want it? Then you’ll find it here, but make sure you don’t offer the asking price or expect a valid warranty! In the heart of Patpong you’ll be propositioned and offered massages, front seats at the sex shows, a chance to guess the gender of the model-like personages sitting at the entrances to the go-go bars. This does not seem like a grubby part of town, and you do need to remember that it is traditional in Thailand for the young male’s sex education to start with a visit to a brothel. Prostitution in Thailand does seem to be an acceptable part of life. Whilst here, check out the restaurants; there are plenty to choose from, and some, those full of locals, are worth a visit.
The Erawan Shrine is a recent construction, but it is still quite magnificent. Ensure you see this at night, as it is only then that you’ll appreciate the blaze of the candles and the importance attached to it by the many devotees.
I’d also recommend you seek out China Town. The alleyways making up China Town run for seven blocks and are chock-a-block with on-street food vendors (selling "edible" items far beyond my imagination) and market stalls selling textiles, clothing, kitchenware, toys, souvenirs, and other things. It’s a bustling place, but image as you walk down these allies how different it once was, with opium dens, gambling houses, and brothels - a haven for those who wished to pursue a debauched lifestyle!
On the outskirts of China Town we found Wat Traimit. This is famous for the solid gold Buddha that it houses. It’s difficult to conceive that this was only discovered in the 1950s, when a cement covered Buddha was accidentally dropped whilst moving it during construction work at another site. As it weighs in excess of 5 tons, it must have been quite an experience for all concerned. On our way back to the hotel, we saw, tucked up a side road off a busy roundabout, a hospital with an amazing little temple. They get everywhere, and like all temples that we’d seen, this too was crammed with worshippers.
Over the weekend, at Chatuchak Park, is a grand market. We had an early start and took a taxi, but as it’s opposite the Northern Bus Terminal, a bus journey would be straightforward. It’s a cracking market full of all the normal stalls (check out the spice stalls), and remember, barter for everything. Just down the road from the thousands of stalls in the weekend market is the permanent plant market. If you have any interest in gardening, you could spend a couple of hours strolling around the long rows of shops displaying ornamental trees and shrubs alongside pots and gardening tools. Additionally, you’ll see dazzling displays of flowering orchids. Who would have though that there so many varieties?
Having done the market we picked up a tuk-tuk and negotiated a great deal for the rest of the day. For 30bhts, he would drive us around some other key sites in Bangkok on the condition that we spent at least 10 minutes looking round a jewellery centre and a tailor’s shop (this was not a chore, as both experiences were of interest to us). He then picked up a fuel voucher, which obviously made the journey worth his while. First, he took us to the Golden Mount, the highest point of Bangkok, and at the top, reached by over 300 steps, is the oldest temple in Bangkok. This is an artificial hill and is recognised as an extremely holy place, but once, during the cholera epidemics, it was used as an open burial site for victims. There was no ceremony here, just a laying out near the temple, the then bodies rapidly devoured by vultures. If you get over its grizzly history, the view from the top is stupendous – all of Bangkok laid out in front of you. If you’re like me, you won’t be able to resist the temptation to ring the bells en route to the top and then marvel at the varieties of Buddhas on display inside the temple.
The next journey was to see the largest freestanding Buddha in Bangkok. It is huge and extremely difficult to photograph! Surrounding it were numerous souvenir shops, market stalls, and fast-food outlets. Somehow this didn’t seem right – perhaps we’d stumbled on the Thai version of Vegas!
We were then driven to the Democracy Monument, shown a few more temples, driven past a magnificent building very similar to Buckingham Palace, and then to our final stop at Wiman Mek Palace. This is a fantastic building in beautifully landscaped grounds. Originally a summerhouse on the island of Si Chang, it was moved to its present site in the early 1900s. The palace was originally built in 1868 and was the first house in Siam to have electricity. It was unoccupied shortly afterwards, remaining unused until it was re-opened in 1982 to mark Bangkok's bicentennial celebration. It’s European in style, but built in the Thai tradition, using teak wood and not a single nail. Apparently it is still used by the present king as his summer retreat. You must have a guided tour around this building, and they are very keen to ensure that you don’t break rank. Cameras are not allowed so just savour the superb rooms, lavish furnishings, and royal treasures. Keep an eye out for the oldest typewriter with Thai characters! In the grounds they have regular displays; we caught an elaborate exhibition of Thai dancers, and then enjoyed the gardens and waterscapes. The Royal Carriage Museum is also worth a call.
Our main disappointment was that we ran out of time – 3 days is just not enough!