10 days in Phnom Penh

Places to see: Toul Sleng Genocidal Museum, The Killing Fields - not "fun," but memorable; The Royal Palace (try to get a good guide); the National Museum

Things to do: Go for a massage (we went to the "seeing hands" chain, which has blind masseuses) - just US-5 for a 1-hour massage; shop at Central/Russian Market; visit one of the many NGOs and see the work they do; eat at a riverside restaurant; try the coconut ice cream

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Both markets have numerous stalls which sell clothes, kramas (Cambodian scarves), woodcarvings, silver jewellery and other textiles.

The Russian market is smaller and the stalls are cramped and dark. A visit to the markets is like diving into a dingy, dark hole, and on humid days, it is rather suffocating.

The Central market is my preferred choice, as it is brighter, airier, and has wider walking areas. It also has a wider range of products to purchase and has more books. Some people do say that it is also more pricey.

In any case, bargaining is the order of the day. But seeing the state of some of the Cambodians, especially landmine victims who hawk books and postcards for a living, I avoid being mercenary when making a deal.

Most people visit the Cheoung Ek killing fields after S-21. This is the place most of the S-21 residents were executed and "buried" - often piled up in shallow graves. One of the largest of the many killing fields located in Cambodia, it is best to engage a guide to navigate you through this "seemingly innocent and peaceful" place but with a sad past.

Note that the ride to the killing fields is very bumpy and there are many flies there. Bring repellent if you are sensitive to flying creatures.

It was my first experience and a fun one. My friend booked the appointment, and we arrived on time. We changed into loose pajama-type tops and bottoms and lay on our assigned table. The place is busy, and the room that I was in had about six to eight beds. My masseuse greeted me in English and my massage experience began. He placed a thin piece of cloth and started in the massage at my head. Mainly using shiatsu methods, the massage was so soothing that I fell asleep halfway. I awoke towards the end and felt rejuvenated. It was a lovely experience for only $4.50. I did it twice on this holiday!