Better than basics - Tioman

Tioman is a great place to enjoy simple pleasures: watching the sun set while sitting in a deck chair in the sea, snorkelling, watching the stars at night, and enjoying the weekend barbecue and walks. This Malaysian resort island is sleepy compared to its Thailand competitors, Samui and Phuket, who have been heavily hit by commercialism. There is hardly any shopping, restaurants, or commercialised sight-seeing. Trips can be arranged, but there is no urgency. The only way to get around the island is by water taxi, as there is no main road connecting the whole island. The Malay community is relaxed and easy-going, helpful, but without high service standards. The advantage is that there are few touts and and little chance of being cheated or disturbed. This is a great place to disappear from the city hustle for a few days with a friend or two and a good book.

Quick Tips:

Check the internet, especially Tioman.com.my, for reasonable and comfortable accommodations that can be booked through the Internet. The better value accommodations tend to be the smaller establishments, not those booked through a large travel agency. You will enjoy the experience if you go there with a intent to relax. Do not expect quick service, nor five-star amenities, and you will discover the inherent beauty of the island and appreciate the friendliness of the people. Being in a natural environment, you should have a relatively high tolerance to bugs, lizards (there are many large monitor lizards around), monkeys, cats, butterflies, and bats.

Best Way To Get Around:

Some stretches can be walked, but the sea taxi is needed to get to most parts of the island. A half-day-around-the-island trip is good to familiarise yourself with the island and the different communities and accommodations available.

My last visit to Tioman was unexpected. We had initially booked a place in a small resort in Pulau Rawa, but that fell through because of a mix-up at the resort. So with one day before our holiday was to start, we scrambled for a place to go and fell back on an old favourite-Tioman.

Failing to get a place at Bamaboo Hills, where we stayed the last time, we visited www.Tioman.com.my to have a look at the alternatives. We finally settled on the Panuba Inn, which is just a little ways from Bamboo Hill. We were not disappointed.

Panuba Inn has many advantages over ABC. To me, the most important was the beach. The waters were crystal clear and even from the small jetty one could see schools of fishes of all kinds. If you snorkel less than a metre from shore, you can see all kinds of colourful fishes pecking away at the rocks. Snorkeling a bit further, especially to the right end of the beach, will bring you to pretty purple and orange corals and larger fish. The beach also offered a front row seat to the lovely sunsets each evening, which we enjoyed in a deck chair that we plunged into the sea.

The rooms were decent with air conditioning (cheaper fan-only rooms are also available), a mini-fridge, TV(only two local stations), and hot showers. Each room also has a lovely balcony with a sea view. The only complaint would be the sandy floor and sandy sheets. Also, as our chalet was near the dive centre, the pumping air into the oxygen tanks made quite a racket at night. The cost was $98 Ringgit (less than S$50), and a simple breakfast was included.

The food at the little restaurant was decent, but we didn't expect much as we are quite aware of Tioman's mediocre standard of cuisine. Of all food, I think their local dishes and burgers are not bad, although a little greasy. What was a little disconcerting though were the many cats that gathered around you as you ate. One cat jumped on a ledge and stared at my spaghetti for a full 5 minutes before I changed places. Another jumped on my lap four times to get closer to my barbeque fish. The mini-mart at the cafe is well-stocked with snacks and drinks if you feel hungry in the day.

The inn can arrange day trips for standard rates. We went on a half-day snorkelling trip, but had to wait several days, as there needs to be a minimum number to make up the group. If you are adventurous, you can follow a steep trail to go to the ABC beach; it takes about 20 minutes, but is a considerable amount of climbing. From ABC it is possible to walk to the Marine Park, about 30 minutes away.

If you would like a quiet place to relax and unwind, Panuba Inn is an excellent choice.

These chalets are the nicest place to stay along the Air Batang Beach. Set on a hill at the northern end of the beach, all chalets offer beautiful, seaside views. On stormy days, it is exciting to see the dark clouds gathering on the horizon, the rain moving towards the island, and the electrifying lightning show.

The chalets are simple, but comfortable, with basic amenities like a coffee/tea- maker, clean rooms, and toilets. Those used to luxury may miss the air conditioning and hot water. The surroundings are pleasant with beautiful, natural foliage; flowers; butterflies; monkeys; and bats. Food is available at the ABC chalets next door, which is a decent place.

The beach is rocky, but has some interesting sea life. A great place to relax, read, and daydream.

As the only five-star resort on the island, this place fails to live up to its reputation and price. Having gone there on a public holiday, the place was crowded with holidaymakers. We had to wake up early each day to have our breakfast and reserve a deck chair before the crowds came. The long queues during dinnertime meant a 20 - 30 minute wait to be seated. The rooms were small and not well maintained. When we were there, the door of the shower cubicle fell on my head and the water in the sink would not drain. We had to call reception three times to get them to bring in an extra bed that we had requested on checking in. This place is overcrowded and overpriced.

I will confess that I am a timid snorkeller. I have my own mask and snorkel, but have always felt safer to float in very shallow water and would rush ashore at the sight of a jellyfish, even one the size of my thumb.

Finally, with my friends, we gathered courage to go on a snorkelling trip to the coral island just off Tioman. In our tiny, one-motor speedboat (the boat was shaking furiously), we, with life jackets, plunged into the deep, deep water. The two big rocks on the surface were colourful coral reefs below. Fishes of many species were swimming below and even towards me. There were many jellyfish, but also pretty pink and orange corals and scary black urchins. We later proceeded to other places, but what was memorable was when we accompanied a local abang (brother) to look for turtles. We found two of them and a small reef shark. For a novice snorkeller, it really made my day.

Since I've been to Tioman three times in three different ways, let me share them with you and let you know the best way to travel.

Most comfortable
The quickest and most comfortable way is to fly. Berjaya Air flies daily from Singapore's Seletar Airport to Tioman. On landing at the airport, at the Tekek village, you can take a water taxi to your resort/accommodation on the island. Flight time is about 45 minutes, cost S$250(return). On my last visit, my friend and I were the only two people on the plane – it was like we had our own private jet.

The cheapest
We took a bus from Singapore (Lavender Bus Terminal) to Mersing, then a speedboat to Tioman. The bus ride was about 3 hours and the speedboat about 1 and a half hours. Coming back, we managed to get a bus from one of the local travel agencies at Mersing ferry terminal for 20 ringgit (about S$10) and which got us to Singapore in slightly less then 2 hours. An even cheaper option but more troublesome way would be to get a local bus to Larkin bus terminal in Johore Bahru and get a bus ticket to Mersing from there. Travel time to Tioman, 4 and a half hours, cost about S$35 one-way.

The in-between
If you like to travel by sea, there is a direct ferry from Singapore’s Tanah Merah terminal to Tioman (Berjaya jetty). It is a 4 hour ride and costs about S$150 (return). The ferry is not too stable and can feel stifling on a hot day with many people on the boat…but it’s direct and cheaper than the plane.