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London

A Royal Tour of London

Front view of Buckingham PalaceMore Photos

by Drever

A September 2004 travel journal

Last Updated: October 10, 2004

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The gilded portals of Buckingham Palace; the Debating Chambers of the Houses of Parliament; Royal Windsor, the largest occupied palace in the world; renowned Kew Gardens; and a flight of fantasy on the London Eye – these are some of the sights I saw on my three-day London tour.

Front view of Buckingham Palace
Not everyone will get an invite to Buckingham Palace! You can, however, be like me and invite yourself during August and September - when the Queen makes her annual visit to Scotland, the palace's 19 Staterooms are open to visitors.

Buckingham Palace is the London home and office for Her Majesty The Queen. Here the Royal Family receives and entertains guests on state, ceremonial and official occasions in the Staterooms. Such grandeur and protocol is apt to make guests edgy and nervous, but the Queen herself is expert at putting people at ease. She has no pretentious airs and graces everyone, but show respect towards her.

During the tour, you advance at your own pace, with the help of an audio guide, through the richness and grandeur - it is overwhelming. The building contains sculptures by Canova and Chantrey, exquisite examples of Sèvres porcelain, and some of the finest English and French furniture in the world. Red carpets cover floors extensively, and it is easy to develop a crick in one’s neck looking up at the ornate ceilings.

History and occasion are everywhere. In the scarlet and gold Throne Room sit the coronation chairs used by Her Majesty and Prince Philip in 1953. The magnificent Ballroom, extending to 122 feet, dates from 1856 in Queen Victoria's reign to celebrate the end of the Crimean war. She and Prince Albert were fond of costume balls and music - costumes, musical instruments, manuscripts, photographs, and souvenirs from that period are on display in the Ball Supper Room.

Investitures are held in the Ballroom. Earlier, the queen would do her homework to have a suitable question ready to put the nervous recipients of the awards at ease. The sword used is on display.

The picture gallery designed by Nash contains paintings by Rembrandt, Rubens, Vermeer, Poussin, Canaletto, and Claude. The vibrantly coloured silk walls in the Green Drawing Room provide the perfect compliment to the beautifully coved and gilded ceiling. In the State Dining Room, the red silk damask on the walls makes a fitting background to the state portraits of Kings and Queens from George III to George IV. The dining table itself, when set, has the plates and cutlery set out using a ruler.

The Blue Drawing Room, another of Nash's spectacular rooms has 30 fake onyx columns and a Sevres porcelain table made for Napoleon. From the semicircular bow window of the domed Music Room, there is a clear view of the garden and grounds. The 39-acre garden is an oasis for wildlife, and offers superb views of the Garden Front of the Palace and the 19th-century lake.

Perhaps most magnificent of all is the White Drawing Room, furnished with French antiques and English-cut, glass chandeliers suspended from the ceiling, the delicate colours of the furnishings standing out against the white and gold walls.

Unfortunately, so much grandeur in so many rooms tends to merge as a blur in one’s memory.

Admission: Adults £9

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Drever on October 7, 2004

Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace Road London, England SW1A 1AA
+44 (207) 321 2233

Kew Gardens

Activity

A marvel of glass and iron
We entered through the Victoria Gate and came immediately to a restaurant. It was busy so we grabbed sandwiches, something to drink, and secured a vacant table. In my mind, gardens are something to enjoy at leisure so we were in no hurry.

Kew Gardens lies on the south bank of the Thames River in the suburbs of southwest London. Away from the hustle of the busy, built-up areas, it is worth a trip - Kew Gardens Station is only 30 minutes from central London. The area is one of total peacefulness and tranquillity. The gardens are popular, especially in the spring and summer when so many roses and other plants are out and the scents waffle along as you walk. The place makes for an ideal lazy day.

The 300 acres contains more than 25,000 varieties of different plants. The gardens are "royal" because for many years members of Britain’s royal family owned the two estates, Richmond and Kew, now forming the gardens.

At the Dutch house (Kew Palace), George II and III and their Queens spent happy days. Restored over the years, the house still contains relics of that time.

Princess Augusta, George III’s mother, began the gardens in 1759. She had the present Orangery, Pagoda, and Ruined Arch created. In 1760, George III furthered the work by calling in the garden architect Capability Brown to landscape the park. Under George III and unofficial director Joseph Banks, Kew Gardens flourished. He dispatched assistants across the globe to gather rare, unusual, and interesting botanical specimens. In 1840, the gardens became state property. The new director Sir William Hooker founded the Museum, the Department of Economic Botany, the Library, and the Herbarium.

The gardens now present a mix of landscaped lawns, formal gardens, and greenhouses. It also functions as a botanical research centre and preserves the largest plant collection in the world. The various greenhouses display plants from across the world in climate-controlled environments, while Kew Gardens Gallery houses art and photographs showing botanical themes. Queen Charlotte's Cottage is a summerhouse alongside a lake.

Spectacular buildings such as the Orangery, the Temperance House, and the Palm House shelter plants. The latter is a marvel of glass and iron - inside its humid interior, spectacles immediately mist over. The Chinese Pagoda built in 1761 offers panoramic views through a camera mounted 50m high. It is one of Kew's most recognizable buildings.

The garden doesn’t just deal with present plant forms. Evolution House, a small glass building, contains displays showing changing plant life on earth. The Wood Museum explains how to make paper and shows examples of inlaid wood cabinetry.

The gardens are full of beauty, with interesting and tranquil walks. You can discover something new in the park every time you take a walk. The Grass Garden alone has over 600 varieties. Kew remains one of the world's leading public gardens.

Admission: Adults £8.50, children free.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Drever on October 7, 2004

Kew Gardens
Royal Botanic Gardens London, England TW9 3AB
+44 20 8332 5655

London Eye

Activity

London Eye from Palace of Westminister
I recall being at a staff Christmas party and being ordered by my boss to enjoy myself. Cracking near-the-truth jokes about him, I realised, was perhaps not the best way to go about it. The Millennium celebrations also had to be enjoyed, and umpteen crackpot schemes were put forward to celebrate it. Among the worst was the Millennium Dome in London, and among the best, an idea by Julia Barfield and David Marks – British Airways’ competition winners.

They wanted to present something symbolic that people could participate in and enjoy. They came up with the idea of a giant observation wheel. Perhaps not entirely original; for one was built for Chicago’s Worlds Columbian Exposition in 1893. It became known as the Ferris wheel, after its designer - his name becoming synonymous with such wheels. These are traditional structures at great occasions of celebration and have been included at many of the great expositions throughout the world. David and Julia were therefore bang on with their idea - they intended it to represent the turning of the century.

The British Airways’ London Eye is the largest of its kind ever to be built. At a height of 135m (450 feet) and 1,600 tons, it is a new London landmark - looking for all the world like a giant bicycle wheel. Positioned at Jubilee Gardens on the South Bank, it is in the dead centre of the city. It was an instant hit. People make special journeys to see the giant Wheel and to be transported high above London. It turns very slowly and, viewed from a distance, might even appear stationary.

It only stops to allow disabled people on board. My wife and I piled into the capsule on the move along with 18 others. Bench seats are positioned in the centre. These proved insufficient, for when I tried to sit down, I discovered a bottom had beaten mine from the other side. No matter - as the Wheel rose our expectation grew and we were soon racing around trying to identify what we could see and snapping everything in sight. The higher it soared, the more celebratory the experience became, as we enjoyed the awe-inspiring views over the heart of the city.

Well-known landmarks and buildings of central London spread out in a great panorama before us. These are not identified in the capsule, but we found it fun to see how many we could identify. Some to look out for are: The Imperial War Museum; The Globe Theatre; The Oval Cricket Ground; The Tate Gallery; Westminster Abbey; The Houses of Parliament; The Tower of London; St. Paul’s Cathedral; The National Portrait Gallery; Buckingham Palace; The British Museum; and The Telecommunications Tower.

Three years of effort went into the project. In recognition of their work, the imaginative design, and the pleasure it gives to millions of people, the couple have been awarded the MBE.

Tickets: Adult £11.50

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Drever on October 7, 2004

London Eye (Millennium Wheel)
Westminster Bridge Road London, England SE1 9TA
+44 (870) 500 0600

Windsor Castle

Experience

The Tower stands guard over the Royal Apartments and chapels
Approaching from the west by bus on our tour of royal castles, Windsor Castle became visible long before the town below came into view. As we walked up from the bus park, its enormous size astonished me. The largest and oldest occupied castle in the world, Windsor covers an area of 13 acres, as well as the palace, a chapel and the homes, and workplaces of many people. Its mighty round tower stands guard over the Royal Apartments and chapels, girded by rugged stonewalls and a medley of turrets.

A castle has stood at Windsor since William the Conqueror chose the site over 900 years ago to guard the western approaches to London. A day's march from the Tower of London, it stands high above the River Thames. In 1666, Samuel Pepys proclaimed the Castle to be "the most romantique castle that is in the world." The same is true today, although on November 20, 1992, a fire damaged or destroyed nine principal rooms and over 100 others - a fifth of the Castle area. In the five years, restoration of some of the best 20th-century architecture contributed to the development of Windsor Castle.

The castle is one of The Queen's official homes. Essential to this role are the State Apartments, which are the formal rooms used for Court ceremonial and state and official occasions. They range from the smaller intimate rooms of Charles II's Apartments to the vast area of the Waterloo Chamber, built to commemorate the victory over Napoleon in 1815. It contains paintings by Sir Thomas Lawrence of all the monarchs, statesmen, and soldiers who played a part in Napoleon’s defeat. The portrait of the Duke of Wellington dominates the 38 paintings.

Annual events at Windsor include the Order of the Garter ceremony held in The Garter Throne Room. It involves the investiture of new Knights of the Garter – Britain’s highest Order of Chivalry. The Queen and the other Knights of the Garter assemble in June for the investitures. Portraits of sovereigns in their Garter robes set into the panelled walls surround the room.

For the past two years, because of rebuilding work, state visits normally held at Buckingham Palace have transferred to Windsor Castle. St George's Hall is the room in which The Queen holds State Banquets and receptions. The Hall was restored following the fire of 1992, and its previous flat ceiling has been replaced by a modern Gothic style with arched Trusses.

The splendid State Apartments contain some of the finest works of art from the Royal Collection, including paintings by Rembrandt, Rubens, Canaletto, Gainsborough, and the famous triple portrait of Charles I by Sir Anthony Van Dyck. The castle has a notable collection of armour – including the last made for Henry VIII.

Among the semi state rooms open to the public are: The King’s Drawing Room, The King’s State Bedchamber, The King’s Dressing Room, The King’s Closet, The Queens Drawing Room, The King’s Dining Room, The Queen’s Ballroom, The Queen’s Audience Chamber, The Queen’s Presence Chamber, and The Queen’s Guard Chamber. These are the finest Georgian interiors in the country.

One of the most popular features of a visit to the Castle is the Queen Mary's Dolls' House, a miniature mansion built in every detail. Created by Sir Edwin Lutyens for Queen Mary, consort of King George V, and built on a scale of 1:12, the house took three years to complete (1921-24). It involved the skills of more than a thousand artists and craftspeople. Each room contains complete furnishing. Working lifts stop at every floor and all five bathrooms have running water.

Within the Castles precincts stands St George's Chapel dedicated to the patron saint of the Order of the Garter. It is one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in England and the resting place of 10 sovereigns, including Henry VIII and his third wife Jane Seymour and Charles I, is the setting for many royal weddings. If you wish to trample over royalty, this is the place, for some of the graves are beneath the floor while others are in private chapels.

The Castle is a pleasure to walk around. The carvings in wood and stone of the ancient craftsmen are exquisite. As you continue through the various wards and terraces, you will have excellent views of the Round Tower, of the various fortifications, and of the surrounding countryside, including Eton and the River Thames.

The Castle of Windsor exudes peace. Queen Elizabeth regards it as her home and Buckingham Palace as the office and it is easy to see why. The palace itself absorbed the sound of the many visitors. St George's Chapel on the other hand has good acoustics as befits its function. It is surprising how the ancient builders knew so much about sound.

Admission: Adult £12

The world famous clock tower attached to the Palace of Westminister
The impervious bulk of the Palace of Westminster stands alongside the River Thames seemingly immutable and timeless. Within it are contained The Houses of Parliament. At its north end is one of the world’s most recognisable landmarks, Big Ben. The Clock Tower has become the symbol for durability, decently, and democracy - the hallmarks of British government.

During the summer months, the Houses of Parliament are open to visitors. Being curious about this place that frequently appears on my TV screen and wondering how my Member of Parliament (MP) spent his time, I was there to see for myself.

At Westminster alongside the River Thames, there has been a royal palace for nearly 1,000 years. However, because of a fire in 1834, most of the present buildings dates from the mid-19th-century and are built in the perpendicular gothic style. One of the oldest parts, Westminster Hall, dates from 1097. Its main feature is its massive hammer beam roof with its carved angels. For many years, the Royal Courts of Justice met in the Hall and the trials of Guy Fawkes, of gunpowder fame; King Charles I; and William Wallace (Brave Heart) took place here - all were executed.

The hub of the Palace of Westminster is the Central Lobby where people come to lobby their MPs. Archways lead of to the House of Lords and the House of Commons, their galleries, and the Lower Waiting Hall. The vast octagon of the Central Lobby is rich in symbolism. Its vaulted stone roof is decorated with mosaics. Designs include the English Rose, the Scottish Thistle, the Welsh Harp, and the Portcullis - emblem of Parliament. Over the four archways are panels depicting the patron saints, St. George for England, St. David for Wales, St. Andrew for Scotland, and St. Patrick for Ireland. Four large statues of 19th-century statesmen gaze upon proceedings and ponder.

The United Kingdom parliament has developed over hundreds of years from the group of nobles that once advised the King to the present-day Parliament of the Monarch, House of Lords, and House of Commons. Parliament has taken over many of the powers previously exercised by the Monarch, but the Queen still has formal duties governed by convention.

The Palace’s three areas reflect the three parts of Parliament: the Royal Apartments, the House of Lords, and the House of Commons. MPs hold most of their debates in the House of Commons Chamber. The House of Commons was rebuilt after World War II due to bomb damage. Its style is simplified gothic in light coloured oak. Members sit on rows of benches down each side. The Speaker, who controls proceedings, has a raised chair at one end.

Winston Churchill had the strange idea that the number of seats in the rebuilt Chamber should be less than the number of members to make it appear busier than it is. Certainly the smallness of the Chamber surprised me for it seems much larger when viewed on TV. Because every "bottom" doesn’t have a seat, modern push button voting is impossible. Instead, the members file out into the "Ayes" lobby and the "No" lobby. In fact, the system works well and there is no hiding the way MPs vote. A warning bell sounds in those areas where MPs might be when a vote is due. This includes two nearby pubs - says it all!

The House of Lords resembles the House of Commons, but is richer in tone. The Lords first occupied the chamber in 1857. The Builder magazine enthused that "the whole glitters with colours and gilding – carvings in stone, stained glass, encaustic tiles, and fine work in metal." Here the benches are in red while in the Commons they are green. At one end of the Chamber is the Throne from which the Queen opens each session of parliament.

The House of Commons has 659 MPs who each represent a geographical part of the country called a constituency. The House of Lords has around 700 Members, mostly appointed for life by the Prime Minister (life peers), for their knowledge and experience in a particular field.

Parliament checks that the government is running the country properly and approves new laws before they come into force. The Queen asks the leader of the political party with the most MPs in the House of Commons to become Prime Minister and form a government to manage the country. As the last election Tony Blair of the Labour Party received the request. The leader of the next largest party becomes the leader of the opposition.

Interestingly, the two sides of the chamber are exactly two swords apart. A necessary precaution in the early days for members routinely wore swords. In many ways, expert use of a tongue can be more wounding than a rapier thrust and Tony Blair’s defense seems to be never to answer the question put to him by Michael Howard, leader of the Conservative opposition, but merely to point to the record of the Conservatives when in power – apparently it was worse?

Admission: free

About the Writer

Drever
Drever
Ayr

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