Christmas in Oaxaca

In December there is a fiesta almost every day.>BR>
16 December - 24 December: Every evening posadas
23 December: Night of the Radishes
24 December: Procession of floats

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Dressed in a long, blue robe, her dark hair shining in the moonlight, the little girl is seated proudly on a grey donkey. A boy with a painted moustache and beard, crook in hand, wrapped in a brown woolen cloak is solemnly walking beside her. Dancing lights behind them: lighted candles shining in the dark.

Mary and Joseph on their way to the inn. I can hear them singing. They stop before a closed door. They chant a song and plead for admittance. It's refused. They sing again. Once the master of the house realises who his guests are he jubilantly throws open the door and bids them welcome. All kneel around the manger in adoration.



Every evening for 9 days, starting 16 December you will see these processions in the streets of Oaxaca.

They are hanging from the ceilings, from trees they are omnipresent these brightly coloured star-shaped contraptions.

It's an earthenware container, filled with sweets and toys. One by one the children are blindfolded and try to break the piñata with a stick. When it is finally torn open there is an explosion of sweets and a scattering of children.

On Christmas eve, at midnight, the birth of Christ is announced with fireworks, ringing of bells and blowing of whistles. People flock to the'misa gallo', After this mass of the rooster all return home to a tasty meal.

On Christmas Day the children are given toys and sweets. For breakfast there is a special bread filled with tiny images of the child Jezus. Whoever finds the little Jezus will host the last party of the Christmas season, which may be as late as early February.

On the days approaching Christmas the zocalo becomes more animated. Every day the central square seems to become fuller: more balloon vendors, more traditional food stalls, more arts and craft stands, more pottery displayed on the pavement.

Droves of people slowly mill around the square. Some sit down on the long wooden benches and order hot chocolate and buñeulos, deep fried, sweet tortillas, served in earthenware bowls, which are thrown backwards across your shoulder smashed into smithereens

All day the contestants are setting up wooden tables. Preparations are in full swing. Big boxes are opened to reveal pink and white masterpieces, depicting nativity scenes complete with Joseph and Mary the donkey, the three wise men, painstakingly carved.

Judges mingle with the crowd. Prizes are awarded, sculptures go back into their boxes. Everyone wanders off for dinner or samples the fares of the various vendors who have set up shop. Suddenly hundreds of bright, coloured lights in the air, the fireworks display to end the evening.

People start lining the street to the Zocalo early, waiting for the procession of floats. Each church community has its own company: candle bearers and a more or less, sometimes less than more, professional band. They accompany the manger scene: Mary Joseph, boy shepherds, little girl angels complete with halo.

A hail of sweets, the crowd rushes forward. The angels and shepherds throw more sweets. The three wise men mingle with the crowd with their antics.

Christmas Day is eerily quiet after all the festivities of the previous days. Cafés open late, the balloon men with their brightly coloured crocodiles, Snowhites, reindeer, Santas have vanished. Slowly people come back to the Zocalo. A lone vendor spreads out his merchandise: Queer looking dolls, ponchos, pottery.