Naples Journals

Weekend in Napoli

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A May 2004 trip to Naples by JulieHolm

Naples Streets Photo, Naples, Italy More Photos
Quote: Hot pizza, ancient ruins, rich wines, warm sea breezes, tasty gelato, and family history were highlights of our weekend in Naples. We'd picked Napoli for my family's connection (grandfather born here). We visited an incredible chapel, a fantastic museum, my family's little hometown, and Pompeii.

Weekend in Napoli

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Overview

Naples Streets Photo, Naples, Italy
Quote:
The archaeological museum is fantastic, has great stuff. It's good to go there before Pompeii, as it has much of the art that once hung there. The house of the faun means so much more when you have seen the mosaic that was on the wall. The capelle Sansevero is wonderful if interesting statuary is your thing.Quick Tips: The Archeological Museum has a secret cabinet you can ask about when coming in. It has erotic art and is very interesting. The central area is very interesting, the old town, but people do warn you to watch your things. Theft has been an issue in this town, although recent crackdowns on thieves may have changed that somewhat. We had no trouble. Get the ARte Card (detail...Read More
Mergellina Youth Hostel, Hostelling International Photo, Naples, Italy
Quote:
Ostello Mergellina is a clean and well-run Hostelling International Hostel in a suburb of Naples called Mergellina. It's near the waterfront on the west side of Naples. The hostel is very accessible to backpackers as it is just up a hill from the train station in Mergellina. Note that you exit the train station, turn right, turn right again, go under the underpass and turn right into the road that will bend up to the hostel. Yes, if you could walk through the tracks you would halve the distance, but you cannot. You pass a little nightclub on the way up, which is built into the side of the hill, very interesting. We had a room on the front of the hostel, but were never bothered by noise. ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on September 24, 2004

Mergellina Youth Hostel, Hostelling International
Salita della Grotta a Piedigrotta 2
Naples, Italy
(081) 761-2346

Trattoria Pizzeria de Pasqualino.

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Restaurant

Trattoria Pizzeria de Pasqualino. Photo, Naples, Italy
Quote:
I checked the guides for a place for dinner, and settled on the Trattoria Pizzeria de Pasqualino. It was great. The book says 18 euro per person for dinner, but for a total of 30 euro, including a small tip, we got a bottle of Lacrima Christi (yummy fruity red wine.) I ate a vegetable antipasto platter with sun dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, some kind of greens, grilled eggplant, grilled zucchini, all drenched in garlicky olive oil. Mark had proschiutto with fresh mozzarella. For a pasta dish I had spaghetti pomadoro, and Mark had Farfalle with a salmon sauce. Everything was good. We did not need a further main course. The menu allows for a full Italian meal, with appetizer, pasta course, ma...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on September 24, 2004

Trattoria Pizzeria de Pasqualino.
Piazza Sannazzaro 77-79
Naples, Italy
+39 081 681524

Trianon

Restaurant

Quote:
Our last evening in Napoli, we went to a Pizzeria named Trianon. It's located in the center of Naples, and is in many guidebooks as one of the great purveyors of true Neapolitan pizza. We were welcomed by a German woman we had met in Pompeii, and we decided to dine together. We had a Margherita Doc pizza (Buffalo Mozzarella and fresh cherry tomatoes, sliced in half, and a Margherita con Fungi pizza, which had sauce, Mozzarella and mushrooms. We also drank a couple of half bottles of red Lachrima Christi wine, which was lovely. The pizzaria is simple, with tile/brick ovens on each floor. The pizza is the best I have ever had, thin in the center, thicker at the end, brick oven crisp. The buff...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 5, 2004

Trianon
Via Pietro Colletta, 42/46
Naples, Italy 80139
+39 0815539426

Museo Cappella San Severo

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Attraction | "Museo Cappella Sansevero"

Quote:
This chapel in the old section of Naples houses some fascinating statuary. It used to be a church, but is quite clearly now a museum, with an entrance fee of a few Euro. Getting to the chapel is part of the fun; you walk through the streets of Naples where people live, where you see grocers with their produce out on the street, kids going by on scooters and skateboards, women hanging wash from 10th floor clotheslines, which run from building to building over the street. There is public art and statuary around the neighborhood, and several interesting other churches nearby including the Duomo. Capelle Sansevero can be a tad difficult to find. We found Rick Steve's map and ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 24, 2004

Museo Cappella San Severo
Via Francesco De Sanctis, 19
Naples, Italy

National Archaeological Museum of Naples ( Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli)

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Attraction | "Museo Archeologico Nazionale"

National Archaeological Museum of Naples (	Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli) Photo, Naples, Italy
Quote:
This museum is hard to define. While I called it a Cultural Museum, it is also a History Museum and an Art Museum for Ancient Art. This is Naples' big world-class museum. Its collection of ancient art is unparalleled. Upon entry you can visit a great collection of Roman artwork, possibly the best in the world, save that of the Vatican. At its core is the Farnese Collection, which contains some amazing art which was excavated from the Baths of Caracolla in Rome. Indeed some of this sculpture was excavated while Michelangelo was working on the Sistine Chapel in Rome, and he commented on it in letters home to Florence. If you spend some time looking at the Farnese Hercules, make sure, ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on September 28, 2004

National Archaeological Museum of Naples ( Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli)
Piazza Museo Nazionale, 19
Naples, Italy 80135
+39 081440166

Ancient City of Pompeii (Pompeii Scavi)

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Attraction | "Ancient City of Pompeii"

Ancient City of Pompeii (Pompeii Scavi) Photo, Pompeii, Italy
Quote:
Catch the Circumvesuviana train, on the lower level of the main train station in Naples. This is reputedly a place where pickpocketing is likely, so be careful. It took about a half hour to get to Pompeii Scavi on the train, which stopped at every stop along the way. We arrived in Pompeii and entered using our Art Card. Be careful to ge in the right line if you have the card, it's the GROUP line.I think the regular entrance fee was 14 or so Euro. If you don't have the Arte Card, go in the regular line.Pompeii disappeared on August 24, 79 AD when Mt. Vesuvius erupted and spewed hot rocks and mostly ash all over the coast of the gulf of N...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on September 30, 2004

Ancient City of Pompeii (Pompeii Scavi)
Pompeii
Naples, Italy

The Town of Solofra

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Story/Tip

City of Solofra Photo, Naples, Italy
Quote:
If you are heading for Italy and you just stay in the big cities (Rome, Naples, Florence, Milan, Venice) and the touristy places, you will miss a lot. Visit a small town if you can. We visited the city of Solofra, because my grandfather's parents had met there, and his "Uncle Canon" Carmine Troisi was one of the town's "Illuminati." We had a troublesome train trip there, missing connections and all, but were helped greatly by the conductors (who all wear green jackets.) We rode the train through the most beautiful and fascinating mountain geography. When I get home I will have research it a bit. The mountains were unlike any I had ever seen, lush, but sharply folded. In th...Read More

San Michele Church, Solofra

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Story/Tip

Church Facade Photo, Naples, Italy
Quote:
We entered the church quietly because some kind of event to pray for world peace was going on. I wanted pictures, but was hesitant to take them in a church that was being actively used at the time. A few people were praying and saying the rosary, there was a priest saying confessions in the reconciliation chapel. I asked Mark to take picture with the digital camera, because he can do so without making any noise, whereas mine makes a pronounced click. The church is beautiful. You enter through beautifully carved wooden doors, past all the informational things on modern racks and posted. This church does not have an entry way or Narthex you enter directly into the Sanctuary. The main altar is old...Read More