FLORENCE

1. Oltrarno area/Santo Spirito--south of the river has a whole different vibe!

2. Shopping at the Mercato Centrale for fresh meats, cheeses, and produce is a truly Italian experience, and a feast for the senses.

3. Touring the Uffizi Gallery was wonderful! It is one of the must-see destinations in Florence, along with the Accademia and Santa Croce church.

4. Fiesole (a hill town with a breathtaking view down at Florence) was magical. Be sure and visit the Etruscan museum and ampitheatre, too.

5. Boboli Gardens was also wonderful, be prepared for lots of walking.

6. Getting to know my local bar and tabbachi owners, walking around and soaking up the everyday life were most memorable.

7. Going to Vivoli was a truly milestone experience in my love affair with GELATO. My boyfriend, who is Italian and lives in Florence, assures me that locals and tourists alike are correct in crowning it the best gelato in the city.

Quick Tips:

1. There are some wonderful churches all over the place. DON'T MISS Santa Croce. If you are planning on visiting churches, remember not to wear shorts that day.

2. Gloves make great souvenirs, and for very high quality you can go to Madova (glove heaven) and get a pair of gorgeous cashmere lined leather gloves for about . Walk over the Ponte Vecchio and head straight towards the Pitti Palace, it's on the left.

4. LADIES: Do not miss the Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. Famous for their almond hand cream, they also have terrific soaps, sachets, etc. This used to be a convent and doesn't really look like a store from the street. Your best bet: splurge on a taxi (only about from the Duomo) and ask for VIA DELLA SCALA 16.

5. A great restaurant in the Oltrarno area is BORDINO, Via Stracciatella 9/r. If you go at lunch, you can get a wonderful lunch of soup/salad plus pasta for only 10,000 --OR-- a steak and salad for 15,000. We often go there, food is great and CHEAP!!

Best Way To Get Around:

Florence is very easy to walk around in, & there are tourist maps available everywhere. If you get lost, the people are more than happy to assist you, usually. Look out for scooters and bikes! If you get exhausted, spring for a taxi--they are not that expensive if you are staying near the city center.

The first time I visited Florence, we stayed here as part of a tour. The room was spartan and small with a view overlooking a courtyard (but at least it was quiet). They have rooms overlooking the river as well. The best thing about this hotel is LOCATION. It''s right on the river, about five minutes walk to Santa Croce. There are lots of restaurants and stores nearby. The hotel has a garage, bar, and TVs and phones in the room.

I would stay here again if I needed a hotel in Florence. However, if you will be in Florence for at least a week, I highly recommend renting an apartment. It''s much cheaper and more convenient. You can find lots of websites devoted to this, such as this one or this one.

This restaurant is located in the Oltrarno area. If you cross the Ponte Vecchio and head right, it's about 2-3 blocks down, on the left.

They had excellent local dishes, including steaks, pastas and salads. The staff spoke English and seemed used to catering to American tourists. I was there at lunch so I'm not sure if reservations are needed at dinner. This is a decent, inexpensive trattoria that I would visit again.

I used to really love and recommend this restaurant. I fell in love with their grilled pork chops and house brand olive oil on my very first trip to Florence. HOWEVER, now I have discovered that the management of the trattoria has changed and I, for one, will not be returning. On my most recent visit, I went back to my favorite haunt and the menu was completely different, the service was distinctly lacking, and the food was not as tasty. For what they are charging, there are several better restaurants close by (like the Osteria di Pazzi). Plus, they no longer sell the great olive oil in the funky bottles. Overall, I cannot recommend this place unless you are desperate. Sorry :(

Bordino is a restaurant that my boyfriend and I often visit for lunch or dinner. It is located across the Ponte Vecchio and a couple of streets back to the left. Reservations might be suggested for dinner, but we've never had trouble at lunch. The prices at Bordino are great! You can get a steak and salad lunch for 15,000L. They speak English, and have a pretty good menu selection at dinner. I recommend the tornados (steak cubes topped with peppercorn gravy--to die for!!) or the lentils (which look and taste just like good ol' fashioned soup beans). They don't have ice here, sadly. They do have limited seating outside in season.

This restaurant is located right on the south side of the Arno. They have a wonderful view of the Ponte Vecchio. Be sure to ask for a table with a view. In the summer, they have a panoramic terrace which is great for taking pictures from.

The menu is typical Tuscan cuisine, and they had a wide range of seafood, steaks, veal, pasta, and the like. The "shrimp cocktail" was interesting--instead of shrimp with cocktail sauce, it was small shrimp smothered in thousand island dressing on a bed of lettuce. But it was actually quite good! They have a good wine list and a large dessert selection here. If you cross the Ponte Vecchio and take an immediate left, it's at the end of the block. There is also a taxi stand right outside, in case you eat so much you can't walk home.

This restaurant is a favorite of tourists and locals alike. My boyfriend eats lunch there at least once a week. They have a menu turistico which has several choice for 10,000L, 15,000L or 20,000L.

They have a spicy spaghetti dish that is out of this world!! I highly recommend that. The name of this restaurant means "inn of the insane," and the proprietor definitely lives up to the name. He's a really friendly guy who speaks English (somewhat) and moves from table to table, entertaining tourists and insulting the regulars, who love it. It's a fun, boisterous atmosphere with great food at great prices. They also sell cool bottles of wine with pictures of Mussolini, Che Gueverra, etc. on the labels. A cool souvenir for $10. They also have ice here--hooray!

This is a typical "bar" where you can pop in to get your morning coffee. Or hot chocolate con panna (with cream) if you prefer. They have all manner of pastries, cookies and the like to complete your breakfast. Locals frequent this place along with tourists.

Place your order with one of the charming countermen, and either enjoy your coffee the Italian way (standing at the bar) or pay the extra $1 to sit down at a table, inside or out. After you finish, pay at the counter. At lunchtime, you can get pizza by the slice, sandwiches, etc. I recommend the pollo e patate arrosto (roasted chicken and potatoes). This type bar is the most common equivalent of "fast food" in Italy. They also sell gum, bottled drinks, and snacks.

Bars like this are found EVERYWHERE in Florence, and it's fun to find one you like and pop in once a day for a coffee or snack. I recommend this one because all the staff is very friendly, service is quick and the coffee is great. Across the Ponte Vecchio, turn right and go about 3/4 block. There is also an internet access place right across the street to check your e-mail.

I enjoyed Mamma Gina's Trattoria during dinner, and reservations were required. This is a nice, candlelit "formal" restaurant, frequented mainly by tourists. They have an extensive wine list and the usual Tuscan menu. They speak English, and offer ice for we Yankees. ~~~~ Try the pappa al pomodoro, a soup made with tomatoes, onions, bread and olive oil. Sounds nasty but it's EXCELLENT!! I also had the veal with asparagus and some Kahlua ice cream for dessert. Molto buono!!

In my opinion, the top attraction in all of Florence is found at the Accademia. Every visitor to the city should try to view Michelangelo's David. It is truly an awe-inspiring, nearly religious experience. It's amazing that David was kept outside until the late 1800s, when they realized he was being damaged by the weather! Then this museum became his home. ~~~~

There are lots of other great artworks to see here as well. Don't miss Michelangelo's prisoners, unfinished sculptures whose figures Michelangelo believed he was "freeing" from the stone, thus the name. The original plaster of The Rape of the Sabine Women is also here. ~~~~

The Accademia is closed on Mondays, and I believe you need a reservation to buy tickets. However, check with your concierge or call 2388609 to confirm this.

The Duomo, Campanile, and Baptistery are close enough together to explore all in one morning. The Duomo, with its famous terracotta tiles, is extremely massive up close. It sits atop the church of Santa Maria del Fiori. The dome was not added until the 15th century, 200 years after the church was built. Brunelleschi famously designed the dome to be built without scaffolding. Climb to the top for some awesome Kodak moments! ~~~~

The Campanile di Giotto is constructed of the same really cool green, pink, and white marble as the base of the duomo. If you look closely at the tower's panels, there are carvings of such things as the 5 liberal arts, the 7 planets, the 7 sacraments, and so on. ~~~~

The Battistero is shaped like an octagon, and is most famous for the bronze door panels. The east doors are the ones Michelangelo called "the gates of paradise." Inside, there are lots of beautiful artwork, including the disturbing Last Judgment. ~~~~ There is a slight charge to climb/enter all 3 attractions.

The Boboli Gardens is one of the few green spots in Florence. The Medici created it after moving to the Palazzo Pitti in 1550. ~~~~

Some of the highlights are the Vittolone, a cypress tree lane on the way to the Isolotto. The isolotto is an island in the middle of a pond, with a walkway all around containing some interesting statues. ~~~~ I also like the statue of Bacchus riding a tortoise, located near the exit. There are some great views from the cafe located inside the gardens as well. ~~~~

There is a very small charge to tour the park, and be prepared to walk up some steep gravel inclines.

This is where the Medicis lived until they moved to the Palazzo Vecchio in 1540. The building itself is not spectacular, except for the chapel, which contains frescoes of the Journey of the Magi. They have also found graffiti in the building that they believe to be from Michelangelo. The courtyard is beautiful. It contains some wonderful statues and plants, very refreshing after viewing the dark interiors.

This large piazza is located just outside the Palazzo Vecchio, near the Uffizi. Several interesting sculptures and statues decorate the area. The large Nettuno, or Neptune, stands close to the marker showing where Savonarola was burned for being a heretic. ~~~~

There is a copy of the David, and a wonderful statue of Perseo (Perseus holding Medusa's head) stands near the loggia. The loggia contains several sculptures, including the Rape of the Sabine Women. In March 2001, several areas in the loggia were cordoned off for restoration. ~~~~ In the middle of the piazza, the equestrian statue is of Cosimo I. ~~~~ The Piazza della Signoria is often quite crowded and it pays to watch your wallet here. There are several cafes on the edge of the square where you can eat lunch or just enjoy a cappuccino or glass of wine while people-watching.

The house where Dante lived is a rather simple 3-story structure. The entrance fee is small (around $5) and you can wander around inside for as long as you like. There are exhibits relating to life in the 13th century in Florence, and other rooms dedicated to Dante's Inferno and other works. ~~~~

One of the more interesting artifacts is a petition seeking to allow Dante's remains to be moved to Florence. (Dante is buried in Ravenna due to his exile; the tomb bearing his name in Santa Croce is empty.) One of the signatures on the petition is that of Michelangelo. ~~~~

Just outside the house, on the other side of the alley is the church where Dante's family worshipped. Just down from it is the Church of Santa Margherita where Beatrice (Dante's muse) attended mass. There are several beautiful paintings here, and the church has the typical Italian feature of requiring 100 lire be placed in a machine before lights illuminate the walls. Beatrice's tomb is located here as well. Apparently Dante saw her nearly every day and she inspired his writing, but they both married other people. ~~~~

Santa Croce is, in my opinion, the most beautiful and interesting church in Florence. It has been called the "Westminster Abbey" of Italy. The large sanctuary contains the graves of many famous Italians, including Rossini, Machiavelli, and Galileo (who was not allowed a Christian burial until almost 100 years after death!), along with Dante's empty memorial. ~~~~

There are some beautiful artworks in the church, including frescoes explaining the holy cross (for which "Santa Croce" was named). The church is a Franciscan one, and there are paintings dedicated to St. Francis as well. You can also see the high-water mark of the 1966 flood on many of the columns in the chapel. It did extensive damage to the building. ~~~~

After viewing the sanctuary area, if you go to the right of the pulpit, through the door and into the connected building, you can look around in the leather school. Some of the city's best quality leather pieces can be found here. They have inexpensive souvenir pieces, in addition to the more costly jackets and purses. On Sundays you must enter through the garden.

The church also has a small gift shop with religious items in addition to the usual posters, books, and postcards. ~~~~ If you can only see a few attractions in Florence, I highly recommend you make one of them Santa Croce. It can easily be seen in half an hour, and is definitely a must see. Remember not to wear shorts inside the church.

This church is located very close to the train station, in the northern part of the Centro. It was completed in 1357, having been built by Dominican monks. ~~~~ Inside the church, there are some great examples of art, including the Trinita (on the left in the sanctuary) and a Last Judgment behind the altar. ~~~~ The little park outside the church is a place to hang out, catch some rays, and just relax. If you're in the neighborhood, be sure to visit the Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella at Via della Scala 16 and the Mercato Centrale.

The Uffizi is one of the top 3 or 4 things you should take time to see while in Florence. This art museum contains some of the priceless collections of the Medici. ~~~~ Try to come very early in the morning or have a reservation in order to avoid waiting in line (which can be ridiculously long by 10 am). I arrived at 7:45 on a morning in March (the museum opens at 8:30) and was third or fourth in line. Also be aware the museum is closed on Mondays. ~~~~ You can rent a self-guided walkman in several languages, to steer you through the museum. Be prepared to leave an I.D. as collateral. ~~~~ All of the art inside is wonderful, from sculptures to paintings. Of course, Botticelli's Birth of Venus is here, and the very sexy Medici Venus sculpture. ~~~~ Try to visit the cafe on the top floor. You can take pictures of the Piazza della Signoria from here, and the view is superb. They also REALLY enforce the "no flash photography" rule inside the museum so be prepared to be yelled at if you forget. ~~~~ On your way out, look at the little statues in the Uffizi courtyard. They are built into little nooks, and some of them are really cool, especially at night.

The Palazzo Vecchio has served as Florence's town hall since it was built in the 1300s. It became known as the "Old Palace" when Cosimo I moved his headquarters across the river to the Pitti Palace. ~~~~ The exterior of the building is notable for its bell tower and fort-like construction. Inside, the decorations are just as one would expect: lavish and on a grand scale. ~~~~ The Salone dei Cinquecento is a HUGE room decorated with military paintings showing Florence winning battles with Pisa. There are also sculptures featuring the labors of Hercules and Vittoria by Michelangelo. You might recognize this room as the site of a murder in Hannibal. ~~~~ One of the most interesting areas is the Sala della Carte, the Map Room. It features renderings of the world as it was known in the 1500s. ~~~~ The Palazzo Vecchio is closed on Thursdays.

Piazza Santo Spirito, in the area south of the river called the Oltrarno, is one of the more laid-back areas of Florence. The Piazza itself is a popular spot for musicians and artists to gather, along with a more bohemian crowd. There are several restaurants, gelaterias, stores, and an open-air market in the mornings. ~~~~

The church of Santo Spirito is regarded by many as the most beautiful church interior in town. There is no admission charge to view the sanctuary with its beautiful artwork. There is a beautiful version of Madonna and Child here.

The Ponte Vecchio is one of the most unusual and romantic bridges in the world. It has stayed in place since being rebuilt in 1345, and amazingly withstood the flood of 1966. There is a "secret passageway" running above the stores, connecting the Uffizi and the Palazzo Pitti (built for the Medici). ~~~~ History aside, the shops that line the sides of the bridge sell overpriced jewelry, and it's a prime hangout for pickpockets. But, crossing the Ponte Vecchio is something every visitor should do. ~~~~ The Ponte Vecchio is a great spot for people-watching, or taking pictures of the river. It's also fun to window shop, but you can find much better deals on jewelry around the Santa Croce area. ~~~~ At night, the bridge can be a bit unseemly, with the stores shuttered and all kinds of weirdos hanging about. Vendors spread out their prints and sunglasses in hopes of making some money. Just be cautious here at night.

If possible, try to plan your trip during the off-season. Fall (September to November) and Spring (February to May) are great times to visit. If you go in the summer, the streets are so crowded with tourists it can easily make the trip miserable. It is also extremely hot and humid during summers there. Plus, in August lots of businesses are closed. Plan for a spring or fall trip, save some money on airfare, and try to spend at least 3 or 4 days here! ~~~~ Bring: a travel umbrella, comfortable walking shoes, a sense of adventure, and your camera! ~~~~ Don't bring: traveler's checks. They are a hassle and stores sometimes either don't like to take them or won't. I suggest using lire and your credit cards--you get a terrific exchange rate. ~~~~ Make a copy of the front and back of each card and hide it in your luggage along with a photocopy of your passport. If the gypsies get you, at least you will have the numbers to call and report stolen cards! ~~~~ ATM's are numerous in Florence; I have never had trouble finding a compatible one that uses my same PIN number. They include directions in English. Check with your bank before you leave to inquire about whether you need a different PIN number and how much they charge for ATM usage overseas. This way of getting cash is a much better deal than going to a Cambio.