Fascinating, Mysterious Turkey. Cappadocia, Konya

Cappadocia, a magical experience. Volcanic eruptions covered this region in deep layers of ash and mud. The ash and mud solidified into tufta, turning the whole area into a land of "fairy chimneys."

Located in central Anatolia, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Turkey. Every village has cave dwellings, some still inhabited, but many have been turned into hotels and B&B accommodations.

This bizarre landscape boggles the mind and eyes. Many of the sites are ideal for exploring on foot; if you are lucky, some of the locals may offer you a lift on their donkey and cart.

Nevsehir is the largest town (we stayed on the outskirts). It is not very scenic. My favorite was Mustafapasa, near the beautiful Gomede valley. It has cave churches and Greek and Secuk architecture. Since the Greek/Turkish exchanges in 1923, many of the Greek homes remained empty. They are well worth seeing.

Another interesting town was Ortahisar nestled beneath a 240-foot rock honeycombed with cave dwellings. You can explore these former dwellings for a small fee. All are now abandoned mostly for safety reasons. It is a strange landscape, inspiring awe and a certain amount of spiritual thought. Almost like it is nature’s gift to man. The unique cream-coloured tufta honey - combed by several thousand years of caverns - gave shelter long before the Christians utilized them.

People are friendly and speak English but a Tay Kay shur edereem (thank you) will be appreciated. There are many cafes and local eating places. You will receive a warm welcome. Turkish cuisine is wonderful and servings are generous. We never paid more than for a three-course meal. The beer was good but we found the wine pretty bad.

Visit the open air museum in Goreme filled with secret churches, and entire underground cities where early Christians sought shelter and protection from marauding Arabs and Romans. At times, up to 20,000 people lived there.

We also enjoyed visits to a pottery and a carpet factory in Avanos

Konya, is best known for its monastery and resting place of the founder of the sect the whirling dervishes. Its theological school is also interesting. It is the most fundamentalist of Turkish cities; therefore, appropriate clothing must be worn.

One of the highlights of our visit here was the whirling Dervish ceremony held in a restored caravanserai - it was very enlightening

Quick Tips:

Wear appropriate footwear. There is a lot of climbing and stooping involved. A level of agility and physical fitness is required.

Stock up on water and wear a hat if you visit in the warm months.

There is a café selling snacks, souvenirs, and drinks. There are also washrooms close to the parking lot.

The site is open from 8:30am until 6pm; admission is and less for students with ID. Try to get there before the tour buses.

Take your camera. A roving photographer will snap photographs but they are not very good, and they cost for a five by seven print. Try to see a Dervish ceremony - your hotel can arrange it. Cost for the ceremony is per person. Hotels in the area provide tours, either full-day or half-day, which encompass all the popular sites. The full day tours include lunch. Also, hotels will provide brochures for balloon rides over Cappadocia; very popular.

Best Way To Get Around:

The tourist office can provide you with a timetable for the Dolmus transport (minivans). Getting around in Cappadocia requires either own car, a rental bicycle, or a taxi. There are daily flights from Istanbul to Kayseri (100km; it takes one hour and fifteen minutes and there is bus service from there to Göreme).

There are three bus companies: Nevtur, Göreme Tur, and Kapadokya. It takes ten hours by bus from Istanbul to Göreme.

A direct bus service is available from most cities to Göreme and Nevsehir. From Nevsehir, buses to Avanos, Göreme, or Urgup Uchisar require no extra charge.

When purchasing tickets, be sure to tell them your specific destination in case you are on the wrong route. The mentioned towns and villages are the ones that encompass Cappadoccia and the main areas of interest. Cycling is becoming very popular as a means of transport, however, I do not have specific rental information.

In keeping with the landscape, Peri tower hotel was built to enhance the concept of "Fairy Chimneys". Pink chimney architecture reminded me of a Walt Disney theme.

Located on a slight hill, it is very impressive from the highway. The huge mound of pink looks majestic in the sunset, ablaze in color and mystery.

The sweeping driveway leads to glass doors and into a large modern lobby. Spacious and as impressive as the façade.

I am not sure how many floors there were, but all the levels are open to give the effect of space. From our hallway we could look down over the lobby and the various bars and shops.{ I bought a beautiful Pashmina in one of them for $20} The large, wrap-around seating area from the left side of reception leads seamlessly to other seating areas.

The hotel has a pool; health club; sauna; Turkish bath with massages; tennis; video game room; and three or four bars, restaurants, and boutique shops.

Our room overlooked the well-tended garden. The room itself was large with a floor-to-ceiling window and a small balcony. There are two twin beds (slightly wider than twin) and a large, tiled bathroom in a honey-colored shade, plus a robe, slippers, and various toiletries. It has satellite TV, air conditioning, and a mini-bar. Breakfast was included in our room price. It was a buffet with everything one could ask for. I loved the breads, yogurts, and even the strong, sweet Turkish coffee.

There was a small residential housing estate a short walk from the hotel also, a school. We also saw men playing cards and talking in groups. Further down towards the road, we noticed some cave houses, some inhabited, some empty. One beautiful house was very modern and used the cave as the garage. There is not very much to see around the hotel apart from the houses.

It was so quiet when we walked early in the morning and at end of the evening, not a sound could be heard. I didn’t hear the muezzins cry at 5am.

The majority of guests were business types and tour groups. The staff was very nice some spoke English. Those that didn’t always managed to find someone on the staff to assist.

A wonderful luxurious place to unwind after a day of climbing and exploring with a very good masseuse to iron out the kinks. Double room runs about $95 - it worth every cent.

The valley of Göreme in the kingdom of Cappadocia is home to the Goreme Acik Hava Muzesi (open-air museum). Many of these caves have not been explored; the ones that have are intriguing.

It is easy to imagine this place in ancient times, long before the Christians arrived. They hid and lived in this former monastic community of 30 plus churches (9th to 12th century), some of them illustrated with beautiful frescoes.

Saint Basil organized communal monasticism. He was a strict ascetic and came in search of solitude. Soon his followers arrived and a pattern of meditation and communal work took hold.

Left of the entrance as you enter from the parking lot is a six-story convent.It contains a kitchen, refectory, and, on the third floor, a cross-shaped chapel and cells of the nuns connected by tunnels. Large round stones remain there ready to block the passage in times of danger. We saw these huge millstones many times during our visits and in the underground caves as well.

In the Sandal church (all the churches are named for objects found there), the footprints are said to be those of Christ. There is also a wonderful fresco of Judas’ betrayal.

Another interesting chapel was the Dragon church, which has a serpent fresco and a fresco of St. Onuphurius (Never heard of her), who was said to be so beautiful that men constantly pursued her. They say she asked God for help and that her prayers were answered. She was given a beard and moustache (no neet in those days’ girls)!

Several saints adorn two sections, one domed the other flat-roofed, that are accessible from a kitchen, then through a very narrow passage. Frescoes of St. Thomas and St. Basil appear beside a half-male, half-female figure, I am not sure of the meaning. After listening to our guide interpret so many paintings, they were beginning to blur, and, at that point, I had given up on my notes. Plus, it was almost time for lunch.

I didn’t describe all the churches. I know I can’t do it in 500 words, but in order to make the most of your time here, come prepared to climb, stoop, and crawl, then make some time to find a quiet spot to enjoy the lovely and unusual landscape - it is unforgettable.

Nearby are the villages of Urgup and Nevishir Located in a canyon beneath cliffs, they are riddled with cave dwellings.

Urgup is the main tourist center, there are many guides for hire. The guides charge from $80 per day and speak fluent English, have vast knowledge,and know the area well.They can be contacted through the tourist office. It is a unique and pleasant village - cobbled streets lined with charming houses and a small commercial center. Many tour groups seek accommodation there.

Facilities at the open-air museum include: a café, washrooms, and a souvenir shop with postcards, books. This museum alone warrants a trip to Turkey. Cost of admission is US$5.

It is dark in this vaulted marble hall. A caravanserai restored to the splendor it might have been when it first opened in 1229. There are already many people seated on these ancient marble steps, but you could hear a pin drop. We are awaiting the beautiful sema ritual, the ceremony of these Sufi mystics.

Every gesture in this ritualistic dance is a symbol toward attaining the ultimate union with God. The conical hat represents a tombstone. The jacket, the tomb. The skirt, the shroud. The right side of the room represents the known world, the left side, the unknown.

The whirling motion is the symbol of the rotation of the universe. The leading dervish is the one who directs the others; they follow his feet pattern and his head gestures.

Each whirling consists of three stages.
The first: Knowledge of Gods existence.

Second: The rapture of man seeing God.

Third: Union with God (this state of ecstasy is the highest grade in Buddhism. nirvana).

The dervishes are secluded in a private area praying and meditating. The sheik and dervishes enter and the ceremony begins. The sheik represents Islamic faith and incarnates Mevlevism. The red pole (red is the colour of union) is an important part of the ritual, as it represents direct union with God. An imaginary line connects the pole with the middle of the room; it must not be crossed. The sheik walks amid the dancers dressed in black.

The plaintive reed intones a melody calling for mystic union; the drumming and chanting become hypnotic. The dervishes and the sheik whirl three times in keeping with the rhythm of the music. We are allowed to take photographs only during these three whirls, no flash allowed.

The sheik now returns to his pole, the dervishes remove their jackets signifying the shedding of earthly ties and leaving their graves. The sheik performs some ritual steps near the pole, the dancers follow.

The lead dervish passes in front of the sheik He kisses his hand. Each dancer presents themselves to the sheik and then they begin to whirl again.

The dervish’s right hand extends in prayer towards the heavens, the left hand points downward toward the floor, symbolizing "what we receive from God we give away; we possess nothing." They spin in ecstasy, voluminous white skirts billowing.

As they continue to whirl, they rotate around the center, not touching. Finally, the sheik joins the dancers and whirls in their midst. He slowly returns the pole while the dervishes cross their arms over their chest. The dance ends.

Following the ceremony, one of the dervishes joined us. He told us that people from all walks of life follow this sect. Women are also included.
The government allows this ceremony as Turkish folklore.

We paid $20 and drank delicious apple tea whilst we wandered around the beautiful setting. One could imagine the days of the Ottomans, their sultans reclining on the richly woven carpets.

Located on the vast Anatolian plain, once the capitol of the Seljuk (1071-1283) Empire and later an important Roman outpost, Konya is Turkey’s fourth largest town and a center of religious pilgrimage.

It is also home to the country’s most fundamental Muslims. We noted in comparison to other towns and cities a higher number of heavily veiled black clad women of all ages. Most of the men sported heavy long beards.

Parks, mosques, and seminaries surround this very historical town. A Phrygian myth is that Konya was the first town to emerge after the flood. St Paul and St Barnabas preached here for six years.

The Sufi mystic Celaleddin Rumi {Mevlana} founded the sect known as Mevlei or Whirling Dervishes. His tomb is located here in the Mevlana Muzesi.

In the museum (once a monastery), are tiny monastic cells that give you an idea of the life the community lead. A reading room where students studied the Koran is a peaceful place. On the walls hang beautiful framed calligraphy - exquisitely minute works. Above the door is a quotation that translates" He who enters incomplete will leave complete" (As per my postcard translation).

A large garden surrounds the center and leading to the main entrance are 18 flagstones, the mystic number of the sect.

The mausoleum containing Mevlana’s tomb is behind huge, wrought-iron gates. The tomb is enormous and rests on a pedestal, along with his black turban and his cone-shaped headpiece as worn by his sect.

A brocade cover of gold thread, which weighs 90 pounds, covers the biers of Mevlana and his son. The opulence of this place is utterly indescribable.

Pilgrims press their faces on the gates -local people and pilgrims from all over the world. I would perhaps liken it to the ecstasy one encounters in Lourdes France.

The gardens are pretty – there are many areas to sit and perhaps read. There are shops a café and washrooms. The ice cream was very good and I enjoyed watching the little children playing around the fountains.

The cost of admission was $5. Men must wear long pants, head and shoulder covers for women.

Karatay Medrese. Medrese means school. This Seljuk theological school is well worth the visit. Here, students were educated in philosophy, astronomy and other subjects. Inside, there is a huge center dome tiled with stunning blue and white ceramics, and a well-preserved frieze of hunting scenes.

Beneath the dome is a pool with a fountain in the middle. Each student was given his own cubicle in which to study and meditate. They were able to study astronomy from the central opening in the dome, while the light from the dome also provided illumination for study.

The water spilling from the fountain into the pool was thought to promote higher learning by providing them with a calm mind from the soothing sound of water. The study area was grouped around the pool; the blue of the tiles soothed their vision. I wonder if they practiced aromatherapy.

An interesting collection of ceramics is located here along with rare tiles. These are showcased in small galleries off the pool area.

At the entrance to the building, an intricately carved portal dates from 1251 - it is very beautiful, a masterpiece of art.

After leaving the museums, try to leave enough time to visit (if only for the view) the Alaadin Cami, a 13th-century mosque situated north of the Mevlana monastery. It is locate on a hill, surrounded by parkland. At a small café, there is a great place to view the area.

I must add that Konya is not a town we would choose to stay for longer than a day, but it is worth a visit for the monastery and school. Throughout our trip to Turkey, we have found the people unfailingly friendly and helpful, but while we did not experience any negative actions in Konya, there was an atmosphere of hostility. Our guide had warned us not to talk politics (as if) with any of the locals.

We were totally captivated by this region in central Turkey. Awed by the vast underground complexes hundreds of feet below the earth, we visited Kaymakli. The Greek historian Xenophon mentioned these caves in 401 BC. These amazing underground dwellings were used in the 7th to 10th centuries as a protection against Arab raiders.

The main entrance sports an enormous round millstone, slotted to effect speedy closure in times of trouble. Up to three hundred people could live here for up to two years, never leaving the dwelling. This was due to a superior ventilation system from a central shaft. Today, just as in the 7th century, we depend on it while we explore. Also, they had interior wells providing water.

Labyrinths of chapels, dorms, and even stables snake throughout the caves. Blue and yellow arrows indicate ascent and descent, but it is still puzzling at times. In the smaller rooms, it is easy to become disoriented.

One person from our (very small) group turned back after she felt herself becoming panicky. She said it was the thought of having all the soil above her that caused her distress. If you are claustrophobic, do not attempt. Wear appropriate shoes and know the risk. There is a lot of climbing; therefore, fitness is a must. The cost of admission is $4.

Avanos. A small ancient village located on the longest river in Turkey, known as the red river is a pottery and carpet center. Pottery and onyx jewelry are famous here. The red clay from the river supplies a constant source of clay for the potters.

The pottery owner, a good-natured fellow, welcomed us into his workshop. He entertained us as he demonstrated his skills. His father had owned the pottery. Our host related that he had been making pots since he was five years old.

Using an old fashioned wheel (not electric), he began to shape the clay. He asked for a volunteer to demonstrate the making of a pot. One person in our group took the challenge. As the wheel was spinning, she looked with horror upon the cone shaped clay. Hoots of laughter ensued as we realized from the gleam in his eye what the potter intended. (No, it wasn’t a fairy chimney). To make amends and to thank her good spirit, he finished the creation. What she had thought was a phallic symbol was the spout of a teapot, which he presented to her as a gift.

The showroom was amazing, containing true works of art. Young artists painstakingly etched patterns on plates. Another filled in with gorgeous colours. No hard sell here. The pots weren’t cheap but worth every dollar. I look at mine and remember the jolly potter and the hard working artisans.

Carpet Factory. We were led into a room filled with silk cocoons that had been boiled in vats to preserve them (they will be unraveled into thread later). We saw the whole process as they spun the silk threads. (One cocoon can provide up to 1,200 yards of thread.

Next, the dyeing room. Large vats boiling with indigo, crimsons, and all kinds of hues. The dyes used are natural from plants and vegetables.

From there we went to the workshop. Young girls bent over, seated crossed-legged, on the floor. Most were wearing traditional headscarves, as they worked on individual carpets.

Some of the silk rugs have one million threads per square meter - small rugs take months of daily work large ones years.

Now, if you do not intend to buy a carpet this is the time to slip away, if you are with a group, wait for them in the lovely courtyard. Everyone in the showroom was given sweet apple tea and no magician could be faster than these guys producing the carpets for sale; roll after roll, and they were gorgeous. {the carpets, not guys} However, the salesmen do not understand "no" or "too expensive" we escaped via the bathroom. Apart from the hard sell, it was an enlightening visit.

Caravansarai of Aggikarahan. A 13th century walled enclosure where merchants who traveled the Silk Road could find shelter and protection from robbers and marauders. Under the auspices of the sultan, they rested, and bought and sold behind the stout walls. The sultan was paid well for this service, perhaps likened to modern day insurance.

The portal here is magnificent. Wander around the various parts of the ruins, climb the tower; a bit of a tricky climb but the views are outstanding.

Panoramic ancient Orthasar - riddled with cave dwellings, many unexplored. This ocher-coloured village on the edge of fairy chimneys and other Cappadocian phantasmagoria is the most charming in this district. A castle fortress rises from the terrace above the village is a heart stopping scene from the highway. At one time, the entire village lived in these caves. Some still do, reluctant to leave.

The old way of life survives here despite the influx of tourists. Women can be seen working in the fields in long billowing skirts and a scarf tied beneath their chin. The men trundle along with donkey and cart, piled high with straw and fruit. If you do make a trip to this place, prepare to be bewitched.

Have you ever paid any one to rough you up and cause discomfort? Well it isn’t what you think; I am talking about my experience in a Turkish hamam. After a day scrambling around caves, contorting my body into impossible shapes in order to reach inaccessible cave dwellings, a soothing bath and massage sounded like just the thing. Off I trotted, eager to try this phenomenon called The Turkish Bath. I had visions of harems, lying around eating grapes, and sipping honeyed wine.

I entered the hot whirlpool room where an attendant indicated I repose, lovely! After ten minutes or so, I was transferred to a hot pool - I think a lobster might have balked it was so hot, but I got in and soon knew what a poor lobster felt like. After fifteen minutes, I was rescued, given a very skimpy wrap, and entered the marble bathhouse.

There, in the center of the room beneath a domed ceiling opening, was a marble slab,{ didnt think I would lie on one alive} prisms of light spotlighting the areas of sacrifice. The short and very large attendant spoke little English but she mimed "up". When I was on the warm slab, she began to pour cool water all over me - quite a pleasant sensation because it was warm in the room.

Then she put on a huge scrub glove and went to town. I tell you there wasn’t a crevice she didn’t scrub Then more sluicing, but, this time, using her hands. I now know what elephants feel like when they get a scrub down after the circus.

Following the skin removal, she proceeded to soap my body with a large spongy mitt. Then she took a thin washcloth and blew it up into a soapy balloon. {my grandkids would be impressed} By that time I no longer cared that I was without a scrap of clothing, my whole body felt like a marshmallow.

Another cool rinse followed, finally, she massaged my shoulders and all down my spine; not gently, but with vigor and purpose. After a final rinse, I was done. I was given a lovely soft towel to wrap around my head and a fluffy robe. Sipping apple tea and reclining in a soft chaise, I felt reborn with my skin tingly and pink like a newborn. It was an unforgettable experience.

Cost: US$ 45, but worth more. But I didnt get any grapes.