Naples: Nasty or Nice?

If there is one absolutely sure thing about Italy, it is that the food is some of the best to be found on the planet. We had pizza that was so good, we were left wondering just what the hell it was that we called 'pizza' before our visit here.
Besides eating, strolling around the old capital and seafront are two activities that draw tourists into the big, warm heart of this city.

Quick Tips:

Avoid walking around at night, except in the old capital and seafront, and avoid the Spanish Quarter any time, day or night. Learn some Italian before you go: unlike the north of Italy, most people do not speak English.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you take a taxi, beware of extra charges that you may incur. Prices are added for luggage, night trips, extra people, and trips to and from the airport. Ask the approximate price before your journey. Taxis have meters, but 'conveniently', these are not always turned on. Renting a scooter is much more comfortable than renting a car, but if you do rent any kind of vehicle, be sure that your Italian is up to scratch so that you understand road signs, at least.
Drivers in Naples are notoriously liberal with their interpretation of directions and red lights, which can confuse, scare and frustrate American pedestrians and drivers alike.

Basic and bland, the Holiday Inn is a safe bet for tourists and is located close enough to the old city centre. There is a shuttle bus service to and from the airport and downtown, and the staff is most helpful in telling visitors how to get about on the trains and buses to places like Pompeii and Sorrento.

This famous cafe is not only gorgeous, but it serves the finest examples of truly Italian coffee, gelati and pastries. I recommend the baba, tiramisu gelati, or a lemon ice contained inside a perfect, hollowed, southern Italian lemon.

Cooked as they should be, in a wood-stoked oven, the pizza here is so delicious, you'll never go back to Pizza Hut as long as you live! Crunchy, smoky, and topped with the freshest, most delicate cheeses, fresh rocket and tangy sauce, your mouth will thank you for the rest of your life. No exaggeration!

This impressive glass and stone construction is so beautiful, it is a wonder that it never served as a cathederal. It has always been an altar to consumerism, and since its construction in 1890, the shops here have been filled with high quality clothes, (fine knit sweaters, trendy teen wear, leather goods), shoes and cafes. At night, the local kids come round and use the four hallways for four games of intense football.

Here is what you need to know about Naples before you go:
1: Maradonna is a God to the people of this city. Their home football team has never been so victorious and glorious as it was in its Diego M. heyday.
2: Mozzarella should come from buffalos. NOT cows. Taste the difference and you'll never go back to that chewy, rubbery cow stuff.
3: Naples is a good starting point for travelling to Pompeii, Sorrento, the Almalfi Coast and the islands. Just take the Circumvesuviana trains, from the main train station. It's super cheap (about 2 dollars to Pompeii) and easy.
4: Neapolitan culture is alive and well. Tourists must not expect the same kind of Americanization that is so predominant in the north of the country. There is no Disney shop. Few people speak English. Traffic laws are generally ignored. Signs are in Italian. Napolitans do things their way, which they generally regard as the best way and are very proud of it. Bless them!
5: Naples is relatively poor, but it is not cheap.
6: Violent crime is rare, but petty theft is not. Watch yourself and your belongings. Be alert at all times, not just for theft, but for rebellious scooter drivers on the sidewalks.
7: Naples is rich in history. Brush up on it before you go to make your stay all the richer.