City Girl's Adventures Abroad: Puerto Viejo de Tal

The best thing to do in Puerto Viejo, and really the only reason to come, is to relax. Chill on the beach, lay in a hammock, gaze at the stars -- if you're expecting a town with many activities, try the Pacific side.

If you are a bit bored, snorkeling trips are available, as well as moped, ATV, and bike rentals to explore the surrounding beaches.

Quick Tips:

Puerto Viejo is HOT, and the mosquitoes are plentiful, with rumors of malaria. Carry and use bug spray, and if you can, shell out the money for a room with AC, or at least a fan (being budget travellers, we did the latter, and sweated through the night).

The beach and waters are extremely rocky, and not welcoming to swimmers. Contrary to guide books, surfers may also be disappointed, as there are few waves to speak of, with the exception of "The Salsa Brava," which is outside of town.

In an attempt to be honest, I must say, especially for the younger set, pot is a big draw. If you're uncomfortable in such an environment, don't go out much at night -- everyone smokes, and I mean, everyone. This isn't a place for grandparents...

Best Way To Get Around:

San José has buses to Puerto Viejo every day, with the first leaving at 6am, though it's frequently full -- book ahead, even during wet season. We missed the early bus and opted to go to Limón and take a transfer to PV, which was terrible. Try to avoid going to Limón if possible; wait for the next Puerto Viejo direct bus. In town, walking will get around the small grid-like town perfectly fine. If you want to explore other areas, consider a rental, especially a bike rental which are just a few dollars for the entire day. You'll see signs throughout the town.

Cabinas Casa Verde is a lovely complex of nicely furnished cabinas, all with porches and hammocks. I went with two friends, and we arrived to find only one room available. We managed to talk the rather disagreeable front-desk woman into giving us a free mattress, so we all squeezed into one room for $24 a night--an absolute steal at $8 per person. Our room had a mosquito net (necessity here), a ceiling and table fan, a sink, mirror, and porch with hammock. Although a few more expensive rooms have bathrooms, ours did not, and we used the shared bathrooms in the center of the cabina complex. Although shared, the bathrooms and showers were, without a doubt, the cleanest I used during my entire stay in Costa Rica.

The walkways and shower floors are all beautifully tiled, and flowers and trees grow plentifully. The front desk can arrange tours for you, but talking it over at Puerto Viejo Tours is generally a better option. The front desk workers can be unhelpful and a pain, and generally have a scowl on their face. Be patient and kind.

All in all, Cabinas Casa Verde is a wonderful, comfortable, picturesque hotel to spend a few evenings. With a few requests, this fine establishment can even accommodate the budget traveler.

El Chile Rojo is a little hole in the wall on the main road across from the ATEC office. After weeks in Costa Rica, my fellow city girls and I were yearning for some delicious Thai and were thrilled to find Chile Rojo. The delightful, yet slightly cramped open restaurant plays great music in a casual candlelit atmosphere.

The restaurant serves delicious and beautifully presented Thai food, although portions are small for it's comparatively higher prices. My friend and I each ordered Thai Chicken and Tofu Salads, (1300 colones), that were about a third the size of a typical entreé salad. Daily specials are listed on the board outside, with exotic offerings like barracuda or dessert crepes. Saturday is sushi night, with delicious vegetarian rolls for about 1300, and a large sushi sampler for a great value at 2800. Happy hour is from 6-8 PM nightly, when you can get two drinks for about $3 US. The Piña and Mango Coladas are too strong and the ice is not blended in--opt for a great Mai Tai instead.

Overall, El Chile Rojo is one of the best decently priced restaurants in Costa Rica. If you're a little sick of the typical casado, head here for a little taste of the upscale.

Bambú is a thumping reggae bar and club, with busy reggae nights on Monday and Friday. A fairly small dance floor is inside, and stairs go down onto the beach where plastic tables and chairs are set up.

My two girl friends and I went to Bambú on a Friday night, and found the place to be packed. Although some people dance, the activity du jour is smoking marijuana. If you are uncomfortable in such an environment, do not come, as virtually everyone is either stoned or drunk. One friend stayed with me outside, talking and dancing on the beach with a few of our friends, while another decided to go onto the dance floor. She was manhandled a bit by a few guys, and given forced kisses. Later in the evening, a rather scary looking guy asked me to dance, and when I declined and ignored him, he called me "an American piece of s**t" in Spanish.

As I do not smoke and hate when either myself or a friend is disrespected, I hated my time at Bambú. We eventually decided to sit and talk farther down on the beach, where we were still close enough to hear the music and be safe.

Bambú does play great reggae music and certainly has a booming nightlife on Fridays, but be slightly cautious as the club can be a little rough. Always stay with, at the minimum, one other person.