Virgin Gorda Hideaways

Warren, owner of Caribbean Wings, is a retired airline pilot now running a private charter business that shuttles wide-eyed tourists to and from Virgin Gorda's tiny landing strip.

With a bird’s eye view of the island, Warren pointed out sugar mill ruins, the famed rock formation called "The Baths," and a number of excellent flats for bone fishing just before our smooth landing.

Upon our departure from the turbo prop, we were greeted with a sandy patch of beach called a landing strip, and an open-air baggage claims by the sea. Locals, sipping on rum punch at the Flying Iguana bar next to the landing strip, greeted us and were quick to point out the island's hidden treasure.

From here on Virgin Gorda, everyone is friends.

Saying goodbye to Warren, we were off to Speedy's Garage just down the street and around several well-fed goats in the roadway. Speedy - who owns boats, buildings, and rental cars - is a good start for all things Virgin Gorda. In fact, the hand-drawn map hanging on the wall of his car rental business is so good that we've kept it for return visits.

Equipped with our newly rented beach buggy - a brightly painted truck complete with canopy and bench seats in the bed – we followed the windy roads of the two-mile ocean paradise to Little Trunk Bay Estates, in close proximity to The Baths.

Operated by Marge Ewert of Priority Properties, Southern Gables and the rest of the villas nearby, all boasted outdoor garden showers, panoramic views, and an open air design that took full advantage of the breezy trade winds.

Finally on the beach we found the setting practically private, as they were few guests for miles. Exploring Spring Bay (designated as National Park) and "The Crawl," a series of boulders that form peaceful pools, we received our first dose of true island solitude – nothing like what you come to expect in the States. Exploring deeper we found Little Trunk Bay, Savannah Bay, and a small beach at Guava Berry Estates -- each very unique, and all them providing the kind of snorkeling experience one would expect to find on a private day charter. Just off the beach were a number of excellent coral heads, barracuda, and tropical fish!

Quick Tips:

Don’t miss a diving experience with Dive BVI (dbvi@caribsurf.com, or 495-5513), as they’re the best on the island, or all of the BVIs for that matter. These folks are also quick to provide dive equipment sales and rentals.

If money and schedules permit, a chance to float with the crew at Double D’s is also a good time. Think – private charters, specialized attention, and the most knowledgeable of staff. Make sure to ask for Caryn, the best of the group, and she’ll take you one of the best dive spots – The Indians.

Try the Bath and Turtle Restaurant on Wednesday night for their "Jump Up," a local treat with live music and free flowing drinks. Go early for a seat.

Consider a massage on the beach from the posh Little Dix Bay Resort, (ldbhotel@surfbvi.com, or 495-5555)

For a real thrill ride, take the tiny road over Gorda Peak to "The Valley," with its airplane-like vantage point you’ll get a few full of the all the nearby islands. Take your camera!

Try a local dish, such as Callaloo – a well-seasoned West Indian soup that contains fresh ingredients such as Okra, chile peppers, and sometimes crab.

Best Way To Get Around:

Rent a car for sure....as the land is hilly. Did I say the land was hilly? .... Good, because the land is really hilly.

A walk or two is always advised as it's truly the best way to get a feel for a new location. But be prepared...the land is hilly. Oh, did I say that already?

Seriously, walking or biking is fine -- but renting a canopy truck from Speedy's (495-5240) or Andy’s (495-5252) is your best bet to see the entire island. Locals are knowledgeable and helpful -- even giving you a polite beep-beep if you're on the wrong side of the road (stay left here). Taxis are also available and easy enough to flag down. A personal choice is "Blue," a local cab driver with no phone number -- you'll just see him around. Blue drives a large white van that reads "People's Choice" on the side and will happily transport guests at any hour of the day or night...usually for around to .

Marge Ewert, property manager for Priority Property on Virgin Gorda, has a stable of beachside villas and bungalows to choose from on her list. We opted for Southern Gables, the vacation home of one of the owners at the popular Wintergreen Real estate in Nellysford, Virginia.

The villa, with 3 bedrooms and 2 full garden baths, was postcard perfect. Nestled on a hillside in Little Trunk Estates, Southern Gables was only a two minute walk (maybe less) from one of BVI’s most private beaches. In fact, few people know of the beach, or visit it for that matter, as most touristy types head up the road towards The Baths.

On the large deck of Southern Gables one can take in the panoramic views of the surrounding islands and the Sir Frances Drake Passage. Adorned with colorful Adirondack porch furniture, the deck is situated on a massive boulder and is perfect for secluded cocktail parties, sunbathing, and quiet reading.

Inside you’ll find an open-air design, with a full kitchen, living room, and wicker furniture – all facing the rear of the house, which provides the best views of the waterway. Large master bedrooms, all with private decks, cap off the perfect BVI accommodations.

Of course, any culinary journey through BVI must lead you through the famed Sugar Mill (284-495-4355) at least once. Open for dinner only, The Sugar Mill is located in Apple Bay, built on the ruins of a 370-yeard old rum distillery. With the likes of Conde Nast as well as Caribbean Travel & Life Magazine routinely singing their praises, owners Jeff and Jinx Morgan pull out all the stops, while keeping the local culinary influence prevalent on their menu. With that said, it's well worth the quick ferry ride from Virgin Gorda, or stay the entire night as we like to do.

As the authors of The Sugar Mill Caribbean Cookbook, expect fine dining selections abound - like Caribbean country pate, scallops in puff pastry, flying fish, and local fish baked in banana leaves. With two reefs protecting the restaurant’s beachfront from the Northern surge, the resort is also home to some of the best swimming and snorkeling around.

Stumbling upon Edith, the bartender at Mad Dogs, was as good of a start that anyone could have asked for when traveling miles from home. Cracking open a Carib, a locally brewed pilsner, at the seaside bar perched on the rocks just above an outcropping of massive boulders, Edith filled us in on Virgin Gorda’s most intimate of hideaways.

Known locally, and perhaps even worldwide, as the creator of the best Pina Coladas, Edith can certainly fill you in on the island's "sip sip" or good-natured gossip.

With her quite and unassuming way, she politely declined questions related to her secret cocktail ingredients, but happily pointed us and a handful of other adventure-seekers to the best kept secrets of the British Virgin Islands.

For instance, the Mineshaft Full Moon Party, held each month - was at the top of her list of suggestions, and one I'd whole heartedly recommend myself. Lincoln, a jovial fixture at the restaurant, is sure to give you his lively version of the local scene. Decline his offers for the famous "Cave In" (a secret beverage with "a little bit of everything") and you’ll live to tell friends back home of the evening. From atop the large hillside deck, guests are treated to island fungi music, native islanders (that don’t make appearances until well after 2am), and an excellent local dish of flying fish.

When most people hear the name BVI, they immediately think of the "Yachting Capital of the World." However, Lincoln and many of the other locals (like Coco – one of the wait staff at the restaurant), will ensure that there are other treasure too. For a trip to the islands wouldn't be complete without also sampling Anegada lobster, local conch, fresh papaya, mangos, and passion fruit galore.

With full bellies and a good night's sleep we awoke to explore nearby islands such as Jost Van Dyke, a four-mile long treasure, known as the "barefoot" island due to its casual lifestyle. However, Edith and other locals will warn not to let the nickname fool you. Jost Van Dyke may be a favorite destination of yachties and movie stars due to its protected anchorages and relatively unknown status, but it is still one of the best party islands of the Caribbean.

Foxy Callwood, the larger than life bartender/owner, has hosted some of the biggest parities on the island at his popular beachside watering hole called Foxxy’s. Halloween parties, catamaran races, and legendary New Year’s Eve parties are hosted with style as yacht owners, Rastafarians, European backpackers, and locals converge on this tiny island along with a famous face or two.

Everyone on the popular, yet still unknown island, will tell you -- before leaving Jost Van Dyke you must try a "Pain Killer" (a mighty rum concoction) invented at the Soggy Dollar Bar. Named the "Best Beach Bar in the Caribbean" in 2000 and 2001, it didn’t come as a surprise when Islands Magazine chose the digs as "The Number One Watering Hole in the World" in 2002. Despite its fame, the Soggy Dollar Bar has no dock, leading thirsty patrons to often swim ashore from their boat – thus paying for drinks with "soggy dollars." If you’re brave, or intoxicated, dare to ask the bartender Kendrick (call him KC) to a game of ring-toss before you leave.

Just down the Sir Frances Drake Passage, is another treasure – Treasure Island that is. Make sure to his it as well on your short boat ride back to Virgin Gorda.

In actuality it’s called Norman Island, the acclaimed island in which the Robert Louis Stevenson’s ‘Treasure Island’ was based. Appropriately, a pirate ship has sat at anchor in the busy bay since 1987. After the brig called William Thornton sunk, locals resurrected what is now known as Willy T, a world famous floating bar where truly anything goes.

Back on Virgin Gorda, or "fat virgin" as Christopher Columbus tagged it, you’ll want to save time between island hopping for a true day at the beach. Pick any, as they are all as close to perfect as one could hope. Practically private, you’ll rarely see more than another party or two, and some even are known to go "topless" – the beaches are just that secluded! For a good bet, try Spring Bay (designated as National Park) and go to "The Crawl," a series of boulders that form peaceful pools of water and a break from the sun. Little Trunk Bay, Savannah Bay, and the small beach at Guava Berry Estates are very nice as well, and provide the kind of snorkeling experience one would expect to find on a commissioned day charter. Just off the beach are a number of excellent coral heads, barracuda, and tropical fish that’ll have you guessing at for weeks.

What does this mean for you?

An entire week, maybe longer if you're lucky, of the kind of luxury most of us only come close to on a post card or travel channel segment. As BVI continues to define itself far beyond sun and placid waters, you’ll want to saver these moments before the secret is let out of the bag.

Enjoy yourself, and don't forget to tip Edith for such good advice.