Bayeux, it's more than a tapestry.

Certainly, the tapestry is not to be missed, it is a one of a kind piece of history but the Cathedral literally dwarfs the whole city. It is the first thing you see as you drive up to this picturesque little town. It is a marvelous example of the Gothic style built upon an earlier Romanesque Church. It beautifully combines the 12th and 15th century styles. It is surrounded by picturesque streets with half-timbered houses and many fine stone ones as well.

There are some small museums that give you an idea of the lace trade . It is and has been a major industry in this area.

I am not a World War II fan but certainly this is a great base for visiting the D-day beaches and there is a Memorial to the Battle of Normandy as you drive into town.

Quick Tips:

I suggest that you learn at least a few words of French as people here are not anxious to speak English. They were all very friendly but I was glad I understand and speak French. Allow yourself an hour at least for the Tapestry Museum. There is a headphone tour that adds greatly to the enjoyment. It is a true masterpiece and I know you will be amazed when you see it. It is only about a foot or a foot and a half wide but it is at least 100 feet long and it tells the story of the Norman Conquest in sections. The tour takes you through all the twists and turns of the story of William of Normandy and Harold Godwinson the last Saxon King.

To complete the story we took a day trip to Caen where William is buried in the Cathedral. His queen Mathilda is buried in another Cathedral in Caen. One is called the Men's and one the Woman's. Harold is buried near Battle in England in a much simpler grave. No honor for the loser.

Best Way To Get Around:

Park your car and walk. It's delightful. There are some parking lots but mostly its on street parking with pay and display tickets. The town is very manageable on foot. The streets are very narrow and even though some of them feel like it’s a pedestrian zone, it really isn't.

If you are going to be here on a Sunday night , its important to note that most of the restaurants will be closed. We had Mrs. Chilcott's suggestions with us but finally had to settle on the one we actually found open.

This is a wonderful 300-year-old stone farmhouse with 4 bed-and-breakfast rooms, all ensuite (our room had a very large tub that made for an enjoyable soak). Col and Mrs. Chilcott run a relaxed establishment with rabbits roaming free in the farm yard. The Col is an expert guide to the D-Day beaches, and Rosemary has travel extensively and is a font of information. They are both British. The rooms are comfortable and clean, with chairs to sit on and antique dressers and comforters on the beds. Breakfast is typical continental French: bread, juice, croissants, coffee, and tea or hot chocolate. The house is on a country lane about a mile outside Bayeux. They also have a gite that they rent by the week. The welcome is warm and friendly here, and the location is delightful. On cold January evenings Rosemary invited us into her parlor, where a fire was blazing. One evening she served us tea and cookies. We sat and chatted with her while we played cards and waited to receive our calls from home. The location is also very good. It is only 2 or 3 minutes into Bayeux, and yet you really feel as if you are in the country.

We went here for lunch on Mrs. Chilcott's recommendation and were not disappointed. It is a butcher shop with a family-style dining area in the rear. We shared a huge table with a local couple. The meat was the big point, as was expected in a butcher shop. I had lamb chops that were very tender and delicious--but for me, way undercooked, even though I asked for well done. This is a problem for me generally in France, as they eat their meat way under cooked. The dessert was apple pie with a calvados sauce that was worth returning for. The owner came out to ask us at the end of the meal how we enjoyed everything. It was small, friendly, and the sort of place one is happy to recommend.

We only allowed ourselves one day to visit Bayeux. As you can well imagine, the Bayeux Tapestry Museum took up a great deal of that visit as well as a quick walk around in the Cathedral. Joe decided to go off on his own after lunch so Al and I decided that we would look for another small museum to visit. The Museum Baron-Gerard fit the bill perfectly.
It is a wonderful small museum housed in the former Bishops Palace with a stunning collection of artwork and porcelain. There are impressionist works as well as some by Boucher and David. There is also some beautiful furniture and objects d'art.

The porcelain was produced in the factory in Bayeux, and the museum traces the different forms it has taken from 1812 to 1951. This porcelain is very highly sought after by collectors and antiques dealers and certainly is way beyond anything I could afford to buy but it is always enjoyable to dream.

Another area that is represented is lace work, and the museum has a extensive collection of both hand made and bobbin produced. Bayeux is a center of the lace industry in France and has been for hundreds of years. They even have a type of lace know as Bayeux Lace or point-ground that is very specific to this area and is still produced today. There is another museum in town dedicated to lacemaking if you really have an interest.