Kansai (Osaka, Kobe, Kyoto) atmosphere

The Kansai region is the undisputed champion of Japanese cuisine, and the locals leave their workaday concerns at the door, so restaurants and drinking spots are a great place to start. Other local gathering spots at which memorable experiences are guranteed are GO (boardgame) parlors, Shogi (japanese chess) parlors, Pachinko parlors, Onsens (hot springs), martial arts dojos, sporting events (the list goes on).

Quick Tips:

The English language monthly whats-going-on magazine 'Kansai Time Out' (not related to London or New York T.O.) is a very good resource, if a bit 'gaijin centric'. If you have even the slightest amount of Japanese ability, the weekly entertainment magazine 'Pia' (available at all kiosks and convenience stores) will make a more local world accessable. A great restaurant guide (in Japanese but easy to navigate and with lots of pictures) is the annual 'Gourmet Manual'. It is organized by type of cuisine as opposed to location, which makes it easier to satisfy that very specific craving.

Best Way To Get Around:

Public transportation is excellent but costly, although for the short-term visitor there is little alternative. Kansai lends itself well to exploration by bicycle or motorcycle. Cars (in urban areas) are unnecessary and often more trouble than they are worth.

Shinkaichi epitomizes 'shita-machi' (rough, older part of town) to most Kobe residents. Back in the 60's and 70's Shinkaichi was the center of Kobe, though in the eighties newer Sannomiya took precedence and Shinkaichi began a steady decline. Recently it has undergone a revival of sorts, partly due to the Kobe Arts Villiage Center, a state-of-the-art performance/music space, but the overall feel is still worn and seedy, and is well-worth a walk about. As in any 'shita-machi' area, most shops haven't changed since shortly after World War 2, and the locals are a colorful mix including construction workers, professional pachinko players, low-level Yakuza, and day-laborers. The best place to meet them would be in one of the ubiquitous eating/drinking places which line the main pedestrian shopping street. In exploring you may stumble across Kobe's main 'bai-shun' (literally 'selling spring'; prostitution) district, which has, as a result of the extended recession in recent years, begun to accept foreign clientele. Even if you don't plan on becoming a patron, block after block of 'Soap Land' houses and the faces of the door men amount to a more-than-interesting evening stroll. HOW TO GET THERE: take the Hankyu Railway Kobe line to Shinkaichi station. Alternately walk from Hankyu Kobe station through the has-seen-better-days underground shopping arcade. You will pass a classic table tennis center, where serious players gather in the evenings. Never let them hear you say 'Ping Pong'.

An escape from the shopping-oriented crowds of Sannomiya and Motomachi (the center of Kobe) quiet Meriken Park, in effect a large pier jutting out into Osaka bay, is just a short walk directly south of JR (Japan Railway) Motomachi Station. The pier was toppled in the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995, and in its reconstruction parts of the destroyed pier have been left as they are in a fascinating, tasteful display. By day or night the view of the the Rokko Mountain range is impressive, and the fresh sea air and calm waves more Zen than most temples these days. Chances are you'll be joined by young couples or old fishermen, and respite is the word of the day. HOW TO GET THERE: take JR Kobe line to Motomachi station and walk south. Hanshin Railway or the Kobe Chikatetsu (subway) may also be used.

Walk 5 min. south of Hankyu Railway Kasuganomichi station and you will find a large, thriving ShoTenGai (pedestrian shopping street) dominated by Korean food markets and clothing stores. For the resident the vegetables are cheaper and fresher than most supermarkets, and rarer treats like large zucchini can be found at reasonable prices. A walk around the area will likely lead to local Korean restaurants, ChiJiMi or Paejon (korean pan-cake) food-stalls, Kim-chi specialists, and very, very local 'snack' bars. The Yakiniku (grilled beef) shop at the east end of the ShoTenGai is a favorite local spot, and the menu (on the wall) is in Korean; always a good indication of authenticity. Stay late enough and you will undoubtedly end up at your neighbors table trying to count the small green bottles of Jinro (the local poison of choice). HOW TO GET THERE: take the Hankyu Railway to Kasuganomichi (one stop East of Sannomiya), exit and walk south 2-3 minutes. Alternately, if you are somewhat familiar with the area, the walk from Sannomiya (the center of Kobe) is around 15 minutes.

The walkway which runs from Kobe's JR (Japan Raliway) Sannomiya station to JR Kobe station is one of the densest, most active areas in the city. In the past it was THE place for seamen-on-leave from Russia and S.E. Asia to buy second-hand electronics in bulk. More recently young fashion oriented shops have snatched up spaces near JR Sannomiya station and have turned it into one of the hottest young-peoples shopping centers in the region. The western end, near JR Kobe station, is still dominated by second-hand electronics and curio shops, many owned by Vietnamese, Chinese, and Koreans. In a city where 'grit' is little and far between, it can be a welcome change in atmosphere. TO GET THERE: take JR to Sannomiya station and walk west beneath the railway. Alternately de-train at JR Kobe station and walk east. Hankyu Railway, Hanshin railway or the Kobe Chikatetsu (subway) may also be used.

While Tokyo has (and even Kansai people will admit) superior Soba, you will never get a bowl of Udon which compares to that rolled out at Hagakure. The narrow, ever-busy shop is located in the lower level of the DaiSan building in Osaka's central Umeda area in a maze of corridors, so you may have to ask your way once you feel warm. The shop is open for lunch, closed for a couple hours before dinner, and there is always a string of people waiting to get in (but it is WELL worth it). THE dish to order is 'KiJouYu Udon', which in its simplicity allows you to fully appreciate the Udon itself. The prices are very reasonable, and ordering plus 50% ('ichi-ten-go') or double ('daburu') portions costs no more (but must be eaten). All first-time visitors are instructed as to how to dress and consume their hand-made noodles for optimum flavor, and once the initial pass is through, left on their own to slurp in peaceful reverie. HOW TO GET THERE: take either the Hankyu, Hanshin or JR railway to Osaka's Umeda station. From there, remain underground and follow the signs to the Daisan 3 building.

Nestled in a valley just over the Rokko Mountains, Arima Onsen makes a wonderful day-trip from Kobe or Osaka. Busses run (in both directions) from Hankyu Ashiya and JR Ashiyagawa stations, and the Kobe Dentetsu (railway) terminates there, but a hike over the Rokko Mountain front range makes a soak all that more rewarding. The hike is fairly steep initially, but Japanese octogenarians do it regularly. There are views over the dense industrial paradise of Amagasaki and Osaka bay, and clear days bring into focus the islands and high mountains of Wakayama. At the top of Rokko mountain there is a very average curry-rice/udon shop for the hungry and lunch-less. Once in Arima a dip costs between 350 yen at the public bath to 1500 at a top-end resort. Meals are availabe for a variety of prices, as is accommodation. While an overnight stay at an Onsen can be an extremely rewarding experience, Arima, with it's close proximity to Kobe and Osaka, can be crowded. If the price is going to be paid (and Arima tends to be more expensive than other more Onsens), there are far more ideal locations along the Japan Sea (north Hyogo, Tottori prefectures) and on Shikoku. HOW TO GET TO THE HIKE: Take the Hankyu Osaka/Kobe line to Hankyu Ashiyagawa station. From there follow the signs to Rokko Mountain and the Rock Garden. For those interested, along the way you will pass a Zen temple with open meditation sessions (for Japanese and Foreigners) on posted days. The path is clear all the way to the top, and from there, follow the signs to Arima. A few minutes into Arima you will pass a well from which bubbles up the famous mineral-laden water. The natural carbonation gives it a kick, but visitors are warned not to drink over a liter a day, as certain minerals in larger quantities can run through a person quicker than expected. The hike can be done in 3-4 hours at a reasonable pace.

It is a regular practice of the Japanese retired to form a morning hiking group to daily ascend a nearby mountain. Takatori mountain is a particularly popular spot as the surrounding neighborhoods are traditional and local, and perched at the summit is a centuries old shrine looking out over Kobe city. Every morning the hiker will be greeted by dozens of Ohayo!s, bleated with particular gusto on Saturdays and Sundays. A special treat 2/3 of the way up are two eating/drinking places where members of the older generation gather to drink beer and play Shogi (chess) from the morning. The beer is carried up and down by a man in his 70's and his wife in special shoulderbags designed to hold a dozen or so of the large bottles. A visitor would be hard-pressed to find a more local watering hole, and entering can feel like walking into a saloon in a small town in the west, but once inside the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. HOW TO GET THERE: Take the Hanshin Railway to Kosoku Nagata station or the Kobe Chikatetsu (subway) to Nagata station. Follow the signs to Nagata Jinja (shrine), a famous destination in itself, and from there head toward the highest mountain visible behind. If you keep heading up (the hill), you are bound to run into the footpath which continues to the summit and beyond.