Tortola -- Beaches, breadfruit, and Bomba

Think of the Virgin Islands, of sandy beaches and placid waters, and you most likely think of St. Thomas or St. John. However, the British portion of the Virgin Islands shares the same simple pleasures and idyllic lifestyle as well - just with a tad bit more subtlety.

The British Virgin Islands, within eyeshot of the US Virgin Islands, may lack the hustle-and-bustle of the mainland but makes up for it with distinct and hidden gems. You just have to know where to find them.

Peering at the Caribbean on a world map, it’s a bit difficult to distinguish between the 50 or so islands and cays making up the British Virgin Islands (BVI). About 90-miles east of Puerto Rico and northeast of the US Virgin Islands, your best bet is to find your information the old fashioned way – just ask a local.

If you do, most often you'll be encouraged to stray from the beaten path. Still only footsteps away from anchoring cruise ships, you’ll find extensive "flats", an ideal spot for game fish – tarpon, barracuda, bonefish, and jacks. Fishermen diving for conch or Welch, just north of the salt ponds, are also a common sight. Hop a ride with a local or flag down a cab (they're plentiful), to explore the extreme hills around Tortola and the many hidden coves and beaches.

And if you still have the energy, seek out the ferry docks for a ride over to the Bitter End Resort – guest or not, you’ll enjoy a buffet of island goodies. Not in the mood for fancy cocktails and regattas, then take the next stop, which is Gun Creek on Virgin Gorda. There you can schmooze with Bozo at the tiny "Last Stop" bar. A local hometown hero that is almost always telling tales at the open-air pub, Bozo will happily shoot the breeze for hours if you buy him a drink. Just don’t believe him when he tells you that it’s his birthday.

Quick Tips:

Tortola is home to a colorful mix of culinary options...explore them all! Nestled on a hillside just past the corner on Main Street, is the Roti Palace (494-4196). Try the roti (crepe-like wrap) or any dish that uses the local fruit of choice – breadfruit. Come dinnertime, Mrs. Scatliffe’s (495-4556) in Carrot Bay, can’t be beat when her famous "Chicken and Coconut" is being served. With candlelight and fungi entertainment (music indigenous to the islands), this eatery provides the kind of unique dinning experience that many visitors rave about to friends and family.

You may also want to try a private chef. Donna Arter, who dives for her own lobster, is among the best on the island. After dancing on the veranda, live music, and a knowledgeable chef’s presentation – Donna will cap off an evening with tales of her fishing trips, while guests dine on Rum Runner lobster tails, grilled asparagus, and Caviar Sailboat Regattas (d_arter88@surfbvi.com). After all that eating you might want to consider boating over to Anegada. Known as the "sunken island", adventure-seekers are treated to the most elemental aspects of island life. Be prepared for primeval seclusion – miles of untouched beach.

Best Way To Get Around:

Tortola is among the friendliest of islands, and catching a cab or ride with the locals is easy enough. Plus, biking and walking is always a good way to get a feel for the land, especially if you're close to the port in Road Town.

Keep in mind though, the land is hilly, making walking or biking difficult if you'd like to see all the sights. Many folks opt to rent a car for a few days just to feel good about seeing all of the island.

A few suggestions for quality rental agencies are as follows:

Dollar Rent A Car

Prospect Reef and Long Bay Beach Resort
Address: P.O. Box 3305, Road Town, Tortola, BVI
Ph: (284) 494-6093 Fax: (284) 494-7837
Email: dollar@caribsurf.com
Facilities: Renting Suzuki Side Kicks - featuring four-wheel drive, AC or soft-top.
Rates: Summer: - per day - Winter: - per day. Available at both locations.

or

Hertz Car Rental

West End
Address: P.O.Box 1060, West End, Tortola, BVI
Ph: International: 800/654-3080 or 284/495-4405. Fax: 284/494-6060
Email: hertzbvi@hotmail.com

Tortola, unlike many of the other parts of BVI, offers an array of accommodations. As frequent visitors, we've enjoyed everything from small apartment-style rentals at Coconut Point to luxury resorts. The best part of all is that each accommodation is different, and almost all run by locals that can give you a true feel for the islands.

The accommodations you eventually decide upon should be in line with what you hope to get out of the vacation. If you're just looking for a good time and quick place to lay your head - then Coconut Point is great, as it's just down the road from Bomba's Surfside Shack and an excellent surfing beach. Uschi, the manager, is sure to take care of you (284/495-4892).

For something completely different though, try the Cuan Law -- the largest sailing trimaran in the world. It by no means is like any other live-aboard, as it's not just for diving and day tripping. Instead the Cuan Law is designed for luxury. Its size alone results in extreme stability, both at anchor and while underway. With seven crewmembers (the captain is Gerry), we felt comfortable and safe at all times.

Looking for Something Different?...Look For Bomba:

It’s a time to break bad habits and bad addictions. Every 28½ days the full moon reaches its zenith, a period that some say is well suited for spells that can transform lives and increase psychic abilities.

Or in Bomba’s case, just an excuse for one heck of a good time.

Bomba’s Surfside Shack, a colorful mixture of plywood and clapboard on a picturesque bay on Tortola (British Virgin Islands), is home to one of the largest full-moon parties worldwide.

Hundreds of locals, sunburned surfers, yacht owners, backpackers, and tourists fresh of the cruise ships all rub elbows with this larger than life legend, known simply as "Bomba."

Wall to wall people, all jammed into a tiny shack that looks like it’s going to fall down at any minute, search for the slightly disheveled man, with a thick beard and gold rimmed glasses. Usually under a large palm tree, stirring a black kettle, Bomba lovingly boils water in preparation for his "Mushroom Tea."

The mighty concoction contains a small dose of psychedelic, yet legal, ‘shrooms saturated in the island’s finest rum. Tea or no tea, the shack itself is worth a visit. Undies, everything from lacy thongs to bloomers, hang from the ceiling blowing in the balmy winds.

It’s a party that doesn’t stop, no matter the time or even threat of hurricane. In fact, Bomba’s Shack has been completely demolished by several hurricanes (Hurricane Marilyn was among the worst). Each time it’s miraculously hammered back together by fans the very next day.

To get there, look for Dave and his taxi under the tree behind the Blue Parrot Cafe, or flag down any of the cabbies. They all know Bomba!

Despite the excellent dining options on Tortola, many vacationers who are too busy diving or snorkeling hire a local or private chef for a taste of the islands in their own villa. Donna Arter (d_arter88@surfbvi.com), a private chef on Tortola, and diver Albert Stoutt, know the hidden fishing spots and often team up to not only prepare your food, but catch it too. With the growing demand for private catering services that focus on local cuisine, Donna and Albert have carved out a niche product – not only the freshest lobster, but served seaside as well.

"Many of my customers get a kick out of grilling their lobster over an open fire by the ocean, something that often is prohibited on beaches in the US," Donna told me on a recent visit, talking at ease with a live lobster in hand.

On our most recent experience, Donna and Albert hosted a boat full of wide-eyed family members – all treated to a day sail, snorkeling excursions, and rum runner lobster and asparagus grilled over a fire, with local made charcoal, on a secluded BVI beach.

Booking a local private chef isn’t has hard or expensive as one might imagine, and can often be lined up by vacationers during the week of their visit. Stephanie Shaw (284-494-8668), originally from New York, is always a good bet for foodies traveling abroad – as she can also whip up an unforgettable meal in your vacation villa, yacht, or just about anywhere else you can imagine. It’s no wonder Chef Steph is the "chef du jour" for the Chief Minister and First Lady in BVI, as well a handful of government officials and "celebrity clients."

Best of all, these wonderful chefs can free up valuable time during your vacation, giving you a chance to take scuba lessons, explore a nearby island, or relax longer on the beach.