Madrid From Kilometer Zero

Ernest Hemingway once wrote that Madrid "has none of the look that you expect of Spain...yet when you get to know it, it is the most Spanish of all cities, the best to live in, the finest people, month in month out, the finest climate..."

Who am I to disagree?

While Madrid may not possess quite the grandeur of Paris, London, or Rome, there are still plenty of rewards for the traveler. With opulent palaces, old world plazas, world-class museums, wonderful architecture, beautiful parks, great cuisine and shopping, and nightlife second to none, Madrid is a sophisticated city that has it all.

The Plaza de la Independencia.

Every great city has fabulous museums, and Madrid is no exception. In the "Golden Art Triangle" of the Museo Nacional del Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, and the Museo Nacional Centro del Arte Reina Sofia, Madrid boasts three of Spain’s most important museums. Clustered near each other in Bourbon Madrid, we saw the works of Spanish masters Goya and Velázquez at the Prado, Toulouse-Lautrec portraits and van Gogh landscapes at the Thyssen-Bornemisza, and Picasso’s Guernica and surrealist pioneers Dalí and Miró at the Reina Sofia.

Stunning architecture abounds in Madrid.

The city boasts some spectacular architecture, and we saw numerous examples of Neoclassical, Renaissance, and Baroque styles throughout the city. The Palacio Real is the premiere example of the Neoclassical style in Madrid. Moorish influences have made their mark as well.

For high-end (window) shopping, we enjoyed wandering the streets of the Salamanca neighborhood north of Calle de Alcala and east of Calle de Serrano. You’ll find designer fashions, furniture, jewelry, and more. We stumbled upon great art galleries on Calle de Claudio Coello, including an interesting exhibition featuring works by Elisa Valsangiacomo.

Near one of the main entrances at the Parque del Retiro.

With more than forty parks and gardens, Madrid is one of the greenest cities in Europe. We went on leisurely strolls amid spacious lawns, sculpted gardens, shady trees, fountains, even an Egyptian temple. What’s more, these are some of the best maintained parks anywhere, so get out and enjoy them! Check out my free form entry to read more.

Quick Tips:

An Abono Paseo del Arte, or art museum pass, is a great deal. One price (7.66 € for adults) gains admission to the three major art museums in Madrid: the Museo Nacional del Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, and the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. At current exchange rates, that’s less than US.50 for all three museums. What’s more, the pass is good for a full year, so you can spread out your museum visits over the length of your stay. It’s a big plus not feeling like you have to see all three in one day.

If you’re not into walking, a Metrobus 10-journey ticket is an efficient and inexpensive way to get around. They’re good on both the Metro and EMT buses, and at 5.35€ for ten trips, offer a substantial discount over the individual one-way fare of 1.15€. They can be purchased at ticket offices and vending machines at all Metro stations, EMT booths, and at tobacco and newspaper kiosks throughout the city.

For Madrid event listings, check out these links:
http://www.whatsonwhen.com/partners/amadeus/page.asp?file=madrid
http://www.munimadrid.es/Principal/ingles/portada.html

Best Way To Get Around:

On Foot

Madrid is surprisingly compact; if you’re staying near kilometer zero or elsewhere between the Parque del Retiro and the Palacio Real you’ll find that many of the major sites are within comfortable walking distance.

Metro

Madrid’s Metro system is extensive, reliable, and inexpensive. Consisting of twelve lines, it connects with the RENFE national system at three stations: Atocha, Chamartin, and Principe Pío. Metro tickets are valid for all stations (except Line 9 between the Rivas Urbanizaciones and Argancia del Rey stations) and at any EMT (bus) station. Line 8 offers inexpensive transportation from Barajas Airport into Madrid. The Metro de Madrid web site has all the information you need, including route maps and some cool interactive tools.

Buses

EMT operates Madrid's bus network. The Metro covers the city so thoroughly however, that I can’t imagine why anyone would want to take the bus unless it’s late at night (1:30 a.m. to 6 a.m.) when the Metro stops running. Night buses cover about twenty routes that depart Plaza de la Cibeles on the half hour from midnight to 3 a.m. and on the hour from 3 a.m. to 6 a.m., when the Metro starts running again.

Occupying a former palace constructed in 1920, this moderately priced three-star hotel, fully renovated in 2001, offers 76 rooms in a great location, just a short walk from Puerta del Sol and the Sol Metro stop.

Bleary-eyed after our overnight flight from the States, we arrived at the hotel around 9:45 a.m., fully expecting to drop off our bags and then return in the afternoon to check in. So we were thrilled when the desk clerk told us if we wouldn’t mind waiting, our room would be ready at ten o’clock. After about 10 minutes he called us over, and moments later we were checked in. Let me tell you, to be unpacked and refreshed (after lying down for twenty or thirty minutes) still hours before the posted 3 p.m. check in time was a huge plus. Energized after our brief but precious downtime, we got a lot more of our first day because they were so accommodating.

We were struck by how large our room was. A corner room on the first floor, it had large windows and double doors that opened to a narrow balcony, allowing sights and sounds from the street to flood in from below. Heavy curtains stifled most of the light, if desired. There were two twin beds pushed together (typical of European hotels), a small but comfortable couch, desk, and computer. Inside the roomy double closet was a safe, operated free of charge by using one of your credit cards. We liked the neutral tones and the honey-colored, Pergo-style flooring. Call us geeks, but our favorite feature had to be the computer and free high-speed internet connection.

The bath featured attractive marble tile and had a bidet, tub, and separate shower. Somehow they found enough extra room to squeeze in an exercise bike as well.

If you come across this hotel on one of the countless hotel reservation web sites, there’s a good chance you’ll find the standard copy points the marketing folks back in the home office came up with. Among the most prominent of these is that the hotel is situated on a peaceful, pedestrian-only street. One envisions a narrow side street, somehow shut off from the hustle and bustle of Madrid. Well, it is surrounded by pedestrian-only streets. But peaceful? Not exactly. What they don’t tell you is that the hotel is smack dab in the middle of what must be the busiest stretch of pedestrian traffic in all of Madrid. I mean, I’d be willing to bet that thousands of people walk past this hotel each day, at all hours of the day and night. What’s more, there are plenty of vehicles around, especially during the day when delivery trucks crawl amongst the crowds to service the nearby retail shops and restaurants.

This small truth in advertising gripe aside, we loved this hotel and found the staff to be gracious and friendly.

Additional information:District: Old Madrid
Metro: Sol (L1, L2, L3)
Fax: +34 915 314 101

Exploring the streets near our hotel for a suitable dining experience on our first day in Madrid, it became apparent that we’d wandered into the red-light district north of Gran Via (you can draw your own conclusions as to what we saw). Undeterred, we continued perusing the menus in each restaurant window. On Calle de la Ballesta we found a tiny place called La Villa de Luarca. What caught our eye was their three-course meal offering: appetizer, entrée and dessert (including bread, wine and tax) for the unbelievably low, low price of 7.20€. That’s less than US$9.00, for those of you keeping score at home.

We gave each other that "Are you kidding me?" look, but decided to throw caution to the wind and let our hunger cast the deciding vote. We walked in and were seated, quickly realizing only one other table was occupied. Not a good sign. Trying to put a positive spin on the situation, I made a note of the high table-to-waiter ratio of 1:1. Our servers this evening were two forlorn looking elderly gentlemen, impeccably dressed in black dinner jackets. One was apparently the owner, the other perhaps his brother.

We were handed menus, and bread and wine were served. A few minutes later our waiter returned and we ordered. We sipped the wine (admittedly it wasn’t very good, but what do you expect for 7.20€?) and took in our surroundings: just one other couple other than ourselves in the whole restaurant. The sound of a talk radio station spilled out from the kitchen.

We plowed through our appetizers (mine was a delicious plate of mushrooms smothered in a tomato-based sauce), then our entrées were served. The Better Half raved about her paella with chorizo and morcilla sausages. My roasted chicken was about the best chicken I’ve ever had. A leg, thigh and breast simply prepared but flavorful and juicy, with the meat almost falling off the bone. This was a very bipolar dining experience. The food was fantastic, yet the place was practically empty. After a while we finished our wine (no matter how bad it was, it still produced a buzz) and desserts (strawberries and cream).

Then came the bill, and there it was: 14.40€ for this feast, this celebration of Spanish cuisine. The food was so good and we felt so sorry for the two waiters that we returned the following night. (Feeling sorry for the staff is not a very compelling reason to patronize a particular dining establishment, but at least we knew the food would be good.) To our amazement, on the second night we were the only customers the entire evening. This did, however, improve the table-to-waiter ratio to a mind-boggling 1:2.

Hands down, La Villa de Luarca was the biggest bang-for-your-buck eats we had in all of Spain, never mind Madrid. They just need to get some people in the door.

My 1-10 ratings:
Food - 9; Service - 8; Atmosphere - 4

Additional information:
District: Old Madrid
Metro: Gran Via (L1, L5)

We stumbled upon Colonia del Sacramento purely by accident as we walked from the Palacio Real to Plaza Mayor. A yellow flier in the window caught The Better Half’s eye: "Tango: Thursday, Friday and Sunday nights" was the gist of the message.

Now, The Better Half loves to tango, and she is an excellent Argentine tango dancer. It’s through her that I became involved in it, and well, let’s just say that she makes me look good, and I’ve mastered enough to make myself not look like an idiot (most of the time, anyway). Once we checked out the menu and deemed the cuisine acceptable, we made a mental note of our location, knowing we would be back.

After a pre-dinner beer and olives at the Plaza Mayor, we returned to the scene of our discovery. Turns out that Colonia del Sacramento is a Uruguayan restaurant, which explains the tango connection (Uruguay lies just across the Plata de la Rio from Buenos Aires, the birthplace of tango). I’m not sure how many people are privy to the subtleties of Uruguayan cuisine, so let me see if I can sum up the basic concept for you in just two words: grilled meat.

While there’s something here for most everyone, the menu does favor red meat grilled over an open flame. We ordered a bottle of red wine, salads, flank steak, and beef ribs. Both entrees were accompanied by French fries, and as near as we could tell were prepared using the same marinade. Interestingly, the inch-thick ribs were cut crossways through the bone, sort of flying in the face of conventional rib wisdom, I suppose. Maybe it’s just a Uruguayan thing. Nonetheless they were delicious, as was the steak. We finished off our meal with desserts; mine was a decadent panqueque dulce.

The atmosphere at Colonia del Sacramento is quite pleasing: dark, rich colors, brickwork, and thick, sturdy ceiling beams. Original paintings depicting tango musicians and dancers enhanced the theme, and a couple of faux window frames made of the same stout wood as the ceiling beams added a nice touch. The kitchen, located in the back corner, is open to the dining room, accentuating the dining experience with the scents and sizzles of the grill. There’s also an enclosed terrace, which makes for pleasant dining in good weather.

Lest we forget about the tango, which is what brought us here to begin with, remember? After inquiring with the manager, we learned that what was in store for us was not a dance open to dinner guests, but a "performance", or what we’d call demonstration tango. In other words, do-not-attempt-this-at-home-tango. As promised, the dancers came out for two or three numbers for what I’d describe as a very athletic, albeit crowd-pleasing performance.

All told, Colonia del Sacramento offers fine food and a very unique and eminently enjoyable dining experience.

My 1-10 ratings:
Food - 7; Service - 7; Atmosphere - 7

Additional information:
District: Old Madrid
Metro: Ópera (L2, L5)

Puerta del Sol (Gateway of the Sun) is in many ways the very heart of Madrid. A half-moon shaped confluence of ten streets, Puerta del Sol is highlighted by Kilometer Zero, a small plaque in the sidewalk demarcating the point from which all of Spain’s highway distances are officially measured. Several of Madrid’s most important streets originate at this junction, which used to mark the gated east entrance of the old city.

Take Calle de Mayor west to Plaza Mayor, Plaza de la Ville and Madrid’s City Hall. Follow Calle del Arenal to the Teatro Real (Opera House) and the Palacio Real. Calle de Alcalá to the east leads you the Plaza de Cibeles, the Parque del Retiro, and well, you get the picture.

Landmarks other than Kilometer Zero also stake their claim in Puerta del Sol. Madrid’s iconic bronze statue El Oso y El Madroño (The Bear and the Strawberry Tree) is at the north end of the square at Calle de Carmen.

An equestrian statue of Carlos III looks out over the large red brick building at the south end, which was once the main post office. The Casa de Correos, constructed between 1766 and 1768, was a feared place during Franco’s dictatorship when it served as the Main Directorate of Security. Today it’s the headquarters of the Community of Madrid Autonomous government, which is the equivalent to a state capital building in the U.S.

But enough about the lay of the land. The Puerta del Sol has also been the site of one of the most important events in Spain’s history. On May 2, 1808, an uprising against occupying French forces under Napolean’s command began here. But the crowd of villagers proved to be little more than a bug on the windshield of the well-equipped French troops, who overwhelmed them. The following day, remaining resisters were summarily executed. These events signaled the start of the armed Spanish resistance which dragged on in guerrilla warfare until 1814, and are depicted in Goya’s two masterpieces, May 2 1808 and May 3 1808: The Executions at Principe Pio, both of which can be seen at the Museo del Prado.

The famous Tio Pepe sign dominates a rooftop at the east end of the square.

Today the Puerta del Sol is the bustling center of urban life in Madrid, lined with shops, restaurants, and cervecerías. There’s plenty of sensory overload here, with the clamor of traffic, police whistles, monotone cries of vendors hawking lottery tickets, and the overheard conversations of other passers by, with each sound having its moment in the spotlight as you work your way through crowds of pedestrians that never seems to dissipate, no matter what the hour.

Plaza Mayor dates back to 1620 when it was completed under the order of Felipe III, whose statue dominates the center of the square. After a series of fires, modifications completed in 1853 resulted in the structure that exists today. Once the sight of bullfights, coronations, trials under the Inquisition, and executions, Plaza Mayor is a focal point for the vibrant energy of today’s Madrid.

In the evening, crowds flock to the many outdoor cafes in Plaza Mayor.

This was our favorite place in all of Madrid. We loved the musicians serenading crowds in the outdoor cafes. The centuries old cobblestone under our feet (The Better Half and her three-inch heels might argue this point). The atmosphere of this place. With more than four hundred balconies and over one hundred residences within its walls, dormer windows, and slate roofs, I can only imagine how fortunate one must feel to be able to call this place home.

The Better Half and I enjoying the vibe at Plaza Mayor.

It was here in Plaza Mayor at dusk one evening that we spotted a somewhat rare creature, but one that’s not altogether endangered either in Europe or the Americas. The species I’m referring to, of course, is waiterus ignorus, more commonly known as the ignoring waiter. I’m confident few have observed an example so spectacular, or one possessing such skill, cunning, and audacity. Blasé and utterly confident in his own element, this one was.

We’d selected an outdoor café, found a table shaded from the sun and settled in to enjoy a cold beer, some music, and take in a bit of people watching before dinner. Only the keen eyes of The Better Half spotted him in his natural environs. She raised her suspicions and after a few minutes of observation we exchanged knowing glances. There’s no question now: it’s a confirmed sighting.

The instant he sensed a predator was trying to make eye contact to order another round of beers or perhaps a tapas plate of calamari, he would look the other way and dart in the opposite direction like a Thompson’s gazelle spooked by lions on the hunt in the Serengeti. Well aware of his surroundings at all times, he was quick to maneuver around the cluttered arrangement of tables to the protection of one of his prime hiding spots such as his bus station, or better, he’d disappear inside the restaurant. He was masterful at looking busy doing something else. Ah, that plate of olives I forgot to serve! Gone! We watched in befuddled amazement for some time at this social dynamic, his little game of predator and prey. Sadly (for him), he was eventually snared, as an impatient but well-dressed Brit in slacks and a sport coat got up from his table in full pursuit, credit card in hand. A tap on the shoulder. Nowhere to run, now; nowhere to hide. The gig is up.

"La cuenta, por favor?"

The Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza is said to contain the most important private art collection in the world. The museum occupies the 19th century Palacio de Villahermosa, which was remodelled by architect Rafael Moneo to house the nearly 800 paintings. The collection was assembled by Baron Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza and his son, Hans Heinrich, and includes works by Caravaggio, Monet, Degas, Gauguin, van Gogh, Picasso, Hopper, O’Keefe, and many others.

As a fan of the impressionist, post-impressionist, and early modern styles, the Thyssen-Bornemisza was the Madrid museum I was most looking forward to seeing. But the museum has much more, including 18th century Venetian paintings, Flemish, French, German, Spanish, and Dutch works, and 20th century art.

The collection is arranged in chronological order, so I’m impatient as we walk through the early Renaissance and 16th and 17th century paintings. We keep our eyes open for Caravaggio’s works, but there’s only one on display.

Eventually we reach the impressionist part of the collection, and there’s a lot to admire here. There are several nice pieces by Alfred Sisley, Camille Pissarro, and Claude Monet, and a couple by Edgar Degas and Paul Signac.

The next viewing room contains the post-impressionist collection, and here’s where I spend the most time, as Gauguin, van Gogh, and Toulouse-Lautrec are three of my very favorites. The Thyssen has an incredible collection by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, including the lovely Redhead with white blouse (1889).

While there are only four works by Vincent van Gogh, the collection does span his Dutch, Arles, and Auvers-sur-Oise periods. We saw Landscape at Dusk (Nuenen: 1885), Coal Barges (Arles: 1888), and View of Vessenots Near Auvers (Auvers-sur-Oise: 1990). A fourth said to be in the museum’s collection, Water mill at Gennep (Nuenen: 1884) was not on display. With its vibrant yellows and blues, View of Vessenots near Auvers in particular seems to jump off the wall and outshine the other paintings in the room.

I also enjoyed the various styles in the 20th century collection, which included pieces by Georgia O’Keefe, Marc Chagall, Jackson Pollack, and Edward Hopper. Hopper’s Hotel Room (1931) was my favorite 20th century piece.

If you’re a fan of impressionist, post-impressionist, or 20th century art like myself, a visit to the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza is essential.

Additional information:
Web site: http://www.museothyssen.org/Ingles/index.htm
Metro: Banco de España (L2); Sevilla (L2).
Tel: +34 91 369 01 51
Fax: +34 91 420 27 80

The Museo Lázaro Galdiano is located in the former mansion the financier, editor, author, and art collector Lázaro Galdiano (1862-1947) built for his wife. He bequeathed the mansion and his collection of fine and applied art to the nation under the condition that the collection be displayed exactly as he’d left it.

You’ll find a heavy dose of 15th to 19th century Spanish art here, including works by El Greco and many lesser known pieces by Goya and Velázquez. Examples of the Italian, Flemish, English, French, and German schools are covered to lesser extent, although the collection does include a Rembrandt and paintings by British artists Turner, Constable, Gainsborough, and Reynolds. The museum has one painting attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, although there seems to be some confusion on this point. Depending on which resource you choose to believe, the da Vinci is either a painting, drawing, or a crucifix. We saw a painting called The Adolescent Savior which, based on our understanding, is the piece attributed to da Vinci.

There are nearly 13,000 pieces in all, including sculptures, ceramics, armor, jewelry, coins and other art objects encompassing and incredible range from the 4th century B.C. through the mid-twentieth century. Most of the paintings are from the 15th to 19th century. Whether you’re a fan of this kind art or not, you have to admit that the guy was a savvy collector.

Beside the paintings, ceramics, sculptures and applied art, the mansion itself provides plenty of eye candy. Salons are painted in bright, vibrant colors, accented by monstrous, incredibly ornate crown moldings and wainscoting. Look up! Elaborate murals adorn the viewing room ceilings. In one of the salons the figure in Goya’s The Nude Maja is whimsically worked into the mural.

We gave the applied art only a cursory glance since it’s not our cup of tea and spent most of our visit looking at the paintings. Some of Goya’s paintings here are from his black period and are quite strange, such as El Conjuro o Las Brujas and El Aquelarre (The Witches' Sabbath). Creepy. But if you’re a fan of Goya, Velázquez, El Greco, or any of the other artists mentioned, this museum is going to be worthy of your time.

Unlike the other activities in this journal, this museum is located outside the city center. It is way north on Calle de Serrano, past the American Embassy (Calle de Serrano 75). This is a hoof, boys and girls; it’s about seventeen blocks north of the Plaza de la Independencia. Visitors wishing to see this museum would be well advised to use the metro.

Additional information:
Web site: www.flg.es
Metro: Rubén Darío (L5); Gregorio Marañón (L7, L10).
Tel: +34 91 561 60 84
Fax: +34 91 561 77 93

The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia occupies what was once Madrid’s San Carlos Hospital, a late 18th century building that’s been updated with recent expansion and slick exterior glass elevators. The emphasis here is on 20th century Spanish art, and some of the obvious notables such as Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Juan Gris, and Joan Miró are among the artists given prominent space.

Picasso’s Guernica is by far the most famous painting at the Reina Sofia. Commissioned by the Republican government to create a mural for the Spanish Pavilion at the 1937 Paris World’s Fair, Picasso at first procrastinated, unsure what his subject would be. Then on April 26, 1937 the northern Spanish town of Guernica was bombed by Nazi warplanes in support of nationalist leader General Francisco Franco’s attempt to overthrow the republic. The bombing was one of the first instances of saturation air strikes against non-military targets. Although the exact death toll was never firmly established, an estimated 1,500 people were killed and the town was leveled.

Picasso had his subject and immediately set to work. Initial sketches were produced within 5 days of the incident, and despite the size of the piece (roughly 11.5ft x 25.5ft) he completed the painting by June 4. The stark black, gray and white canvas is rich in symbolism. At the left a woman wails with a dead child in her arms. An exploding light bulb is a possible reference to air warfare. A horse wounded by a spear is said to represent the Spanish people. And there’s much more.

The painting still has an impact today. In early February of 2003, a tapestry reproduction at the entrance of the United Nations Security Council was covered with a blue curtain, as officials deemed it inappropriate for Colin Powell to speak about the prospect of war in Iraq with the 20th century's most iconic protest against it as a backdrop.

Elsewhere there’s a nice example of the cubist style by Juan Gris, Portrait of Rosette (1916). Man With a Pipe (1925) and Portrait (1938) are two of the exceptional Miró pieces in the collection.

Dalí also receives hero status here, and Dalí is where 20th century art tends to escape me. Having been to the Dalí museum in Paris, however, I knew what I was in for. While I can certainly appreciate Dalí’s skill as a painter, his message pretty much escapes me. I mean, when one of his paintings has a grasshopper, a fish hook, ants, and a male torso in underwear (just to name a few), I can’t help but wonder what exactly it is he’s trying to tell me. I left the Dalí room defeated and frustrated trying to understand his work.

Your artistic leanings aside, Guernica alone makes the Reina Sofia worth a visit.

Additional information:
Web site: http://museoreinasofia.mcu.es/
Metro: Atocha (L1)
Tel: +34 91 467 50 62
Fax: +34 91 467 31 63

I suppose you could call the Museo Nacional del Prado Madrid’s version of the Louvre. The museum contains paintings from the 11th - 19th centuries, classical sculptures, drawings, and decorative arts. As one might expect, there’s a heavy dose of Spanish art here, and the Prado’s collection of Spanish paintings from the 11th - 18th centuries is the most thorough in the world. If names like El Greco, Rembrandt, Botticelli, Raphael, Caravaggio, Goya, and Velázquez trip your trigger, then the Prado is for you.

Besides Spanish art, you’ll also see large collections from the Italian, Flemish, Dutch, and French schools. The German collection is smaller. Italian paintings (1300-1800) cover the gamut from the early Renaissance to the eighteenth century. There are also Greek and Roman sculptures.

The part of the museum that seemingly gets the most attention is Hall 89, where Goya’s two paintings The Clothed Maja and The Nude Maja can be found. Not unexpectedly, these two works caused a big scandal in their day, and were deemed to be obscene by the Inquisition in 1815.

For me personally, the most stunning pieces by a wide margin were Goya’s two documentary masterpieces depicting the uprising against occupying French forces on May 2, 1808 and the subsequent executions of the remaining resisters the following day. Both paintings are located side by side in room 39 of the Villenueva Building, and project a powerful message.

In The 2nd of May, 1808 Goya depicts the brutality of war. Local villagers armed with little more than knives clash with members of the well-armed French Calvary.

In The 3rd of May, 1808: The Executions on Principe Pio Hill Goya’s victim, harshly illuminated by a bright lantern, is dressed in a clean white shirt, and his outstretched arms bear resemblance to the Crucifixion. The physical features of the firing squad are obscured, yet their uniforms are painted in precise detail. The silhouette of the church is the only detail visible in the dimly lit background. Interestingly, although the painting was commissioned by the state, it was held in storage and went unseen by the public for forty years after it was painted.

The grounds outside the Museo Nacional del Prado.

Most of the Prado’s collection is not what I’d consider closely aligned with my own personal tastes. But that’s not to say there’s not a lot to like here: I’m a bit of a sucker for Caravaggio, so I enjoyed seeing David and Goliath, and I can appreciate Botticelli’s The Story of Nastagio degli Onesti (first episode). And after all, spending time in Madrid and not seeing the Prado would be like being in Paris and not going to the Louvre or visiting Florence and skipping the Uffizi.

Additional information:

District: Bourbon
Metro: Banco de España (L2), Atocha (L1)

Introduction

With more than forty public parks and gardens, Madrid boasts an abundance of greenery that rivals most any other major city in Europe. What’s more, these are some of the most beautiful and impeccably maintained parks I’ve seen. Here’s a primer on just a few of Madrid’s most popular sites.

Parque del Retiro

The Parque del Retiro is Madrid’s most famous park. Once the playground for Spain’s monarchs and their guests, it encompasses over 350 acres in Bourbon Madrid. The heart of the park is a large boating lake, where you can rent a rowboat or enjoy a leisurely lunch on the steps of the crescent-shaped colonnade below the equestrian Monument of Alfonso XII.

The boating lake and Monument of Alfonso XII at the Parque del Retiro.

Besides the boating lake, there are plenty of fountains, statues, flowerbeds and walkways. The areas near the entrances (Calle Alfonso XII, Calle Alcalá, Plaza de la Independencia and Avenida Menéndez Pelayo) are particularly well maintained. If you venture off on some of the less traveled paths, however, you’ll find that the foliage is more or less left to its own devices. There are many unpaved walking paths, and if there have been recent rains you can expect to encounter some puddles and general sogginess that may force you to retrace your steps and head for higher ground.

The Retiro reminds me of New York’s Central Park. With children's play areas, numerous outdoor cafes, picnic pavilions, a puppet theater, and exhibition hall, there never seems to be a shortage of activity. We took a leisurely stroll through the park after visiting the Museo del Prado, and returned a couple of days later to enjoy a lunch of bread, cheese, fruit and serrano ham we’d purchased at the Mercado de San Miguel as we sat on a bench overlooking the lake.

Additional information:
Location: Calle Alfonso XII
Metro: Retiro (L2); Ibiza (L9); Atocha (L1)

Parque del Oeste

Occupying high ground above Rio Manzanares, the Parque del Oeste lies at the western edge of Madrid. Designed in the English style by Cecilio Rodríguez early in the 20th century, this is one of the best landscaped and most meticulously maintained parks I’ve ever seen. The area around the park is quite hilly, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes and be prepared to climb stairs and navigate some steep sidewalks.

You’ll find spacious green lawns, large shady trees, and sandy walking paths. It appears to be the park of choice for college students from the nearby university whom, if the weather’s nice, you’ll see studying, sunbathing, or idly passing the time. In the lower half of the park you’ll find the Rosaleda, or rose garden, where a rose show is held each spring.

Looking eastward at the two gateways of the Templo de Debod.

At the southern end of the park is Templo de Debod, an Egyptian temple dating back to the 2nd century B.C. The temple was recovered from an area flooded by the construction of a dam, and was given to Spain in honor of the participation of Spanish engineers in the project. It’s been reassembled in a stunningly beautiful setting along with two of the original three gateways, which are surrounded by a u-shaped pond. The Templo de Debod alone makes a trip to the Parque del Oeste a must see for visitors to Madrid. As an added bonus, a scenic view of the Palacio Real can be enjoyed just west of the temple. This was probably my favorite park in Madrid.

Additional information:
Location: Paseo del Pintor Rosales
Metro: Moncloa (L3, L6); Argüelles (L3, L4, L6); Principe Pío (L6, L10)

Campo del Moro

The Campo del Moro, or Field of the Moor, just west of the Palacio Real, is highlighted by an enormous lawn and shady walking paths, and offers a spectacular view of the palace. The park gets its name from a Moorish army led by Ali be Yusuf, who camped here in 1109 when his troops fought against the Christian army during the reconquest of Spain. The site has had a checkered past. It’s been a jousting ground for knights and a luxurious playground for children of the royal family. It was closed under General Franco, and was not reopened until 1983.

Immaculately maintained lawns at Campo del Moro, with the Palacio Real in the background.

Today, the only way into the park is from the northwest entrance on Paseo Virgen del Puerto. With just one way in and one way out, either take the metro to Principe Pío or allow plenty of time and energy for a lengthy walk down Cuesta de San Vincente.

With such a gorgeous view of the Palacio Real, the Campo del Moro is a worthwhile endeavor. We planned an itinerary with visits to both Parque del Oeste and the Campo del Moro, since both parks are in such close proximity. We walked from our hotel to the Parque del Oueste, and then headed down Cuesta de San Vincente to the entrance on Paseo Virgen del Puerto. By this time we were ready for a rest, and hung around just long enough to take a few photos and cool off under a canopy of shady trees.

Additional information:
Location: Paseo Virgen del Puerto
Metro: Principe Pío (L6, L10)

Plaza de Oriente

The Plaza de Oriente occupies a small tract of land that lies just east of the Palacio Real. Originally carved out of during the reign of Joseph Bonaparte, the garden as it exists today was constructed in 1930 in honor of an architect who served under Carlos III. An equestrian statue of Felipe IV by Italian sculptor Pietro Tacca dominates the center of the garden. Lining the perimeter walkways are statues of early kings that were originally intended for the roof of the palace until someone realized they’d be too heavy.

Statues of medieval kings stand watch over the walkways at the Plaza de Oriente.

On the perimeter of the garden opposite the palace there are numerous sidewalk cafes. We enjoyed relaxing over a frosty beverage as we gazed at the pristine setting before us. One would expect the cafes here to be overrun with tourists due to the plaza’s proximity to the Palacio Real, but that was not the case, as this seemed to be a watering hole favored by well-to-do locals: all the better. This is a very peaceful and relaxing place. You’d expect more clamor so close to the palace, but it must be that most tourists are on a palace sightseeing mission and blow right by without taking much time to notice.

Additional information:
Location: Palacio Real
Madrid
Metro: Ópera (L2, L5)