Delightful Verona

Overview

Our family visited Verona during our one week stay in Venice. We found that the city is historic, romantic, beautiful and energetic all at the same time. The city's historic center contains many magnificent Roman ruins (second only to those of Rome). UNESCO recognized exceptional value of this amazing city adding Verona to the World Heritage list in 2000.

Quick Tips:

At the train station information office pick up Verona’s excellent tourist map. You need not hear from me that the Arena Amphitheater, Casa di Giulietta, Piazza Erbe and Piazza dei Signori, are all on the list of breathtaking must-sees. These are classic, world famous sites that no one should miss, and everyone already knows to visit. What I can suggest is simply this: choose at least one less known site to visit that will make magic Verona your own. Also, if you can, see a production in the Arena, the nearly intact Roman Amphitheater. A highest point of your trip to Verona (literally) will be to ascend the Torre dei Lamberti. Visitors staying more than a day should buy the 4 day Carta Verona , which will pay for itself after 3-4 sites. For a day there is a pass also which costs euro5. They are on sale at most churches and museums in the city.

Best Way To Get Around:

The best way of getting around this great city is by foot - Verona is Italy at its most charming. To get a more in-depth tour of the city, you might consider using the tourist bus service; it could be a tour bus called "Romeo”.

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Campo San Trovaso Apartments

Hotel | "Apartment at Campo San Trovaso"

Our base for a week - the Campo San Trovaso apartment in Venice is one of the best places we have ever rented in Europe. The beautiful apartment, located in central but quiet position, immersed in the mystic atmosphere of Venice, offers its guests serene, silent and welcoming surroundings. The apartment located on the second floor (European first) in the 3-storey house, in the quiet and charming area of Dorsoduro, only a few steps from San Trovaso Church and the Zattere promenade on the lagoon. Location could not be better - on a quiet canal Ria Ognissanti (All Saints) near the Squero di San Trovaso - a picturesque gondola-maker’s workshop, one of the most significant sites in Venice. It is here that gondolas are made and repaired by skilled craftsmen, whose art has been handed down from father to son since the 17th century. From the apartment its guests can easily get to the famous Venice’s landmarks: just 15 minutes walk from Piazza S. Marco, 5 minutes on foot from Madonna della Salute, and the Accademia delle Belle Arti is 200 m away. Boat stop "Zattere" with services to the railway station and Piazza Sam Marco 150 m. The Billa supermarket, the cheapest and the best in Venice, is only 300 m away. The 3-room apartment, is huge by the Venetian standards, 90 square meters. This charming property has been furnished and equipped to meet high standards. The high ceilings, comfortable furniture, outdoor terrace and airy rooms create a very relaxing environment. First you see the entrance hall with dining table and TV (local channels). Small living room with balcony overlooking the canal. First bedroom with two beds. Master bedroom has queen bed and exit to the terrace. On the terrace there is a table, four chairs, and a sunshade overlooking the alley and the Rio Ognissanti canal. The terrace offers fantastic view over the picturesque canal and the neighbor palaces. You can spend hours drinking your coffee / wine / tea / having meal and watching as the world goes by. Fully equipped kitchen with oven, microwave and fridge. Lovely decorated bathroom with bath , shower, bidet, washing machine and WC. Second WC (separate). A word of advice – if you decided to stay here then book the apartment several months in advance.

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by Tolik on August 15, 2004

Campo San Trovaso Apartments
Campo San Trovaso, Dorsoduro Verona, Italy

Rosticceria Cinese Castelvecchio

Restaurant | "Rosticceria Cinese Castelvecchio"

Across the street from the Old Castle this inexpensive but good quality café offers Chinese take-out food . Open 1.30 – 14.30, 17.30 – 22.00.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Rosticceria Cinese Castelvecchio
Verona, Italy
(04) 5800-3981

Walking Tour

Attraction | "Verona Walking Tour Part One"

The old Verona enclosed in a “bend” of the Adige River, has two focal points – the amazing Roman Amphitheater on the Piazza Brà and fantastic market square called Piazza Erbe. You will need a day to enjoy the beautiful city but remember that almost everything is closed on Monday. From the train station right behind the ancient walls, we entered Piazzale XXV Aprile, crossed Via Luciano del Cero and entered historic town of Verona. On the tree-lined Via Alfresco Oriani we turned right and arrived at the main drag – wide boulevard Corso Porta Nova. It takes 10 minutes or so to reach Piazza Brà from here (alternatively, you can take a bus from the train station). You enter the square underneath the double arch with a clock. The Gran Guardia palace is on your right. Cross the island of green and tranquility in the center of the square and you see the magnificent Roman Amphitheater. We walked around the Arena and took ancient Via Leoncino (the Lion St). A few minutes later we arrived at the intersection with Via Carpello and found here the ancient Porta Leone (Lion Gates) – the street took its name from the town gates. Significant part of the area is an archeological dig now – you can see the Roman ruins from above. Turn left here and a few minutes later you can see hundreds of people coming into or leaving from a courtyard on the right side of the street – a sign that you are about to see the Casa di Giulietta. After paying our respects to the fake Juliet balcony we continued to walk along Via Cappelo to the lovely Piazza Erbe. This is one of the most charming Italian squares we have ever seen.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Walking Tour
Old Town Verona, Italy

Walking Tour

Attraction | "Verona Walking Tour Part Two"

Walking through the Arco della Coste you arrive in the third famous square - Piazza dei Signori. Dante's statue stands in the center of the square. The famous poet looks happier here than the Dante’s monument on the Florence’s Santa Croce square. Continuing northwards, visitors come in sight of the amazing tombs of the Scaligeri family. Eighty yards later turn right at Via Arche Scaligeri to see Casa di Romeo. Retrace your steps and walk along Via Sottoriva where you will enjoy the view of the beautiful banks of the Adige River. Very impressive St Anastasia Church, the largest in the city, is on your left. A small square by the river is your second chance to enjoy a beautiful view of the restored Roman Theater. From the square you can reach ancient Ponte Petra (the Stone Bridge). Original bridge was built in the 1st century and restored by the Scaligeri family using original material. It is only a stone's throw from the Duomo (Cathedral), an amazing mix of the Romanesque and Gothic styles. Do not miss the picturesque cloisters behind the cathedral. Walking south towards the castle, you can see the Porta Borsari (Borsari Gate) – one of the main entrances to the Roman Verona. From Porta Borsari we walked along Corso Cavour to the Old Castle (Castelvecchio). The castle is the largest and the most impressive of the Scaligeri buildings. If you have enough time then you can also visit St Zino church; otherwise turn left towards Piazza delle Erbe.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Walking Tour
Old Town Verona, Italy

Piazza Bra

Attraction | "Piazza Brà"

The Piazza Brà (Brà square) is an excellent starting point for a short visit to Verona. The square takes its name from braida, a deformation of the old German word breit meaning "clearing" that once stretched out before the city. On your right is Museo Lapidario Maffeiano, one of thee oldest museums in Europe. If you are a history buff , this is the place for you – everything from the Ancient Romans to the Holy Roman Emperors, plus Greek exhibits and Etruscan funerary urns. Nearby is neo-classical Palazzo Barbiari; it houses the Town Hall today. Grand Guardia palace was built for military uses. To the west is a wide pavement called the “Liston”. It is made of the red Valpolicella marble. The wide footpath follows the curving line of the buildings around the square. This is the favorite meeting place of the Veronese people, where they most frequently come take la passagiata - a stroll.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Piazza Bra
Piazza Bra, 1 Verona, Italy 37121

L'Arena di Verona

Attraction | "Arena di Verona"

The northern part of the Brà Square is dominated by the Arena Amphitheater. The name Arena comes from the Latin word for sand, which covered the area where the games were held. This is the best-preserved amphitheater in Italy (and the third largest in the world). It was built in 30 AD and could seat about 30,000 spectators. What makes this amphitheater unique is the second Outer wall, over 30 meters high. Only part of it - four arches in three levels - survived the earthquake in 1117. This part is called “Ala” or ‘Wing”. Every summer since 1913 operas have been held at the Arena, the largest open-air theatre of its kind. During our visit they were preparing for the different kind of entertainment. We were told that Sting was planning to perform at Arena di Verona in June.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

L'Arena di Verona
Piazza Bra Verona, Italy 37121
+39 (045) 8003204

La porta dei Leoni

Attraction | "Porta Romana dei Leoni"

The ancient city gate Porta Romana dei Leoni is one of the most interesting remains of Roman Verona. Dating from the 1st century A.D., it originally consisted of two towers – only one survived. As for the lions (the gates’ name came from a sarcophagus lid bearing two lions) – they are in the gardens down the road opposite the San Fermo church. Recent archeological excavations in the area of the Gate have revealed its foundations as well as extensive sections of the road paving and the base of a ancient Roman tower. Everything is clearly visible in the specially constructed protective enclosure in the middle of the road flanking the Gate.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

La porta dei Leoni
Via dei Leoni Verona, Italy 37121

La Casa di Giulietta

Attraction | "Casa di Giulietta"

In the beginning of the 20th century local authorities identified the Juliet’s house with a medieval dwelling at 23, Via Cappello. The house dates back to the 13th century and has a brick façade with large windows. Yes, this building once was owned by the Dal Cappello, or Capulet, family. It does not really matter that the house was an inn once known as il Cappello and horse-stall. The city of Verona acquired it in 1905 and restored the building. In 1935 Hollywood’s movie Romeo and Juliet made its way to the movie theatres; local authorities immediately added the famous balcony and opened Casa di Giulietta to the public. Now this is an obvious tourist trap but nevertheless worth visit… Dozens of people stay in the line to approach a bronze statue of Juliet and rub her breast (for good luck in love I guess). Other visitors add countless graffiti and glue the love notes on the walls of the house – you will be impressed by the great amount of love confessions. FYI - - there is a nice souvenir store in the courtyard. And just a couple of steps down the street, you can find another little shop called “Romeo e Giulietta” selling R+J souvenirs…

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

La Casa di Giulietta
Via Cappello, 23 Verona, Italy 37121
+39 045 8035645

Piazza Erbe

Attraction

Piazza Erbe was the site of the Roman Forum. The "Square of the Herbs" got its name because at one time only vegetables were sold here. Today it is one of the most beautiful city squares in Italy, and certainly the best in Verona. The lovely fountain in the center of the square is known as “La Fontana di Madonna Verona". It was constructed in 1368 re-utilizing a Roman statue and round basin from the Roman baths. On the left-hand side is the Romanesque building of the "Domus mercatorum", built in 1301 as the seat of the local Commune. At the farther end of the square is the massive Palazzo Maffei, the Baroque masterpiece. The palace was built in the 17th century and is crowned by a loggia with six statues representing Hercules, Jupiter, Venus, Mercury, Apollo and Minerva. On the opposite side of the square is the Palazzo del Comune built in 1193. Above it you can see the mighty tower of Torre dei Lamberti (275 ft / 84m). Some houses on the square bear traces of the 15th century frescoes. The stalls in the square display the tourist souvenirs, fruit and clothing (we could not resist temptation too). Above the tops of the umbrellas can be seen the column with the Lion of St Mark on top – it marks Verona’s absorption in the Venetian empire in 1405. The column was erected in 1523 but the lion we see now was re-made in 1886.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Piazza Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe Verona, Italy 37121

Piazza dei Signori

Attraction

A narrow street connects Piazza Erbe with Piazza dei Signori. Strange arch separates the squares. It is called Arco della Coste (the Rib Arch) named after the whale’s rib hung beneath. As the legend goes, the rib will fall on the first ‘just’ person to walk beneath it. It has never fallen, not even on various popes, not talking about us mortals. On the left-hand side you first encounter the façade of the Domus Nova, a Venetian style building from the 17th century. A monument with Dante's statue stands in the center of the square, to remind us of the poet's period in exile. The Renaissance-style Loggia del Consiglio is the most elegant and distinctive of all the buildings in the square. It is also called the Loggia di Fra' Giocondo, because its design is traditionally attributed to a Veronese monk. The statues above the loggia’s cornice represent famous Roman citizens born in Verona - Catullus Pliny, Macer, Vitruvius and Cornelius Nepos. Palazzo del Capitano was the home of the Verona’s military commanders. At the end of the square is the Palazzo degli Scaligeri, originally a 13th century building, the or Della Scalla (Scaligeri ) family ruled Verona from 1260 to 1387. In the courtyard behind the Arche Scaligere visitors can see the bizarre tombs of the Della Scala family. The tombs are easily visible through thy wrought-iron fence that incorporates the ladder – emblem of the family name (della scala means “the ladder steps”).

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Piazza dei Signori
Piazza dei Signori Verona, Italy 37121

La casa di Romeo

Attraction | "Casa di Romeo"

Casa di Romeo is a plain 14th century house at 4, Via delle Arche Scaligere . The local tradition claims that the dwelling belonged to the Montecchi, or Montagues (but some scholars say that the house actually belonged to some Cagnolo Nogarola). Frankly, the building is not particularly impressive but is one of the oldest in Verona. The façade is brick and still has remains of the original battlements. You would easily miss the place without the memorial plaque. Shakespeare’s line is on the wall too : "Romeo, Romeo, wherefore art thou Romeo "...Yes, it is a fact that the Montecchi and Capuleti families existed in 13th century Verona. The fact that they were on opposite sides of political battles that swept Italy was recorded by Dante Alligheri who lived in Verona from 1299-1304 (remember the monument on the Piazza dei Signori?). The actual existence of a Giulietta Capuleti (or Cappello) or Romeo Montecchi is not documented, although they were fairly common names at the time in Italy. Unlike with Casa di Giulietta, here we were the only people on the street (at least for several minutes necessary to make pictures and video).

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

La casa di Romeo
Via delle arche Scaligere, 2-4 Verona, Italy 37121
No phone available

Duomo S. Maria Matricolare

Attraction | "Santa Maria Matricolare"

Archeological excavations give evidence of the Christians presence in the area of the cathedral since the 4th century. Three basilicas have been built in turn on the site. Current cathedral was built in the 12th century and consecrated in 1187 although construction and decoration continued long after this date. Its façade is a blend of Romanesque and Gothic forms. I really like the cathedral’s amazing porch, consisting of a double baldachin supported by columns resting on stylized lion figures. The interior of the Cathedral is spacious and impressive. The interior rebuilt in Gothic style in 1444, is divided into three naves, with composite pillars of red marble supporting the arcades. The church contains numerous works of art, among them the splendid tomb of St. Agatha (at the end of the right aisle) dated 1353. The only work painted by Titian in Verona is the Assunta (Assumption), which he did in 1535 – you can find the painting in the first chapel on the left. I strongly recommend a visit to the cathedra’s cloisters , this is one of the most tranquil and beautiful places in Verona. Admission to the cathedral €5; cloisters are free. If you plan to visit more than one sight it would be better to buy the Verona Card for €12, it gives access to all the main monuments, churches and you can get around town on buses.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Duomo S. Maria Matricolare
Piazza Duomo, 13 Verona, Italy 37121

La porta dei Bòrsari

Attraction | "Porta Borsari"

The Roman gates are very unusual: three tier structure with two arches and a double row of windows above. Current gates were constructed at the end of the 1st century AD and restored in 265 under the Emperor Gallieno. The gate derives its name from the " borsarii", or bursars - the Roman customs - taxmen who collected tall on the goods brought to the city (Verona was a prosperous municipium; Roman citizenship was granted in 49BC). On the top of the gate can still be seen the inscription of the name given to the city under Roman rule: Colonia Augusta Verona.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

La porta dei Bòrsari
Via dei Bòrsari Verona, Italy 37121

Arco dei Gavi

Attraction

The Gavi’s arch stands on the small square on the riverbank. The four-sided arch was built in Roman times (1st century AD) for the Gavi, a wealthy Roman - Veronese family. The elegant square, where the arch used to stay, was originally situated in the center of Via Postumia, the street leading to the Castelvecchio. In 1796, during the Napoleonic wars, the Arch was damaged greatly. It was moved here and reconstructed only in 1933. From the riverbank beyond the arch you will enjoy the view of the beautiful Ponte Scaligero.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Arco dei Gavi
Piazzetta di Castelvecchio Verona, Italy 37121

Il ponte Scaligero

Attraction | "Castelvecchio e Ponte Scaligero"

The Old Castle at the Scaligero Bridge (Castelvecchio e Ponte Scaligero) is entered by the small, wooden drawbridge. The red - walled castle was built between 1354 and 1356 at the orders of Cangrande II della Scala to serve the dual purpose of residential place and stronghold. On the other side of the lawn in the internal courtyard can be seen the entrance to the museum (entrance to the courtyard is free). The museum now houses one of the best art galleries in the Veneto (outside Venice of course). The first part contains late Roman – early Christian stuff. The most interesting is the collection of Veronese art from 14 to 18th century (paintings, jewelry, frescoes). Outside the castle, a walkway offers views of the Adige River and picturesque bridge - Ponte Scaligero. It leads from the Old Castle to the other bank of the Adige River - built for escape of the Scaligeri family.

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by Tolik on August 14, 2004

Il ponte Scaligero
Corso Castelvecchio, 2 Verona, Italy 37121

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