To the average New York tourist, the outer boroughs are mystical realms best left to the daily commuters. Instead of Broadways, Guccis, or Spice Markets, there’s Queens Boulevard, Brooklyn Industries, and mom-and-pop diners. And how can quaint Prospect Park compete with grandiose Central Park, or Brooklyn’s Fifth Avenue with its Manhattan counterpart?
But to say you’ve had the New York experience, a venture outside Manhattan is essential. No, taking the L train into "East Village" Williamsburg doesn’t count. Park Slope, equal parts city sophistication and suburban homeliness, provides the perfect Brooklyn meeting point between the city and the outer boroughs.
The ideal serene introduction to Hipster Kingdom is achieved with the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens. Before arriving, though, you come to a harsh realization – it’s a pain the ass to get there on the grinding subway. Your options for the Gardens include taking the Q to Prospect Park or the 2 or 3 to Eastern Parkway, and since I’ve stepped on a bus maybe four times in the past 5 years, let’s skip that option altogether. Still, the Gardens provide an urban oasis worth enduring the decaying subway system.
When I ventured here with a hangover headache on one overly bright Sunday morning, the winding line made me stop and rethink my decision. It was May 1, the second day of the Sakura Matsuri (cherry blossom) Festival. Determined to go on, I sucked up last night’s recklessness and patiently waited. Then I flashed my old college ID for a discounted ticket—a habit I plan on continuing until I’m 30.
What appeared to be a modest-sized garden with only spots of cherry blossoms turned into a park-size monstrosity with rows of the celebrated trees. I shuffled briskly through domed conservatories of cacti, tropical flowers, and seemingly deformed plants, but because of the trapped heat, I firmly committed myself to the cooler outdoors thereafter.
Unsure if I had entered through the main gate, I continued in what seemed the opposite direction. Commanding trees stretched their thick, bulky arms, birds silently fluttered by, and rows of bright petals seduced me with their muted scents. My throbbing head calmed by the unpolluted air, I could see the end, or beginning, down a long row of scrawnier trees and shiny buds.
Lungs clear and eyes sparkling, by now it was midday, and lunch, my friend, was definitely on the horizon. Actually, even better were the crumbly brunch croissants and fresh-squeezed juices at Moutarde, at 239 Fifth Ave., at Carroll Street. But you have to get there first.
Somehow, you need to make your way off the R or M at the Union Street station. From the Gardens, it’s a labyrinth of subway transfers. Maybe you’d rather cross from the east side of Prospect Park to the west. The east side, known as Crown Heights, is more than a little sketch, but once in the park, you’re surrounded by strollers, runners, and walkers. At least there are giant signs on the park’s outskirts indicating which side you are actually on. Once outside on the west, any Brooklyn-ite with a hint of dignity can point you to Carroll and Fifth.
Moutarde’s purpose is to imitate a French bistro, right down to the sometimes aloof staff. A forgotten croissant is a minor annoyance, though, when the Mohawked bartender greets you with a shy smile.
After politely conveying your desire to sit, you are confronted with the biggest decision for the day: inside or outside. Even on July 31, it was cool enough for us to choose the latter. And although a few sweat droplets had appeared by the end, it was far better for our child-phobic ears than the inside, crowded with foursome families.
Eggs Florentine with a fresh, small side salad and home fries has become my fallback. Of course, there is also a side of extra-crispy bacon, a fresh-squeezed orange-and-grapefruit-juice concoction, and a deliciously flaky, soft croissant. (Forget my 2-hour workouts; I use the model explanation of a "high metabolism.") My entrée, though, with its silky Hollandaise sauce dribbled over smoothly poached eggs and lightly browned English muffins, is always the highlight.
But even I’m tormented by the second-hardest decision of any Brooklyn excursion: choosing between brunch staples and lunch specialties. Not only does Moutarde offer Eggs Florentine, French toast, and other breakfast goodies, but it also offers specials like steak and eggs and hearty meals like salmon and burgers. Those fresh-squeezed juices, coffee or tea, and a common assortment of brunch drinks can accompany your midday feast, as well. On my July trip, a mojito with a hint of rum and refreshing lime-and-mint mix cooled my warming veins.
With the sun moving into its late-afternoon nook, shopping was the obvious next activity. Fifth Avenue, decidedly the most active street in the Slope, has lengths of independent boutiques, burgeoning chains, record stores, flower shops… you get the point.
Veer through the incoming super-strollers for about a block, away from Union Street, to Lucia, at 272 Fifth Ave. My current favorite boutique, Lucia stocks small-label clothing and shoes and unique, well-designed jewelry. The young owner, who is often present, is as beautiful as she is endearingly sweet, and her mother, smiling behind the cash register, will be your number-one fan.
I bought my most complimented piece of clothing here: a short beige skirt with layers of lace and an intricately designed waist. What could have sold for $800 at Prada or Bergdorf was a comparatively mere $75. I continued on to buy a pair of Pilgrim-esque (in a good way) heels, which, I admit, have sat in my closet unworn. And just when I thought my 2-hour chat with the owner was over, the spunkiest purse caught my eye – a hot-pink number with silver glitter and dark wood handles. It sounds hideous, but in New York, hideous fashion is often "interesting." And a purse for $35? Not in Manhattan! Hell, not even in Staten Island! I was in love.
Pull yourself away from the delicate silver necklaces, just like I had to, and double back towards Union. Breeze on—or not—by kitschy trinket stores, Italian delis, and hair salons to Fifth Avenue’s emerging chain, Brooklyn Industries, at 206 Fifth Ave. I admit I have never left with bulging shopping bags, but with their tiny logo of the Brooklyn skyline, it’s the answer to subdued New York tourist paraphernalia. Eschew their messenger bags, which are a little pricey, at about $50. Instead, opt for their form-fitting girl shirts with creative Brooklyn proclamations, like Brooklyn’s two O’s spelled with the arches of the Brooklyn Bridge. They come in just right at around $25. Don’t worry, men, there are large versions for you all, too. And their offerings are one hell of a step from those omnipresent I Heart New York shirts.
When you feel yourself starting to fade, you’re ready for your plush, if tiny, Manhattan hotel room. But don’t stagger to the subway yet – you need a sugar rush for the long trip back. Enter Uncle Louie G’s, at 741 Union St., practically on Fifth. Having never tried the ice cream, I can only comment on their Italian ice, which is slightly thicker and definitely tastier than the supermarket variety of your childhood.
The Italian ices can’t be described as mouthwatering, outstanding, or heavenly; they are simply good. Plus, the variety of flavors, from fruity to chocolatey, lets tangy and rich exist peacefully in one cup. My personal mix tends to include at least one chocolate-heavy flavor, like Chocolate Peanut Butter Cup or Mudslide Mania. A regular—two scoops—only requires $1.50, which is virtual blasphemy in Manhattan.
Now you can go, but you have to promise one thing – you’ll catch a train that traverses the Brooklyn Bridge, like the N, Q, or D. You’ll only catch the edges of these two much-loved cities (yes, Brooklyn is its own city), but viewing the river nestled under the setting sun makes even weary eyes sparkle.