My favorite Kauai Beaches – 2nd Tier

Tip #1: I cannot stress this enough – EVERYONE (locals and visitors alike) MUST abide to warnings regarding the SURF SEASONS. Huge waves hit the north shore in the winter, while it is typically flat in the south. In the summer, it’s reversed, although the south side doesn’t get as big as the north. WHATEVER THE SEASON, if there are waves and you are unsure, the best advice I can give is: WHEN IN DOUBT, STAY OUT! Rip currents are often misunderstood and underestimated.

Quick Tips:

Tip #2: You don’t see this one in any tourist guide, but I’ve always wished that there were an effective venue to get the word out. Local Kauaians are very friendly people IN GENERAL. However, the beach, to them, is not only a source of recreation and relaxation (as it is for tourists), but it is also a source of FOOD. If you are visiting one of the beaches less frequented by tourists, please be mindful of any locals that might be fishing, spear-fishing, netting, etc. DO NOT swim or snorkel near the area they are trying to catch fish. Yeah, there are no laws against it, but it’s just COMMON COURTESY. This doesn’t mean you can’t approach them and chat with them – most would be very happy to share their experience with you, as long as you don’t come across as pushy and inconsiderate.

Best Way To Get Around:

This is where Harrison Ford crashed his biplane in the movie "Six Days, Seven Nights" – against the cliff on the south edge of the bay. In fact, a couple of surfer friends of mine were paid $100 just to stay OUT of the area while they were filming this. The beach fronts a private estate owned by Mandalay – a Hollywood film studio.

Before the recent controversy and lawsuits over beach access, this was one of my favorite camping beach – you see, camping anywhere is "technically" not allowed without a state-issued permit, but the limited accessibility of the bay made it impractical to enforce. However, now that the estate’s owner is miffed by the irrational activists trying to force the issue, officers are allowed through his property to enforce this law. Don’t get me wrong – this is still an exceptional beach: quiet, secluded, and great for fishing. We just can’t overnight it here anymore.

WHERE IT IS: Just north of Anahola, the beach fronts a large 100+ acre estate with no access from the north and difficult access along a cliff to the south. However, state law prevents anyone from deliberately blocking access to a beach, so this "private" beach is accessible to the public through a short but steep trail on the south side of the bay, followed by a trek over sometimes slippery lava boulders.

HOW TO GET THERE: Driving north from Kapa’a on Kuhio Highway and pass Anahola town. About 2 miles after Anahola Post Office, take a right on Papa’a Road, drive straight toward the ocean (the road tries to steer you to the right, but keep going onto the dirt road). Stop before the dirt road turns south along the cliff. Papa’a Bay is on your left and the unmarked trail starts on the bluff.

WHEN TO GO THERE: The east side of the island is the most unpredictable one as it doesn’t experience the drastic seasonal wave changes that the north and south shores have. However, in general, there are more "flat" days in the summer – not necessarily a good thing, if you’re looking for surf.

WHAT TO DO THERE: Now that we can’t camp here, we’re limited to fishing and diving off the reef during the day. When the waves are up, surfing is pretty good, though you have to paddle outside the bay – quite a bit offshore. There’s actually a popular surf spot (Flags Beach), with much easier access, just south of the bay.

WHERE IT IS: A couple of bays west of Ke’e Beach at the end of the road on the North Shore.

HOW TO GET THERE: This beach is only accessible by a 2-mile hike along the Napali Coast. Take Kuhio Highway north until it ends at Ke’e Beach – about 35 miles from Lihue Airport.

WHEN TO GO THERE: Late spring to mid-fall, when the waves are down. In fact, this is one of the several North Shore beaches that can literally disappear after a couple of large winter swells.

WHAT TO DO THERE: Due to the hike required to get to this beach, you won’t see any surfers/bodyboarders here. In the past, there were many nude sunbathers here. However, this activity has declined with the growing popularity of these trails along with the recent crackdown on this activity.

WHERE IT IS: A still rather secluded beach, south of Crater Hill in Kilauea, at the mouth of the Kahili River.

HOW TO GET THERE: Drive north from Kapaa and past Kilauea Farms (big sign on the left side of the road). Turn right on Wailapa Road, then left on a gravel road about ½-mile from the highway.

WHEN TO GO THERE: Beachgoers need to heed the winter warnings, as Kahili is technically on the North Shore. However, the bay actually faces northeast and is somewhat protected from the winter swells by the Kilauea Point, so it is considerably safer here than beaches to the west. On the flip side, the North Shore’s summer flat season doesn’t always apply here either. As with anywhere else, just exercise some common sense and – when in DOUBT, stay OUT.

WHAT TO DO THERE: Fishing here is OK – whipping near the river mouth for papi’o, or casting from the shoreline or the rocks along the west edge. However, there is only a limited reef system in the far east (right side) end, so we’ve never tried any diving or snorkeling. This is a good boogie-boarding beach, as not many surfers come here – waves are generally on the small side. A paddle upstream on a kayak and a short hike will take you to a small waterfall used in the film Jurassic Park.

WARNING!!! I recommend staying away from the river mouth area, especially after a big rain – Leptospirosis bacterial infections are often attributed to contact with the Kalihiwai River water.

WHERE IT IS: At the mouth of the Kalihiwai River, just past Kilauea and before Anini.

HOW TO GET THERE: On Kuhio Highway, about ½ mile past Kilauea Town, turn right on Kalihiwai Road and drive until it ends, about 1 mile. PLEASE AVOID PARKING ALONG THE ROAD as it is already very narrow. There are a couple of families that have lived there for several generations – this is their HOME. As always, just exercise common sense AND courtesy.

WHEN TO GO THERE: Once again, like all North Shore beaches in the winter, huge swells scream "Keep out!" to all but the most experienced surfers. Flat season begins late spring and lasts through early to mid fall.

WHAT TO DO THERE: There is no appreciable reef system in this bay, so the water is primarily for basic swimming – you’re not going to see much if you try snorkeling except maybe on the far east-end of the beach near the rocks. During the flat season, we bring our kayaks for the 45-minute paddle around the east point to neighboring Secret Beach (see write-up in my other beach journal). When the waves aren’t too big (spring or fall), this is an excellent place to "learn" to surf or boogie board.