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Kauai

Kauai: without the proposal, the wedding or the honeymoon!

Arriving in Lihue Airport and driving to our rented guest house for the weekMore Photos

by ext212

A June 2004 travel journal

Last Updated: December 13, 2004

Journal Usefulness Rating 6 out of 5
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Kauai: without the proposal, the wedding or the honeymoon! a 8-day itinerary from a couple who like each other enough to forego all that predictable fluff. Entries are arranged and titled per day so you can copy our entire itinerary and enjoy Kauai the way we did.

Arriving in Lihue Airport and driving to our rented guest house for the week
1. Hiking 11 miles in one trip and being rewarded with the most incredible views you only saw in the Jurassic Park movies.
2. Trying out the saimin and eating at the fine dining establishments all over the island.
3. Seeing so many people who look like ME and feeling very at home.
4.Not getting proposed to!

Quick Tips:

Stay at a small rental if you're like us who prefer not to spend money at an over-priced hotel. We were able to cook some of our meals which allowed us to have a decent breakfast before each day began, packed our lunches instead of buying whatever we could find, and ate home-cooked dinners when we did not want to take out or eat fast food.

Warning: groceries are also steep and prices are double what you pay for in the mainland. Go to Longs Drugs for extra toiletries (but really, try packing your own) or apply for a Safeway discount card to buy groceries.

Best Way To Get Around:

Rent a car, preferrably a Jeep or an SUV. Other people will recommend a convertible but a tiny car like that would have been beaten up at Barking Sand Beach. Gas is as expensive as Los Angeles and New York City. Contrary to what you hear about Kauai being the most rustic, the island has paved roads just like any big city.

A Bed of Roses on the East Shore
Before we left New York City, we searched for a guest house in Kauai; a place we could feel at home in for a week and drive to and from our daily activities without spending too much time on the road.

A Bed of Roses is on the East Shore, less than half an hour from Lihue airport and an hour away from the North and West shores, the farthest points you can go to in Kauai.

We had our own lanai, or patio, our own equipped kitchen with barbeque grill to cook some of our meals. We loved our king-sized bed and our spacious bathroom. We welcomed the strong water pressure.

As soon as we met Grethe (pronounced "Garita"), we were left alone the entire week -- just the way we like it. We felt so at home, we did not mind that our house was right below the entire family's.

Amenities include: DSL (but please leave your laptop at home!), king-sized bed, phone, cable, microwave, refrigerator, gas barbeque grill, coffee maker and grinder, snorkel gear, beach towels and beach chairs. They were all useful to us! There was also coffee, juice, rolls and cereals in the kitchen for our taking.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

A Bed of Roses
6581 B Puupilo Road Kauai, Hawaii
808-822-0853

Day 1 - Caffe Coco

Restaurant

Caffe Coco
Caffe Coco
4-369 Kuhio Highway
808/822-7990

We ate out a lot while we were in Kauai, and if I compare Caffe Coco (that's right, 2 Fs) with the more upscale restaurants in the resort hotels, it wins my vote. We found out that it's BYOB with a $5 corking fee, so we crossed the street to the Shell gas station mini-mart and bought ourselves a $7 bottle of Shiraz.

Dining is outdoors under a huge tent lit with torches. There is live Hawaiian and jazz music on Thursday nights. It's all very relaxing, except for the mosquitoes that devour your legs while you try to eat. Spray Off! Lotion and wear loose pants when you come in here for dinner. (They also have their own spray, and you can request for the citronella candles to be placed near your table.)
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Caffe Coco
Kuhio Highway South of Kapaa Kauai, Hawaii

Taqueria Norteños: At Poipu Plaza
Taqueria Norteños
Poipu Plaza
808/742-7222

After our morning hike and a quick break on the beach, it was time for lunch! We drove back to Poipu Plaza to visit Taqueria Norteños, because what else do you eat after that workout? Why, a burrito, of course! We ordered two lunch plates of chicken and beef burritos. Both came with rice, beans and salad. It's just the way you want Mexican food: fresh, warm and hearty!

There's a bench right outside, but we sat back in our car instead to eat. I was embarrassed to show the people of Hawaii how I devour my beef burrito. The Kukuiula Market is right next to the taqueria. We bought a couple of beers to match our lunch plates.

For dessert, we bought our first shaved ice in Kauai from a small stand called Island Ice Cream on the same strip. They have plenty of fruit juice flavors, so you can eat more than one and try them all!
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Tacqueria Nortenos
2827 A Poipu Road Koloa, Hawaii 96756
+1 808 742 7222

A Pacific Café: Don
A Pacific Café
Kauai Village Shopping Center
4-831 Kuhio Highway 220
Kapaa, HI 96746
808/822-0013
http://www.apacificcafe.com/

We made reservations for A Pacific Café before we left New York City because we heard how popular the restaurant is. Don't let the mall location fool you. A Pacific Café's chef, Jean Marie Josselin, has won accolades and praise from Zagat Survey and from the Honolulu Advertiser.

While nothing on the menu is new, I have to admit that minus the location, it is the fanciest restaurant on the island when it comes to food because of their presentation of fresh Hawaiian seafood and local vegetables.

I decided on the tasting menu with wine pairings, while my boyfriend went a la carte to have a taste of the other entrees on the menu.

First course: Deconstructed Ahi Roll with white truffle vinaigrette and Thai Coconut Curry Soup with Tiger Prawn (paired with San Giorgio Pinot Grigio)
Second course: Wok-charred Mahi Mahi (paired with Blackwing Chardonnay)
Third course: Wild Hamachi and Rock Shrimp Risotto (paired with Firestone Sauvignon Blanc)
Dessert: Milk Chocolate Creme Brulee (paired with Selbach Riesling)

Check out the photos below to see how good they looked!
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

A Pacific Café
4-831 Kuhio Highway #220 Kapa'a, Hawaii 96746
+1 808 822 0013

Hamura
Hamura's Saimin Stand
2956 Kress Street
808/245-3271

The origin of the term saimin was not made clear to us, because every time we asked the Chinese, they told us that it was from Japan. When we would ask the Japanese, they told us the Chinese came up with it. Saimin is essentially ramen, a hot noodle soup with scallions, fishcake, scrambled eggs and ham. If you know anything about Filipino food, I would say that this is more the invention of a hungry Filipino like me.

Hamura's Saimin Stand looked like an old-school diner with its Formica U-shaped counters. The sign urging customers not to stick gum underneath was put up by the Filipino women who run the place. For an hour in Kauai, I was home, talking to them in my language about our lives.

We ordered two saimin bowls with our chicken and beef barbeque skewers (definitely a Filipino addition, because they were sweeter than your usual teriyaki) . We also tried the lilikoi, or passion fruit, cake for dessert.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Hamura's Saimin Stand
2956 Kress Street Kauai, Hawaii
(808) 245-3271

Hawaiian Style Shave Ice: Sorry, they don
Hawaiian Style Shave Ice
Right outside Ha'ena Beach Park

There are two trucks right outside of Ha'ena and one of them is owned by a couple selling shaved ice.

I had a lot of shaved ice while in Kauai, but Hawaiian Style Shave Ice had the best fruit juices. My favorite is their mango-flavored shaved ice, and I happily spent $3 for one cup every time we drove by Highway 560.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Hawaiian Style Shave Ice
Outside Ha'ena Beach Park Kauai, Hawaii

Day 5 - La Cascata

Restaurant

La Cascata: Basking in the most beautiful light
La Cascata
Princeville Hotel
808/826-9644

We had yet to see the sun set in Kauai, and La Cascata promised one of the best dining views in the entire island. When I made reservations in New York City, I asked for a 6pm table by the windows so my boyfriend and I could see the sight. We were not disappointed.

La Cascata means "the cascade" because from the restaurant, you can see a waterfall from the mountains. As soon as you enter the Princeville Hotel, you can see the Mediterranean-inspired interior: iron gates, marble floors and pillars.

The menu also offers Mediterranean flavors, and their excellent wine list will make you wonder if you are really in Hawaii or if you're in Napa Valley. We opted for the complete three-course dinner for $52 a person. To start, I had the ahi and roasted beet tartare and my boyfriend chose the seared rougie foie gras with pickled mango salad. We feasted on the pan-roasted duck breast with caramelized fennel cake on sweet and sour onion jus and the crispy skin onaga with wild mushroom ragout. We could have gone home after those, but because we still had dessert coming, we took a break and walked outside the terrace to watch the sun set.

It was definitely an incredible view and the entire restaurant was basked in the most beautiful light. It seemed weird to be eating dinner with sunglasses on. But for a few minutes, the light of the setting sun was intense as we sat back enjoying our wine. The excellent and attentive service here was the best we've had around Kauai.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

La Cascata
4280 Kuhio Highway Princeville, Hawaii 96722
+1 808 826 9644

Smith
Smith's Tropical Paradise
Wailua Marina State Park
808/821-6895
http://www.smithskauai.com/paradise.html

The Smith family of Kauai has been around since the 1940s. Smith Senior came from England, settled and married in Hawaii. They are very proud of their mixed heritage and their history – the entire family is in one way or another involved in the family's businesses. They started as a boat excursion tour along the Wailua River and have since opened a fern grotto where wedding parties are held. Their luau is probably their most famous service offered almost every day (call ahead to make an appointment).

Luau is Hawaiian for "feast" and it is what comes to mind whenever you mention Hawaii. At Smith's Tropical Paradise, gates open at 5pm to let the visitors walk around the garden and tour the grounds. Starting at 6pm when the sun begins to set, an imu ceremony is performed where the pig that has been cooking underground for several hours is unearthed. Two of the younger Smith boys ("digging their way to college," said the host) blow their conches to give thanks to the spirits before digging the dirt to expose the oven pit.

After the imu ceremony, everyone is seated inside the clubhouse and the open bar begins. There is a never-ending flow of mai tais, the official cocktail of Hawaii made up of fruit punch and rum. There is also a separate open bar for other kinds of cocktails. It was our last night in Kauai: we made several trips to the mai tai bar.

Everything at Smith's was organized. Their experience in throwing luaus showed as soon as they called the guests to visit the food buffet row by row and family by family. There was so much food: several kinds of salad with interesting tropical-inspired dressings, Filipino adobo chicken, teriyaki beef, mahimahi and of course, the pig itself, which was the tastiest of them all. There was also an abundant fruit table for dessert.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Smith's Tropical Paradise
Wailua Marina State Park Kauai, Hawaii
(808) 821-6895

Ba Le Vietnamese Cuisine
Ba Le Vietnamese Cuisine
4-831 Kuhio Highway
Kapaa, HI 96746
808/823-6060

Before we dropped off our rental car our last day in Kauai, we decided to eat Vietnamese food in Kapaa. The food at Ba Le did not quite live up to expectations, especially after having had better Vietnamese food in other cities. It is, however, reasonable if you're craving those particular flavors.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Ba Le Vietnamese Cuisine
4-831 Kuhio Highway Kauai, Hawaii
(808) 823-6060

Na
Na'Aina Kai Gardens
4101 Wailapa Road
Kilauea, HI
808/828-0525

Between the 21 and 22-mile marker of Kilauea road on the island of Kauai is a haven for plant lovers. Na'Aina Kai, or "lands by the sea" in Hawaiian, is one of the most beautiful botanical gardens I've ever visited. It spans 240 acres full of hardwoods, orchards and themed gardens sprinkled with more than 60 bronze sculptures by George Lundeen and Joffa Kerr. There is also a maze, several ponds and a pristine sandy beach by the Pacific.

The garden is very popular, so you need to make advance reservations. Calling before you arrive in Hawaii is a good idea. We signed up for the 3-hour Stroll & Ride tour of the Formal and Wild Forest Gardens, which included the Children's Garden and the Carnivorous Plants Nursery. Each tour group is limited to 8 guests. Our guide, Mary, shared her knowledge of the gardens and of the co-founders, Mr. and Mrs. Doty.

Their Web site is beautiful. What we saw and experienced was naturally lusher than anything they have published online.

An hour and half stroll for $25 is the least expensive tour available. The most expensive goes up to $70 per person for a 5-hour tour. Our tour was $35 each - it's pretty steep for a tour in an island that's already defined as a "garden." But it was worth it.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Na'Aina Kai Gardens
4101 Wailapa Road Kauai, Hawaii

Kilauea Lighthouse:
Kilauea Lighthouse
Kilauea Road
Kilauea, HI
808/828-1413

I became fascinated with lighthouses and their histories after my adventure in Maine. So I had to visit the Kilauea lighthouse at the northernmost part of Kauai. A lot of birdwatchers visit this spot because the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge is right next door, home to native seabirds like boobies (I love saying that!) and albatross. We stood on Crater Hill which was a part of a long-lost volcano that is now open to hikers, marveling at these huge birds that were nearly flying over our heads!

The lighthouse is open every day up to 4pm. If you just want to see it from afar, standing by Crater Hill is enough of a sweeping view. It's a good stop if you've just visited the Na'Aina Kai Gardens [see separate entry] next door because it's just after the 23-mile marker on Kilauea road.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Kilauea Lighthouse
Kilauea Road Kilauea, Hawaii 96754
+1 808 828 1413

Kauapea Secret Beach: Just us
Kauapea Secret Beach
West of Kilauea off a dirt road

From the Kilauea lighthouse [see separate entry] is the Secret Beach, which isn’t so secret anymore. This was our first beach stop and our first experience of Hawaii's fierce waves and undertow. We ran back to our car and grabbed our boogie boards after we were taken aback by the strong waves. It wasn't even high tide yet!

You have to walk down a dirt road. It's a good idea to have your shoes on first and just take them off as soon as you settle near the water. We were there a little after noon. The sun was fierce and we were forced to sit under the trees, far, far away from the water. It's best if you have a beach umbrella to situate yourself by the dunes and feel like you have the beach to yourself.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Kauapea Secret Beach
West of Kilauea off a dirt road Kauai, Hawaii

Mana Massage
inside the Kauai Athletic Club
Kukui Grove Executive Center
Lihue, HI
808/822-4746
http://www.manamassage.com

A relaxing massage was, of course, on the top of my list of things to do in Hawaii, but the insanely expensive prices were making me lose hope when I started my Kauai research. Hawaii is known as a honeymoon spot, so naturally, prices are for couples who are so in love they don't mind the splurge.

I avoided the spa services available at the resorts because their prices were way over my budget. I diligently searched on the Web and luckily, Leslie, or Manima in Hawaiian, responded to my e-mail and assured me that her massage services would be as relaxing as any of what the exclusive resorts offer.

Manima has been studying yoga since the 1970s and she started concentrating on massage therapy soon after. She has a few therapists working for her, and once you make an appointment, she will arrange the perfect person for your needs. You have two options for a suitable location when you choose to get a massage from Manima: one is at the Kauai Athletic Club, where they set up a tent by the pool for your session; the other is on a hill overlooking the Wailua River in Wailua. The latter is an obvious choice, but we actually selected the Athletic Club because of the amenities included. We were at the club an hour before our 5:30pm appointment and we were able to sign in to use their sauna and Jacuzzi. I sat in the sauna room in the women's locker room for half an hour to relax and jumped in the Jacuzzi by the pool to cool off.

We chose the simple yet delicious Hawaiian Lomilomi massage combined with Hot Stone therapy for $105 per person. It was our first day in Kauai and we wanted to start our week-long stay right. The massage put us at such ease, we continued on to dinner like zombies.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Mana Massage at the Kauai Athletic Club
Near the Kukui Grove Shopping Center Kauai, Hawaii
(808) 245-5381

Maha
Maha'ulepu Lithified Cliffs
off Poipu Road
Poipu, HI

If you want to experience Kauai's natural history for the last 5 million years, you cannot miss the lithified cliffs of Maha'ulepu. It is the last undeveloped coastline on southeast Kauai easily accessed by hikers and visitors. Its future is uncertain because developers are planning to build another golf resort in the area. It's too bad because there are burial remains in the sand dunes and the caves. There are also petroglyphs carved into the limestone ledges on the shoreline. It has been said that Captain Cook's official ship journals mentioned this part of the island during his exploration days. The cliff formations were formed over centuries.

It's an easy hike with little elevation change and once you get to the highest point, you will be rewarded with an ocean breeze. It's a very peaceful retreat and a great getaway from the crowds. When you come before summer, everything that surrounds you is green. We missed that but we still had beautiful photographs because the red cliffs showed beautifully in our prints. The waves violently crash against the cliffs and the height gets disorienting at times so be careful when you step on those sharp rocks. If you want to enjoy the water, you can always swim on Kawailoa Bay [see separate entry] after your hike.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Mahaulepu Lithified Cliffs
off Poipu Road Kauai, Hawaii

Ha
Ha'ula Beach
by the Maha'ulepu Lithified Cliffs
Poipu, HI

Ha'ula Beach is the small patch of sand at the end of the Maha'ulepu lithified cliffs [see separate entry]. When we hiked the cliff formations, it was quite windy and the water was not as inviting as we hoped it would be. On a calmer day, you can sit by the rocks and have a picnic. A lot of fishermen station themselves here and you can discover their rod holders sandwiched between rocks.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Ha'ula Beach
Maha'ulepu Lithified Cliffs Kauai, Hawaii

Kawailoa Bay: Most rustic and the most private in the South Shore
Kawailoa Bay
by the Maha'ulepu Lithified Cliffs
Poipu, HI

There are plenty of beaches on the south shore, but Kawailoa Bay was the most rustic and the most private we visited. There were only a handful of people there and most of them were kite surfers. Besides their gear on the sand, we were alone on the beach. It was a good stop after hiking the Maha'ulepu lithified cliffs [see separate entry] off Poipu Road.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Mahaulepu Lithified Cliffs
off Poipu Road Kauai, Hawaii

Shipwreck Beach: Staying off the water again but at least watching the surfer boys do their thing
Shipwreck Beach
off Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort and Spa

What do you do after a beef and chicken burrito from Taqueria Norteños? [see separate entry] You go back to the beach and take a nap! Shipwreck Beach is for strong swimmers and adventurous surfers because of the potentially dangerous waves. If you park yourself far from the shore, it's a great beach to sunbathe.

I chose to stay away from the water because just the sound of large stones knocking together from the strong waves scared me. My boyfriend, on the other hand, braved the water for some time before climbing a nearby cliff face that people regularly use to jump! You can see in the photo below how high the cliff was. Thankfully, he was able to swim to shore without cramping.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Shipwreck Beach
off Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort and Spa Kauai, Hawaii

Spouting Horn: Howl and spit!
Spouting Horn
Lawa'i Road
Poipu, HI

On Lawa'i Road, there is an overlook where you can watch the water rush under a lava shelf and burst through a small opening every few minutes. Every incoming wave produces a spray that can go up to 50 feet into the air. If you go when the sun is setting, each spray produces a colorful rainbow. It's Mother Nature at work at the Spouting Horn; I especially liked it when each spray causes the blowhole to howl.

Hawaiian legend says that this coast was guarded by a large lizard that ate everyone who tried to swim there. One day, a man tried to enter and when he was about to be attacked by the lizard, he swam under the lava shelf and escaped through the hole, but the lizard got stuck under the rocks. Hawaiians say the lizard howls every time it gets crushed by the waves.

I love stories like that.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Spouting Horn
Lawai Road, across from Allerton Visitor's Center Koloa, Hawaii 96756
No phone available

11-mile Nualolo-Awa
11-mile Hike: Nualolo-Awa'awapuhi Loop


We read about the Nualolo trail and the Awa'awapuhi trail and decided on the challenge of starting on the Nualolo trail, following a connector trail, and taking the Awa'awapuhi back up. All in all, the loop is a total of 11 miles with an elevation change of 1,760 feet. It doesn't seem right to be in Kauai and not enjoy its landscape on foot.

We were at Kokee Lodge by 9:30am. We strapped our packs on our backs filled with a few bottles of water, a sarong (in lieu of a heavier towel), ponchos and our trail map. Professional hikers would most likely pack energy bars and bite-size fruits to eat during their hike. My boyfriend and I are professional eaters so we packed lamb stew with potatoes, homemade guacamole and chips, watermelon and bananas.

With all that weight, we started off a few blocks away from where we parked our car at the Kokee Lodge and entered the Nualolo trail. There was trail marker every half a mile but I stopped counting after I realized I still had seven miles to go. Exercise is not a hobby of mine and this trek was definitely strenuous. As soon as we realized that we were on top of the Waimea Canyon, we could only shake our heads in disbelief. See my photos below, though none do justice to incredible view we witnessed.

We set our sarong at the lookout and ate our lunch. It started drizzling so before we could fully rest, we had to get going and trek through the Nualolo Cliffs to reach the end of Awa-'awapuhi, the other trail that would close our loop.

We stopped at another vista that marks the end of the Awa'awapuhi trail. Other hikers were there taking in the view. After only a couple of minutes, we started off again. The drizzle turned into a downpour and we ended up schlepping in mud, our ponchos thankfully keeping our cameras dry. Our guidebook described Awa'awapuhi as an easy trail because it is mostly downhill, but because we were starting off from the end of it, we were going uphill for the next four miles. With the rain turning our trail into mud, climbing became more difficult.

I don't remember ever being thankful to the gods above like I did when we finally reached the starting mark of Awa'awapuhi. My legs were Jello and my shoes were covered with mud. My boyfriend reminded me that we still had to go back to the car to go home and that meant walking on the highway back to Kokee Lodge for another mile and a half. I almost cried.

But we made it back to our car, dirtier than pigs in mud but also rewarded with the athlete's endorphin high.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Nualolo-Awaawapuhi Loop
begin at the Kokee Lodge Kauai, Hawaii

Ha
Ha'ena Beach Park/ Tunnels Beach Reef
Highway 560 just before Mile Marker 9
Across the street from the Dry Cave

You can imagine how sore we were after our 11-mile hike. Day 4 called for just pure lounging at the beach.

Ha'ena Beach Park is a popular spot for campers. We were welcomed by tents and park benches as soon as we reached mile marker 9 on highway 560. It was a perfect day when we went, striking sun and a mild breeze without the raging waves. We set our blankets far from the water under the trees separating the private residences from the beach. By high noon, we could not even step on the sand as it was hot, hot, hot!

I've been to a lot of beaches but only in Kauai have I ever laid down on sand and looked up to see a mountain. It was at Ha'ena where I finally realized what people mean when they call Hawaii paradise.

The Tunnels Beach Reef is around the bend and it is where the snorkelers go with their gear to check out the underwater life. After a few sightings of small fish, we went back to our blankets and played Scrabble to pass the time. It was beautiful and all, but it was definitely not Belize where the animals outnumbered the people in the water.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Haena State Park
End of Highway 56 Hanalei, Hawaii 96714
+1 808 274 3444

Maniniholo Dry Cave: The name means swimming Manini fish
Maniniholo Dry Cave
Highway 560 just before Mile Marker 9
Across the street from Ha'ena Beach Park

Before leaving Ha'ena beach Park [see separate entry], we crossed the street to check out the Maniniholo Dry Cave. The name means "swmming Manini fish" and is about 300 yards deep. You can't really go anywhere inside because it's just an opening of the towering mountain above you. They say that the opening was wider than it is now but a tsunami in the 1950s almost filled it with sand.

The Limahuli Stream is in between the dry cave and the wet caves [see separate entry]. We saw a few people washing the sand off their bodies in here but we did not join them because of a sign that warned waders of the bacteria that could be found in the waters. No, thanks.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Maniniholo Dry Cave
Highway 560 just before Mile Marker 9 Kauai, Hawaii

Waikanaloa/Waikapalae Wet Caves
Waikanaloa/Waikapalae Wet Caves
Highway 560

If you drive a few minutes towards the end of the highway after the Maniniholo Dry Cave [see separate entry], you can reach the Waikanaloa Wet Cave, the more accessible of the two because it is by the side of the road. You have to hike a small hill to get to the Waikapalae Wet Cave but this one is definitely more "wet" because you can access the Blue Room from here if you want to brave the ice-cold water.

The water in both caves comes from underground springs that eventually feed into the ocean. The caves were formed when the ocean was at a higher level than it is today.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Waikanaloa/Waikapalae Wet Caves
Highway 560 Kauai, Hawaii

Hanalei Lookout: The home of taro and <i>poi</i>
Hanalei Lookout

One of the most beautiful drives in the north shore is along Hanalei where you pass through a few one-way bridges. Taro is a tropical Asian plant healthily cultivated in Hawaii and it is where poi comes from, which is taro that is boiled, mashed, and eaten like potatoes. There's plenty of vegetation surrounding Hanalei but the giant taro leaves are what you see first.

Stop the car when you see the sign for Hanalei Lookout because what you will see is a postcard waiting to happen.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Hanalei Pier
End of Weke Road Hanalei, Hawaii 96714
No phone available

Princeville Golf Resort
Princeville Golf Resort

Our next stop was Queen's Bath [see separate entry], which meant we had to drive through the exclusive Princeville Golf Club inside the Princeville Resort. As soon as you drive past the guards at the iron gates, it is obvious that the people who own a home in here, whether they rent them out to tourists or not, are all moneyed.

The golf course is beautiful and well-maintained. My boyfriend and I are not golfers but if we were, we'd probably join the throngs of folks who fly to Kauai just to golf.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Princeville Golf Course
5-3900 Kuhio Highway Princeville, Hawaii 96722
+1 808 826 5000

Queen
Queen's Bath
inside the Princeville Resort

Once inside the Princeville Resort, Queen's Bath is a necessary stop. Inside Princeville, you take a right on Ka Haku Road, another right on Punahele and right again on Kapiolani. As soon as Queen's Bath became popular, the government provided a small parking lot before the entrance to the trail. It gets so crowded you might have to spend a few minutes in the hopes that someone will drive out and free a space for you.

There is a dirt trail along the stream right next to the parking lot. When you reach the end, you will be rewarded with a view of the ocean and beautiful lava shelf formations. If the surf is not pounding, it is easy to walk on the rocks; otherwise, you have to watch your step to keep from slipping. Several pools have been formed from the lava shelf.

If you're just there to check the scene out like us (there were too many people), check out the tortoise trying to feed from the moss against the rocks below. They swim and tumble with the strong current.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Queen's Bath
North Shore, near Kapiolani Road Kauai, Hawaii

Banana Joe
Banana Joe's
Highway 560
Tel: 808/828-1092

Driving back to the east shore, we saw the Banana Joe's sign and immediately made a turn to buy some fresh fruits and vegetables. They also sell jams, jellies, dressings and sauces made on the island with their own produce. Their smoothies were delicious especially after getting all that sun. We bought some sunflower sprouts to make salad for dinner.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Banana Joe's
Highway 560 Kauai, Hawaii

Hanakapi
Hanakapi'ai Beach
at the end of the Kalalau Trail
along the Na Pali Coast

At the end of the shorter Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast [see separate entry], there is a stream before you reach Hanakapi'ai Beach. If the water is rough, it is difficult to cross.

Watch your step when you skip over large stones to get to the other side. The Hanakapi'ai water was not inviting as it seemed from up above during our hike. The waves are so strong there is a sign that 82 people have died so far. (Can anyone write me a message if you see the tally go above 82?) But the beach is a peaceful spot to rest before heading back. There is also a calm strip of water where the stream and the ocean meet. You can wash up here after eating your packed lunch.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Hanakapi’ai Beach
Na Pali Coast Kauai, Hawaii

Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast: My favorite shot of Na Pali
Kalalau Trail
along the Na Pali Coast

The entire Kalalau trail is 11 miles for those who are camping with licenses but for amateurs like us, the end is at the Hanakapi'ai Beach [see separate entry] after only 2 miles.

The easier and more popular trail begins a few yards away from Ke'e Beach. The first mile will already reward you with excellent views of the coast. The rest of the way is not maintained and will require some climbs over rocks and fallen trees. We started before 10am so the morning hike was pleasant and the weather dry. It's a good hike when the skies are clear because you walk along sea cliffs before the big drop to sea level at Hanakapi'ai.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Kalalau Trail
at the end of the Kalalau Trail Kauai, Hawaii

'Anini Beach
Highway 560 past Kiauea

Take a right on the second Kalihiwai Road and then a left on 'Anini Road for a more peaceful beach than Ke'e by the Kalalau Trail [see separate entry]. After our hike, we were desperate to sit on the beach. We drove away from Ke'e beach and found 'Anini by the side of the road, empty and isolated. The water was surprisingly calm here, so we brought out our snorkeling gears as soon as we parked our car.

After a school of fish sighting, we just decided to sit under the trees and relax. We haven't had a beach to ourselves the last few days and it was such a relief to finally find one in Kauai.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Anini Beach Park
At the end of Anini Road Hanalei, Hawaii 96714
+1 808 822 5065

Waimea River Black Sand Beach
Waimea River Black Sand Beach
Highway 50
Waimea, HI

Day 6 and we are finally getting used to the hours and recovering from our jet lag. We actually woke up at 10am today which is three hours later than usual! After getting ready to head to the beach, it was already noon.

Our guidebook mentioned that the Waimea River is the only black or volcanic sand in all of Kauai. The photo in the book looked amazing enough so we drove to the west coast all the way from the east to see it for ourselves. It's not really the black sand we thought it would be. Where the river meets the ocean a strong current whipped up the sands beneath to give the water an overall turbid appearance.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Waimea River Black Sand Beach
Highway 50 Kauai, Hawaii

Barking Sand Beach: Driving to the ends of the earth to see this
Barking Sand Beach
off the Pacific Missile Range Facility

We drove away from the "black sand" of the Waimea River [see separate entry] determined to find our beach for the day. The road runs past a military base and ends where the beach is. Driving up there was like being in a ghost town – everything around us was dry as if we'd all of a sudden arrived at a desert. There was no sign of the lush valleys and commanding cliffs ahead of us. We kept driving anyway past the Pacific Missile Range Facility and the unpaved roads of Barking Sands. It was like driving to the ends of the earth. There were no signs and no directions leading to the beach. There was no sign of water as the dried tall bush covered our view of the road ahead. We bounced up and down inside our cars, thankful for the first time that we rented an SUV.

The sun was intense but we finally made it to the beach. We parked our car by the facilities and walked down the dunes to get a glimpse of where we wanted to spend the rest of our afternoon. We immediately changed our minds as soon as we felt how hot the sand was. Our slippers seemed to be melting! Even if we had umbrellas, I think that would have melted, too. There were no trees and no respite from the sun.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Barking Sand Beach
off the Pacific Missile Range Facility Kauai, Hawaii

Poipu Beach: <i>Everyone</i> in Kauai seemed to have arrived before us
Poipu Beach
Poipu Road

We visited the popular Poipu Beach during our last full day, and popular it was! Everyone in Kauai seemed to have arrived before us. A monk seal even found solace on the sand before we could grab a picnic table under one of the few coconut trees. I don't know what the big deal is about this beach. It's like someone added sand right after the concrete parking lot and decided to call it a beach. It's a great snorkeling beach, but there were too many people in the water for our taste, so we only lasted an hour, enough time to eat our lunch.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Poipu Beach
Poipu Road Kauai, Hawaii

Waimea Canyon Lookout
Waimea Canyon Lookout

Driving to the South Shore to begin our Nualolo-Awa'awapuhi hike [see separate entry], we saw one of Mother Nature's most beautiful creations: Waimea Canyon. We vowed to return to make an appropriate visit.

Once an ancient volcano, Mark Twain dubbed the 3,600-feet-deep gorge "The Grand Canyon of the Pacific." Erosion has exposed colorful layers of lava canyon walls, creating a pathway for the Waimea River to cut the canyon and thus rusting the iron in the soil, giving it its red color.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Waimea Canyon
Koke'e Road Kauai, Hawaii 96752
(808) 274-3433

Opaeka
Opaeka'a Falls
Wailua State Park

We drove by the Opaeka'a Falls every day because it is on the way to our guest house. The picturesque falls gets its name, which means "rolling shrimp," from the shrimp that lay their eggs at the base of the falls.

There's a lookout off Highway 580 where you can park your car and take photos. Try stopping by early in the day to avoid the busloads of tourists who also try to take the photo below.

There is apparently a way down to the falls, but it is unmarked, and you will be trailblazing like pigs. It rained almost every day on the East Shore when we were there, so we didn't even make any attempts.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by ext212 on August 7, 2004

Wailua Falls
Off Highway 580 in Kapaia Valley Lihue, Hawaii 96766
No phone available