Second Time Around Innsbruck And The Brenner Pass

We were here 10 years ago and our memory of its charms prompted our return. Walk around this historic place; feast your eyes on high shuttered houses, ablaze with overflowing window boxes. Amble along the path of the dreamy river Inn beguiling visitors as they stroll through shady parkland. Watch artists attempt to immortalize the landscape.

Innsbruck’s activities and sites are so varied depending on what ones interests are you can be active or leisurely. Do explore the cafes and terraces, have coffee and a slice of the Dobos torte, {so many cakes but this was our favorite, and downfall} yes, you might as well give up calorie counting, give in and splurge. Earlier in the day we stopped for a coffee, we definitely weren’t hungry after we ordered the coffee the waitress exclaimed "No Cake" she really was quite shocked. Wander the narrow alleys, talk to the locals, observe visitors from around the world, you won’t be bored.

Quick Tips:

Below are a few of the "must see" attractions depending of course on your interest. There are many more not just in the city, the surrounding areas are lovely and a few villages are within easy reach. The best place to get in depth information is at the tourist office, they are eager to help you enjoy their lovely city.

Hoffburg Palace Ambras castle Museum Olympic toboggan Run Johanniskirche. Stadtturm. Igls. / Pascherkofel. cable ride

The tourist office offers the Innsbruck card good for transportation, Museums, and for visitors staying three days a free tourist card. This is automatically given to you when you check in your hotel and is good for a myriad of activities including hiking. We wanted to join a Lanternlit walk but it was not available for the day we were free. We took the trip to Igls/ Pascherkofel lovely sunny day, of course I wore open shoes, the snow on my feet as we stood on top of the mountain, numbed my enjoyment of the view! the hot sweet chocolate following did a good job restoring my circulation.

Best Way To Get Around:

The best way to see Innsbruck is on foot. The tourist office offers the Innsbruck card. there are a variety of benefits including free transportation around Innsbruck and Hall village /Igls (Ski Lift) Rates for the Innsbruck card are 21€ for 24hr, 26€ for 48hrs and 72hrs for 31€.

This modernized hotel is located less than a five-minute walk to the historic center. {Our double room cost around $150 can per night} It has been fully upgraded since our last visit 10 years ago; the lobby is spacious with a well stocked modern bar, the bar staff are very friendly and knowledgeable, giving a local slant to recommended sites.

The parking is included. That in itself is a bonus as it is difficult finding accessible places plus, the parking lots are metered. A car is not necessary unless you are leaving the city.

Our room was non-smoking, with A/C, Sat, TV, Bright, with modern décor, good size, overlooking the river. Queen bed, hard mattress. Plus, a couple of comfy armchairs and a table. The usual toilet articles, hairdryer. Safe, large bathroom.

The staff was very friendly I asked one of the bar staff the age of the hotel, he replied "very Old" and went on to tell us that the ground is historical, built on the foundation of a castle belonging to 12th century counts.

The hotel also has a Restaurant, coffee shop, pool and full fitness center. The huge breakfast was included in the price. Buffet style hot and cold eatables.

The clientele appeared to be a mix of nattily dressed business types, a mixture of tourist nationalities French, German, English. We felt safe in this area; in fact, we left the hotel around one am just to walk the Maria Theresa Strasse. and see the Golden Roof. A few people were wandering around; the moon was full like a giant pearl. At no time did we feel threatened.

The view from our window was beautiful, twinkling lights from the local neighborhoods across the river. A lovely church spire in the distance and the ever-present iced mountains. We hope we return to this hotel and won’t wait ten years.

I was not intending to write journals as I had just browsed this site, hence the reason my photos of accomodation are very few; on this photo our hotel is the pink one in the background. Next trip will show more of our hotels.

After a well-spent day enjoying the sights of Innsbruck we took the advice of our young friend from the park to eat here.

This atmospheric Olde Worlde Inn type restaurant is centrally located and noted for local "home made" cuisine.

The décor is rustic of the kind I would imagine the old inns of Austria and Germany would have had. The staff friendly and helpful our waiter spoke English, also an English menu was available.

We noted many locals, Americans, Australians, yet there was an intimate air due to the generous placement of the tables.

Now I must tell you my husband is a soup addict, no matter the weather he always requests soup so I consider him an expert. He rated the potato soup here the best even superb.

I enjoyed the various breads so many varieties and fresh. We ordered a local meat free dish, pasta dumpling overstuffed with spinach, very generous serving and tasty. {One portion could serve two} The salad a mix of greens, young onions, and tomatoes with a vinegar type dressing was a tiny bit limp but then I am a bit fussy about salads, my husband said his was fine.

Austria is a paradise for those with a sweet tooth. {And a nightmare for dieters} Forgetting calories we splurged on the dobos torte it is heavenly with a caramelized topping.

We did not have wine with this meal instead we opted to finish our excellent meal with traditional pear schnapps. The total cost for this meal excluding tip was $40 Canadian.

We started our day exploring Innsbruck, around 9:30am. (After tucking away a very large breakfast.) This journal entry is a look at how we spent a morning (break for lunch), then continued on our ramble. All in all, we spent around 6 hours and all on foot.

Start your explorations in the Altstadt, the historic inner city and, for a million dollar view of the Nordkette, mountains walk to Maria Theresien-Strasse. This is a thoroughfare with shops, Boutiques, banks, Internet, cafes. In the middle, you will find a red marble column erected in 1703 to commemorate the departure of the Bavarians (during the war of the Spanish succession) on St, Anna’s day. On top of the column is a statue of the Virgin Mary, her head encircled with stars. At its base are Mary’s mother Saint Anne and various saints. I recognized saint George (or should I say the dragon,) Patron Saint of the Tyrol, (not the dragon George.) It is hard to believe the monument has survived without any visible signs of damage for 300 years. Empress Maria Therese chose the best location for the loveliest gateway, the Triumphal Arch. From it, one can enjoy Austria’s most glorious mountain scenery; this monument is located on the southern end of the street facing the Nordkette. Perhaps Maria Therese envisioned a glorious monument to love. The Arch was meant to reflect happiness on the wedding of her son. And what a perfect backdrop, unfortunately Emperor Franz 1 died suddenly during the wedding festivities. The architect subsequently changed the arch to reflect joy and sorrow. The south side depicts happiness and rejoicing, the north side mourning. The Arch was erected around 1765. Thankfully, he was not able to change the view.

The Golden Roof (Golden Dachl) is a very popular spot for tour groups. Situated in the inner city it really is a sight to behold. The 15th-century roof was a gift to the citizens of Innsbruck by Maximilian the first. The Gold on copper roof shingles contains around 31 pounds of the precious metal. Maximilian had to borrow money to pay for it. {Wonder if he hiked the taxes}. Try to see it early in the day when there are fewer tourists.

Another favorite building is the Helbinghause. One of my hobbies was making wedding cakes usually in the baroque style inspired of course by the wedding cake cathedrals of Europe. The Helbinghouse is a confectioner’s inspiration of medieval lavish decoration. This gothic building is diagonally opposite to the Golden roof. The façade is painted in pastel colors and is enchanting.

We did some aimless wandering, past the golden Adler the oldest inn in Innsbruck {a golden Eagle sits at the entrance} Mozart, Wagner, Sartre, and Maximilian made merry here.

Directly opposite across the bridge there is shady parkland. We followed the path passing several artists and they all seemed to have sketched the same view, that of the soaring domes of the royal palace.

We followed a winding road past medieval dwellings with doorways so small that my head would have been in grave danger, and at 5 feet, I felt tall. The bell from one of the nearby churches chimed on the hour and quarter hour that and a heady fragrance of blossoms made our walk enchanting.

Returning across the bridge we made our way back to Herzog-Friedrichstrasse, {Altstadt} followed the narrow cobbled alleyways to the cathedral. Inside the nave are three domed vaults; the lamp flickering above the chancel gives the area an imperial air. The high altar is stunning mainly for the presence above it of A masterpiece of art of Our Lady of Succor, painted by a German master artist Lucas Cranner. To the left of the altar is a monument to one of the Maximillians. {3rd, I think} another statue kneels in a prayer pose watched over by the ever-present saint George and a rather tired looking dragon.

Adjoining the cathedral is the Hofburg, once the royal residence. This is worth a visit, one can view the apartments, the décor is m,ostly Rococo. It is easy to imagine the splendid life lived by the royals. The best part of the visit is the huge giants hall. Over one hundred ft, long magnificent stucco panels depict scenes of the Hapsburgs and their family. They are a "must see".

The Hapsburgs were very powerful and quite a lot of careful planning was put into play in order to make the best and powerful marriages. Those marraiges guaranteed succession of the line. There is also an interesting ceiling painting. However, just as we entered the hall a large group of Japanese tourists arrived so we made a quick exit intending to return the next morning. {We were sidetracked and did not return}

I must mention the Hofkirche. On our last visit we were of the opinion, it was well worth seeing but we did not get to see the site again. Maximillian designed this himself it was to be his mausoleum but his body was interred in Wiener Neustadt because the Burghers denied him entry. He died in wells, the Burghers were fearful that his soldiers wouldn’t pay their bills. It seems a shame that he didn’t get to be buried there still it is a most remarkable imperial memorial.

There are many magnificent statues. Archduke Ferdinand the 2nd is interred in the rear nave. There is a suit of Armour belonging to him suspended in a kneeling position half way up the wall. A silver Madonna adorns another wall and it is outstanding.

Make sure you have conversations with the locals thus getting to know the true spirit of Austrian hospitality and culture. My husband was invited to play backgammon and indeed did; in the park, we had engaged a young fellow in conversation about soccer after he noted my husband’s soccer cap. We ended up leaving him the cap, plus he gave us a restaurant recommendation. So, on a visit to this lovely city you will find your own "Golden Moments"

After speaking with the friendly staff at the tourist office we opted to visit Wilten Basilica, just outside the old town in Bergisel and take advantage of the Innsbruck card. It is good for transportation to major sites, museums, including the sightseeing trolley tour. {Number one trolley} It is possible to walk to Bergisel two kilometers across town,however it is a steep climb for those of us with older knees.

Many battles took place on this wooded hillside, including one with Napoleon. It was also the site of a Roman garrison named Veldina, and the present site of the Olympic ski jump. The ski area provides a good view of Innsbruck; the names of the medal winners from the 1976 Olympics are listed.

Under the hill from the stadium there is a graveyard, I wonder if the Olympians were distracted or motivated by its location as they hurdled down the slope.

It is said that Empress Maria Theresa had a fondness for the colour yellow, indeed it is much in evidence in Innsbruck and the Basilica.

Imperial twin towers rise majestically, its domes appear as if dabs of chocolate covered marshmallows had been placed atop to complement the facades buttery yellow and white iced exterior, a picture postcard view against the craggy mountain.

The interior is a prismatic medley of soft colours; gold predominates giving the basilica a golden hue. Lavish rococo plasterwork, angels and cherubs abound, draping garlands around soaring arches, it really is magical.

There are beautiful ceiling paintings depicting the life of Mary, and a gruesome one of Salome holding aloft the head of John the Baptist.

The stunning high altar is adorned with a brocade canopy covering an exquisite sandstone statue of the Virgin Mary. Four marble pillars support the canopy, hence the name "Our Lady of the four Pillars". This site has been venerated by pilgrims since the Middle Ages, legend has it Roman legions were drawn to a painting of the Madonna believing it to have miraculous powers. An order of monks owned the land in 1140; even then, it was a place of pilgrimage. The first church was erected on this site in 1259 and was rebuilt in 1751. I wonder about the hardship those pilgrims must have endured on their journey, perhaps bringing along their ailing loved ones, traveling far distances, they certainly didn’t arrive on the sightseeing trolley.

Kneeling in this church, my senses are overwhelmed by the intoxicating scent of creamy white roses that someone had placed upon the altar a peaceful lulling aroma. If the word peaceful had a smell, I imagine this would be it.

Photographs are forbidden,{notices abound} yet many tourists were clicking and flashing away. Postcards are available for those of us who follow the no photo rule. There is no charge to enter this church but no sightseeing is allowed during services. This is one of the finest basilicas I have ever visited, well worth the time.

The sightseer. No charge to holders of the Innsbruck card. Leaves from old town, is fully narrated -- no bookings required. Single tickets {available from driver or tourist office.} price is 2.50. Euros and return 4 Euros. A better value is the day ticket: 8 Euros. You can hop on and off this trolley at no extra charge.

All good things must end, but before we leave Austria, we visit the Swarvoski Museum in nearby Watters. The world-famous crystal is different from other crystal - it is man made.

Daniel Swarvoski started his factory in 1895 here in Watters an Industrial suburb of Innsbruck. Using a special firing process, natural and local minerals, coarse sand, and superb cutting and polishing techniques, he produced a sparkling, first-class crystal.

Some of the best known is the cute myriad of animal shapes, gorgeous chandeliers, jewellery; even top class fashion designers use them to adorn courtier gowns. Forty million stones are produced daily along with over 250,000 varying sizes, colors and shapes. I love the jewelry, so you can imagine this place was not on my husband’s "Must see list"; however, being the good sport he is, we found ourselves oohing and aahing at the dramatic entry to this iced wonderland.

The entry is a startling ivy covered hill shaped like a human face; a tinkling waterfall flows from the mouth. Inside there are huge showrooms; one has a large horse made entirely of crystal. Various sound and light themes accompanied by heavenly music plus the kaleidoscope of colours make this a magical place.

We did not linger too long; of course, I could have spent enough to ensure we could never again have a vacation, so I limited myself to a $20 stickpin. {Much to my husband’s relief}

The exhibition is open daily 9am- 6pm. The Innsbruck card allowed us to visit free, so do not recall the admission price. If you go, try to get there before the ever-eager tour groups.

Reluctantly we leave Austria, we do so by the route of the Brenner pass. Ten years ago, we traveled this route seated in the middle row of a large tour bus, definitely not the way to view it.

This time, what a treat and an eye opener. We believe Innsbruck is scenically one of the most beautiful cities in Europe; the Brenner Pass is its dessert. Magnificent scenery overwhelms the senses. Verdant forests, thick greenery broken by an occasional waterfall, hypnotizing snowcapped mountains. The ten-euro toll was well worth it - even if you are staying in Innsbruck, if you have access to a car, take the ride just for the view. {approx, one hour from Innsbruck to the Italian border.}

In Roman times it was known as the Via Claudia Augusta. It is the oldest route through the Alps and has the lowest elevation. {In no way does that detract from its beauty} There are twenty-two tunnels, sixty bridges, a monument to modern engineering. This route ends in Bolzano, Italy. As we enter Italy, we say a silent goodbye to beautiful Austria. We are filled with countless memories and a firm resolve to return.