Venice Journals

Vanishing Venice

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A May 2004 trip to Venice by Tolik

Apartment at Campo San Trovaso Photo, Venice, Italy More Photos
Quote: One day our family decided to visit Venice, the city of romance, the city of magic, the sinking city that can disappear. As John Ruskin wrote in The Stones of Venice "The rate at which Venice is going is about that of a lump of sugar in hot tea."

Apartment at Campo San Trovaso

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Hotel

Apartment at Campo San Trovaso Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
The Campo San Trovaso apartment is one of the best places we have ever rented in Europe. The beautiful apartment, located in central but quiet position, immersed in the mystic atmosphere of Venice, offers its guests serene, silent and welcoming surroundings. The San Trovaso apartment located on the second floor (European first) in the 3-storey house, in the quiet and charming area of Dorsoduro, only a few steps from San Trovaso Church and the Zattere promenade on the lagoon. Location could not be better - on a quiet canal Rio Ognissanti (All Saints) near the Squero di San Trovaso - a picturesque gondola-maker’s workshop, one of the most significant sites in Venice. It is here that gond...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on July 17, 2004

Apartment at Campo San Trovaso
Campo San Trovaso
Venice, Italy

Taverna San Trovaso

Restaurant

Taverna San Trovaso Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
The tavern of San Trovaso is one of the most popular establishments in Venice. Moderately priced (under €15), this restaurant is a "can't miss" choice. You’ll be able to tell by all of the young locals and visitors alike crowding here (the tavern is always packed, but table turnover is fast). You can sample here an authentic Venetian pesce (fish) dish. A wide choice of Venetian dishes served in robust portions, economical prix-fixe menus at both lunch and dinner, delicious pepperoni pizzas, and house wine by the glass or pitcher keep this two-floor tavern busy. Two steps from the Campo San Trovaso with its famous church and the gondola yard, and 5 min. walk from the Gallerie dell'Ac...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 18, 2004

Taverna San Trovaso
Fondamenta Priuli
Venice, Italy
+39 520 3703

District of Dorsoduro

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Attraction

District of Dorsoduro Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
The six districts into which Venice is divided are called sestieri; three per side of the Grand Canal (Dorsoduro, Santa Croce and San Polo to the left and Castello, San Marco and Cannaregio to the right). We stayed in the sestiere of Dorsoduro. The area between the Accademia and San Trovaso is Venice’s most elegant and artisty quarter, home to many artists and writers. Some of the finest domestic architecture in Venice is concentrated here. The reason is simple - there were not many places among the lagoon's mud-banks where Venice's early settlers could be confident that their dwellings wouldn't slither down into the water, but with Dorsoduro they were on relatively solid ground (the s...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 17, 2004

District of Dorsoduro
Dorsoduro
Venice, Italy

Campo San Trovaso

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Attraction

Campo San Trovaso Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
We rented an apartment near the San Trovaso campo, along the Rio Ognissanti. The area around the square is famous due to the gondola yard and the beautiful church. The gondola workshop is on the corner of the Rio Ognissanti and Rio di San Trovaso. This picturesque squero is one of the remaining gondola yards in Venice. And now let’s visit the church. There was no saint Trovaso – the Venetians merged the names of Saint Gervasio and Saint Protasio, two locally popular but historically questinable saints. Since its 10th century foundation the church has had a turbulent history, falling down once, and twice being destroyed by fire; this is the fourth incarnation, built in 1584–1657. Venetian...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on July 17, 2004

Campo San Trovaso
San Trovaso
Venice, Italy

Santa Margherita Square Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
The vast Campo Santa Margherita, ringed by houses that date back as far as the 14th century, is the heart of Dorsoduro. In the morning you will find here daily market. Students from the nearby university hang out in the square's bars and cafés. The church that gives the campo its name was closed in 1810 and is now a university auditorium. You will notice the dragons in the decorative stonework on the former church. As the legend goes, Saint Margaret emerged unscathed after the dragon that had swallowed her exploded. A miraculous escape from the dragon’s guts makes her the patron saint of pregnant women. If you have enough time than look around you will see the dragon features on the cam...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 17, 2004

Santa Margherita Square
Dorsoduro
Venice, Italy

San Barnaba and the Ponte dei Pugni

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Attraction

San Barnaba and the Ponte dei Pugni Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
One day we decided to visit Ca’ Rezzonico. Cutting down the side of the Carmini church we came over the Rio di San Barnaba, along which a fondamenta runs to the church of San Barnaba. It was this very canal that Katherine Hepburn fell into in the movie Midsummer Madness, causing permanent damage to her sight. Just before the end of the fondamenta, on the left, there is famous bridge - the Ponte dei Pugni. Originally built without parapets, the bridge was the site of ritual battles between the Castellani and Nicolotti; this one is inset with marble footprints marking the starting positions. These massed brawls took place between September and Christmas, and obeyed a well-defin...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 17, 2004

San Barnaba and the Ponte dei Pugni
Dorsoduro
Venice, Italy

Ponte di Rialto

Attraction | "Rialto Bridge"

Ponte di Rialto Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
The Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) is the true heart of Venice and the city’s landmark. It is one of the two bridges in Italy that has the shops on it. The current bridge was built in just three years, between 1588 and 1591. It remained the only way to cross the Grand Canal on foot until the Accademia Bridge was built in 1854. The architect, Antonio da Ponte ("Anthony of the Bridge,") competed against such famous designers as Michelangelo and Palladio for the contract.

The bridge has three walkways: two along the outer balustrades, and a wider central walkway leading between two rows of small shops that sell jewelry, linens, Murano glass, and other items for the tourist trade.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 17, 2004

Ponte di Rialto
Grand Canal
Venice, Italy 30124
Nessun telefono disp

Museums and Monuments

Attraction | "Museums and Monuments of Venice"

Museums and Monuments Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
In an attempt to make sure that tourists go to see more than just the Palazzo Ducale and San Marco, the city of Venice invented several museum passes. We stayed a week in town therefore our obvious choice was the Museum Pass. Costing in May 2004 €15.50 for adults, €10.00 for students, the tickets allowed us visit to each of the following attractions: the Museums of St Mark’s Square (Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico, Biblioteca Marciana), the Museums of the 18th century culture (Ca’ Rezzonico, Palazzo Mocenigo, Casa Goldoni), and the Islands Museums - Museo del Merletto (Burano) and Museo del Vetro (Murano). If you are going to be in Venice 2 or 3 days then the Museum Card is f...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 17, 2004

Museums and Monuments

Venice, Italy

Squero di San Trovaso Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
In the Venetian dialect, squero means workshop. The Squero di San Trovaso is a boat- builder shop, more exactly a gondola repair and construction yard. There are not many left in Venice, and the most famous (and most picturesque) is the Squero di San Trovaso. The alpine-style workshop, window sills clad with geraniums is a throw back to the first occupants who came from the mountainous Cadore region north of Venice. It is not open to the public, but we passed the squero numerous times and saw gondolas being worked on outside all the time across the Rio di San Trovaso canal. Directions: Just off the Zattere in Dorsoduro - turn off Zattere at Ponte Lungo, along Fondamenta Nani.

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 18, 2004

Squero di San Trovaso
Dorsoduro
Venice, Italy

Venice Marco Polo Airport

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Story/Tip

Mysterious Venice Photo, Venice, Italy
Quote:
For most North Americans, flying to Italy means booking a ticket to Milan or Rome. But Venice's Marco Polo International Airport (VCE) at Tessera, on the mainland just north of Venice, is a more convenient gateway for many travelers. We took a flight from Venice to London and greatly enjoyed it. The aerial view of Venice was breathtaking. You'll see the beautiful city, with instantly recognizable landmarks like the Grand Canal and the Campanile San Marco. You'll see the Venetian Lagoon, the Dolomites and of course the Adriatic Sea. It is a 20-minute road trip from the city's Piazzale Roma. Two different bus routes are available, and both are inexpensive. Bus ATVO (blue bus) offers a direc...Read More