Reminiscing Hong Kong

Riding the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour at sunset, afternoon tea at the Peninsular or the Mandarin Hotel, riding the tram from one end of HK island to the other at night, Sunday dim-sum lunch with the family, leisurely drive and picnic to the New Territories (although nowadays, most of the countryside have been turned into satellite cities, shrinking wide open green spaces), and these are just a few that come to mind.

Quick Tips:

Summers are hot and very humid in HK. So if that's the season you pick to visit, be prepared. Also, the air-conditioning indoors is usually at full blast, SO bring a light sweater (we call it the AC jacket) or else you may catch a cold! Autumn months are best for sight-seeing, especially late September to even early December. Stay away during Chinese New Year, which falls on either end of January or beginning of February depending on the lunar calendar. This is a full week holiday when the city comes to a stand still. Many tourists arrive and are at lost as to why the city is so quiet. Christmas is also another special time to visit-there are lights and decorations on buildings in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui districts and lots of festive atmospheres. The tradition is to go for a huge Christmas buffet lunch at one of the major hotels.

Best Way To Get Around:

First of all, the public transportation here is excellent. From the airport at Chek Lap Kok, take the Airport Express train into town. It only takes about 20 minutes to town center. If you stay for a week or more, get a card called 'Octopus' which is a fare card that allows on MTR (the subway system), ferries, buses etc. You can also buy single fare cards at the many machines or at the tellers, but the Octopus is convenient and you don't have to line up or figure out the fare of each trip (fare depends on distance travelled). You do have to pay a deposit for the card itself, but I found the convenience worthwhile. Also, you don't even have to take the card out to swipe through the gates-just swipe the card through your pocket or handbag and the sensors will pick up the magnetic strip. Taxi's are convenient and very reasonable. Beware that they cannot stop on certain streets, due to the zones dictated by traffic laws. Watch for the yellow lines at the side of the road.

This hotel is in Causeway Bay and has been renovated a few years back. I like this place because this neighborhood is familiar to me and it is convenient in terms of MTR subway stations and buses.

The hotel is quite luxurious now, and has very plush rooms, some with nice views. You either look over the harbour or face the hills and Victoria park. In fact, the park is across the street from the hotel and you can go there early to watch old folks practice their tai chi or the kids in the afternoon play soccer.

Causeway Bay is full of small malls, shops, restaurants. Pretty much everything you need, whether it be cheap or expensive or moderate.

The Conrad Hotel is one of three luxurious hotels on a hillside above Pacific Place, a nice shopping center between Wanchai and Central districts on the Hong Kong side. The location is convenient especially with the ease of public transportation available: taxis are readily available at the hotel entrance and numerous subway (MTR) and bus lines at Admiralty, which is the main stop that serves Pacific Place.

I was able to stay here as my trip coincided with my father''s business trip and thus my hotel room was paid for. However, I thought the room was well worth its price and there are sometimes promotions through the hotel at off-peak times. (Do check on their internet site, listed at the end of this entry.)

My room was on a high floor (the hotel totals 61 stories) and had a panoramic view of the harbour. I believe the price would be lower if you opt for a land view of the hills. I was most impressed by the size of the room, incredibly spacious and comfortable. The windows were nice and wide, spanning the width of the room. The decor is classic modern, not stuffy at all. The mable bathroom had both an oversize tub, a separate shower and two sinks (plus a rubber duck for a light touch!) Again, very spacious. For the business traveler, a fax machine with your personalized fax number, two phone lines, dataport and voice mail are included. Another personal touch is the teddy bear on your bed at night.

The best thing about the hotel was the convenience of Pacific Place. I visited in the summer (it was only May but already hot and humid) and it was nice to be able to walk to the shopping center while staying in air conditioning. The stores at Pacific Place are not for bargain hunters as prices are high and the quality upscale. However, it makes for good window browsing and people watching as a cross-section of Hong Kong makes it indoors especially after hours and on weekends.

There are many restaurants to choose from, both at Pacific Place and between the three hotels. I''ll focus on Conrad's selections. Nicholini's serves Northern Italian food and our meal there was quite good (and quite expensive). You can expect the attentive service and luxurious settings as with other upscale hotel restaurants. There is a more casual setting at Garden Cafe. It is in a wonderful open space with windows facing the pool (did I mention there is a heated outdoor pool? Pure bliss in the summer heat). Sometimes the Cafe offers buffets, and the menu serves both Asian and Western dishes. I have not been to Brasserie on the Eighth (French food) nor the Golden Leaf (Cantonese food), nor two lounge/bars in the hotel. I''ve been told they are comfortable and are ideal settings to meet up with friends or unwind after a long day.

Link to their website: http://www.conrad.com.hk/

This is across the street from the Peak Tower and a world of difference from the sleek modern quarters. This is a quaint restaurant decorated in colonial style, a reminder of Hong Kong's past. The dining room is very intimate, but you should come here for the outdoor gardens. The tables outside have a nice view of Lamma Island and the South of Hong Kong offers a different perspective on the fast-paced city. The food here is quite good, with both pan-Asian and European cuisines.

Soho stands for South of Hollywood (Street). This is the new Lan Kwai Fong, and there are some first-class restaurants here. They tend to be smaller in scale and serve authentic European cuisines. To get here, take the pedestrian escalator up from Central to Elgin Street (this is an adventure in itself-this elevator goes all the way up the hill, one of the longest in the world.)

The last time I was here, I had an excellent Northern Italian meal in an intimate small restaurant. The Italian chef came out to talk to us afterwards and the service was excellent. Since we had a large group, we even had small menus handwritten for the table. Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the place, but there are many such restaurants in the area. There are many pubs and bars as well, and they are frequented by HK yuppies and expats alike. Check out www.timeout.com for their recommendations.

This is one of Hong Kong's oldest restaurants. Unlike Luk Yue, the venerable tea house, Yung Kee has constantly upgraded itself to the contemporary demands of HK. Everyone comes here for their roast goose (note well it is goose and not duck, as is the case in many other places). This is excellent, and Yung Kee still makes them well after decades. Tender, succulent, crispy skin...yummy.

The ground floor is more informal-this used to be just large tables where people often share with strangers. It's more upscale now, but still more casual compared to the upper floors. Classic cantonese food is good here as well.

I always go for afternoon tea at either the Mandarin or the Peninsula on Kowloon side. I've been doing this since I was a little kid growing up, ordering ice cream sundaes and french pastries on a special occassion or as a reward for a good deed.

Afternoon tea is around 3pm to 6pm; it's on the second floor at the Clipper Lounge (there is a staircase from the lobby). Go a little earlier (closer to 3pm) to avoid the lines. In the summers, the place is filled with ladies who lunch, businessmen, and college-age kids, who are back for the summer from their foreign universities.

Sit down on the plush sofa's and order a tea for one or two. A pot of tea would come (Earl Grey is my favourite, and only the best tea leaves are used) and the 3-tiered silver platter of goodies. Finger sandwiches, pastries, cakes and cookies, and the best, scones with devonshire cream and rose-strawberry jam. In fact, this jam is so famous it is on sale in the fabulous cake shop. Prices are high, but I think worth it! There is also a jazz band with singer, excellent ambience to accompany the quiet chatter and excellent food.

Clipper Lounge also offers a buffet lunch, which I think is first rate.

The Peninsula Hotel is an institution in Hong Kong and a tribute to the granduer of her colonial past. Stroll up the grand stairs, have the elegant bell boy open the door for you, and you will be met by opulence. It is here in the lobby that afternoon tea is served between 3pm and 6pm. Come here for the full experience, the service, the food, the echo of voices around you. I would go to the Mandarin for intimacy or the Regent and the Grand Hyatt for their city views, but you must make a trip here for the luxury of it all.

Of course, Felix is the famous Philip Starck designed restaurant at the top floor of the hotel, but to save money, I usually just go for drinks after dinner. (That is another popular pastime in the city, friends gathering for drinks after mandatory dinners with family).

This hole-in-the-wall serves only Chinese desserts. Healthy sweet soups with lotus seeds, ground almond soups, ground sesame soups, sweet soup with chinese herbs and hard boiled egg, egg custard (the best!) and Chinese sponge cake. There are many combinations on the menu. This is and has been one of Hong Kong's best Chinese dessert places. In the old days, chauffeurs would wait outside in their Rolls-Royces while the rich family would mingle elbow to elbow with the working class. I grew up making late night trips to this place!

The Lobster Bar has been a favorite restaurant of mine dating from the time I lived in Hong Kong many years ago. I remember the special lunches and dinners here with my family, all of whom are passionate about seafood. Dating back to about ten years ago, this was one of the first French-style seafood restaurants in the city and it was immensely popular with both the business crowd and locals. Located in the Island Shangri-La Hotel, one of several hotels at Pacific Place, Lobster Bar is beautifully decorated in wooden panels, leather and has an impressive aquarium at the entrance. Mind you, this is not the typical fish tanks you see in local Chinese restaurants. This one is very beautifully done and fits right in with the rest of the decor.

During lunch hour on a typical weekend, expect to find more business lunches and the occasional ladies-who-lunch crowd. I recommend making a reservation as the place tends to fill up quickly. Dinners and weekends may be easier to get into without a reservation but unless you are staying nearby, I would recommend a phone call ahead to avoid disappointment. However, there are many choices within Pacific Place in case you find yourself without a table here.

Sink into one of the large comfortable leather chairs and browse the short menu. I almost always start with the lobster bisque, which is excellent and one of the best I've had. Then I move onto the seafood platter, which comes in three sizes. This include a selection of lobster and raw oysters, clams and mussels. It comes in an elegant three-tiered platter and and the quality is always top-notch. Order the size according to how voracious your appetite is! Do keep in mind that the quantity verges on the plentiful side.

If you choose to avoid the lobster and the raw selections, there are choices of other seafood such as grilled fish and a few pasta dishes. There is usually a seasonal dish available as well. If you still have room after your meal, try the crème brulee, which I think is excellent. It is creamy with a slight hint of vanilla, with a light caramel crust.

On some evenings, there is a live band and on Sundays, a seafood buffet. I like this place because of the lounge-like atmosphere and the noise-level is conducive to conversation with friends and family. This is also another example of the excellent restaurants in hotels in Hong Kong.

The Peak is the top of Victoria Peak on HK Island. The funky structure at the top is different from the old building I grew up with. Equally as eye-catching but this one more contemporary and Sci-Fi looking, it boasts restaurants, shops and a food court. Most take the Peak Tram from Cotton Tree Drive terminal in Central. This is a funicular (tram pulled up and down by a cable) and offers an often steep ride up the HK hills. The view is nice and you get a peek at apartment buildings along the way. You can also take the number 15 public bus 15 from Central station. This is a nice ride up the windy roads and offers great views as well, especially if you sit at the top of the double decker buses. I like to walk around the stores and have lunch at the Peak Cafe (across the street from the Peak Tower). If I have time, I like to stroll around the peak on a trail. Then entrance is next to the tower and takes at least one hour. There are parks and little pavillion look-outs along the way. Nice view.

There are several streets in Mongkok famous for its local markets. These are street vendors and small stores with all kinds of merchandise. My personal favourite is Fa Yuen Street, betweem Prince Edward West and Mongkok Streets. This is the upper strip of Fa Yuen Street, close to the food market. Take the MTR to Prince Edward or Mongkok station. Fa Yuen Street is not touristy at all-you will find yourself amongst locals only. I always find fashionable clothes (very Japanese and European styles), good quality cottons (socks, undershirts), handbags, sports clothes, cheap electronics, pajamas, silk scarves, pantyhose (really cheap in HK!!!) etc. There are the brand names, of course, and they are well made!

The more touristy part is called Ladies Street, comprising of lower Fa Yuen Street, Tung Choi Street and Sai Yeung Choi Street. I find the merchandise here of lower quality and more tourist oriented. It's worth the walk though, if you are already in the area, if not for shopping then for the atmosphere.

This tour explores the New Territories, the outskirts of the city on the Kowloon side. This area has experienced tremendous expansion in the last twenty years or so. What used to be vast countryside, farms and villages are now self-sufficient concrete jungles linked by mass transit.

Since Hong Kong is so densely populated, the expansion is logical. What amazes me is the speed of expansion. I often go on drives with my parents on my visits and all I hear is them saying..."This used to be paddy fields/farms and now it's a shopping center/housing complex/industrial plant!"

I am a big fan of HK Tourist Association because they do a good job with their tours, promotions and information. Every year, the organization picks 100 or so university students who study abroad and put them through a program called "Student Ambassadors." It educates them about all facets of HK so the students can spread the word. I was part of that program and I joined the "Land Between" tour at that time. Since then, I have recommended this tour to visitors and here is the approximate itiniery.

The tour takes about 6 hours and transportation is on comfortable air-conditioned coaches. It picks passengers up at various hotels and then goes on to drive through the New Territories. You will pass through "satellite" towns (self-sufficient concrete jungles!), small villages, the occasional farm before making a stop at a Buddhist monastery. You will also make a stop at a lookout point from one of the mountains, see a rural market, a bird sanctuary, a fishing village and the Sha Tin horse-racing track. In between, there is a Chinese lunch.

This is a good cross-section and if you don't have much time, a great way to see something different. There are other off the beaten path tours offered by HKTA. Check their website for more details or your hotel front desk.

Although this tea store has several branches, including one in the upscale Landmark shopping center, Taikooshing and Wan Chai, I like to come to this branch. It has more of a local flavour to it plus the added bonus of exploring Sheung Wan, the district beyond Central that still retains traces of the past.

Tea is taken very seriously here, especially with the upsurge in recent interest around the globe. There is an entire ritual as to how to brew and serve certain kinds of tea, on a more practical level compared to the Japanese ceremony. Water temperatures, brewing times, type of teapot, all are taken into consideration with the type of tea.

In addition to tea, there is an interesting collection of teapots. The most famous and expensive pots are made with clay from the Wuxi area in China. There come in various sizes and with some interesting shapes and decorative details. Although delicate, they travel well when packed with care.

As a bonus, Wing Kut Street is lined with stores selling fashion accessories, anything from brooches to hair pins to necklaces. Some of these are for export only as the signs on the doors will tell you. That means they will only sell in large quantities and not individual pieces. However, the majority welcomes shoppers and there are some good quality pieces at bargain prices.

When Hong Kong mogul David Tang first opened this store years ago, it was immediately seized by locals and tourists as a brilliant idea. Marrying modern western elements into eastern objects was nothing new, but the way it was done at Shanghai Tang made its merchandise hip, high quality and well-packaged for the discerning shopper.

The entrance to the store on Theatre Lane is a replica of old boutique facades with elaborate signage and decoration. The store itself is reminiscent of the old days and the staff well trained and attentive.

The main floor is where the gift section resides. Here you can find Mao motif cufflinks, silver dim sum baskets, silk covered photo albums etc. You will notice that lime green, violet purple, bright red and blue are the signature colors. Mensware is also on this floor, but I would recommend going to Chinese Arts and Crafts for the traditional silk pajamas or shirts.

On the second floor, there is women's fashion. There are ready-to-wear cheongsams and other clothing, as well as scarves and accessories. There is also a couture division for custom made items. I would probably buy the fabric somewhere else and go to a local tailor for better pricing.

On the same floor, there is a small area for sitting and waiting. There are nicely placed tables, tables and some song birds in bamboo cages. Sit down and pretend you are in an old Chinese tea house.

Some of the novelty has worn off the store's concept, especially since there is now a small branch in New York city plus sales over the internet. However, this store is still worth a visit and you may be able to find some bargains during sale times.

Ocean Park has developed and expanded into the big amusement park it is today. It is a combination of thrill rides, world-class aquarium, themed gardens, marine park and a recreated Chinese Village all rolled into one. It is divided into three parts: Lowland, which is the immediate area of the entrance; Headland, connected by cable car; Middle Kingdom, reachable by long escalator.

Younger kids tend to gravitate towards the Dinosaur Discovery Trail, with lifelike replicas of dinosaurs, rides, playgrounds to entertain. They also like the pair of pandas An An and Jia Jia. Another highlight is the Marine Land, a wave cove with sea lions, penguins and an aquarium with lots of sharks.

The cable car ride is one of the highlights here. The bubble shaped cars go up a steep hill and then around the coastline to the other side of the hill. You are quite high up and the rocks below with the crashing waves are scary. But the view is incredible and the ride very peaceful. It takes about 8 minutes.

The biggest highlight is the Atoll Reef. This is huge, and bills itself to be one of the biggest in the world. There are four levels of viewing areas, which are really tunnels that weave through the aquarium. This is alot of fun and educational for both adults and children.

Of course, there are the thrill rides. The roller coaster is quite fun. Since you are perched on top of the hill, there are several instances when you feel you are thrown over the cliff and out to sea! However, the rides are quite standard and not really the main attraction here. In headland, there is also the Park Tower, which has a revolving platform at the top and has good views of nearby Aberdeen and the islands.

You can reach the Middle Kingdom by the long escalator down (these are very popular in Hong Kong and can also be found in the Mid-Levels going down to Central.) There is a recreation of an old Chinese Village with streets, temples, pagodas. Sometimes, there are street performances such as acrobats and magicians. The Exhibition Hall explains some history such as foot binding and the Great Wall as well as thousands of years of Chinese history.

If you only have a few days to spend in Hong Kong, then obviously you would not want to spend a day at Ocean Park. But if you are here for a longer visit or have kids who are sick and tired of sightseeing, come here for some entertainment. Beware that locals enjoy this place too and weekends and public holidays can be crowded.

Ocean Park can be reached by Citybus from Admiralty MTR or from Star Ferry (HK side) pier. Fares with round trip bus: HK$174, adults / HK$87, children

http://www.oceanpark.com.hk/

Chinese Arts and Crafts has been a reliable source for wonderful shopping for many years. It has improved immensely in service and quality in the last decade and is now a modern department store offering the full spectrum of Chinese made products. I always make it a point to stop by to pick up gifts for family and friends back home as well as personal items for myself.

There are several locations around the city, the most convenient and comfortable for browsing being this branch and the Pacific Place branch. (I believe there is another store in the China Resources Building in Wan Chai.) The Kowloon branch has multiple levels. When you first walk in, you will see handcrafted jade and other precious stones as well as delicate embroidery on display in the various glass cases. These items are very beautiful to look at and most are very expensive.

On the upper floor, there are more suitable items for purchase. Household items include placemats, tableclothes and napkins, bed linens. The quality here is high and the prices are reasonable. The range is wide from delicate emboideries to every-day use items.

For clothing, I have purchased kung fu robes and pants for my husband and male friends. They also have Mao style jackets and silk, cotton and flannel pajamas. Sizes tend to be on the smaller side so when in doubt, step up in size. Remember also that cotton tends to shrink in length (none of these are pre-shrunk) so keep that in mind as well.

For women, I have been a big fan of the flannel pajamas made in China. They come in floral and other patterns and are very soft and wearable. The silk underwear is also reasonably priced and are perfect for winters. My mother has bought her cheongsam here to wear at my wedding. They have a great selection of gowns with modern cuttings and nice details. Scarves are also a big hit here, as well as silk-filled jackets (called "meen lap".) These are incredibly warm and are cut in Chinese style with the braided buttons. Red, black and blue tend to be the traditional colors and these are available for both sexes and in all sizes including infants.

There are, of course, other arts and craft items such as paintings, porcelain, ceramics, wood carvings, furniture. These come in small well-priced items ideal for small gifts to expensive high-quality and expensive items. I have never tried this but I believe shipping is available to all parts of the world.

Some of my well-received gifts in the past include small replicas of silk shoes worn by bound feet women. These are about five inches long and have wonderful silk emboidery all around. Lace products are also popular, as are interesting chopstick rests. There are many things to choose from here and you can always depend on the high quality and reasonable prices.

The white and green ferry cruising back and forth from Victoria Harbour is probably the single most recognized icon of Hong Kong, after the red rickshaws. Unlike the rickshaws, which are now extinct except for a few available to pose for photos, these ferries are still the workhorses, shuttling people back and forth from both sides of the harbour. Before the harbor tunnels were built ferries were the only connection between the two sides.

For me, the 5 minute ride across the harbour always evokes a feeling of nostalgia. So much has changed in Hong Kong and this is the best way to sit back to observe and digest these changes. There is a token booth to pay your ticket or you can just deposit the coins in one of the old turnstiles. Go up the stairs and follow the crowd to the entrance. If there is no ferry docked, just wait. When you hear a ferry starting to dock, walk over to the gates. There will be a loud whistle and the sailor will open the gates. Beware of people pushing and shoving to be the first to get on the ferry for a good seat!

Locals joke that only tourists take the upper level (called First Class and costs $2.20 HK.) The benches are nicer and you are on the higher second level. I do enjoy the lower level more (called Second Class and costs $1.70.) You can stand on the edge and watch the waves crash underneath you. Plus you also get a nicer view of the city as there are no glass windows in the bow as in First Class.

The sound of the waves crashing alongside the ferry, the coming and goings of ocean liners, fishing boats, barges and yachts in the harbour, the view of the skyscrapers and hills...it gives me a chance to sit back and take it all in. It's a great way to check out the physical changes, to note what was built since my last visit. Hong Kong is always on the go and there is never a dull moment. The ferry ride gives me a moment to look back at the city and admire her strengths and beauty. Day or night, this is a beautiful ride. For the price, you can afford to take this in as many times as you like.

On the Hong Kong side, the pier is right by City Hall. On the Kowloon side, it is by Ocean Center and the big old clock.

I got one of my best deals on HK through Cathay Pacific Airways 2 years ago. Once you sign up with them on their website Cathay Pacific you can make reservations online and recieve emails about special deals. I heard about the deal for $495 roundtrip from NY to HK plus hotel rooms for $50 to $80. They were with Regal Hotel chains, which are good quality hotels in central areas. However, since HK is pulling out of the recession now, I don't think we can see another deal like that. But Cathay does offer a $999 30-day Asia pass, meaning you can fly from NY or LA or SF to HK or any place in Asia as well as travel within Asia for 30 days. There are some fine lines, such as surcharges for traveling on weekends and certain destinations. Also, when you buy a ticket through them, you can also book hotels at special rates as well. It's still a good deal, so check it out.

For good rates on hotels, check out this website Traveller HK recommended by many of my friends in Asia.The site offers good discounts on high quality hotels.

Hong Kong Tourist Association: No visit to Hong Kong should be made without first consulting this official tourist information office. They have a very accessible website at HK Tourist Association. They have an office at the Star Ferry terminal and at the airport. They provide an array of maps, transportation guides, colorful brochures and itiniery recommendations. They also have tours if you are interested.

South China Morning Post: This is the largest English-language newspaper in HK (and throughout Asia as well, I think). Visit their site at SCMP (you need to first register, it's free) and read about recent happenings in the city.

Also visit Totally HK for their affiliate site. This gives you entertainment guides as well as information for those who want to move there. This site is very useful.

Time Out Hong Kong: Visit their website at Timeout HK. I found this to be a very hip authority on a good time in HK. I liked their culinary recommendations and activity guide.

There are extravagant fireworks displays in the Hong Kong harbour on select holidays and ocassions. For example, Chinese New Year and Oct 1, National Day. If you plan to be in town around those times, see if you can get a room facing the harbour, or else ask your hotel or the HK Tourist Association where the best place is to watch it.

Cantonese Chinese has 9 tones, yes, a full 9 tones, which makes it much harder to learn than Mandarin. Now that HK has reverted back to Chinese rule, Mandarin is spoken much more there, but the main language is still Cantonese. English is spoken almost everywhere, but for fun, here are a few basic phrases to get you started:

How are you? Nei hoe ma?, Very good! Hoe hoeI , please mm goi Please speak English mm goi gong ying mun , I don't understand ngau mm ming. Thank you-for doing something mm goi, same as please, Thank you-for a gift do jie, I would like to go ____ ngau seung heui____, I would like to have ___ ngau seung yiu___, You've got style! nei hoe yau ying!, Tastes good hoe hoe sik, Hong Kong is very beautiful Heung Gong hoe leng

OK, hope this gets you started. If this does not make any sense, feel free to email me! Have fun.