Day of the Dead in San Miguel

It would be hard not to love San Migual especially during a celebration. Much like our own Halloween the eve Day of the Dead here is something not to miss. That aside, San Miguel is a picturesque and charming colonial city of international fame full of interesting architecture, facinating people - both local and expatriot, home to remarkable cultural education in the arts and in lanuages and a lively night life.

Quick Tips:

If coming in the winter, as many tourists do to escape the 'cold' of wherever home is, keep in mind that San Migual is in the highlands (something like 6000 feet altitude) and can get downright chilly. Bring a light jacket or at least a sweater along for the evenings.

Best Way To Get Around:

You can fly into Mexico City or Leon and bus the rest on to San Miguel. We went via Mexico City, taxied to the Norte bus terminal and caught one of the many buses leaving for San Miguel for about . The first class buses are clean, air conditioned and even provide a video complete with English subtitles. Another alternative is the shuttle service orffered by Viajes San Miguel that leaves the airport every two hours for San Miguel and cost about . e-mail: travelsm@unisono.ciateq.mx or telephone 415-2-25-37 to make reservations. Once in San Miguel you'll either walk or taxi about the city - your choice.

We arrived in San Miguel by bus after dark and as our taxi muttered something about 'this way muya rapido' and drove off into the underbrush the thought crossed my mind, 'This is it; this is whre we get mugged in Mexico.' But I was just being a paranoid tourist as soon we were bumping down the cobblestone streets and arrived at the motel Quinta Loreto, our nest for the next month. What a pleasant surprise it turned out to be! Large, comfortable rooms and private, tiled bathrooms are kept pristine clean daily by the same friendly maid. The surrounding grounds and gardens add to the amibiance. We will certainly return to Quinto Lareto. Note: credit cards are not accepted so bring enough cash to cover your stay.

Since we were staying in the attached motel, we often ate breakfast at this friendly cafe. The large, bright dining room, colorful tablecloths, huge stone fireplace complete with sleeping dog in front of it, set the ambiance for what we have come to see as truly Mexican - 'casual and caring.' The meals served were large and delicious. Many returning tourists come to this place year and year and breakfast at the Quinta Lareto seemed to be the gathering place for many. We will definentely be joining those that come back again and again! Note: The cafe is open limited hours - about 8-10:30AM and 2-5PM

We wandered down the cobblestone streets of San Miguel every morning to the Jardin Principal where we would buy a newspaper and then sit on one of the many park benches and let the early morning sun warm us while we caught up on the news of the day. With so many Americans and other expatriots now making this their home finding reading material in English was easy.

Another part of this favorite time of the day for me was 'people watching'. So many Americans in every size, shape and color. I had fun trying to discern which were the ones now making San Miguel their home and which, like me, were true gringos.

The local people seemed to have that same quiet grace I've observed in other Latin Amican countries - especially the women. Delightful children ran about giggling, playing with palatodos or chasing the pidgeons. Not once did I see a crying child or a temper tantrum - only precious happy children that greeted me with 'Buenos diaz, Senora' and a wide smile.

This shady park is the center of the city and the place where nearly all the celebrations take place including the festive events on October 31 - the eve of Day of the Dead. But in the early morning hours you'll find tourists and locals alike reading their newspapers on the long park benches or perhaps feeding the many pidgeons that have come to expect to be fed. Across the street is the magnificent Parroquia Church dating from 1683 with its towering pinnacles reaching toward the sky.

For those traveling to San Miguel I encourage that you too begin your day at the Jardin Principal.

In America we call it Halloween. In Mexico it has a more spiritual significance and is called La Diaz Muertes - the day they honor their dead. Actually the clebration goes on for two days - Oct 31 and Nov 1 and what a celebration it is in San Miguel!

After our siesta we dressed and walked down the cobblestone streets to the jardin where the celebration was already taking place. What a spectacle! It seemed as if everyone in San Migual had turned out this evening to party. People of all ages meandered around the square which is truly a community gathering place.

Many of the children wore costumes not unlike 'trick-or-treaters' back home. They looked adorable in their ghoulish costumes. The theme seemed to be 'the underworld' with so many vampires, mummies and ghosts. The little girls seemed to favor being 'little witches' with only a few 'princesses' among the crowd. I was happy to recognize several of the children that sell Chicklets daily in the park. They do this to help the family earn money. Life is hard for these kids but tonight their smiles are from ear to ear. I had brought a large bag of candy and began passing it out to the children who each responded with a shy, 'Gracias'.

Marachi music filled the air and tourists and locals of all ages began dancing in the streets. Young lovers reclined, intertwined in the darker corners of the park. Old men sat together on the long benches smiling and nodding as we walked passed. Mothers smiled and graciously thanked us as we dropped penny candy into the small children's pumpkin candy holders.

It was a magnificent evening spent in the jardin by the light of an almost full moon and the glittering lights of the towering Parroquia Church across the street light especially for this celebration - Diaz Muertes.

We sat down on the stone hedge that surrounds the park and let our senses fill up with this wonderful Mexican moment. The kaleidoscope of costumes, the smell of hot grease from the many street venders frying corn tortillas mingling with the sweet odor of night air, the festive music competing with the rumble of engines as police cars circled the park in full force this evening, more a presence than a necessity.

Then, finally, when it seemed the party would go on all night we retraced our steps back to our motel where we continued to hear the sounds of celebration until sunrise the following morning.