Costa Rican Odyssey

Day trip to Poas Volcano
River trip on the Pacuare River
Day trip on the Reventazon River
Manuel Antonio National Park
Monteverde Cloud Forest
Day trip on the Corbici River
Arenal Volcano
Cahuita and Puerto Viejo

Quick Tips:

Less than ten minutes away by bus or cab from the international airport is the small city of Alajuela. We really enjoyed staying here because it has everything that San Jose has except all the people and the museums, but is much more tranquil. It's a good place to stay, especially if you arrive at night due to its proximity to the airport. If you really need to do business in San Jose, bus service is plentiful, cheap and frequent.

It's always a good idea to make reservations before leaving for your destination. Ticos, as Costa Ricans call themselves, love to party and hotels at the popular beaches and parks can fill up quickly especially on the weekends. The phone system is very good and so plan on buying a phone card available in hotels and stores. Ticos are extremely friendly, and any attempt at using your Spanish will usually result in striking up a friendly conversation.

Best Way To Get Around:

Of course rental cars are the best way to get around, albeit pricey. Public transportation via bus, can be from deluxe to basic and is readily available, with schedules to fit most travel plans are available. Whatever bus mode you choose, it is always easy on the pocketbook, i.e. Alajuela to San Jose about .00. Within major cities taxis are inexpensive and abundant. Of course walking about town, the beach or in the parks always connects the traveler to the ambiance of Costa Rica.

While we have enjoyed many different accommodations in Costa Rica, our favorite thus far has to be the Posada. It is a small, neat motel nestled between private residences. There are five or six pleasant rooms, each having a private bath, a combination of double and single beds, a fan and an outdoor patio. The Posada is approximately 1 1/2 blocks from the beach, and restaurants and mini markets are a stone's throw away. Perhaps its best feature are the proprietors, Leticia and Mariela, who are incredibly friendly and helpful and maintain a small reference library and lend or exchange books.

We found ourselves wandering towards the San Clemete at different times of the day. For breakfast we enjoyed the Hungry Surfer special with unlimited coffee for about $2.00. Lunches and dinners included burgers, salads and freshly grilled fish for $4.00 to $8.00. Don't forget to sample the owner Mike's homemade hot sauces. While the cuisine catered to American tastes, the familiar gallo pinto and other Tican staples were always available on the menu.

This was a great place to hang out and take advantage of the bulletin board, play at the pool and football tables and pick up on the local scene. The San Clemete is also the bus stop, post office and taxi stand. The restaurant is also the place to get your morning CNN fix on cable TV while drinking coffee or batidos on the outdoor patio.

Although the tour company we went with specializes in trips on the Rio General we were lucky enough to call when they were planning a rafting trip on the little known, seldom run Rio Coto Brus. After being picked up at our motel we were driven down the new highway south to Ciudad Cortez in a comfortable 20-passenger bus. We then turned inland and traveled up the main highway alongside the Rio Terraba. This journey took about 1 1/2 hours and turned out to be a tour all by itself. After arriving at the put in and a quick safety briefing, we were off down river. Within five minutes, we saw our first tribe of squirrel monkeys and had negotiated the first of many rocky rapids. Our 4 hour trip continued with only one minor upset at a sharp turn river right, which momentarily pinned our raft on the bankside rock wall. Two passengers spilled out of the raft only to be rescued quickly in the calm water below the rapid by the safety kayaker. The river-side lunch adjacent to a nest of Choquarcos, a threathened bird species rarely seen even in Costa Rica, was an unexpected treat. Just above the take out near the confluence with the Rio General we observed crocodiles basking on small beaches and declined the guides invitation for a cooling swim before our return.

This trip is most easily accomplished if you stay in Alajuela since the volcano is not far. From Alajuela, you also have a good view of Poas' summit and the weather up top. It is often rainy, so the best time to go is usually early before the clouds build and obsure the views of the caldera. A rent-a-car would be good for this trip, since you can decide at a moment's notice if the weather looks right, but public buses leave daily in the a.m. from Alajuela and San Jose. Bring rain gear or an umbrella although the latter along with rubber boots can be rented at the park's info center. There is also a short hike to a lake situated in an ancient crater of Poas.

This is one of the can't miss spots in Costa Rica. Unfortunately most people don't miss it so you can always expect it to be crowded! That said, it is still one of the best locales to visit. Buses depart from San Jose's Coca Bus Terminal at regular intervals for the 4-5 hour trip to Quepos/ Manuel Antonio. The beaches, and there are 3 within a 15 minute hike from the park entrance, are beautiful. The wildlife plentiful (bring bananas to feed the White-face monkeys), and the snorkeling fantastic! A hike on the Punta Catedral trail or on the inland trail system should yield some good wildlife sightings. The port city of Quepos is a 15-20 minute bus ride away from the park entrance(fee) and is a good bargain compared to the somewhat overpriced accomodations in Manuel Antonio. Wherever you choose to stay, calling ahead for reservations is a good idea especially for a weekend visit or any lodging in Manuel Antonio.

Arenal and the town of Fortuna are about a 4 hour drive or 5 hour bus ride from San Jose. Arenal is the quintissential volcano, conical shape, cloud-shrouded, with ash and debri rolling down its steep sides. If you're lucky you may catch one of those perfect nights when the whole upper slopes of the volcano are glowing red! Staying in Fortuna and using it as a base to take day trips from is the easiest way to go. A wide variety of lodging and restaurants make Fortuna the logical choice due to its proximity to Arenal. If you have an extra day plan on a trip to the Tabacon Hotsprings about 8 miles from Fortuna and at the base of Arenal. Hiking in the National Park and whitewater river running are also options.