Duino, Small Town Italy--Beyond Venice

Swim in the Adriatic.
If you are male, admire the lovely and beautiful Italian female bodies on the beach.
If you are female, wish you looked as good as the beautiful Italian female bodies on the beach!
Visit the Castle at Duino--the Dama bianca (white lady). Only recently opened to the public, this is a real treat and escape into Italian history. Also, a visit the Castle at Miramare--with its historic gardens. On our last visit, there was a fantastic garden display titled "La Vita della Farfalla" (Life of the Butterfly).

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

A rental car us really necessary to visit this area. Castles, coves, beaches, churches,museums and historic sites abound--but public transportation is slow and probably not your best choice.

A Five-Star Hotel-- It’s Not! In fact, if you look at Italy’s hotel ratings, the Dama Bianca carries only two stars. But for us, this tiny place, with its fantastic views, discreet charm, friendly atmosphere and dedicated service rates far more than just five stars! I must admit, I have been enjoying this lovely retreat for many years. I selfishly have never shared it with others because I sincerely hope it will never lose its quietly elegant atmosphere. I have abundant memories of parties, weddings, visits and friends I’ve met here.

Several years ago some Italian friends referred us to a marvelous seafood restaurant situated beside a tiny cove within the Gulf of Duino, "Oh and by the way, they also have eight rooms upstairs." It was love at first sight for us, and now there is no other hotel we even consider when staying in the Trieste area.

The rooms are small, but quite adequate, and the bathroom is actually quite nice (modern with blue ceramic tile, good sized shower, and bidet). If you decide to stay, be sure to request a room with bath(if you want your own bathroom) because they have a few rooms with the shower and toilet down the hall. You will have a comfortable bed, color TV, direct dial telephone, desk--and that’s about it! The rooms are impeccably clean!

What makes this hotel very special for us?--

--A balcony off your room with a small table and chairs where you can watch beautiful sunsets, view the harbor at Duino and the Adriatic beyond, and sip a delightful glass of wine. Definitely one of the most quiet and romantic spots we have ever visited!
--There are very few American tourists here. You will really experience the feel of Europe. You will encounter visiting Croatians, Italians and Germans--but seldom will you see other Americans. However, beware that very little English is spoken in this area.
--Owners Rino and Bianca are ever-present to ensure refined hospitality. Rino will share a glass of Prosecco (the local bubbly) and some home-baked cookies to greet you upon arrival. Bianca is always available and definitely "in-charge" of hotel and restaurant operations. Son Dario speaks fluent English and will share many travel experiences with you if he is on-site during your visit.

Each morning you will experience "brioches" (crusty rolls filled with strawberry marmalade) baked on-site overnight, freshly squeezed juice and hearty cappuccino served on the "terrazza" (patio) as your "prima colazione" (breakfast). Breakfast price is included in the room rate.

Room rate for two people = double room with bath and breakfast is about 100 Euros per day.

I like the genuine trattoria ambience of Al Caballuccio (the seahorse) Ristorante. The outdoor tables, with red and white cloths, and inside -- wooden floors, marble bar, beamed ceilings with large bladed fans all blend to a wildly friendly atmosphere. Situated just steps from the harbor at Duino, the outdoor tables are always full if the weather is good.

The local maritime cuisine revolves above all around the quality of the fish and simple cooking methods, which bring its taste to the fore. Main attractions include superb seafood starters and beautifully seasoned risottos. Shellfish, salads and the absolute best baked and grilled Istrian fish. Be a bit careful of what you order, I was shocked the first time I ordered shrimp and they arrived with the head still on!

Jose Gustavo Martinez, a native of Argentina, is the Owner-waiter here. He works here 6 months, then returns to Argentina to work in his restaurant there. He is also the author of L’ULTIMO- MAGGIORDOMO a book on the history of the Castle at Duino. He was proud to sign the copy we bought.

For lunch one day, my husband and I each had Caprese, that beautiful blend of mozzarella cheese, fresh ripe tomatoes and basil--all artfully drizzled with olive oil. My tagliatello with mixed seafood was an excellent blend of flavors atop a lightly seasoned pasta. Dear husband loved the Spaghetti scoglio--a blend of clams, mussels and other shellfish in a pesto sauce atop spaghetti. We shared a half-liter of the house wine and were too full to have dessert. Total cost for the meal was 45,50 Euros.

The night before we left Duino, we hosted a small dinner party for six friends and the cost for a lovely meal including wine was about 145,00 Euros.

The number of cars on the road decreased significantly; however, the speed did not!! The road makes its way upward out of Venice, Northbound along Italy’s A4 Autostrada. It suddenly seems quieter-- the hustle and bustle of Venice is behind us and we begin to experience the quality of a smaller, quieter, less touristed area.

Stretching beyond, lies a strip of land comprised of the Bay of Sistiana, the tiny village of Duino, the Aquatic reserve at Miramare and the Port of Trieste: all of which form The Gulf of Trieste. Cascades of flowers cling to towering limestone cliffs and tumble gracefully into the Adriatic Sea below.

Our stay at Duino included visits with friends in the cities of Sistiana and Trieste, a look at the recently opened Castle of Duino (the White Lady), a quick stop at the United World College and of course, a visit to the beach and Harbor at Duino.

Parking is a precious commodity around the harbor and beach at Duino. We found it easier to park at the top of the hill overlooking the bay and walk the steep steps down to the harbor and beach below.

Two choices for beach areas are available: First choice is the breakwater / jetty area beside the harbor. Here you can spread your towel, gaze at the Adriatic and soak up rays for free. Since topless bathing is fully acceptable here, you can also do a little "people watching" if you are so inclined.

Second choice is to pay a few Euros and enjoy the umbrellas, cabanas, beach chairs and outside bar of the pristine sandy beach beside the Alla Damma Bianca Restaurant.

We always select option 2--because we enjoy the sun under an umbrella (we are pretty pale by Italian standards), and we can wander up to the lovely outside bar at the Restaurant for a cool one when we have the need!!

After a few hours in the sun, I had satisfied my attempt at becoming a bronze goddess and Dear Hubby had fulfilled his need to view the spectacular young ladies on the jetty beyond.

We walked to the nearby Al Caballuccio Ristorante (see my separate review) for a delightful meal before beginning the trek back up the steps to our rental car.

Truly a lady with an unspeakable past, the Castle at Duino has been referred to as the "Dama Bianca" or White Lady since her very beginning. The original fortification dates from the 11th century and spawned the fishing village and harbor of Duino below. Situated amid limestone cliffs, her magnificent view of the coastline provided early warning of approaching hostile vessels.

Sold to the Hapsburgs of Austria in 1472, she passed through the hands of various Vicars, Princes and other Sovereigns. Her history is remarkably rich, with many accounts of battles between the Romans and Istrii taking place here. Its even said that Atilla the Hun made camp at the castle at one time.

Traditionally, old castles must each have a variety of stories, myths, and legends. The most popular legend of the Castle at Duino concerns the Lady of the Castle Esterine da Portole, known as the White Lady. It tells that she was thrown from the garden to the sea below by her jealous husband in a fit of fury. On entering the sea, she was turned into a white rock. There is, in fact, a white rock nearby which resembles the form of a woman. Further, it’s said that every night the ghost of the Lady visits the bedroom of her beloved daughter where she remains until dawn before returning to her rock in the sea.

Opened to the public in 2002, the castle has been completely restored and contains many pieces of original art, sculpture and furnishings. Entry fee is 6 Euros and you can stroll the castle and gardens at your leisure. The tower, gardens and pond areas provide good photo ops, unfortunately, photos may not be taken inside the castle. Don't miss the climb to the top of the tower -- it confirms the coastline view for which the castle is so well known.