Good Eats in the Windy City

Chicago has stepped into the light as a food-lover's paradise. From top-end restaurants such as Charlie Trotter's and Ambria all the way down to corner dives serving Chicago "dawgs" (100% pure beef hot dog, poppy seed bun, yellow mustard, sweet relish, chopped onions, pickle spear, tomato, celery salt, sport peppers), there's something for every taste here. I swear that even the dives are good!

Indecisive about what to try? Come to the annual Taste of Chicago, which runs for 2 weeks at the end of June through July 4th, and brings together more than 60 restaurants to showcase their talents, in combination with top-notch entertainment from around the country. If "the Taste" seems overwhelming, there are smaller food festivals around the city during the year.

Some neighborhoods are known for their ethnicity - Devon Ave on the north side of the city has a large population of India and Pakistani restaurants; Chinatown, Little Italy, Ukranian Village, Little Korea, Greektown and other areas are home to heavy concentrations of their respective restaurants.

Outdoor dining is extremely popular in Chicago during the warmer weather. Any restaurant that can manage to get the sidewalk space or squeeze out a small patio does so - and the locals LOVE people-watching from outdoor seating. My favorite outdoor seating areas are Melrose Diner, Meritage, Twisted Spoke and Keefer's, but there are lots of great places to eat al fresco, especially at Navy Pier.

Some favorite dining memories from around Chicago:

- spending the Chinese New Year celebrations in Chinatown, then having dim sum and exploring local shops;

- checking out various local festivals;

- taking a sunset dining cruise from Navy Pier and watching the fireworks;

- doing wine tastings at Bin 36;

- shopping at Fox & Obel's food market near Navy Pier;

- picnic feasts at Ravinia, courtesy of the fantastic food court at Marshall Field's;

And lots more. If you love food, it's hard to go wrong in Chicago!

Quick Tips:

A couple of great local sources for information including event listings: Metromix - website dedicated to what is hip and happening in Chicago. Includes restaurant reviews, map links, more.

Chicago Reader - Printed version of the newspaper comes out Wednesday afternoon and is free; website available. Reader-written restaurant reviews in the back, current event listings, more.

Lettuce Entertain You - Restaurant group that rewards you for frequent dining in their establishments. All LEYE restaurants are high quality, and their variety is astounding.

Both the Chicago Cultural Center's Chicago tourism office (78 E. Washington St.) and the city tourism branch location at the Water Tower (N. Michigan Ave at E. Chicago Ave.) have visitor magazines available with coupons, as well as tourist-orientated coupon books providing a variety of discounts.

Best Way To Get Around:

Chicago is very walkable, and has an extensive quality public transportation system consisting of buses, trains and taxis. For extensive information, visit the CTA website (yourcta.com). CTA fares start at .75, and multi-day passes (a very economical choice if visiting the city for multiple days) are available.

The Chicago city grid radiates out from the crossing of State Street and Madison - everything north of State is "North" and everything west of State is "West". When in doubt, even-numbered houses are on the west and north sides of the street.

If you are driving yourself, keep in mind that on-street parking is limited and outside the Loop, parking garages are not as common. However, many restaurants offer valet parking (-10), or offer discounts for local parking garages. It is always a good idea to call ahead and ask about a restaurant's parking availability when in doubt.

In 1999, The Cheesecake Factory opened the first of its new chain of stores - the Grand Lux Cafe - in the Venetian resort in Las Vegas. To date, there are only two other GLC's: one in Los Angeles and one in Chicago, which is located on the Magnificent Mile stretch of Michigan Avenue. A friend raved and raved about the restaurant till finally I caved in and tried it out. Now I'm the one who raves and raves!

While its given address is '600 N Michigan', you actually enter the restaurant from the Ontario Street side of the building, where you are greeted by the hosts. You take an escalator upstairs to the main restaurant, which puts you right in front of the dessert counter and open kitchen for a tantalizing view as you are led to your seat.

The decor is a bit hard to describe. It's like Imperial Russia collided with Parisian dining rooms and a little dash of Vegas tossed in with a splash of Chilluly. And really, while that sounds like a train wreck, I mean it in the absolute nicest way - the Chicago restaurant is tastefully done in warm golden and maroon tones. The seating is fantastic, totally comfortable - in fact it's with no small reluctance you get up from your seats at the end of the meal.

That is, IF you can get up. Come hungry - the Grand Lux is going to feed you, and feed you heartily. They have one of the largest menus you'll see anywhere, and every choice seems to get better and better, so it's hard to decide! Be warned, even their starter salads are big, so split appetizers (which is good for those on budgets, although GLC has a wide range of prices on their menu).

My favorite appetizer (so far) is "Double Stuffed Potato Spring Rolls," which are mashed potatoes made into spring rolls - a wonderfully light and tasty variant on baked potato skins. For salads, I often get the caprese salad (fresh mozzarella, tomato, spinach and arugula). As for entrees... it's hard to decide, with nearly 100 entrees to select from, and influences that range from German (Wiener Schnitzel) to pan-Asian (shaking beef) to Caribbean (mahi mahi Barbacoa) to Italian to American to... I get something different every time and have never been let down.

If you still have room after the big meal you've just had, ponder sharing one of their tall desserts. House specialties include their chocolate chip pecan cookies (fresh baked), and their fresh beignets, which are quite tasty. They say you need to order some of their desserts half an hour in advance, but I’ve seen people order them late and have them come out faster than that.

In all, the Grand Lux is a highly satisfactory dining experience. Try them for breakfast, lunch or dinner, or on Sundays for their brunch.

Looking for someplace good to take my mom last time she was in town, I took her to the Twisted Spoke.

"A biker bar?" she asked dubiously.

Not just a biker bar... a "family biker bar," as brothers Mitch and Cliff Elnhorn have classified their establishment. How many biker bars do you know that have a recipe listed on Food TV's website? How many bars have Jack Daniels on tap, not just in bottles? How many restaurants greet you with a full-size human skeleton atop a Harley?

We visited the newer Lakeview location (3365 N. Clark, 773-525-5300) but it is true to the original (501 North Ogden Avenue at Grand, 312-666-1500), with a rusty metal exterior, motorcycle sculpture out front, biker-friendly atmosphere, tattooed/pierced waitstaff, and the excellent food.

You walk into the main area, and you realize there's an awful lot of black. And a very well-stocked bar - lots of the traditional stuff, hard liquors and beers. Traditional no-nonsense bar stools line up against the bar and a line of wooden booths ring the windows. If you're more on the "family" and less on the "biker" side of things, there's a line of picnic tables outside that serve as the Spoke's outdoor seating.

The menu has a lot of traditional favorites: burgers, sandwiches, etc. The food is fresh, and there's plenty of it when it arrives. And it is goooood! This restaurant/bar maybe isn't to everybody's tastes, but it is a fun and good place to go and hang out and have a good meal.

The Twisted Spoke is open 11am-2am daily, till 3am on Fridays and Saturdays. Although the Spoke calls itself a "family biker bar," you may want to check their schedule to see what is happening that day - the Spoke relishes its biker attitude.

PS - even my mom liked the place!

In the 1986 film, "About Last Night...", Rob Lowe is a guy who, in the end of the film, decides to open a restaurant that fufills his ideal of a comfortable local watering/dining hole. At the end of the film as his character tries to get back together with his ex-girlfriend, he wants to show her the place, and, in an effort to downplay what he's doing, calls it "just some joint," inferring that the place is so casual and laid-back that it's no big deal.

As the characters in "About Last Night..." live in Chicago, they should have just gone to P.J. Clarke's, which is actually right around the corner from a bar that many scenes in the movie focus around (Mother's).

P.J. Clarke's calls themselves "Chicago's All-Time Favorite Joint." Their original location, at 1204 N. State, is a long-time favorite in the Gold Coast section of town, exactly the kind of place that you would picture your favorite neighborhood joint to be like: long wood bar, wood floors, great food, friendly service, reasonable prices.

Their newer location, at 302 E. Illinois, retains the charm of the original in a brand-new location. Located in Streeterville, and handy to both Navy Pier and Michigan Avenue, the new P.J. Clarke's is as popular as the original. Although the new location lacks the folding doors/windows that leave the front of the Gold Coast location more open to Chicago's balmy summy air, they also sport outdoor seating, great waitstaff, wood floors, a great bar area, and the detailing to match their other location: pressed tin ceilings, ceiling fans, local memorabilia.

I used to go to the Gold Coast location all the time because I worked just a few stores away. These days I frequent their Streeterville location, especially when going to the brand-new 21 screen movie theatre next door. Almost no frou-frou food here; P.J. Clarke's feeds you, and feeds you well, on good old fashioned comfort food like chili, meatloaf, baby back ribs, chicken pot pie, steaks, sandwichs, and of course, their famous burgers - both their "Minnie" burgers (bite-size burgers) and their full-size burgers.

P.J. Clarke's is a favorite spot for sports watching as well, and when there's a big game on, a likely spot to spot a celebrity or two.

For a good place to eat, a department store may not be foremost in your mind. But the grand dame of the Chicago department stores - Marshall Field's - has their flagship location at 111 North State Street in the Loop, and this location contains not just one but several choices for refreshment while you shop.

Established in 1852, Marshall Field's was a pioneer in many ways, including being the first to offer a bridal registry and the first department store to open a dining room. The exquisite Tiffany dome that soars over the entry floor is the largest of its kind, and its holiday windows displays are a favorite for Chicagoans. Marshall Field's flagship store - the 2nd largest department store in the world - is a great place to spend hours shopping, and believe me, I could go on and on about how fun it is to explore here. Recently, Marshall Field's also installed several "boutique" shops within their store, among them a bookstore and a florist.

But we're here to talk about the food!

We begin in the basement, where, in addition to a sports bar, expansive candy/chocolate counter (Frango mints are Marshall Field's signature chocolates) and a Starbucks, you will find their do-it-yourself marketplace, which consists of a ready-made deli counter, sushi bar, sandwich counter, design-your-own-salads, and hot meals. The marketplace is constantly bustling, and I love their deli counter, particularly their pasta salads. Marshall Fields has supplied many the supplies for a picnic at Ravinia!

Upstairs on the seventh floor you will find three selections:

- The Frango Café, which offers limited food selections and is focused primarily upon desserts, especially ice cream and chocolates. This is a fabulous place to indulge a little in the middle of your day!

- The Walnut Room, ((312) 781-3125) is a local favorite, open daily 11-4, evoking memories of an earlier age. If you cannot get to the Drake Hotel for high tea, then at least try the Walnut Room, which offers delicious fare at reasonable prices. They take reservations any time of year except at the holidays - which is also their busiest time. (don't worry, outside of 12-1pm, you will likely not have to wait long for a table). Their chicken pot pie is great - although with their recent rennovations, you'll find an attractive selection to choose from.

- Seventh on State is their "other" food court - this one an upscale version decorated in blond woods and offering more "upscale" selections than the basement marketplace. Seventh on State offers several differnent counters to choose from, each with a seperate specialization such as soups, salads, Oriental, etc. The service is fast and the food is excellent.

Sushi and ... coffee?

Surely, you think, an odder pairing of foodstuffs could not be possible. But at Capra's Coffee in Chicago, it's not just possible - it's their business.

Actually, it was this odd combination that first drew me to walk into Capra's doors - for, as offbeat as the taste combination was, I was craving an espresso and had been in the mood for sushi. If their sushi looked unappetizing, I figured I could always escape to the other sushi place further down the block. Capra's is stocked with Japanese treats and of course, coffee-related goods, looking like a coffee shop ran full tilt into a Hello, Kitty store. They're also always very busy, with their limited number of tables and counter seating often filled, but their service is quick and pleasant.

They have a case of ready-made sushi available, for those of you in a hurry, but the best thing about Capra's is the sushi is fresh. It used to be that the sushi chef worked the front side of the counter, so you could watch him work, but these days the sushi is prepared in the back room, and it is wonderfully fresh; you can taste the quality. And although it may be slightly more expensive than some of the other local sushi spots, that quality makes up the difference. As they make their products fresh, you may have to wait a few minutes for delivery (especially their soups), but that is a positive as far as I'm concerned. My personal favorites are the California spicy sushi, the udon soup, and the seaweed salad.

But, lest you forget where you are, this is after all a coffee shop, and they have not only an extensive coffee/espresso drink menu, but a wide variety of teas as well. Additionally, they offer bubble teas, which is the Taiwanese version of chai - frozen blended tea/fruit drinks, served with or without tapioca balls (the "bubbles"). These unusual drinks are quite refreshing on a hot summer day.

So the next time you're craving sushi in the Loop, remember that a coffeehouse is where it's at!

Capra's Coffee (Loop)
46 S. Clark St., Chicago
312/422-0142

Capra's Coffee (Streeterville)
205 E. Ohio, Chicago
312/329-0063

In a city that actually has a Chinatown, it seems odd to suggest going elsewhere in town for a good Chinese meal, but Ben Pao in the River North area of town is a gem in what is otherwise a fairly touristy area of the city. Ben Pao is located on the corner of West Illinois and North Dearborn, just 2 blocks from the Grand stop on the Red "L" line. With its distinctive triagular red awnings and the large rotating red ball with 'Ben Pao' on it, it's hard to miss.

When you walk inside, it is like walking into a very tasteful and very serene Chinese palace - it is beautifully decorated in red, gold and black. There is a satay bar to your left, or you cross over a small bridge and stream to the main dining area.

Ben Pao blends the four great regional cuisines - Shanghai (simple), Szechuan (spicy), Mongolian (robust) and Cantonese (light) - to create its own distinct flavors. I have yet to have anything bad here... it's all very good.

For an appetizer, I am particularly fond of their potstickers, although their satay (spicy sticks of meat) are a good find. Their hot and sour soup (one of my favorite Chinese dishes) is very zesty. Most of their appetizers are familiar Chinese favorites - egg rolls, dumplings, soups, spring rolls - but generally all very light and tasty, so as to warm you up for the main meal. Additionally, Ben Pao does not use MSG!

Ben Pao does have traditional favorite for entrees, such as General Tso's chicken, Mongolian beef, and vegetarian dishes. However, I highly encourage you to try their house specialities, such as their wonderful black peppered sea scallops, Seven Flavor beef, or their Spicy Dragon noodles. Their ingredients are wonderfully fresh and the service is so good that the food is often still sizzling as it reaches your table.

Now, usually, we tend to get a little overexcited at the food, and order too much to share, so too often, we forget to leave room for dessert. However, this is a mistake, as Ben Pao offers several innovative and delicious dessert entrees - in fact, they're good enough that if you ate too much at another restaurant for dinner, you may consider coming here for dessert after you "walk off" the dinner a bit! Their chocolate spring rolls are a treat - or try their banana cheesecake or sublime mango creme brulee.

HOURS: M-Th: 11:30am-9:30pm
Fri: 11:30am-11pm
Sat: 5pm-11pm
Sun: 5pm-9pm

Having grown up in New England, I have a fondness for seafood. When I first moved to Chicago 6 years ago, I had a difficult time finding a decent seafood restaurant, an interesting thing in a city situated next to one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world.

Then Catch 35 opened. (They also have a location in Naperville.)

Catch 35 is located at 35 West Wacker Dr., facing the Chicago River in the ground floor of the Leo Burnett building. As you enter, there is a spacious piano bar to the left, and the main part of the restaurant to the right. Reservations are highly recommended; I always suggest using OpenTable.com if you plan far enough in advance. The restaurant is spacious and airy, decorated in natural wood tones and ocean shades of blue and green. The front of the restaurant sports modern commercial art, while farther back, large murals of seafood cover the west walls. As you walk back into the restaurant, you pass the open kitchen and can see the fresh fish on display in a refrigerated case.

Catch 35's menu changes daily depending on what they have available, but their menu usually features lobster (both American and Australian), grouper, oysters, Chilean sea bass, crab, red snapper, scallops, and more.

I like to start meals here with their crab bisque ($3/cup). They have a nice selection of salads, but the seared scallops with Szechwan glaze ($11) are a great starter - they come with an dumpling-style patty filled with fresh chives, which is quite good.

Catch 35's menu is Asian-influenced. They have fish available grilled, baked, pan-seared, and the house specialty, wok style. (If seafood isn't your bag, they also have some good steaks). One of their "out of the ordinary" items that is quite good is the Maine lobster with wild mushroom ravioli in a cream sauce ($23).

While their wait staff is quite good, I have been particularly pleased with John, an older gentleman. After having waitressed for several years, I appreciate a server who is honest with me about the quality of items on the menu and who can suggest items beyond the menu if you don't see exactly what you're looking for.

Catch 35 offers takeout breakfast on weekdays. They are open for lunch weekdays and for dinner all week.