The North Wales Borderlands

Overview

Lone Sheep Photo - Wales, United Kingdom

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North Wales provides engaging geographical contrasts, from rolling hills and pastoral countryside, sandy beaches and beautiful mountain scenery. The land itself is possibly the most noteworthy highlight of any trip to the North Wales Borderlands, but there are plenty of activities to engage in as well. For those with a mind toward history, there are several notable castles that are well worth exploring. This region figured prominently in the wars of Edward I to subdue Wales and bring the principality under English control. Aside from the more obvious castle sights, there are many examples of medieval architecture and homes to be found in numerous towns and villages strewn about the countryside...Read More

North Wales provides engaging geographical contrasts, from rolling hills and pastoral countryside, sandy beaches and beautiful mountain scenery. The land itself is possibly the most noteworthy highlight of any trip to the North Wales Borderlands, but there are plenty of activities to engage in as well.

For those with a mind toward history, there are several notable castles that are well worth exploring. This region figured prominently in the wars of Edward I to subdue Wales and bring the principality under English control. Aside from the more obvious castle sights, there are many examples of medieval architecture and homes to be found in numerous towns and villages strewn about the countryside.

Llangollen, in the southwest part of this region, is a very popular day trip destination. With its canal cruises and steam locomotive trips, it ranks as one of the more unique places to visit in the Borderlands. Its scenic mountain setting also makes it one of the more beautiful areas to be seen in North Wales.

Much of the charm of the North Wales Borderlands lies in the numerous little villages that may not appear on maps. It's well worth the effort of taking a leisurely approach to touring this area, allowing time to stop and investigate the little spots you will happen across that you might not otherwise be aware of. Some of my favorite moments in Wales happened in places that I'd never heard of, nor had any plans to visit.

Many visitors choose North Wales as a destination for outdoor activities. Hiking is quite popular in this region and other activities from canoeing to hang gliding can be enjoyed. Like most of Wales, the Borderlands of the north are an outdoorsman's delight.

Quick Tips:

North Wales provides engaging geographical contrasts, from rolling hills and pastoral countryside, sandy beaches and beautiful mountain scenery. The land itself is possibly the most noteworthy highlight of any trip to the North Wales Borderlands, but there are plenty of activities to engage in as well.

For those with a mind toward history, there are several notable castles that are well worth exploring. This region figured prominently in the wars of Edward I to subdue Wales and bring the principality under English control. Aside from the more obvious castle sights, there are many examples of medieval architecture and homes to be found in numerous towns and villages strewn about the countryside.

Llangollen, in the southwest part of this region, is a very popular day trip destination. With its canal cruises and steam locomotive trips, it ranks as one of the more unique places to visit in the Borderlands. Its scenic mountain setting also makes it one of the more beautiful areas to be seen in North Wales.

Much of the charm of the North Wales Borderlands lies in the numerous little villages that may not appear on maps. It's well worth the effort of taking a leisurely approach to touring this area, allowing time to stop and investigate the little spots you will happen across that you might not otherwise be aware of. Some of my favorite moments in Wales happened in places that I'd never heard of, nor had any plans to visit.

Many visitors choose North Wales as a destination for outdoor activities. Hiking is quite popular in this region and other activities from canoeing to hang gliding can be enjoyed. Like most of Wales, the Borderlands of the north are an outdoorsman's delight.

Best Way To Get Around:

I strongly recommend arranging for a private vehicle to explore North Wales. The ambience of the Welsh countryside is one of the greatest appeals, in my opinion, and without your own car you will miss out on much of this.

That said, it's not always feasible to rent a car and some people are nervous about driving on the left hand side of the road. Luckily, the North Wales Borderlands is well served by public transportation. If you've crossed the Irish Sea from Dublin, you can take the rail from Holyhead to most of the main towns in the north. Coming from Chester, England, the railway to Llangollen, to the south, and west to Conwy. In both cases, there are stops at many points in between.

Bus service is quite extensive. Though a slower way to get around, there are few places you can't reach by bus in North Wales. Whether arriving by car, train or bus, you'll find yourself doing a good deal of walking. Most towns and villages are best seen on foot and are compact enough to not normally be a strain to do so. Read Less

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Green Hill Farm

Hotel

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Green Hill Farm is not the run of the mill bed and breakfast. In fact, it is what the name implies. Green Hill Farm is a working farm, doubling as guesthouse. For something a bit more memorable in the line of accommodations, this 16th century stone and timber farmhouse is ideally located for exploring the North Wales Borderlands. Green Hill farm occupies over 100 acres of land in the village of Bryn Celyn, just outside Holywell. This beautiful piece of Welsh countryside overlooks the Dee Estuary, adding yet another element to the aesthetic treat offered by venturing off the beaten path. You are welcome to explore the property on your own. There are suitable footpaths for hiking. If you don’t ...Read More

Green Hill Farm is not the run of the mill bed and breakfast. In fact, it is what the name implies. Green Hill Farm is a working farm, doubling as guesthouse. For something a bit more memorable in the line of accommodations, this 16th century stone and timber farmhouse is ideally located for exploring the North Wales Borderlands.

Green Hill farm occupies over 100 acres of land in the village of Bryn Celyn, just outside Holywell. This beautiful piece of Welsh countryside overlooks the Dee Estuary, adding yet another element to the aesthetic treat offered by venturing off the beaten path. You are welcome to explore the property on your own. There are suitable footpaths for hiking. If you don’t feel like venturing far, you may enjoy watching a bit of the operation of this dairy farm. The cows are milked daily if you care to watch, or you may see the little Welsh Corgis herding the cattle about.

Mary and John Jones, the proprietors of Green Hill Farm, take noticeable pride in providing a warm welcome and superb service. They’re happy to give you maps and information on the local hiking routes and will even pack you a sack lunch to take on the trail. The Jones’ seemed quite capable of answering most questions about the activities and sights in the surrounding area. At Green Hill Farm, you are only a 15-minute walk from Holywell and only about half an hour’s drive from Chester, England. Really, you are not too far removed from any of the major sights of the Borderlands, despite the atmosphere of peaceful seclusion.

There are only four guestrooms at Green Hill Farm, so it is wise to book in advance. The rooms are comfortable and cozy, each with a TV and the trappings for making coffee and tea. Though the rooms do have washbasins in them, there are two bathrooms shared among the guests. All guest bedrooms and bathrooms are upstairs, so if you have trouble getting around, you need to keep that in mind. In fact, this is a good time to reiterate that this is a 16th Century farmhouse. While it is has been modernized over the past few centuries, it is what it is. So, it is most likely not suitable for those with disabilities or those who may not be particularly mobile.

Meals are served for guests at Green Hill Farm, including a buffet lunch. You may be treated to some typically Welsh cuisine, but you are even more likely to be treated to fresh farm raised produce. This is just another perk you get by choosing to stay outside the typical in town, chain hotels.

For a real taste of Welsh country living, Green Hill Farm is a delightful place to spend one night or a week. Double occupancy is about 35 pounds a night or 242 pounds for a full week. At these prices, it’s also a good choice for the budget minded. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 18, 2004

Green Hill Farm
Bryn Celyn, Holywell, Flintshire, CH8 7QF
Wales, United Kingdom
(01352) 713270

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The Cherry Pie Inn

Restaurant

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The Cherry Pie Inn is the oddly named, but rather cool little eatery I came across during my Borderlands excursion. Despite its name, this restaurant is no longer an inn, though it was at one time. You too can find the Cherry Pie Inn along the A541, between Mold and Denbigh, in the tiny village of Melin-y-Wern. Just don’t ask me how to pronounce that! The offerings at The Cherry Pie were a bit surprising, based on whatever false assumptions I made from the exterior. The menu leans a bit more toward the posh than the traditional British yeoman’s meal. The prices reflect this somewhat, as well, though the rates are not ridiculous. You can order a la carte, or a set price meal for around 17 pound...Read More

The Cherry Pie Inn is the oddly named, but rather cool little eatery I came across during my Borderlands excursion. Despite its name, this restaurant is no longer an inn, though it was at one time. You too can find the Cherry Pie Inn along the A541, between Mold and Denbigh, in the tiny village of Melin-y-Wern. Just don’t ask me how to pronounce that! The offerings at The Cherry Pie were a bit surprising, based on whatever false assumptions I made from the exterior. The menu leans a bit more toward the posh than the traditional British yeoman’s meal. The prices reflect this somewhat, as well, though the rates are not ridiculous.

You can order a la carte, or a set price meal for around 17 pounds. The set price meal does give a choice of entrée and I’ll vouch for the locally harvested grilled trout. Nothing on the plate was sub-par, but I recall best that the fish and soup were delicious. The Cherry Pie seems equally, or more so, known for their wine bar. The wine selection was favorable and, again, I found myself surprised by this. I just wasn’t expecting it from this little inn practically in the middle of nowhere.

It was unseasonably warm during my time in Wales, so I was able to enjoy one of the best parts of The Cherry Pie. The River Wheeler runs alongside the restaurant, adding a pleasant and picturesque view to their patio seating area. A couple of glasses of fine wine and the outdoor atmosphere may very well make you wish you could stay longer. Especially on a full stomach, it can be hard to break away from such a relaxing setting.

The Cherry Pie is by no means a typical Welsh establishment, other than the familiar British inn style of the building. While perhaps it doesn’t qualify as fine dining, it is certainly a step above the average meal on the go. Throw in the suitably impressive wine selection and this converted guesthouse manages to fill a niche of its own. It’s a niche that I was pleased to stumble across. If you’re ever in that neck of the woods, drop in and see for yourself. If the weather’s nice, by all means sit on the patio.

After you pull yourself away from The Cherry Pie, be sure to have a walk around the surrounding village. There is an early 19th Century water mill that is the centerpiece of Melin-y-Wern. Originally, the building that is houses The Cherry Pie, was actually the miller’s home. The mill is no longer functioning, but it does contain a gallery that exhibits the works of a local artist. Part of the old mill’s complex of buildings has been converted into a hotel. Small as it might be, it’s a pretty little village that is ideal for stopping to have a meal and stretch the legs a bit while touring about. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on June 18, 2004

The Cherry Pie Inn
Denbigh Road
Wales, United Kingdom
(01352) 741-279

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The Town of Denbigh

Story/Tip

Walls of Denbigh Photo - Wales, United Kingdom

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The village of Denbigh has been around since at least the 11th century and served as home to Welsh princes for 200 years. In the 13th century, Denbigh fell to the English. In medieval times, the town of Denbigh grew in conjunction with the Castle and the town was contained within a separate system of walls. The ruins of the castle are the biggest draw for modern tourists. The remains of the town walls are also accessible by visitors. Though my visit focused more on the castle, there are some notable sights about town that are worth having a look at. Some of these can be seen by driving up and down the streets, but I recommend a walking tour that allows you time to stop and properly investigate...Read More

The village of Denbigh has been around since at least the 11th century and served as home to Welsh princes for 200 years. In the 13th century, Denbigh fell to the English. In medieval times, the town of Denbigh grew in conjunction with the Castle and the town was contained within a separate system of walls. The ruins of the castle are the biggest draw for modern tourists. The remains of the town walls are also accessible by visitors.

Though my visit focused more on the castle, there are some notable sights about town that are worth having a look at. Some of these can be seen by driving up and down the streets, but I recommend a walking tour that allows you time to stop and properly investigate.

The library is a good starting point when you arrive in Denbigh. This building was built in 1572 and was originally the County Hall for Denbighshire. Aside from being the town’s library, it is the tourist information center and houses a small museum. If you intend to have a walk on the old city walls, you must check out a key, in order to do so. You can get a key from either the library or the attendant at the castle. Once you have gotten your primer of Denbigh history at the library, you can heave off on a proper exploration of the town.

From the library, you can head directly up High Street to Highgate. A left turn here will have you pointed toward the Burgess Gate, just a few yards distance ahead. At this point, you are entering the area of the walled medieval town of Denbigh. The Burgess Gate is an impressive remnant of the stronghold that was built in the 13th Century. The gate originally stood 60 feet high, but even in its current state, one can appreciate the significant defense system that it was once part of. There is also a small, but free, exhibit on Denbigh’s history there at the Burgess Gate.

Through the gate and up Tower Hill, you will come to St. Hillary’s Tower. This medieval tower is all that remains of the garrison chapel that dates back to the 14th century. The rest of the building was torn down in the 1920’s. There is not a lot left to see, but it is an interesting and somewhat unusual structure. You can take a few minutes to poke around, or simply have a good look at it while continuing on to the castle. From St. Hillary’s Tower, you can’t miss the castle.

Denbigh Castle was one of the strongest in Wales. Seven towers, thick walls and a massive gatehouse all leant to the defense of this complex. Started in 1282, construction was not completed until around 1310. This stronghold was a significant component in the chain of English fortresses that surrounded the interior of Wales.

Today the castle is mostly in ruins, but enough remains that it takes little imagination to conjure up images of what it must have once looked like. Probably the most impressive portion of the existing structure is the triple towered gatehouse. The views of the surrounding countryside from the castle grounds are wonderful. From this commanding hilltop perch, it is little wonder why it was chosen as the most defensible location. Of course, in more peaceful times, it still offers an excellent panorama of the postcard perfect Welsh farmland that surrounds Denbigh.

If you didn’t get a key for the town walls at the library, don’t forget to pick one up before leaving the castle. The attendant there can also give you directions to the iron gate that provides entry to the walls. My favorite memories of Denbigh are actually of strolling along these old walls. My traveling companion and I were the only people there at the time we visited, so we had the place to ourselves. What remains of the city walls is probably no more than a half-mile in length, but it makes for a splendid walk. The views are straight out of a fairy tale book. The Countess Tower and Goblin Tower still remain along the walls and the stretch between the two is the most interesting section that remains. Once you’ve traversed the walls, you can simply walk the short distance down Bull Lane to find yourself back in front of the library.

Aside from the highlights that I outlined in a sort of walking tour format, it is worth having a random walk around the rest of the village, or making a point to drive around a bit more before leaving town. Denbigh is full of quaint and interesting houses, many dating from the medieval period. You’ll almost certainly want to snap a few photos of the local scenery, as well as the historic sights. The town is one that almost appears that it was built for the purpose of appearing on postcards and tourist brochures. Read Less

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The Siege of Hawarden Castle

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Hawarden is a tiny speck of a village in the northeast of Wales. It doesn’t show up on all road maps, but it’s located roughly halfway, as the bird flies, between Chester and Mold. While driving around the North Wales Borderlands, my buddy and I happened through the little village one pleasant September morning. Somewhere along the way, we happened by a sign that alerted us to the fact that there was a castle somewhere around here. Being the enthusiast that I am for all things of even remote historical significance, I demanded that we stop and tour the castle. Well, as I said, Hawarden is just a wee bit of a place. A couple of shops, a pub or two and a handful of houses pretty much comprised ...Read More

Hawarden is a tiny speck of a village in the northeast of Wales. It doesn’t show up on all road maps, but it’s located roughly halfway, as the bird flies, between Chester and Mold. While driving around the North Wales Borderlands, my buddy and I happened through the little village one pleasant September morning. Somewhere along the way, we happened by a sign that alerted us to the fact that there was a castle somewhere around here. Being the enthusiast that I am for all things of even remote historical significance, I demanded that we stop and tour the castle.

Well, as I said, Hawarden is just a wee bit of a place. A couple of shops, a pub or two and a handful of houses pretty much comprised the "downtown" Hawarden district, centering around the crossroads where the A550 and B5125 intersect. There didn’t appear to be a castle hidden among these quaint little homes and shops. We found a place to park and headed toward the only likely landmark that we’d noticed. Along a fenced in pasture was a wall with a rather large wooden gateway. It was hard to see what was beyond the gate, but it seemed like the best place to begin our search.

Standing in front of the gate, we read a small sign attached to one side that specified the times the entrance would be unlocked. It didn’t say what it was the entrance to, but it was unlocked at that moment, so with a sturdy shove, we pushed our way through to the other side. Immediately, a small gaggle of chickens and ducks assaulted us, but we were not to be deterred. Fending off our attackers, we discovered that we had entered a sprawling pastureland that extended into the distance across green, rolling hills. Keeping an eye over our shoulder for any vengeful fowl, we traipsed off along a well worn path that would lead us deeper into the sparsely wooded pasture.

Going mostly on blind speculation, we ventured along the trail for what must have been a half-mile or more. It was quite pleasant and scenic, leading us through thickets of trees and past the occasional congregation of sheep. About the time we were deciding that we’d had an enjoyable hike, but weren’t likely to find a castle, we glimpsed the remains of a stone tower peeking through the trees on a nearby prominence. Ah, we’d hit pay dirt. The elusive Hawarden Castle was within our grasp.

Forging on through a growing population of sheep, we soon found ourselves standing at the gate to the castle. The gate was actually a low wooden doorway, set into a rather high stone wall that extended out in both directions. This was certainly not the original defensive wall of the fortress, but at approximately ten feet high, it did manage to obstruct our view of the castle. We intended to have a thorough exploration of whatever remained of this obscure castle, so never mind the wall, or so we thought. Once at the sturdy little entranceway, we discovered that it was locked tight with an even sturdier padlock of some antiquated design. With no sign of life to be seen (other than several curious sheep), you can imagine our disappointment. We’d put in a good deal of effort into our venture, by that point.

For a minute or two, we stood looking dumbly at each other, in that shrugging manner one uses when lost for words. I don’t recall who actually suggested it, but the answer to our unspoken "what now?" seemed all too clear to us both. We’d invested too much, psychologically, to turn back on our spur of the moment foray. Wall or no wall, we were getting into that castle. Now, I don’t advocate a life of crime by any means and, normally, I don't condone trespassing, whether at home or abroad. Sometimes, though, events take on a life of their own and you must go with the flow of things. I mean, really, when was the next time I was apt to find myself standing at the gate of Hawarden Castle? My friend, who only lives an hour and a half away in Manchester, England, reckoned he was no more likely than I to be standing in that spot again. The die was cast. We were breaching the wall.

Scouting in either direction, we found what appeared to be the lowest portion of the wall. It may have been the lowest, but we would have preferred something a little lower. It took a good five minutes of pushing, pulling and dragging each other by the arms before we were perched safely atop the wall. We managed to keep our knapsacks and ourselves intact, for the most part, though I did suffer some nasty abrasions on one arm. A small price to pay for success, I assured my friend and the few sheep that gathered below to watch our progress. Our smug sense of satisfaction was cut short when we realized that the distance to the ground on the inside of the wall was even higher than what we had just scaled. With a deep breath and some choice expletives, we jumped.

Hawarden Castle lies in ruins and there is not much that remains of it. The remnants of a tower, a couple of fairly significant wall sections and a considerable amount of rubble is all that’s left of what was most likely a minor fortress even in its heyday. That’s not to say that it wasn’t worth our considerable efforts to have a look at it. Being fairly remote, as it is, and being somewhat overgrown with brush and weeds, there was a certain sense of making a genuine archeological discovery. Not to mention, one rarely gets to investigate historical structures in such an isolated and solitary environment. Indeed, as we poked and climbed around the castle ruins, there was a real aura of adventure and we may as well have been miles from civilization.

That feeling lasted several minutes; right up until we looked down the hill to see a sprawling mansion nestled in an exquisite English garden, surrounded by a perfectly manicured lawn. A second glance informed us that there was a set of stone steps leading from the castle right down to the grounds of this grand home. Putting two and two together, we decided that we probably shouldn’t be standing there in the open gawking down at that house. Though it was few hundred yards away, we would be clearly visible to anyone who bothered to look our direction. Considering how we’d gotten into the castle, we preferred not to have to explain ourselves. After all, we were smart enough to assume that both the fields and the castle were on property that belonged to that estate.

After ascertaining that we’d gone undetected, we finished snooping around the castle, though we tried to skulk around out of sight of the mansion. Once we were ready to head back to the car, our luck took a turn for the better. From the inside of the wall, there was a place that required very little climbing to get back to the other side. With a nod to the flock that had patiently awaited our return, we hoisted our bags and set off down the trail toward Hawarden Village. Another successful campaign under our belts, we could now set about the days scheduled activities.

Some days after our siege of Hawarden Castle, I did some Internet sleuthing to ascertain just where we’d been. The castle does, indeed, belong to the sprawling estate that we’d discovered. At times, the castle is open to the public. The estate we'd spied is the home of former British Prime Minister W. E. Gladstone and is not open to the public, so it’s probably best we weren’t caught infiltrating the property. The castle itself was an English built fortification from the 13th century and played a role in the wars between the English and Welsh, changing hands a number of times during that era. The castle again saw action during the Civil War of the mid-1600’s.

Though not one of the better known or most physically impressive castles in Wales, it did have a long and colorful history before being abandoned. Centuries later, it even managed to provide me with my own adventure and story. I doubt I’ll ever forget the day that we laid siege to the Hawarden Castle. Read Less

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Wales Journals

The North Wales Borderlands