Must-See Brussels

Brussels doesn't have the history of Rome, the bohemian air of Amsterdam or the livelihood of Madrid. And to top it all, it rains half the year. But her charm operates in a different manner. It's a city that needs a little work to be appreciated, although the first impression is good (with the gorgeous Grand-Place). And although Brussels is having a makeover that started at the end of the nineties, it still keeps its provincial charm.

Torn between the small city vibe and the centre of European power it is becoming, Brussels is a city in constant work . To get the most of it, go to the bars, explore the Marolles where the real "Bruselleirs" still live. And when you'll be back home, or off somewhere else on another journey, you'll be surprised to say to yourself: "I could use some Brussels time right now".

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The rooms are pretty standard and not much to look at, but they have a nice breakfast area (breakfast included) and a lobby bar. It's a good value, especially if you come during the weekend.

If you don’t plan to stay, you can have a nice drink at the Café Metropole. It has a special place in my heart because it was the first café I went to when I first arrived in Brussels. It is as beautiful as the rest of the hotel.

The rooms have different themes according to the floor: Oriental, Art Deco, and Maritime and the Royal Club are the deluxe rooms. Nothing remarkable about them really, though. The theme is accented by some details (like a big rattan chair for the Asian room). The SAS’s best featured is its Sea Grill (excellent for those who love seafood, it's Michelin rated) and the 14th century encompassed wall that was preserved when the hotel was build. Another feature of the hotel is the Bar Dessiné. A small bar located just at the entrance of the lobby where some of Belgium's most famous comic-strips artist have drawn souvenirs on the walls. Nice place for a fancy drink before, or after a meal at the sea Grill.

When we got to the place, the tone was already set - a beautiful turn-of-the-century maison de maitre. We were escorted by a lady dressed in strict and sleek black outfit with a telephonist's earpiece. I got the point. it was a concept. When we got in, I was submerged by the outpouring of dark red velvet and purple accents. I didn't know what to think. I used to like extravaganza when I was 8, but for old time's sake, I decided that it was quite beautiful in its own way. The waitresses where all dressed in a tight black sweater and miniskirt - and the headpiece again! I still think it’s off-putting.
But I hadn't seen the little intimate room facing the street, a very rococo area! A sky-painted ceiling, heavy draperies everywhere, candle light . . . romantic indeed. The food? It's fusion. I only had a cocktail, but took a look at the menu: you can find Belgian-French fare mixed with Asian and Middle Eastern dishes or ingredients. It sounded yummy, but the price wasn't.
Verdict: For those who like this kind of place, you'll love it. I must admit that I kind of liked the separate room. Would I go back if it was up to me? Not sure . . .

Remember that Belgian cheese advertisement whose motto was: "A little bit of everything" ? Well... that can be be said of the Food Factory, who took the place of the now defunct Chrisitan (RIP, I had some good memories of it). And it wears its name well! Brasserie cuisine? They've got it. Belgian classics such as mussels and waterzooi and carbonnades flamandes? No problem. Good old spaghetti and pizzas? Here it comes. You can even find the boring sandwich, burger, or pita, or, more exotic, Asian "wok" cuisine and tea-time specials.

It certainly won't get a Michelin star, but so much diversity in the menu is rarely seen and, considering the location (just on Boulevard Anspach, near the Bourse), the prices are quite reasonable. They kept the dark woods from the old Christian, renovated a little, added some men waiters (they should have kept the women). A good address if you don't want to eat without emptying your pocket or for the tourist who don't have much time but want to have a choice.

Hordes of tourists shoot him from every angle and he's got a wardrobe that would put Carrie Bradshaw to shame. You can see all his outfits—from samurai and firefighter to Elvis and Tintin—at the museum inside the Maison du Roi. Don't miss it.

The original Grand’Place was destroyed by king of France Louis XIV during the war against the Spanish, but the people of Brussels were quick to rebuild in a mix of Flemish Renaissance and gothic style. The most distinguishable building is the City Hall. It is the crown jewel of the square. If you look at it, you’ll see it is not symmetric. The legend says that when the building was finished and the architect came to see it, he felt so humiliated he climbed on top of the spire and jumped. The building is filled with statues gargoyles, soldiers, ladies, monks…

You can visit the City Hall. The other remarkable building is the Maison du Roi (or King's house), on the other side of the Grand'Place, where in fact the king has nothing to do with it. It takes its name from the chimney-sculpted figures of Charles V, King of Spain who was the ruler at the time. The building hosts the museum of the City of Brussels and that's where Manneken Pis has his wardrobe. It is not the original building. Most of it has been rebuilt in the 19th century.

Another noteworthy building: Le Cygne, The Swan house, with its beautiful Swan figure, is now a restaurant. In the 19th century, it was a tavern where exiles Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels wrote their "Manifesto" .The Maison des Brasseurs (Brewers House) where the Brewey Museum is (you can visit and the price of a degustation is included). At the number 16, the" Windwill", French writer Victor Hugo lived for a month, when he was not making his researches in Waterloo for "Les Misérables". "Le Roy d'Espagne", King of Spain, has a great medieval-looking cafe-restaurant. And on the right side of the Square, there is the huge "Maison des Ducs de Brabant", house of Brabant Dukes.

The church of Saint-Jacques-sur-Coudenberg is the church where, traditionally, the royal toddlers are baptized. It's also the official church of the Belgian armed forces. Its style is classical, made to look like a Greek temple. When the French revolution poured over Belgium, it became a temple of Reason for a while before being restored as a church. On the right side of the square, you’ll find the Royal Museums of Fine Arts. They are divided into two sections, Ancient and Modern, but share the same facility. I’ll write more about that in another chapter.

Just off the Place Royale, you’ll find the Palais des Beaux Arts where concerts are regularly scheduled. And you can also visit the ruins of the "Palace of Charles V". It was in ruins when razed to build the Place Royale in the 18th century (some form of early "Bruxellisation") but since 1995, historians have been digging and rehabilitated this heritage. You can access the ruins via the Musee Bellevue, which is a museum dedicated to the Belgian Monarchy (http://www.musbellevue.be/enpalace.htm).

On one side, you can see the Royal Palace, ans further away, looming up high, the mammoth-sized Palais de Justice. On the other side, the Palace of the Nation (parliament) and the whole ministry neighbourhood of the Rue de Loi. So you can see the three branches of government from the same area. During the month of May and June, you’ll also see a lot of students who like to study while tanning. It’s also an "unofficial" pick-up place for gays when the sun sets. And er, generally, it’s a nice place to relax.

For those who are interested, you can visit the Parliament: http://www.europarl.eu.int/abc/visit/visit_en.htm

The other big attraction of the rue Neuve is the City 2 mall. The first mall I had ever seen when my parents took me there when I was a teen. Four floors of shopping galore where you can find anything! Books, sporting goods, clothes, beauty products, crafts, shoes, toys, home decoration... There are 103 stores in there. City 2 also has a grocery store (GB) and the famous FNAC, the main Brussels branch of the French company selling CD's, movies, books, computer games, etc. You'll also find lots of snack bars (which might be helpful after a hard day of shopping). They are mainly located on the -1 floor.

In the rue Neuve, clothes shopping is quite big. There's nothing particularly "Belgian" to buy here (there's a waffle stand almost at the middle of the street). Although the first time I was there, I bought the official football jersey of the national football team!

In fact, there 2 main museums: Ancient Arts and Modern Arts. You enter the museum via a beautiful common room exhibiting giant paintings from the 19th century.

The Ancient Arts covers the 15th to 18th century with such highlights as Primitive Flemish like Rogier Van Der Weyden and Hieronymus Bosch (he has his own room).

One of my favourite of those ancient painters is Bruegel the Elder (I saw "Icarus's Fall" so many times in books... ) and its depiction of everyday life in the early Renaissance in the Low Countries. You can feel he really took pleasure in the little joys of the peasants' life at the time. His popular paintings are like little time capsule and show the simple life and pleasure of simple people.

If there is a Flemish painter I particularly like, it's Pieter-Paul Rubens. He also has his own room. I particularly love the sensuality of his paintings, the colours, the texture... His plump and rosy-cheeked female figures are very characteristic (yeah, they had other beauty criteria at the time). It's the baroque era folks!

One painting that struck me the most though was Jacques-Louis David's "Marat Assassiné". This is a painting that everybody has seen in his/her history schoolbook when it's time to talk about the French Revolution. Marat was a Revolution leader and was murdered while taking a bath by Charlotte Corday, who held him accountable for the Terror regime. After the fall of Napoleon, David lived (and died) in exile in Brussels and that's the reason why this painting is in Brussels and not at the Louvres. The simplicity and realism of this work is touching. Marat is in his bathtub, one of his arm just laying out of the tub with a quill in his hand (he was a writer for the paper called "L'ami du peuple") and looks peaceful, as if asleep. David was a personal friend of Marat so that explains it all. The painting is exposed on its own on an isolated wall leading the 19th-century paintings and marks the transition between the Ancient and Modern Art museums.

Amongst the highlights: James Ensor and his witty and ironic paintings with the recurring figures of the skeletons and masks, Fernand Khnopff's "L'Art", the luminous paintings of Rik Wouters, the moving and monumental subjects of Constant Permeke, the playful sculpture of Pol Bury, the poetry of Paul Delvaux known for his oniric subjects mixing naked women and tramways (he has own room and apart from "La voix publique", my favourite is the "Crucifixion," a biblical scene with a twist as all subjects are skeletons!)...
But the main reason for a lot of art lovers to come to Brussels' Modern Arts Museum is the Magritte room. The museum has the largest collection of Magritte paintings, a master of the surrealism movement. Amongst them, my personal favourite: "L'empire des lumieres" which is a perfect representation of what Magritte was all about: taking everyday objects and mixing them or putting them into an environment where this object is out of place or disturbing (in this case, the sky is painted as it would be during the day, and the house and trees are in the dark).

The COBRA (Copenhaguen, Brussels, Amsterdam) is well represented too with leading artists Pierre Alechensky and Asger Jorn).

Of course, you'll find "the big names" such as Monet, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Picasso, Dali, Matisse, Chagall, even Andy Warhol and Keith Haring, who spent a great deal of time in Knokke, a seaside resort town on the Belgian coast. By the time you'll get to the "installation room" (at the end of the museum itinerary), you will be exhausted.

The sculptures are not forgotten either as the museum has a sculpture garden. One of my favourite (inside the museum) is a statue by Joseph Geefz called "Le genie du Mal" ("the genie of Evil") that was originally ordered for a cathedral but was removed quickly not being Christian enough. Indeed, this incarnation of evil is represented as a beautiful youth, a fallen angel, that brings more feelings of fascination than repulsion.

The museum is open from 10 AM to 5 PM. A regular ticket is 5 euros but every first Wednesday afternoon of the month, it's free! They also have a gift shop and a cafeteria (which will be useful because you'll need a break!)

You can visit the museum virtually by going to http://www.fine-arts-museum.be for an overview and http://www.opac-fabritius.be/fr/F_database.htm for the (almost) whole catalogue.

Coffee lovers, you won't need to pay a lot to have a decent cup of coffee with the Grand'Place as a background. The interior is sleek and cozy with its buttercream walls, maroon seats and metal fixtures. Tables by the windows are often busy but it's the small terrace that's the best once the weather is warm enough... Look at people passing by and admire the Grand'Place during the long Belgian summer twilight or early in the morning, when the sun is not beating down. It's priceless. And of course, your coffee will be served with a cookie or a chocolate!
Recommendation: The cheap but good medium roast, Papua-New Guinean and Colombian coffee, the hot chocolate...

The Cafeteria is open from Monday to Friday from 9 AM to 4:15 PM.

For those who are wondering, Le Sud is now up-to-code. You will be greeted by a bouncer and yes, he may not be the nicest, but don't be impressed. The entrance will be probably be around 2.50- 3 Euros and if it is still the case, you'll get a card that will give you free access for a year! The peanuts, vodka and Middle-Eastern influenced interior is still there but now, Le Sud has three rooms. The main one plays current hits, the smallest one is more techno-oriented, the basement is for "oldies" (read: '80s and ‘70s).

The crowd: long gone is the era of those "in-the-known". Now, you'll be more likely to bump into young European Union trainees, local students and maybe an old faithful or two (most of them are too old anyway).

The mood: Not snobby or stuffy and with the help of Le Sud's vodka, it gets even friendlier. You're likely to have a great time.

People, if you're looking for cutting edge techno, this is not your place! First of all, Chez Johnny doesn't call itself a "nightclub" but a "party room" and no need to wait after midnight (like in most nightclubs) to have fun. Chez Johnny starts early and ends late. That's to give you a hint. Between actual hits, kitsch French songs everyone sings along with, '70s disco and '80s nostalgia, Johnny lets you know he's got a serious sense of humour. And to top it all, they've got DJ battles, karaoke and... ladies, you'll like it, what in French is called a "Quart d'heure americain" (literally, "American quarter of an hour"). And what is it? Well... first of all, playing love songs is soooooo out-of-fashion. Johnny never minds, but girls, during this quarter, you'll be the one inviting the guys. That's right! You can grab a cutie and slow-dance with him (finally, there is justice).

And if you're willing to shake what your mama gave 'ya on the bar (they have a competition!!!), you may end up with some free champagne (I know, I tried... lost to a 1,70 meter razor-thin blonde... there was no competition!)

Chez Johnny also offers free dance classes too (see website for details).

It's a friendly, no-fuss, anything-goes place best enjoyed with a group of friends who'll appreciate the "so kitsch it's hip" attitude.

Entrance is 6 Euros, free for the ladies before midnight. http://chezjohnny.be/

Well... you've got it now... you can find a lot of stuff, sometimes for cheap (but being so close to the Grand'Place... it's more on the expensive side). Browse the stores and stands - you'll probably find some funny stuff and maybe buy something.

Entering Le Ciro is like entering a time capsule, and as soon as you push the door, the hustle and bustle of Brussels' traffic fades away. The dark woods and quiet will invite you to relax and please. Order the half-en-half (a mix of white wine and bubbly).

With the "mushrooming" of trendy (and ephemeral) bars all around town, Le Cirio is a classic and a fixture, great to go back to when fed up with all the glitz of those new cafés.

Another piece of advice: bring your sweetie with you; it will make you look so grown-up and responsible.

Their specialty is books and magazines. It’s by far what takes up the most room (some second-hand CD stores, incidentally on the same street and around the same area, have a better selection). The place is HUGE, and I would spend 1 or 2 hours regularly looking for a book or a CD to find. It’s not only because I loved hanging out there but also because... well... to find a particular book, you have to spend quite a bit of time looking for it. Of course, books are sorted by authors’ names, but just by the first letter, so you might find Hawthorne just next to Hugo.

Some rarities can be found (and you can find some original-print comic-strip hound lurking around), but again, you'll have to spend some time there.

Second-hand CDs are a particularly good deal, as CDs are outrageously expensive in Brussels.

It was also a safety net for the cash-starved student that I was during those hard end-of-the-month times when I needed to hold on for a couple of days. Five dollars was easily won, enough to eat pasta and bread for 3 days! Those books, magazine, or CDs I didn't need anymore would be sold.

If you have the time and the energy (yes, the energy - looking for so long can be tiring), get lost in Pêle-Mêle; you won't go back empty-handed.

Check out what the store looks like at http://www.pele-mele.be/

Go to the Oceade. The Oceade is a tropical paradise located in Bruparck (a big amusement park area with Mini-Europe, Kinepolis...) in the Heysel area. One of the biggest aquatic parks in the country, this domed swimming area has it all: wave pool, whirlpools, kiddie pools, outdoor pool, 10 slides (my favourite being the kamikaze (80 meters slide in 18 seconds... whew)), a solarium, and a Finnish sauna. If you are travelling with kids, they will love it.

For those who are over 18 years old, there is a sauna (included in the price for adults).You'll find a Jacuzzi, two saunas at 80°C, one outside sauna at 90°C, a hammam, a cold tub and tanning beds. The first time I was there, you had to go in the buff... yes, naked.

I didn't expect it (my first time in a sauna, too), but hey, it was fun. My friend and I were embarrassed of being embarrassed.

On Sundays, swimsuits were allowed. That was a few years ago, and their website mentions that now you have to wear a swimsuit everyday.

And if you are hungry, there are also several restaurants and snacks on the premises.

Enjoy!

Oceade can be reached with the Metro Line 1a, direction Roi Baudouin/Koning Baudewijn. Stop at Heysel/Heyzel.

For more information, such has opening hours: http://www.oceade.be

You can't be fresher than that!!! I just tried it 20 minutes ago. PP stands for Pathé Palace, an old movie theatre that's kind of a legend, but also, let's face it, one of the shameful examples of indifference toward art and culture. It used to be one of the most beautiful theaters in town. It closed and fell into disrepair until the mid-90's, when the people from Antwerp's Kladaradatsch! opened it again. The place needed a nice after-show bar, and the inevitable Fred Nicolay (who just got started on the bar-lounge building) opened the PP Café. It was quite popular until the movie theatre went under once again! It became the temporary theater for Le Theatre National de la Communaute francaise and is now empty again (projects to transform it into an art and essay theatre emphasizing Belgian cinema is heard these days).

Now, the PP is still there and still has the nice terrace some cheap tapas (starting at 1,90), delicious sandwiches and salads(starting at 2.20; I tried the Serrano ham, sauteed peppers, and roquette salad--it was GREAT!), and scrumptious desserts (the dessert of the day was a chocolate pie--mmmmmmmmmm). The decor is classic Nicolay, and of course, musical happenings are the norm. It's less crowded that the other St-Gery bar, which is a big advantage.

Outside of the center, the borough of Saint-Gilles is a thriving little gem of urban experience. While Ixelles host a whole bunch "bo-bo's" (Bourgeois-Bohemians), Saint-Gilles is the real haven for the true artistic crowd: painters, play directors, novelists and striving actors, have found their place in a commune with a true mix of nationalities and social background. And where do these people meet? At the Brasserie de l'Union, of course! L'Union Saint-Gilloise is THE footclub people support here. Long are gone the glory days of the squad but the bar remained true to its team and you'd better not make fun of it here.

This is a place with a true "atmosphere", wooden chairs and tables, big old wooden bar, a crowd that reflects the diversity of Saint-Gilles. Everybody is welcome and come as you are: local supporters, musicians, young immigrants, little old ladies… This is a bar that just oozes human warmth. Bonus : You can also grab something to eat and on occasions, listen to live music and when the sunny days are coming, the terrace is one of the best in Saint-Gilles.

Out of way but really worth the 10 minute tram ride from the center : Take a tram from De Brouckere or La Bourse stop and stop at Parvis de Saint-Gilles.

To you, traveler who will necessarily have to come across Boulevard Anspach and La Bourse during your visit, you will probably be lured by the big O'Reilly pub just in front of the Bourse. Don't pay attention to it and carry on a little further on the right and you will reach El Metteko… a strange mix between, indeed, since it wears a Spanish name but proclaims itself a "stadcaffe", in typical Brussels fashion. And indeed, the wooden chair and tables, beautiful stained glass and parquet seems to indicate that it is a "traditional cafe" BUT… look at the bar team, listen to the music and look at this warm light that's bathing the place… this is obviously not Grandma's bar. Music from South America and the Caribbean is putting a festive mood.

During the day, it's pretty quiet and the wide assortment of newspapers helps spend a good deal of time sipping a coffee (it helps the service is on the slow side). At night, it's cocktail time! El Metteko prizes itself for their Cuban cocktails (happy hour after 11pm, I confirm their mojito is REALLY good) and during the weekend, it can get pretty wild although I never witnessed it. I have to trust friends and their website. The crowd? A real mix : people working in the area, expats, students. A nice alternative to the St-Gery scene.

The train starts running from at around 5:30 am until past midnight. From Brussels, the first train is at around 4:40 am until 11 pm (from Bruxelles-Midi) and it will cost you 2,50 € in second class.

Some trains go further than Brussels and might take you to Ghent (and eventually Bruges) or Mons (for instance).

If you're taking the train on the weekend, check the schedule as it might be different. For train schedule, go to http://www.b-rail.be

There is also an Express Bus Line, Line 12 starting at the Brussels Luxemburg train station, it stops at the NATO headquarter on the way to the Airport. They run (from Brussels-Luxemburg) from 7:33 am to 7:34 pm and from the airport, the buses run from 5:45 am until 11:10 pm Attention though, the buses from Brux-Lux don't run on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays BUT the one from the airport do run and stops at Schuman instead of Luxemburg. Oh... and the ticket is 3 Euros.

Needless to say... the train seems the most efficient solution.

For more information (and alternatives) about to go or leave the airport, follow my link!

Website: http://www.brusselsairport.be/to_from_airport/index.cfm?lang=en

The metro network is really easy to figure out. It's essentially two lines (one going around the boulevards that are the limits of the city of Brussels itself (the Pentagone) and one crossing the city from east to west with two branches at each extremity.

The Line 1A starts at Belgium's biggest stadium: King Baudouin and stops at : Heysel (for the Atomium, Brupark and Heysel exhibition grounds). It joins line 1B at Beekant and among useful stops: Ste-Catherine, de Brouckere (for rue Neuve, Place de Brouckere and Grand'Place), Gare Centrale (Central station), Parc (for the Royal Park), Arts/Lois for the ministeries and embassies, Schuman for the European District. It splits again from 1B at Merode.

The Line 1B starts at Erasme hospital, one of Brussels's biggest universty hospital, it then joins 1 a to cross the city centre and splits at Merode, Alma is the stop you want for the medicine campus of the University of Louvain-La-Neuve and the St-Luc University hospital.

The end of the line is at Stockel.

Line 2 almost completely circle the city.Important stops are Rogier (for rue Neuve and hotels around Place Rogier), you can catch the tram there), Botanique (for the Botanique Garden), Arts/Loi (where Line 1a/b crosses Line 2), Porte de Namur (to access Matonge, the African neighborhood and chaussee d'Ixelles shopping), Louise (for luxury shopping on avenue Louise and hotels), Porte de Hal (for those nightflies who wants to go to the Fuse or eat at Le Bazaar or the early birds who feel like walking to Place du Jeu-de-balles for the flea market) and Gare du Midi (Midi Station), where you an catch Thalys and Eurostar trains.

The tram

Crossing the middle of the city is the underground portion of the tram line (also called "pré-métro"), very useful and busy. The important stops: Gare du Nord (North Station), Rogier (for rue Neuve), de Brouckere (where you can catch the metro), Bourse (for the stock exchange and Grand'Place) and Gare du Midi (Midi station).

But the above ground tram is really a great way to explore the city as it has its own space on the road and little affected by traffic. Amongst the interesting lines: Line 92 starting North at the Schaerbeek Train station, crossing the Upper-Town (stops at the Museums of Fine Arts, Royal Square, Petit Sablon, Palace of Justice, Avenue Louise (you can catch the Line 2 metro), Place Stephanie and crossing St-Gilles before reaching the affluent borough of Uccle and the end of the line at Fort-Jaco, close to the Foret de Soignes (Soignes Forest) where many Bruxellois spend their Sundays.

Line 93 has the same itinerary as Line 92 except it splits at Place Stephanie to go towards the Universite Libre de Bruxelles (ULB), Brussels's biggest university.

Line 81 is a nice alternative to go to the Heysel if you don't want to spend your time underground. It is longer but will take you to different neighbourhoods. You can catch it in the underground tram lines stops.

The Line 44 is also important: it is located in the other underground portion of the tram system and you can catch it inside the Montgomery station (Line 1B) and it will take you through some fancy neighbourhoods all the way to suburban Tervueren and the Museum of Central Africa.

Buses

The third transportation option is the bus.

There are a lot of lines so I'll only point out 1: the Line 71. A very famous "double-bus" line that crosses the most important area in the center of Brussels before reaching Ixelles and the University campuses.

Line 71 starts at Place de Brouckere and stops by the Galleries St-Hubert, Central station, Place Royale (for the museums of Fine Arts and the Music Instruments museums), Parc Royal and Royal Palace, and Porte de Namur (you can reach Avenue Louise with a short walk) before taking the Chaussee d'Ixelles (some good shopping to do there or you can visit Matonge, the Congolese neighborhood) as it gets deeper into Ixelles, you'll pass by l'Amour Fou (a very popular bar), La Maison de la Radio (Radio House) a recently renovated building that looks like an ocean liner and used to house the first years of the belgian National radio. It is now a cultural center where you can see concerts and the bar has become quite popular. Just after is the stop of les Etangs d'Ixelles (Ixelles Ponds), two ponds that are a little oasis (many students come here to relax, you'll also see families on Sundays and elderly ladies feeding the ducks). The tram carries on to the main University campus (or Campus Solbosch) then, to the Campus shared by the ULB and VUB (its Flemish counterpart) or Campus de La Plaine and finishing its run at Delta where you can catch the metro.

Line 71 is now famous because it is the first line in Brussels that has a night service: the N71. It only works on Friday nights though and until 3:00 am, but for a city that never had night services, it's a start.

A little useful tip... Brussels has no night public transportation services. The last Metro leaves around 1 AM and Line N71 is only one line that works only on Friday. Your only alternative is a taxi (you HAVE to have the number of a taxi company in handy to pick you up).

So, what to do if you're too broke for a costly cab? Well... here's a tip that might be helpful. At night, buses run between their garages and if you know where the bus stops and if you have a ticket, you can take it. To get a schedule, you can go to one of those garages (one of them being in Ixelles, tale the bus 71 and ask for "le depot d'Ixelles". Make sure with the driver that it stops close to where you want to go (the itinerary might be different). One night, I was at the Campus de la Plaine after a party and no one to drive me home. Some friends told me one of those buses was going to drive by soon and indeed, I lucked out! After 10-15 minutes, here comes the bus. It was going to take me close to home but not before doing a loooong circle around Brussels' boroughs. The campus is south of the city and the bus went all the way to Laeken (up north) before driving by the northern edge of inner Brussels. It took an hour, by I was home. Funny story... after 15 minutes, I really, really had to pee. Yes, too much beers will do that to you. I tried to hold it and spend half-an-hour in a torture state I can't even imagine! The little occasional bumps on the road were not making things easier... and even I stopped, where would I go. I almost had lost hope when I see a park. Shame vanished in front of necessity and I asked the driver: "Sir, could you stop 2 minutes. I really have to go... real bad and there's a park there". I must have looked miserable because instead of laughing, the driver gave me a concerned look and asked me kindly. "Do you want me to wait for you?" "That would be kind of you, yes". I ran as fast as I could, desperately looked for a bush tall enough to hide me and relieved myself. It never felt so good! I hoped on the bus again and started striking a conversation with the bus driver. Soon enough, I was left 100 meters from home.

Only at night...

Website for public transportation: http://www.stib.irisnet.be

In the 1960's, when the Metro line was being built, it was decided that, to avoid the blandness of an underground station, every stop would be made different and the project was to involve artists and architects to make every station an open and original space. And now, the Metro can be visited like a giant museum where art comes to you and where some people would take the metro just to have a look at those pieces of work. And Brussels really did do a great job getting many artists from different background to collaborate.

Because the lines and their extension where built at different times (from the '60s to late '90s), you'll find a great variety of styles.

Amongst my favourite: Paul Delvaux's fresco at the Bourse Station. When you know that trams are a recurring figure of this surrealist master, you can imagine that he was really happy to do this. Watch up: Pol Bury's sculpture is also quite worth a look.

Comic strips are big in Belgium that's why one of Belgium's most famous sons is immortalized in the Stockel station. I am talking about Herge's Tintin. Yes, the young reporter, his dog Snoway, Captain Haddock and the rest is in the metro. Sadly, Herge died before the completion of the work. He had the time to draw the plan before though.

Another big name is Francois Schuytten whose love for architecture is quite well-known. His books are often depicting a Brussels caught in the twilight zone. Familiar but at the same time creepy. Mixing the old Brussels and futuristic elements (read Brussel). His mold of an old tram that seems like appearing out of nowhere at the Porte de Hal station is a must-see.

Vic Gentils's "Aequs Nox"at the Thieffry station is quite spectacular and you won't be surprised to know it's been made in 70s. It represents a rising sun and it sure is shiny.

The Parvis de St-Gilles has the Universal Declaration of Human Rights written all over it, literally. The artist, Francoise Scheyn, has applied the same concept in cities like London, Berlin or Haifa. The station of Horta celebrates the architect who better represented Art Nouveau: Victor Horta with elements rescued from the destruction of the Maison du Peuple and Hotel Aubecq. Even the COBRA movement is represented with a painting by one of the movement leader, Pierre Alechinsky and Christian Dotremont at Anneesens. So... take the Metro and look around, beauty is all around, even underground.

Oh... you can also visit most of the stations on the STIB's website so, follow the link below.

For a virtual visit of art in the Metro: http://www.stib.irisnet.be/FR/51200F.htm. No English version available, sorry.

Words of warning: Belgians often bring chocolate as a gift for a party, a birthday... any occasions really. DON'T bring Leonidas (unless it's for the kids) as you will be regarded as being a cheapskate.
The one that started it all was Neuhaus. Mr. Neuhaus, son of a Swiss immigrant, started the whole Belgian Chocolate craze in the 19th century. His first store was, and still is, in the Galleries St-Hubert. Mrs Neuhaus deserves credits to have invented the "ballotin", that characteristical little box to keep your chocolate. Neuhaus is still top notch.
Godiva is now exporting itself quite well (see your local department store like Marshall Fields or Macy's) or your local coffee shop. The flagship store on the Grand'Place is a little chocolate heaven... yummy! Their chocolate is good but really overpriced!
Amongst the newcomers (and expensive) in the Belgian chocolate world is Pierre Marcolini. I never had the opportunity to try it but I heard it quickly became one of the most sought after brand. His chocolates with subtle mixes and unusual flavours would be best suited for real chocoholic who know what they're about to taste. He has a shop on Place du Grand Sablon, 39 and also one on Avenue Louise, 75M (amongst others).
Galler is the brand prized by the royal court. Its specialty is chocolate bars (coconut filled white chocolate, champagne filled dark chocolate...). The main store is located off Grand'Place (Rue au Beurre 44) but you can find the bars at most grocery stores. They also make "Langue de Chat", a special chocolate designed after one of Belgium's most beloved comic-strip cat :Philippe Geluck's Le Chat.
If you don't want to blow your budget, may I recommend Cote d'Or. It is owned by a Swiss company now but the quality is just as good and they have so many varieties it's hard to choose from (I personally love their Advocaat-filled dark chocolate bar). You can find them in the tourist area at the Delhaize grocery store near the Bourse or at the GB store in the City 2 mall. Don't buy them at the many little stores you see in the centre, they are overpriced. Go to a real grocery store!
There are also a lot of other brands but unfortunately, I can't comment on them as I have never tried them. Wittamer is quite renowned (shop and cafe both on the Place du Grand Sablon), Mary Chocolatier is on 73, Rue Royale (you can order her pralines online at http://www.marychoc.com/!). Seems like president Bush went out of his way to get some there when he was in Brussels.
Now... I REALLY need chocolate!
Which reminds me... my best memory tied to chocolate was a funny one. I was going back home from school and finally decided to stop at Jeff de Bruges on rue de l'Etuve (Manneken Pis' street) and got a bag of butter cream praliné-filled dark chocolate pralines. As it melted in my mouth, I stopped on my track... It was so damn good! I assume I must have had a "gustative orgasm". But to my horror, the store closed and I discovered that "Jeff" who's said to be from Bruges is in fact from France (they just didn't stop at "stealing" our best French-speaking singers, they still have to take our chocolate) and they closed all of their stores in Belgium.

First of all, Brussels is a city of Zinneke: a mutt, mixed-blood dog, and by extension now, a multi-cultural person. Brussels is so proud of being a Zinneke that it has the huge Zinneke Parade once every two years. Usually, four different processions start at the different geographic corners and join in the center of Brussels, celebrating the wealth of the melting-pot Brussels is.
Brussels is a city that where the "Zwanze" is alive! Zwanze is a joke, and by extension, describes a predilection to play tricks and have a good time. If you're that kind of person, then you are likely a "zwanzer".
If you are a young boy, don't be surprised if you're being called a "ketje" (or ket) -- that's an affectionate little word for a boy or a young man. Older men can be referred to as "peï".
Also, if you end up at the "Amigo", it could be one of Brussels's most luxurious hotels, but it is also the name of the city jail.
For French-speakers, see the link for an interesting site about "Brusselers": http://www.eurobru.com/visit16.htm and http://www.cyberbruxelles.be/.

And what is it? This "modernity frenzy" coupled with greedy real estate powerhouses led to the destruction of old buildings to make way for the buildings of the future; this started in the late '60s, when Belgium's economy was swinging.

Not even Horta's "Maison du Peuple," which was supposed to be one of his finest work, could stand the strength of that steamroller. The house was destroyed despite protests. The whole Quartier Leopold neighbourhood disappeared to make room for European institutions.

Results of the process of bruxellisation? A complete destruction of a traditional and homogeneous architecture, losing at the same time the city's memory and soul.

In fact, the phenomenon was so bad that students in architecture and urbanism from all over the world are shown Brussels as an example of what not to do. Hopefully this period is over (well... once the "Espace Nord" area, nicknamed "Manhattan," will be done). People and officials have come to realize the damage it's doing.

Well, maybe unless the European Union needs some more buildings?

Here's for the viewing a fine example of bruxellisation: The Centre Monnaie. Built in 1971, this gaudy star-shaped monstrosity is dwarfing the 19th-century Haussmanian-styled Place de Brouckère and Boulevard Anspach, cutting right through the link between the square and the boulevard, destroying the architectural unity.