Must-See Brussels

If Paris and Bruxelles were women, Paris would be the coquette, the fun-loving and somewhat wild lover that can give a lot but burn you out too. Brussels would be the unassuming, steady friend, the familiar face you long to see when things get tough.

Brussels doesn't have the history of Rome, the bohemian air of Amsterdam or the livelihood of Madrid. And to top it all, it rains half the year. But her charm operates in a different manner. It's a city that needs a little work to be appreciated, although the first impression is good (with the gorgeous Grand-Place). And although Brussels is having a makeover that started at the end of the nineties, it still keeps its provincial charm.

Torn between the small city vibe and the centre of European power it is becoming, Brussels is a city in constant work . To get the most of it, go to the bars, explore the Marolles where the real "Bruselleirs" still live. And when you'll be back home, or off somewhere else on another journey, you'll be surprised to say to yourself: "I could use some Brussels time right now".

Quick Tips:

Go to the tourism office, just behind the Grand-Place, for all you need to know about Brussels.

Best Way To Get Around:

The public transportation system, STIB is quite good, you have buses, trams and subway lines (as well as the train that conveniently links the airport of Bruxelles-National to the city).

Located not far from bustling Quartier St-Gery and Ste-Catherine, the Hotel Astrid is a fine small hotel. It bears the name of one of the most beloved figure of the Belgian monarchy, the late Queen Astrid (the mother of the current king), who tragically died in a car crash in 1935.

The rooms are pretty standard and not much to look at, but they have a nice breakfast area (breakfast included) and a lobby bar. It's a good value, especially if you come during the weekend.

Stepping into the Metropole is like going back in time to the turn of the century. The lavish lobby floor has become a classic in Brussels, with its marble floor, high ceiling adorned by marble columns, stained glass, palmetto and large and inviting leather couches. Close your eyes and you could almost believe that Sarah Bernhardt will be strolling by shortly (she really stayed here). Even the old-style metal elevator has been preserved (I used to take it just for fun). Now, if only the rooms were up to the expectation that the lobby raises. They are nice but could be better.

If you don’t plan to stay, you can have a nice drink at the Café Metropole. It has a special place in my heart because it was the first café I went to when I first arrived in Brussels. It is as beautiful as the rest of the hotel.

“Amigo” in Brussels means a jail cell, which is not surprising seeing that it is located not far from the police station, just off Grand-Place. I remember walking to school one morning during an EU summit and who do I see getting out of the hotel surrounded by an armada of bodyguards: John Major, then the UK’s Prime Minister, German chancellor Helmut Kohl and French Prime Minister Alain Juppe. That can give you an idea of the standing of this Italian-run property. A very classy property.

New hotel, conveniently located close to Place Rogier, an area that had once an unsavory reputation but is being rebuilt for the past 10 years. It has the usual array of amenities. The rooms are a bit small, but nothing is missing, and you get a complimentary breakfast. On the plus side, you are close to the Rogier subway station, where the Number 2 subway line and the tram intersects.

When the SAS-Radisson opened in the mid-Nineties, it was the hottest address in Brussels. The hotel is basically square-shaped with a central courtyard expanding upward all the way to the top and gives a very luminous atrium, filled with plants. Compared to the other more "historic" hotel, the sleek Scandinavian design is like a breath of fresh air…

The rooms have different themes according to the floor: Oriental, Art Deco, and Maritime and the Royal Club are the deluxe rooms. Nothing remarkable about them really, though. The theme is accented by some details (like a big rattan chair for the Asian room). The SAS’s best featured is its Sea Grill (excellent for those who love seafood, it's Michelin rated) and the 14th century encompassed wall that was preserved when the hotel was build. Another feature of the hotel is the Bar Dessiné. A small bar located just at the entrance of the lobby where some of Belgium's most famous comic-strips artist have drawn souvenirs on the walls. Nice place for a fancy drink before, or after a meal at the sea Grill.

It's early in the morning and your hotel does not provide breakfast? Good excuse to drop by Le Pain Quotidien, a bakery/restaurant. You will find big, communal wooden tables that will bring you memories of summer camp and everybody shares the delicious jams, jellies, butter and chocolate spread. Different varieties of breads and pastries are available and the hot chocolate is excellent! And for later in the day, they have sandwiches, salads and others as well. Apparently, the concept worked so well that you can even find it in New York!

Tapas Locas: If you like tapas (those small Spanish dishes served in terracotta plate), this is the place to go...located in the cool little neighbourhood of the Plattesteen, this dark Spanish eatery will give you the opportunity to sample a lot of different dishes for minimal prices (last time I was there, it was 3,5 euros with a minimum of three tapas to order). Of course, if you have a big appetite, it can add up, but where else would you be able to do that?

Let me tell you, I'm not the kind of girl who's on the look-out for the lastest trendy spot to open in town, but one day, a friend of mine asked me if I wanted to go with her to the grand opening of a new restaurant-bar. The lure of free drinks and novelty got me, and I said yes. Dressing up was not the easiest part - hey, it was their opening, I had to make an effort! And who knows who was going to be there?

When we got to the place, the tone was already set - a beautiful turn-of-the-century maison de maitre. We were escorted by a lady dressed in strict and sleek black outfit with a telephonist's earpiece. I got the point. it was a concept. When we got in, I was submerged by the outpouring of dark red velvet and purple accents. I didn't know what to think. I used to like extravaganza when I was 8, but for old time's sake, I decided that it was quite beautiful in its own way. The waitresses where all dressed in a tight black sweater and miniskirt - and the headpiece again! I still think it’s off-putting.
But I hadn't seen the little intimate room facing the street, a very rococo area! A sky-painted ceiling, heavy draperies everywhere, candle light . . . romantic indeed. The food? It's fusion. I only had a cocktail, but took a look at the menu: you can find Belgian-French fare mixed with Asian and Middle Eastern dishes or ingredients. It sounded yummy, but the price wasn't.
Verdict: For those who like this kind of place, you'll love it. I must admit that I kind of liked the separate room. Would I go back if it was up to me? Not sure . . .

Remember that Belgian cheese advertisement whose motto was: "A little bit of everything" ? Well... that can be be said of the Food Factory, who took the place of the now defunct Chrisitan (RIP, I had some good memories of it). And it wears its name well! Brasserie cuisine? They've got it. Belgian classics such as mussels and waterzooi and carbonnades flamandes? No problem. Good old spaghetti and pizzas? Here it comes. You can even find the boring sandwich, burger, or pita, or, more exotic, Asian "wok" cuisine and tea-time specials.

It certainly won't get a Michelin star, but so much diversity in the menu is rarely seen and, considering the location (just on Boulevard Anspach, near the Bourse), the prices are quite reasonable. They kept the dark woods from the old Christian, renovated a little, added some men waiters (they should have kept the women). A good address if you don't want to eat without emptying your pocket or for the tourist who don't have much time but want to have a choice.

I finally discovered the much-talked-about La Kasbah. I must say, the place looked really beautiful, with dozens of colourful Moroccan lamps hanging from the ceiling, candlelight, nice sofas, and old pictures of the Maghreb and the Middle East as a finishing touch.

The lower floor is a must-see and there is also the possibility to smoke the nargileh. Cherry on top: the restroom has to be seen! A real 1001 Nights Palace!

Now, everything on the menu looks delicious, and although I am a BIG fan of couscous, I went ahead and chose the chicken tajine with candied lemon—and I didn't regret it! The mix of spices and lemon really blended well with the chicken, and I must say that, for me, the best part was the lemon that was bathing in the delicious juice.

Most of my dinner mates went for the couscous Kasbah Royal (couscous with a mix of different meats), and, suffice it to say, there was not much talk while eating, so I took that as a sign that it was really tasty.

The desserts (which I didn't order) looked really appetizing, but I can't comment on how they tasted (no complains from my friends, though).

We ended our meal with a traditional mint tea served with orange blossom water, of course!

Total: 26€ per person, which is really not bad at all! What more can we ask?

If you ask anyone where the best frites in Brussels are made, chance is you will get at Maison Antoine for an answer. This fritkot is an institution since 1948. They are preparing the fries following the golden rules (see my tip about fries in Belgium), and are mentioned almost in the same breath as Michelin stars restaurants in any guides worth mentioning although...to me, they didn't seem as good as I remembered, but they are still top fries!

On cute Place Jourdan, somewhere between the Berlaymont and Parc Leopold, out of the center, it's really worth the  trip there. Maison Antoine is usually busy at all times and because it takes a little time to prepare good fries, you will have to wait a little bit. Those are not your fast-food's shoestrings!

Since Maison Antoine is a fritkot (a snack stand), you won't be able to sit there to eat these golden and deliciously crispy slices of potatoes. If the weather is nice, benches are available but, the snack has an agreement with one of the bar on Place Jourdan: L'espérance - Chez Bernard. If you buy something to drink (remember, beer is cheaper than water), you can bring in your fries cone. To me, it's a must do when going to Maison Antoine. There's nothing fancy in this bar. It's old-fashioned, cozy and the staff is really, really friendly so, it should not be missed! With a group of friends, you'll usually notice that you've easily spent more time than anticipated.

One tip worth mentioning, Maison Antoine being very close to the Museum of Natural Sciences (where the famous Iguanodons skeletons are exhibited), it's really a nice place to take the kids after a visit to the Museum (one of the kids favourite in Brussels).

What else can be said about Manneken Pis? He's the unpretentious and irreverent spirit of Brussels. Everybody wants to see him, everybody giggles ("oh, he's sooo tiny!") and he should be thanked for putting a smile on everybody's face.

Hordes of tourists shoot him from every angle and he's got a wardrobe that would put Carrie Bradshaw to shame. You can see all his outfits—from samurai and firefighter to Elvis and Tintin—at the museum inside the Maison du Roi. Don't miss it.

The Boulevard Anspach is another example of the ambition of King Leopold II to make Brussels looks like a decent 19th century city. It is the typical wide boulevard prized by Paris. Mr Anspach, who was the mayor at the time, thought it would be nice to have squares doting this avenue ... one of them is the Place de la Bourse. La Bourse, the stock exchange building, is a classical building flanked by two lions where traders are nurturing their ulcers. It is also a good meeting point, because it's smack-dab in the middle.

One of my favorite place in Brussels... the Galleries St-Hubert with their bright, elegant and airy architecture (thanks to high ceiling topped with glass) is a must-do stop for building lovers and shopaholic alike. It has the honor of bringing the first mall ever build on the continent and was finished in the middle of the 19th century. Divided in three part (Gallerie du Roi, Gallerie de la Reine and Gallerie du Prince), you will find elegant cafes, posh boutiques, a day spa, the flagship store of the famed Neuhaus chocolate company (yummy!), a theatre (Le Theatre des Galleries), a movie Theatre (Arenberg Galleries, shows art and indie movies mainly) and its best kept secret... on the adjoining Gallerie du Prince, Tropismes, one of the most beautiful store in Brussels. This bookstore is a gem and I'm sure that you won't be able to leave without buying one. But the Galleries are not only a place to shop. Look at the second floor : these are apartment windows! The goal of the Galleries since its construction was to mix commerce with people and apartment where built above the shops. It's still the case today. I really wouldn't mind an apartment with such a view!

Belgium’s Independence began with a song from “La Muette de Portici”, a mediocre opera, but it had an aria called “Sacred song of Fatherland” and it was kind of the straw that broke the camel’s back for the patriots who were in assistance. The rest is history. Belgium got its independence from the Netherlands. It was built originally “A l’italienne” by architects Paolo et Pietro Bezzi at the end of the 17th century. Most of the original building was built by order of William of Orange on a plan by French architect, Louis Damesme, and was inaugurated in 1819. Most of it got destroyed in a fire in 1855. Only the facade and the columns survived. It will be rebuilt shortly after. Today, La Monnaie is still one of the most beautiful buildings in town and one of the very best operas in Europe. The interior is stunning with a big painted dome representing a sky, Italian-style structure (lots of balconies) and lots of plush red velvet seats. The Foyer is equally stunning. And you can also visit the Opera on Saturdays.

Grand’Place (Grote Markt in Flemish): The most beautiful theatre in the world, said French cinematographer Jean Cocteau. And it’s difficult not to agree. You’re walking in the narrow streets surrounding the Grand’Place and then, bang, comes this wide open spaces framed with gorgeous, gilded building.

The original Grand’Place was destroyed by king of France Louis XIV during the war against the Spanish, but the people of Brussels were quick to rebuild in a mix of Flemish Renaissance and gothic style. The most distinguishable building is the City Hall. It is the crown jewel of the square. If you look at it, you’ll see it is not symmetric. The legend says that when the building was finished and the architect came to see it, he felt so humiliated he climbed on top of the spire and jumped. The building is filled with statues gargoyles, soldiers, ladies, monks…

You can visit the City Hall. The other remarkable building is the Maison du Roi (or King's house), on the other side of the Grand'Place, where in fact the king has nothing to do with it. It takes its name from the chimney-sculpted figures of Charles V, King of Spain who was the ruler at the time. The building hosts the museum of the City of Brussels and that's where Manneken Pis has his wardrobe. It is not the original building. Most of it has been rebuilt in the 19th century.

Another noteworthy building: Le Cygne, The Swan house, with its beautiful Swan figure, is now a restaurant. In the 19th century, it was a tavern where exiles Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels wrote their "Manifesto" .The Maison des Brasseurs (Brewers House) where the Brewey Museum is (you can visit and the price of a degustation is included). At the number 16, the" Windwill", French writer Victor Hugo lived for a month, when he was not making his researches in Waterloo for "Les Misérables". "Le Roy d'Espagne", King of Spain, has a great medieval-looking cafe-restaurant. And on the right side of the Square, there is the huge "Maison des Ducs de Brabant", house of Brabant Dukes.

The “Arts Hill” leads to the Royal Museums of Fine Arts. A formal little park makes the link between the Renaissance-Gothic setting of the Grand’Place and the classical Place Royale and Palais de Charles de Lorraine. You’ll find a lot of teenagers practicing their skateboard abilities at the feet of the statue of one of the best loved member of the Belgian monarchy: King Albert 1st. He was the grandfather of the actual king and led the Belgian army during World War I and set up the resistance army in the little corner of Flanders that the Germans were not able to take (because the army flooded the polders to stop their advance). He was to be known as the “Roi-Chevalier”, or Knight-King, and died tragically when he fell while escalading a rock in the south of Belgium. His wife, Queen Elizabeth, who was a Grande Dame and patron of the arts, has her own monument on the other site of the street, facing her husband's. On the right side is the Royal Library Albert 1st (see off the beaten path). You'll also find the graceful Museum of the Music Instrument, a jewel of Art Nouveau, on the way up to the Place Royale.

This is one of my favourite places in Brussels. Charles de Lorraine was the “viceroy” sent by Maria-Theresa (from 1744 to 1780), empress of Austria, to represent her authority in this part of her empire. He became so fond of Brussels (it apparently suited his “bon-vivant” character) that he had this palace built and the city embellished. It looks like a little Versailles with all-white, classical style (with rococo touches) building with harmonious proportions and elegant details and, nice touch, a golden winged figure is up high on the left side of the square. It is really elegant amongst all this white. You don’t see too much of that architectural period in the city. Part of the archives of the Royal Library is there. And the good news, you can now visit the Palace! It has become the museum of the 18th century. I can't tell you more about the museum as I have not been able to visit it yet.

Here is another classical square. In the middle of the square is a statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, leader of the first Crusade and king of Jerusalem. But first, turn around and admire the view over the old city centre!

The church of Saint-Jacques-sur-Coudenberg is the church where, traditionally, the royal toddlers are baptized. It's also the official church of the Belgian armed forces. Its style is classical, made to look like a Greek temple. When the French revolution poured over Belgium, it became a temple of Reason for a while before being restored as a church. On the right side of the square, you’ll find the Royal Museums of Fine Arts. They are divided into two sections, Ancient and Modern, but share the same facility. I’ll write more about that in another chapter.

Just off the Place Royale, you’ll find the Palais des Beaux Arts where concerts are regularly scheduled. And you can also visit the ruins of the "Palace of Charles V". It was in ruins when razed to build the Place Royale in the 18th century (some form of early "Bruxellisation") but since 1995, historians have been digging and rehabilitated this heritage. You can access the ruins via the Musee Bellevue, which is a museum dedicated to the Belgian Monarchy (http://www.musbellevue.be/enpalace.htm).

Well …the Royal Palace is not the best building in town, but it fulfills its role of showing majesty and authority (even if the king has in fact, no authority). The king doesn’t live there -- it’s his over-sized office. He makes the commute, like a lot of his subjects, from nearby Laeken. If the flag is floating, the king is there. During the summer, you can visit the palace.
Check out the time at www.monarchie.be/fr/visit/palace

Maybe the answer to why Belgians don’t take themselves too seriously is because their revolution started with a musical. And when the "Muette de Portici"’s aria about freedom stirred up those patriotic Belgians against the Dutch rulers, the fight took place in the Park for several days. Now, it has a more peaceful use. On Sundays, it’s filled with families, boy and girl–scouts running around between the two main fountains.

On one side, you can see the Royal Palace, ans further away, looming up high, the mammoth-sized Palais de Justice. On the other side, the Palace of the Nation (parliament) and the whole ministry neighbourhood of the Rue de Loi. So you can see the three branches of government from the same area. During the month of May and June, you’ll also see a lot of students who like to study while tanning. It’s also an "unofficial" pick-up place for gays when the sun sets. And er, generally, it’s a nice place to relax.

I was really hesitating to place it in the must-see activities as it could also fit in the tourist trap but the atmosphere in this little street is so unique that it helped tip the balance. Just of the Galleries St-Hubert, the "Butchers street", is narrow and FILLED with restaurants, each one more tempting than the last. You will be lured by waiters standing in front of their respective eateries. It's a little over-priced but it's up to you, if you can't resist. There is one institution though: Chez Leon. Specialty: Mussels, THE Belgian national dish. If you want to try them, you can stop there. In the streets surrounding the Rue des Bouchers, you'll find street vendors selling all kind of trinkets.

The "Caprice des Dieux" (Gods' Caprice") aka, the Europarliament Spaak and Spinelli Buildings has been cynically nicknamed like that because it looks like a cheese that has the same shape and because it was very expensive and big. It was built with the enlargement in mind and, if I am correct, 800 MP's can sit in it. You can see it behind the 19th century Quartier Léopold's Train Station that now looks like a dwarf, which makes the view even more impressive. The Quartier Léopold was a typical Brussels neighborhood but it has been half-destroyed to make room for Euro-institutions despite the mobilization of its inhabitants. The last to leave was on old artist who had to be escorted by the police . . .

For those who are interested, you can visit the Parliament: http://www.europarl.eu.int/abc/visit/visit_en.htm

I love Au Soleil . . . Located in an old hat shop, with its wooden old-fashioned décor, Le Soleil is really quiet in the morning and early afternoon. It’s a good place to drink coffee and read your newspaper. In the late afternoon, it gets busy and if the weather is good, the terrace will fill up. It's a lively place to have a beer or a Genievre -- the “other alcohol” of Belgium.

Le Zebra is the one that started the hype around Place St-Gery, the first gem of designer and entrepreneur Fred Nicolay. It’s cozy and warm, it has one of the best terraces in town, and its small menu is good. And yes, the terrace will up quickly. Just next to it is the Roi des Belges, paying tribute to the Belgian Monarchy, an old-fashioned looking Belgian café, but don’t be fooled, it’s another popular bar. The third of Nicolay’s, and perhaps the more extravagant, is the Mappa mundo, a cross-over between an Irish pub, Arabic bazaar and seamen tavern, the Mappa is huge, noisy, glitzy, and has a list of beer coming from all over the world! This one is located 2 - 6 Rue du Pont de la Carpe, just a little off the other two.

I put the Café Métropole in "nightlife", but it's a cafe that is better suited in the daytime. The "casual" cafe of the famed Hôtel Métropole reflects the design of the hotel with the high-ceilings, marble and turn-of-century feel. It really feels luxurious and if you sit at the terrace, you can glance at the hotel patrons going in and out. My first cafe ever in Brussels . . . the first I encounter when I finally dared going out of my "Kot" (students' room) when I moved in Brussels, so this spot has a special place in my heart.

A mandatory stop in Brussels. This brasserie named "Sudden Death" has its own beer and still keep the "Zinneke" attitude alive which is rare outside of the popular Marolles (a Zinneke is a Brusseleir word to describe a mutt and by extension, someone from Brussels). The beer is lambiek-based (gueuze, kriek, etc.). Try the Peach beer, it’s the best. The decor is really nice... old style Brussels turn-of-the-century cafe, a little nostalgic... The Cafe indeed opened in 1910 and the decor has not changed. Lots of woods, small table, high ceilings... Very atmospheric. And of course, you HAVE to order tartines (slice of bread with cheese, cottage cheese, cold cuts... whatever is available on the menu). A perfect fit for your beer!

The Lop-Lop has evolved with the years. First thing you notice about it? The number of country flags. In the early nineties, it used to be the favorite hang-out of my flatmates and me. The beer was cheap, the mood truly bohemian, you had musicians dropping by, playing on one of the two pianos if they felt like it… You could tell just by looking at the owner, a Brit with long beard and John Lennon glasses. It was cool and it was our headquarters. Then, it was decided to do a big clean-up and now, the Lop-Lop has become a hang-out for young English-speakers and is quite popular. For some reason, the list of beers is quite big (and the bar even provides information on its menu about them) and reasonably priced. A good place for expats, young tourists and locals alike.

It’s late. On my table, in this dark bar, several glasses of genievre and vodka are empty, and I am having an existential conservation with one of my friend. Where else could I be than the Kafka? It’s a clichéd scene in this bar that hosts the young Flemish intelligentsia. It is quiet and looks old and dusty, but if you want to finish the night with genievre and good conservation, this is the place.

Be really careful because you might miss it, but Le Corbeau is a neat little place. When I went back to Brussels, I had some trouble finding it again. There, you can have “chevalier” style beer (beer served in an hourglass-shaped glass), which makes drinking fun. Live bands are dropping by from time-to-time, and I remember a late night there dancing on Abba’s Dancing Queen on the tables with some English girl. It was fun.

This little Flemish bar with its Gaudi-style bar is a gem. It’s stylish, colourful but not pretentious. The cocktails are great and the teas are good too. Since it's so small, it's better to be be there in the afternoon, and avoid the crowd.

O'Reilly's your typical Irish pub, but because of its location (just in front of the Bourse), it became an instant success. With dark wood, little nooks and big tables, this big hangout also has a menu if you’re hungry. For you British and Irish sport fans, they have broadcasts of sports game from back home. Don’t worry about using English, half the staff is from English-speaking countries. For an alternative, try the Celtica, not far from there. The party is always on there once it's late enough.

Located in the northern part of the downtown area, this long shopping street has the particularity of being the most expensive on the Belgian Monopoly board. Fashion bugs, it's your paradise, you'll find a lot of them: Benetton is there, Zara is there, H&M has no less than three stores (one in the City 2 mall at the northern tip of the streets). You'll find the famed Innovation (or Inno), a huge department store (like Macy's). It was built in 1897 and who was one of the greatest tragedies in Belgian modern history, as it burned to the ground on May 22, 1967. 253 persons were reported dead or missing.

The other big attraction of the rue Neuve is the City 2 mall. The first mall I had ever seen when my parents took me there when I was a teen. Four floors of shopping galore where you can find anything! Books, sporting goods, clothes, beauty products, crafts, shoes, toys, home decoration... There are 103 stores in there. City 2 also has a grocery store (GB) and the famous FNAC, the main Brussels branch of the French company selling CD's, movies, books, computer games, etc. You'll also find lots of snack bars (which might be helpful after a hard day of shopping). They are mainly located on the -1 floor.

In the rue Neuve, clothes shopping is quite big. There's nothing particularly "Belgian" to buy here (there's a waffle stand almost at the middle of the street). Although the first time I was there, I bought the official football jersey of the national football team!

Located on Place Royale, the Royal Fine Arts Museums are a must-see in Brussels.

In fact, there 2 main museums: Ancient Arts and Modern Arts. You enter the museum via a beautiful common room exhibiting giant paintings from the 19th century.

The Ancient Arts covers the 15th to 18th century with such highlights as Primitive Flemish like Rogier Van Der Weyden and Hieronymus Bosch (he has his own room).

One of my favourite of those ancient painters is Bruegel the Elder (I saw "Icarus's Fall" so many times in books... ) and its depiction of everyday life in the early Renaissance in the Low Countries. You can feel he really took pleasure in the little joys of the peasants' life at the time. His popular paintings are like little time capsule and show the simple life and pleasure of simple people.

If there is a Flemish painter I particularly like, it's Pieter-Paul Rubens. He also has his own room. I particularly love the sensuality of his paintings, the colours, the texture... His plump and rosy-cheeked female figures are very characteristic (yeah, they had other beauty criteria at the time). It's the baroque era folks!

One painting that struck me the most though was Jacques-Louis David's "Marat Assassiné". This is a painting that everybody has seen in his/her history schoolbook when it's time to talk about the French Revolution. Marat was a Revolution leader and was murdered while taking a bath by Charlotte Corday, who held him accountable for the Terror regime. After the fall of Napoleon, David lived (and died) in exile in Brussels and that's the reason why this painting is in Brussels and not at the Louvres. The simplicity and realism of this work is touching. Marat is in his bathtub, one of his arm just laying out of the tub with a quill in his hand (he was a writer for the paper called "L'ami du peuple") and looks peaceful, as if asleep. David was a personal friend of Marat so that explains it all. The painting is exposed on its own on an isolated wall leading the 19th-century paintings and marks the transition between the Ancient and Modern Art museums.

After the Painting of "Marat assassiné" the Modern Arts part of the museum begins, covering the 19th century until now. The second half of the 19th and first half of the 20th being particularly well represented, especially the symbolic and surrealistic movements that were quite big in Brussels.

Amongst the highlights: James Ensor and his witty and ironic paintings with the recurring figures of the skeletons and masks, Fernand Khnopff's "L'Art", the luminous paintings of Rik Wouters, the moving and monumental subjects of Constant Permeke, the playful sculpture of Pol Bury, the poetry of Paul Delvaux known for his oniric subjects mixing naked women and tramways (he has own room and apart from "La voix publique", my favourite is the "Crucifixion," a biblical scene with a twist as all subjects are skeletons!)...
But the main reason for a lot of art lovers to come to Brussels' Modern Arts Museum is the Magritte room. The museum has the largest collection of Magritte paintings, a master of the surrealism movement. Amongst them, my personal favourite: "L'empire des lumieres" which is a perfect representation of what Magritte was all about: taking everyday objects and mixing them or putting them into an environment where this object is out of place or disturbing (in this case, the sky is painted as it would be during the day, and the house and trees are in the dark).

The COBRA (Copenhaguen, Brussels, Amsterdam) is well represented too with leading artists Pierre Alechensky and Asger Jorn).

Of course, you'll find "the big names" such as Monet, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Picasso, Dali, Matisse, Chagall, even Andy Warhol and Keith Haring, who spent a great deal of time in Knokke, a seaside resort town on the Belgian coast. By the time you'll get to the "installation room" (at the end of the museum itinerary), you will be exhausted.

The sculptures are not forgotten either as the museum has a sculpture garden. One of my favourite (inside the museum) is a statue by Joseph Geefz called "Le genie du Mal" ("the genie of Evil") that was originally ordered for a cathedral but was removed quickly not being Christian enough. Indeed, this incarnation of evil is represented as a beautiful youth, a fallen angel, that brings more feelings of fascination than repulsion.

The museum is open from 10 AM to 5 PM. A regular ticket is 5 euros but every first Wednesday afternoon of the month, it's free! They also have a gift shop and a cafeteria (which will be useful because you'll need a break!)

You can visit the museum virtually by going to http://www.fine-arts-museum.be for an overview and http://www.opac-fabritius.be/fr/F_database.htm for the (almost) whole catalogue.

Jacqumotte has been a coffeeroaster for a century and a half, and you can find its coffee in any Belgian grocery store. In addition, some 10 years ago, the company decided to open coffeehouses and one of them is on the Grand'Place.

Coffee lovers, you won't need to pay a lot to have a decent cup of coffee with the Grand'Place as a background. The interior is sleek and cozy with its buttercream walls, maroon seats and metal fixtures. Tables by the windows are often busy but it's the small terrace that's the best once the weather is warm enough... Look at people passing by and admire the Grand'Place during the long Belgian summer twilight or early in the morning, when the sun is not beating down. It's priceless. And of course, your coffee will be served with a cookie or a chocolate!
Recommendation: The cheap but good medium roast, Papua-New Guinean and Colombian coffee, the hot chocolate...

It's hard to believe, but the drab building of the Royal Library Albert 1st (AKA l'Albertine), located on the Mont-des-Arts, hides a secret: its cafeteria, which boasts one of the best views of the city through an almost floor-to-ceiling window. If the weather's good, you can see the Atomium! If you feel hungry, the cafeteria has a good menu, and it's cheap. Or you can just enjoy a coffee while looking at the view.

The Cafeteria is open from Monday to Friday from 9 AM to 4:15 PM.

Aaaaaaaah... Le Sud! An old acquaintance, so to speak. When I first got to Brussels, going into Le Sud was tantamount to entering a speakeasy. First of all, it was not safe (as in not complying to safety building code) and frankly, not legal. But the club had been able to gather a consistent crowd of "underground-hipsters" faithfully hooked on peanuts and Le Sud's vodka-citron. Personally, I ended up there just following my way-cooler-than-me friends. The place looked like a squat and the decor was like one of a tired bazaar. That was part of the bohemian ambiance the place had. It was closed several times but now, Le Sud is back.

For those who are wondering, Le Sud is now up-to-code. You will be greeted by a bouncer and yes, he may not be the nicest, but don't be impressed. The entrance will be probably be around 2.50- 3 Euros and if it is still the case, you'll get a card that will give you free access for a year! The peanuts, vodka and Middle-Eastern influenced interior is still there but now, Le Sud has three rooms. The main one plays current hits, the smallest one is more techno-oriented, the basement is for "oldies" (read: '80s and ‘70s).

The crowd: long gone is the era of those "in-the-known". Now, you'll be more likely to bump into young European Union trainees, local students and maybe an old faithful or two (most of them are too old anyway).

The mood: Not snobby or stuffy and with the help of Le Sud's vodka, it gets even friendlier. You're likely to have a great time.

Chez Johnny I think embodies a bit of the Belgian spirit. It's kitsch, quirky, does not take itself seriously and above all, knows how to have fun.

People, if you're looking for cutting edge techno, this is not your place! First of all, Chez Johnny doesn't call itself a "nightclub" but a "party room" and no need to wait after midnight (like in most nightclubs) to have fun. Chez Johnny starts early and ends late. That's to give you a hint. Between actual hits, kitsch French songs everyone sings along with, '70s disco and '80s nostalgia, Johnny lets you know he's got a serious sense of humour. And to top it all, they've got DJ battles, karaoke and... ladies, you'll like it, what in French is called a "Quart d'heure americain" (literally, "American quarter of an hour"). And what is it? Well... first of all, playing love songs is soooooo out-of-fashion. Johnny never minds, but girls, during this quarter, you'll be the one inviting the guys. That's right! You can grab a cutie and slow-dance with him (finally, there is justice).

And if you're willing to shake what your mama gave 'ya on the bar (they have a competition!!!), you may end up with some free champagne (I know, I tried... lost to a 1,70 meter razor-thin blonde... there was no competition!)

Chez Johnny also offers free dance classes too (see website for details).

It's a friendly, no-fuss, anything-goes place best enjoyed with a group of friends who'll appreciate the "so kitsch it's hip" attitude.

Entrance is 6 Euros, free for the ladies before midnight. http://chezjohnny.be/

Belgium may not be in the Middle East, but it has its own bazaar (or its own version thereof). And like in any bazaar, you can find anything. Seventies platform shoes that would make a drag queen pale with envy? Check! Made-in-Indonesia batik shirt and skirts to complement your hippie outfit? Check! Leather pants and jackets that would make a Hell's Angel proud? Check! A new wallet for your grandpa's birthday (with the mandatory greeting card)? Check! Incense for your pad? A Chinese silk blouse? Sexy underwear? Trinkets? Check, check, check and check!

Well... you've got it now... you can find a lot of stuff, sometimes for cheap (but being so close to the Grand'Place... it's more on the expensive side). Browse the stores and stands - you'll probably find some funny stuff and maybe buy something.

It's amazing considering the location (just between La Bourse and Grand'Place) that Le Cirio has kept its character. It is perhaps one of the most beautiful turn-of-the-century "old Brussels" bar in town. And everything's there: the brass, the marble, the little old madameke and her dog enjoying a drink.

Entering Le Ciro is like entering a time capsule, and as soon as you push the door, the hustle and bustle of Brussels' traffic fades away. The dark woods and quiet will invite you to relax and please. Order the half-en-half (a mix of white wine and bubbly).

With the "mushrooming" of trendy (and ephemeral) bars all around town, Le Cirio is a classic and a fixture, great to go back to when fed up with all the glitz of those new cafés.

Another piece of advice: bring your sweetie with you; it will make you look so grown-up and responsible.

There is a plethora of second-hand stores in Brussels, but Pêle-Mêle is by far the biggest. Enter the place and you’ll feel like Ali-Baba entering his cavern. They have got everything: books, CDs, vinyls, video games, tools... It’s dizzying really.

Their specialty is books and magazines. It’s by far what takes up the most room (some second-hand CD stores, incidentally on the same street and around the same area, have a better selection). The place is HUGE, and I would spend 1 or 2 hours regularly looking for a book or a CD to find. It’s not only because I loved hanging out there but also because... well... to find a particular book, you have to spend quite a bit of time looking for it. Of course, books are sorted by authors’ names, but just by the first letter, so you might find Hawthorne just next to Hugo.

Some rarities can be found (and you can find some original-print comic-strip hound lurking around), but again, you'll have to spend some time there.

Second-hand CDs are a particularly good deal, as CDs are outrageously expensive in Brussels.

It was also a safety net for the cash-starved student that I was during those hard end-of-the-month times when I needed to hold on for a couple of days. Five dollars was easily won, enough to eat pasta and bread for 3 days! Those books, magazine, or CDs I didn't need anymore would be sold.

If you have the time and the energy (yes, the energy - looking for so long can be tiring), get lost in Pêle-Mêle; you won't go back empty-handed.

Check out what the store looks like at http://www.pele-mele.be/

Belgium is not particularly known for its tropical temperature and sunny weather. So what to do when you feel you want to escape on a dull grey Belgian day?

Go to the Oceade. The Oceade is a tropical paradise located in Bruparck (a big amusement park area with Mini-Europe, Kinepolis...) in the Heysel area. One of the biggest aquatic parks in the country, this domed swimming area has it all: wave pool, whirlpools, kiddie pools, outdoor pool, 10 slides (my favourite being the kamikaze (80 meters slide in 18 seconds... whew)), a solarium, and a Finnish sauna. If you are travelling with kids, they will love it.

For those who are over 18 years old, there is a sauna (included in the price for adults).You'll find a Jacuzzi, two saunas at 80°C, one outside sauna at 90°C, a hammam, a cold tub and tanning beds. The first time I was there, you had to go in the buff... yes, naked.

I didn't expect it (my first time in a sauna, too), but hey, it was fun. My friend and I were embarrassed of being embarrassed.

On Sundays, swimsuits were allowed. That was a few years ago, and their website mentions that now you have to wear a swimsuit everyday.

And if you are hungry, there are also several restaurants and snacks on the premises.

Enjoy!

Oceade can be reached with the Metro Line 1a, direction Roi Baudouin/Koning Baudewijn. Stop at Heysel/Heyzel.

For more information, such has opening hours: http://www.oceade.be

You can't be fresher than that!!! I just tried it 20 minutes ago. PP stands for Pathé Palace, an old movie theatre that's kind of a legend, but also, let's face it, one of the shameful examples of indifference toward art and culture. It used to be one of the most beautiful theaters in town. It closed and fell into disrepair until the mid-90's, when the people from Antwerp's Kladaradatsch! opened it again. The place needed a nice after-show bar, and the inevitable Fred Nicolay (who just got started on the bar-lounge building) opened the PP Café. It was quite popular until the movie theatre went under once again! It became the temporary theater for Le Theatre National de la Communaute francaise and is now empty again (projects to transform it into an art and essay theatre emphasizing Belgian cinema is heard these days).

Now, the PP is still there and still has the nice terrace some cheap tapas (starting at 1,90), delicious sandwiches and salads(starting at 2.20; I tried the Serrano ham, sauteed peppers, and roquette salad--it was GREAT!), and scrumptious desserts (the dessert of the day was a chocolate pie--mmmmmmmmmm). The decor is classic Nicolay, and of course, musical happenings are the norm. It's less crowded that the other St-Gery bar, which is a big advantage.

Finally, I have made it to L'Archiduc. I just needed the right excuse (a foreign friend in town looking for a great place to have a drink), and I was not disappointed!

Located in the St-Gery neighbourhood (which has already a nice supply of trendy cafes) behind an unassuming door hides one of Brussels' coolest bar. Ring the bell and enter this beautiful Art Deco gem. Originally a piano bar built in '30s, the place is all in curves, with a second floor overlooking the ground floor, just like a mini-theatre (so people could watch, and hear, the musicians from above). An old piano, said to be Jacques Brel's own, sits at the place of honour, and although I have not seen it, I heard that amateurs are sometimes playing with it. Nice cosy armchairs, a mix of jazz, acid jazz, cool electro, and dimmed lights really add to the cozy feeling. Frankly, it was hard to leave. The prices are a little on the expansive side, but you feel so fabulous ordering a cocktail in that kind of place, and the bar team really know what it's doing with its shakers!

The crowd ? A mix really! 40-something bachelors on a night out ordering spirits, young artsy type hanging at the bar, seasoned travellers who have heard of the place, lovey-dovey couples at tables for two... a pretty classy but not discriminating crowd!

I went back the day after to try their "jazz apres le shopping." Rue Dansaert being where all the famous Belgian designers have established their boutiques, after a hard day of window-shopping (our wallets couldn't afford it), we decided to get warm and enjoy some live music. Soon, a glass of mulled wine and the smooth sound of jazz was just conspiring to prevent me from getting up. I also actually encounter the owner's wife at the toilets (they were there to check on the band playing), and she's an absolutely lovely lady. It runs from 5 to 7pm.

They are also doing a "Take 5" session every Sundays.

Words to the wise: be there half an hour early. It's very popular, and you might not be able to find a seat.

Outside of the center, the borough of Saint-Gilles is a thriving little gem of urban experience. While Ixelles host a whole bunch "bo-bo's" (Bourgeois-Bohemians), Saint-Gilles is the real haven for the true artistic crowd: painters, play directors, novelists and striving actors, have found their place in a commune with a true mix of nationalities and social background. And where do these people meet? At the Brasserie de l'Union, of course! L'Union Saint-Gilloise is THE footclub people support here. Long are gone the glory days of the squad but the bar remained true to its team and you'd better not make fun of it here.

This is a place with a true "atmosphere", wooden chairs and tables, big old wooden bar, a crowd that reflects the diversity of Saint-Gilles. Everybody is welcome and come as you are: local supporters, musicians, young immigrants, little old ladies… This is a bar that just oozes human warmth. Bonus : You can also grab something to eat and on occasions, listen to live music and when the sunny days are coming, the terrace is one of the best in Saint-Gilles.

Out of way but really worth the 10 minute tram ride from the center : Take a tram from De Brouckere or La Bourse stop and stop at Parvis de Saint-Gilles.

Imagine, you are in the capital of Beerland… you have gawked at the Grand'Place and keeping your mouth open marvelling at the scene made your throat dry. In search of a place to drink, you managed to avoid the lure of the waiters of rue des Bouchers, in a tiny street, you notice what looks like a pink elephant. Yes, a pink elephant. You have reached the Delirium Cafe. Go down the stairs and find yourself in an 18th century cave. Look around, all you see are vintage beer adds… In fact, you will probably be drinking sitting around a beer barrell. You are asking for the menu, that's when the waiters come to you with… yes… several menus and it's as big as a phone book! In fact, there are at least 2000 of them but the number can jump to more than 3000 from home and abroad, it depends. I know… things can get a little dizzy even before your lips have even touched the brew. If you are not sure what you'd like, ask the staff. Would like a blonde? A blanche? A brown? Amber? Sweet? Sour? Something typical of Brussels and the area? A trappist maybe? All you need is ask.

But beer is not the only thing… Jenever, Belgium's other alcohol is also available and they have a wide collection of it.

The prices are also quite reasonnable if you consider the location and when you go out, don't forget to say Hi to Manneken Pis's little sister Jeanneke.

Last thing : you can check out the "menu" online. It's worth being prepared: http://www.deliriumcafe.be

To you, traveler who will necessarily have to come across Boulevard Anspach and La Bourse during your visit, you will probably be lured by the big O'Reilly pub just in front of the Bourse. Don't pay attention to it and carry on a little further on the right and you will reach El Metteko… a strange mix between, indeed, since it wears a Spanish name but proclaims itself a "stadcaffe", in typical Brussels fashion. And indeed, the wooden chair and tables, beautiful stained glass and parquet seems to indicate that it is a "traditional cafe" BUT… look at the bar team, listen to the music and look at this warm light that's bathing the place… this is obviously not Grandma's bar. Music from South America and the Caribbean is putting a festive mood.

During the day, it's pretty quiet and the wide assortment of newspapers helps spend a good deal of time sipping a coffee (it helps the service is on the slow side). At night, it's cocktail time! El Metteko prizes itself for their Cuban cocktails (happy hour after 11pm, I confirm their mojito is REALLY good) and during the weekend, it can get pretty wild although I never witnessed it. I have to trust friends and their website. The crowd? A real mix : people working in the area, expats, students. A nice alternative to the St-Gery scene.

Sharing an apartment with an English woman, I was of course put into contact with the strange world of "The Expats" a world within a city that doesn't really cross the world of ordinary Brussels residents. They have their own gathering places, their own parties, etc. And the Brits are probably the best at it. But as well as importing their pubs and happy hours, they imported "Pub Quiz Night"! Geeks of Europe, rejoice! For €2.50, you can take part in a competition of smarts and enjoy a glass of beer or blanche at €1 until 10pm! The game mistress (whom I always picture with a whip in her hands) is very strict on the 5 persons rule. While my flatmate team was full, I had to look for a team that was short of a teammate. I found Octopussy, composed of 40-50'something English gentlemen all working in the same company (and who would blush at sexually explicit question in true Victorian-fashion, maybe that's why they chose the Bond-themed name?), Jane, who works for the Consillium and Lawrence, a Korean engineer who cones all the way fro Louvain-La-Neuve just to attend! Our team is geometrically variable as I got to be known as the "Quiz Mercenary".Located in the EU neighbourhood, it attracts of course, the Commission and Consilium crowd needing a drink after work, young stagiaires and some occasional odd Belgian like myself. The dark woods everywhere pub-theme is how it looks like inside but kudos to the ceiling tiles representing different kind of oaks. I can be found there every Monday evening and there is no way I can be invited to anything that night of the week.

What to say about the Cafe Belga? Well, it's huge. Located in the former Maison de la Radio on Place Flagey in Ixelles (a registered building who was transformed into a cultural center), it also host its own events (live music, DJ-sets, etc.). Decor is typical Fred Nicolay (wooden brown cafes tables and chairs, a real zinc counter, the whole place bathing in warm light) and the pretty bar staff is also pretty slow (I never wait for the waitress to come to my table, always order at the counter), so, how come it is so successful?

Well, the location has to do with something. During the week-end, it's a great place to have a coffee or an aperitif before or after going to the market around the Ixelles Ponds or for a Sunday brunch. You'll find a mixed crowd of students, young parents with their strollers, young professionals and older Ixellois drinking tea. Because it has huge windows, it's particularly nice to have a coffee and read the morning newspaper (although, it has several doors so, try to avoid to sit near one, however tempting it might be). In the afternoon, a lot of people stop by for an after-work drink.

At night, it gets livelier and louder as it's really THE hang-out place after watching a concert or movie at Flagey (why go further when you've got a good place just downstairs?) and during the weekends, the Cafe does its own thing and when you know that Ixelles is a pretty urban and fashionable neighbourhood, no need to say the party will end at the wee hours. The good thing, is that there is always a pretty good chance that you'll see the artist at the bar after the performance. In addition to the drinks menu, the Cafe Belga has a nice selection of dishes although a bit on the pricey side. All of that, makes Cafe Belga a pretty cool place to hang-out...and that's all we ask of the place.

Going from Brussels Airport to town is easy as 1-2-3. A train links all 3 main Brussels stations (Nord/Noord, Central/Centraal and Midi/Zuid) to the airport station located at the -1 level of the airport terminal. When you get off the plane, take the elevator or the escalator and you're there. And it's only a 20 minute train ride!

The train starts running from at around 5:30 am until past midnight. From Brussels, the first train is at around 4:40 am until 11 pm (from Bruxelles-Midi) and it will cost you 2,50 € in second class.

Some trains go further than Brussels and might take you to Ghent (and eventually Bruges) or Mons (for instance).

If you're taking the train on the weekend, check the schedule as it might be different. For train schedule, go to http://www.b-rail.be

There is also an Express Bus Line, Line 12 starting at the Brussels Luxemburg train station, it stops at the NATO headquarter on the way to the Airport. They run (from Brussels-Luxemburg) from 7:33 am to 7:34 pm and from the airport, the buses run from 5:45 am until 11:10 pm Attention though, the buses from Brux-Lux don't run on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays BUT the one from the airport do run and stops at Schuman instead of Luxemburg. Oh... and the ticket is 3 Euros.

Needless to say... the train seems the most efficient solution.

For more information (and alternatives) about to go or leave the airport, follow my link!

Website: http://www.brusselsairport.be/to_from_airport/index.cfm?lang=en

The STIB (in French) or MIVB (in Dutch) is the public transportation company in Brussels. They offer three different forms of transportation: the metro, the tram and the bus.

The metro network is really easy to figure out. It's essentially two lines (one going around the boulevards that are the limits of the city of Brussels itself (the Pentagone) and one crossing the city from east to west with two branches at each extremity.

The Line 1A starts at Belgium's biggest stadium: King Baudouin and stops at : Heysel (for the Atomium, Brupark and Heysel exhibition grounds). It joins line 1B at Beekant and among useful stops: Ste-Catherine, de Brouckere (for rue Neuve, Place de Brouckere and Grand'Place), Gare Centrale (Central station), Parc (for the Royal Park), Arts/Lois for the ministeries and embassies, Schuman for the European District. It splits again from 1B at Merode.

The Line 1B starts at Erasme hospital, one of Brussels's biggest universty hospital, it then joins 1 a to cross the city centre and splits at Merode, Alma is the stop you want for the medicine campus of the University of Louvain-La-Neuve and the St-Luc University hospital.

The end of the line is at Stockel.

Line 2 almost completely circle the city.Important stops are Rogier (for rue Neuve and hotels around Place Rogier), you can catch the tram there), Botanique (for the Botanique Garden), Arts/Loi (where Line 1a/b crosses Line 2), Porte de Namur (to access Matonge, the African neighborhood and chaussee d'Ixelles shopping), Louise (for luxury shopping on avenue Louise and hotels), Porte de Hal (for those nightflies who wants to go to the Fuse or eat at Le Bazaar or the early birds who feel like walking to Place du Jeu-de-balles for the flea market) and Gare du Midi (Midi Station), where you an catch Thalys and Eurostar trains.

The tram

Crossing the middle of the city is the underground portion of the tram line (also called "pré-métro"), very useful and busy. The important stops: Gare du Nord (North Station), Rogier (for rue Neuve), de Brouckere (where you can catch the metro), Bourse (for the stock exchange and Grand'Place) and Gare du Midi (Midi station).

But the above ground tram is really a great way to explore the city as it has its own space on the road and little affected by traffic. Amongst the interesting lines: Line 92 starting North at the Schaerbeek Train station, crossing the Upper-Town (stops at the Museums of Fine Arts, Royal Square, Petit Sablon, Palace of Justice, Avenue Louise (you can catch the Line 2 metro), Place Stephanie and crossing St-Gilles before reaching the affluent borough of Uccle and the end of the line at Fort-Jaco, close to the Foret de Soignes (Soignes Forest) where many Bruxellois spend their Sundays.

Line 93 has the same itinerary as Line 92 except it splits at Place Stephanie to go towards the Universite Libre de Bruxelles (ULB), Brussels's biggest university.

Line 81 is a nice alternative to go to the Heysel if you don't want to spend your time underground. It is longer but will take you to different neighbourhoods. You can catch it in the underground tram lines stops.

The Line 44 is also important: it is located in the other underground portion of the tram system and you can catch it inside the Montgomery station (Line 1B) and it will take you through some fancy neighbourhoods all the way to suburban Tervueren and the Museum of Central Africa.

Buses

The third transportation option is the bus.

There are a lot of lines so I'll only point out 1: the Line 71. A very famous "double-bus" line that crosses the most important area in the center of Brussels before reaching Ixelles and the University campuses.

Line 71 starts at Place de Brouckere and stops by the Galleries St-Hubert, Central station, Place Royale (for the museums of Fine Arts and the Music Instruments museums), Parc Royal and Royal Palace, and Porte de Namur (you can reach Avenue Louise with a short walk) before taking the Chaussee d'Ixelles (some good shopping to do there or you can visit Matonge, the Congolese neighborhood) as it gets deeper into Ixelles, you'll pass by l'Amour Fou (a very popular bar), La Maison de la Radio (Radio House) a recently renovated building that looks like an ocean liner and used to house the first years of the belgian National radio. It is now a cultural center where you can see concerts and the bar has become quite popular. Just after is the stop of les Etangs d'Ixelles (Ixelles Ponds), two ponds that are a little oasis (many students come here to relax, you'll also see families on Sundays and elderly ladies feeding the ducks). The tram carries on to the main University campus (or Campus Solbosch) then, to the Campus shared by the ULB and VUB (its Flemish counterpart) or Campus de La Plaine and finishing its run at Delta where you can catch the metro.

Line 71 is now famous because it is the first line in Brussels that has a night service: the N71. It only works on Friday nights though and until 3:00 am, but for a city that never had night services, it's a start.

A little useful tip... Brussels has no night public transportation services. The last Metro leaves around 1 AM and Line N71 is only one line that works only on Friday. Your only alternative is a taxi (you HAVE to have the number of a taxi company in handy to pick you up).

So, what to do if you're too broke for a costly cab? Well... here's a tip that might be helpful. At night, buses run between their garages and if you know where the bus stops and if you have a ticket, you can take it. To get a schedule, you can go to one of those garages (one of them being in Ixelles, tale the bus 71 and ask for "le depot d'Ixelles". Make sure with the driver that it stops close to where you want to go (the itinerary might be different). One night, I was at the Campus de la Plaine after a party and no one to drive me home. Some friends told me one of those buses was going to drive by soon and indeed, I lucked out! After 10-15 minutes, here comes the bus. It was going to take me close to home but not before doing a loooong circle around Brussels' boroughs. The campus is south of the city and the bus went all the way to Laeken (up north) before driving by the northern edge of inner Brussels. It took an hour, by I was home. Funny story... after 15 minutes, I really, really had to pee. Yes, too much beers will do that to you. I tried to hold it and spend half-an-hour in a torture state I can't even imagine! The little occasional bumps on the road were not making things easier... and even I stopped, where would I go. I almost had lost hope when I see a park. Shame vanished in front of necessity and I asked the driver: "Sir, could you stop 2 minutes. I really have to go... real bad and there's a park there". I must have looked miserable because instead of laughing, the driver gave me a concerned look and asked me kindly. "Do you want me to wait for you?" "That would be kind of you, yes". I ran as fast as I could, desperately looked for a bush tall enough to hide me and relieved myself. It never felt so good! I hoped on the bus again and started striking a conversation with the bus driver. Soon enough, I was left 100 meters from home.

Only at night...

Website for public transportation: http://www.stib.irisnet.be

The Metro is not only a convenient and efficient way to travel through Brussels, it's also a big museum.

In the 1960's, when the Metro line was being built, it was decided that, to avoid the blandness of an underground station, every stop would be made different and the project was to involve artists and architects to make every station an open and original space. And now, the Metro can be visited like a giant museum where art comes to you and where some people would take the metro just to have a look at those pieces of work. And Brussels really did do a great job getting many artists from different background to collaborate.

Because the lines and their extension where built at different times (from the '60s to late '90s), you'll find a great variety of styles.

Amongst my favourite: Paul Delvaux's fresco at the Bourse Station. When you know that trams are a recurring figure of this surrealist master, you can imagine that he was really happy to do this. Watch up: Pol Bury's sculpture is also quite worth a look.

Comic strips are big in Belgium that's why one of Belgium's most famous sons is immortalized in the Stockel station. I am talking about Herge's Tintin. Yes, the young reporter, his dog Snoway, Captain Haddock and the rest is in the metro. Sadly, Herge died before the completion of the work. He had the time to draw the plan before though.

Another big name is Francois Schuytten whose love for architecture is quite well-known. His books are often depicting a Brussels caught in the twilight zone. Familiar but at the same time creepy. Mixing the old Brussels and futuristic elements (read Brussel). His mold of an old tram that seems like appearing out of nowhere at the Porte de Hal station is a must-see.

Vic Gentils's "Aequs Nox"at the Thieffry station is quite spectacular and you won't be surprised to know it's been made in 70s. It represents a rising sun and it sure is shiny.

The Parvis de St-Gilles has the Universal Declaration of Human Rights written all over it, literally. The artist, Francoise Scheyn, has applied the same concept in cities like London, Berlin or Haifa. The station of Horta celebrates the architect who better represented Art Nouveau: Victor Horta with elements rescued from the destruction of the Maison du Peuple and Hotel Aubecq. Even the COBRA movement is represented with a painting by one of the movement leader, Pierre Alechinsky and Christian Dotremont at Anneesens. So... take the Metro and look around, beauty is all around, even underground.

Oh... you can also visit most of the stations on the STIB's website so, follow the link below.

For a virtual visit of art in the Metro: http://www.stib.irisnet.be/FR/51200F.htm. No English version available, sorry.

Of course, you can't leave Brussels without bringing a "ballotin" of "pralines".
How do you tell which one is good? A good quality chocolate at a reasonable price is Leonidas. Made with fresh ingredients, they have to be eaten pretty quickly. You can find Leonidas stores all over Brussels. There's one near Grand-Place and one on Boulevard Anspach, between Place de Brouckere and the Bourse.

Words of warning: Belgians often bring chocolate as a gift for a party, a birthday... any occasions really. DON'T bring Leonidas (unless it's for the kids) as you will be regarded as being a cheapskate.
The one that started it all was Neuhaus. Mr. Neuhaus, son of a Swiss immigrant, started the whole Belgian Chocolate craze in the 19th century. His first store was, and still is, in the Galleries St-Hubert. Mrs Neuhaus deserves credits to have invented the "ballotin", that characteristical little box to keep your chocolate. Neuhaus is still top notch.
Godiva is now exporting itself quite well (see your local department store like Marshall Fields or Macy's) or your local coffee shop. The flagship store on the Grand'Place is a little chocolate heaven... yummy! Their chocolate is good but really overpriced!
Amongst the newcomers (and expensive) in the Belgian chocolate world is Pierre Marcolini. I never had the opportunity to try it but I heard it quickly became one of the most sought after brand. His chocolates with subtle mixes and unusual flavours would be best suited for real chocoholic who know what they're about to taste. He has a shop on Place du Grand Sablon, 39 and also one on Avenue Louise, 75M (amongst others).
Galler is the brand prized by the royal court. Its specialty is chocolate bars (coconut filled white chocolate, champagne filled dark chocolate...). The main store is located off Grand'Place (Rue au Beurre 44) but you can find the bars at most grocery stores. They also make "Langue de Chat", a special chocolate designed after one of Belgium's most beloved comic-strip cat :Philippe Geluck's Le Chat.
If you don't want to blow your budget, may I recommend Cote d'Or. It is owned by a Swiss company now but the quality is just as good and they have so many varieties it's hard to choose from (I personally love their Advocaat-filled dark chocolate bar). You can find them in the tourist area at the Delhaize grocery store near the Bourse or at the GB store in the City 2 mall. Don't buy them at the many little stores you see in the centre, they are overpriced. Go to a real grocery store!
There are also a lot of other brands but unfortunately, I can't comment on them as I have never tried them. Wittamer is quite renowned (shop and cafe both on the Place du Grand Sablon), Mary Chocolatier is on 73, Rue Royale (you can order her pralines online at http://www.marychoc.com/!). Seems like president Bush went out of his way to get some there when he was in Brussels.
Now... I REALLY need chocolate!
Which reminds me... my best memory tied to chocolate was a funny one. I was going back home from school and finally decided to stop at Jeff de Bruges on rue de l'Etuve (Manneken Pis' street) and got a bag of butter cream praliné-filled dark chocolate pralines. As it melted in my mouth, I stopped on my track... It was so damn good! I assume I must have had a "gustative orgasm". But to my horror, the store closed and I discovered that "Jeff" who's said to be from Bruges is in fact from France (they just didn't stop at "stealing" our best French-speaking singers, they still have to take our chocolate) and they closed all of their stores in Belgium.

Brussels had its own dialect for a while. A mix of mainly Flemish dialect, with a bit of French and even a dash of Hebrew and Spanish, this dialect is now rarely spoken, but a lot of words still have sprung up with the French-speakers in Brussels. So here is a little vocabulary.

First of all, Brussels is a city of Zinneke: a mutt, mixed-blood dog, and by extension now, a multi-cultural person. Brussels is so proud of being a Zinneke that it has the huge Zinneke Parade once every two years. Usually, four different processions start at the different geographic corners and join in the center of Brussels, celebrating the wealth of the melting-pot Brussels is.
Brussels is a city that where the "Zwanze" is alive! Zwanze is a joke, and by extension, describes a predilection to play tricks and have a good time. If you're that kind of person, then you are likely a "zwanzer".
If you are a young boy, don't be surprised if you're being called a "ketje" (or ket) -- that's an affectionate little word for a boy or a young man. Older men can be referred to as "peï".
Also, if you end up at the "Amigo", it could be one of Brussels's most luxurious hotels, but it is also the name of the city jail.
For French-speakers, see the link for an interesting site about "Brusselers": http://www.eurobru.com/visit16.htm and http://www.cyberbruxelles.be/.

Many travelers flock to Brussels to enjoy the beautiful Gothic, Renaissance, and Art Nouveau architecture that the city can offer. However, Brussels is also known for style blunders, big ones, ones so big it has its own term in architectural and urban lingo: bruxellisation.

And what is it? This "modernity frenzy" coupled with greedy real estate powerhouses led to the destruction of old buildings to make way for the buildings of the future; this started in the late '60s, when Belgium's economy was swinging.

Not even Horta's "Maison du Peuple," which was supposed to be one of his finest work, could stand the strength of that steamroller. The house was destroyed despite protests. The whole Quartier Leopold neighbourhood disappeared to make room for European institutions.

Results of the process of bruxellisation? A complete destruction of a traditional and homogeneous architecture, losing at the same time the city's memory and soul.

In fact, the phenomenon was so bad that students in architecture and urbanism from all over the world are shown Brussels as an example of what not to do. Hopefully this period is over (well... once the "Espace Nord" area, nicknamed "Manhattan," will be done). People and officials have come to realize the damage it's doing.

Well, maybe unless the European Union needs some more buildings?

Here's for the viewing a fine example of bruxellisation: The Centre Monnaie. Built in 1971, this gaudy star-shaped monstrosity is dwarfing the 19th-century Haussmanian-styled Place de Brouckère and Boulevard Anspach, cutting right through the link between the square and the boulevard, destroying the architectural unity.

Ah! The famed Frites, or Frietjes! Belgium's national pride has taken the world over. It's delicious, it's addictive, it's not very healthy, but I think it's high up on many people's favourite food item.

The Friterie or Fritkot is a common fixture of the Belgian landscape. It's usually very small and consist of a small caravan or shed where the fries are made and people get them to go. Sometimes, it'll be a real snack with tables and chairs but the number of sitting-down options seems inversely proportionate to the goodness of the fries (don't know why). Usually, fries are made so you can bring them back home and enjoy them while watching TV.

To make real frites, the Bintje variety of potatoes (THE variety of choice for frites) MUST be used. They are freshly cut (not frozen, run away if you notice bags of frozen fries), and they use beef fat to fry them in two steps (fried once until they are becoming a little crispy but still white then a second time until golden so they are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside), as frites must be prepared. They will be flipped over several times in a metallic pan to drain the excess fat, and salted (twice if served in a cone) with a usually battered metallic salt container. Of course, your frites will be served in a paper cone, but you can also find them served on paper trays. You may ask for a big dollop of sauce on your fries or, in a separate plastic cup. The choice of sauce in Belgium is humongous: mayonnaise (of course), ketchup, curry ketchup, andalouse (one of the most popular), americaine, cocktail, samouraï, tartare, garlic, brésilienne. One tiny detail that often surprises visitors: you have to pay for the sauce. Not much but it's the general rule.

You can also order some meat to go with your fries and again. It's usually deep-fried and unhealthy but hey, once in a while! It's all part of the frites experience. The most traditional of meat is the fricadelle. I'd be hard pressed to say what's it's made of! All I know if that it is meat, looks like a sausage and it needs to be fried before serving. "Frites et fricadelle" are THE Belgian combination. Funnily enough, everybody eat a "fricadelle" but ask anyone what's in it and you'll get a blank stare. You'll also find different kind of kebabs (brochettes): regular, gipsy (tzigane), chicken wings, ardennaise (my favourite, with pieces of bacon), fish and even merguez (middle-eastern spicy sausage). All of the following also need to be fried. There's also a lot of different others weird stuff such as poulycroc or mexicano which I never dared to try... and then there is the cervelas, a cold sausage. It's quite old fashioned but one of the few non-fried meat option. The item known as mitrailette (shotgun), or baguette, is simply fries and a meat of your choice inside half a French baguette. Not for the faint of heart!!! Of course, you will also find hamburger and the famous bicky burger (named after the bicky sauce) and even pita or durum (becoming widely available). On the opposite, the famous bowl of mussels (without the shell) is seldom seen these days. The possibilities are endless, really!

One last detail (but it has it's importance), if you ask your fries to go, they will be covered by a layer of paper to keep them warm. Real professionals know that a cut has to be made so the fries can breathe. Otherwise, they will turns all soggy because of the steam imprisoned by the paper and you don't that to happen. If that happens, then your fries guy/gal doesn't know what's it's doing. Bon appetit!

Best fries places to visit:

Maison Antoine: Place Jourdan. Still said to be the best in Brussels despite some claims of the opposite. Read my tip.

Friterie de la Chapelle: Place de la Chapelle—rumored to have taken Maison Antoine's crown. Have to try to confirm.

Friterie de la rue Tabora: in this little street tucked between the Stock Exchange and Grand'Place, you will find the best fries closest to the Grand' Place. It's small so, you might miss it. The friterie is ran by a Portuguese husband and wive.

After hours: OK, you've been out all night and need to eat? Fritland next to the Stock Exchange is open all night. For a quick fix when nothing else is open. The fries have improved since I came back a year ago and are more than edible.

In Ixelles: Friterie de la Place Flagey: Some (amongst them famous novelist Amélie Nothomb) claim it's one of the best in Ixelles and even in Brussels. Sorry, I've found better, but it's surely one of the busiest! Everybody in Ixelles goes there. With all the construction going around on Place Flagey, it's reputation is enough to sustain the business. It managed to keep a little spot in all the chaos.

Friterie Bompa: When I moved to Ixelles, I noticed this real neighbourhood fritkot and tried it on my first night, not having anything in my fridge. Turned out to be a very serious contender to the best fries in Brussels! They are even better than the ones made on Place Flagey (crispier and tastier). You can even order a half-chicken and crushed apple to make a real meal of your fries.

71, Avenue de la Couronne - http://www.fritkotbompa.be/

For the real "Frites" lovers : http://www.frites.be