Krakow

Overview

We were on a fairly short break to Krakow – four and half days, barely enough time to scratch the surface -- so we stayed mainly around the central area, exploring the Old Quarter, Wawel Hill, Okol and Stradom Quarters and Kazimierz, the Jewish Quarter. There was certainly plenty to see -- The Castle and Cathedral on Wawel Hill are well worth lingering in. You may find you want to linger longer than you should over coffee while watching the world go by in the Rynek Glowny (Market Square). While the dignity and peace of the Remu'h Cemetary( will make you want to stand in quiet contemplation. The majesty of Kosciol Mariacki (St. Mary’s Church), with the wonderfully carved 15th century High Altar by Wit Stwosz, shouldn’t be missed. You certainly won’t miss the hourly hejnal, a plaintive trumpet call, played from the taller of the two church towers. In fact you may, like us, find yourselves stopping and listening out for it then smiling as the first few notes drift across the Square. After wandering through the arcades of the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), looking for souvenirs from the stalls there, I’d visit the Cloth Hall Gallery which contains huge, fantastic canvasses painted by Polish artists such as Jan Matejko and Josef Chelmonski.

From churches to galleries to trumpet calls, Krakow has so much to offer. It’s a wonderful city.

Quick Tips:

Orientation is fairly easy. The Market Square, with the spires of St. Mary and the Town Hall Tower, are good focal points in the Old Quarter. Grodzka Street, which runs from the Market Square through Okol and down to Wawel Hill, is a good place to get your bearings. And if you find yourself in Planty, the landscaped gardens laid out on the site of the city's medieval fortifications, it is easy to find your way back to the Okol, Stradom or the Old Quarter.

Arm yourself with a good street map (although as with a lot of places getting lost or off the beaten track can often lead you to an unexpected discovery or pleasure), a sturdy pair of walking shoes, for all those cobblestones, and plenty of camera film!

Best Way To Get Around:

The compact nature of the central area lends itself to walking, and public transport does not run through many of the old town streets. Mind you there is so much to see in the architecture of those streets that walking seems to be not only the easiest but the best way of getting around. Your feet may start to protest but your eyes will never tire of searching out the next spire or gable or façade.

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Hotel Wit Stwosz

Hotel

The Hotel Wit Stwosz is in a perfect location for exploring Krakow being a very short, less than 5 minute walk from the Church of St. Mary, Rynek Glowny (the Market Square), the Cloth Hall and other sights in the Old Town with the Castle and Kazimierz a longer but pleasant stroll away. The Planty is basically at the end of the road and the hotel is also about a 10 minute walk from the railway station and bus stop providing access to and from the Airport

The rooms are high-ceilinged, of average size but with plenty of space for storage. As well as the beds (twin-beds pushed together) the rooms contain wardrobe and draw space, a small table and chairs and a TV, the furniture being plain but attractive.

The rooms are simply decorated but very comfortable and lovely and warm, quite important if visiting in a cold Krakow winter. The bathrooms are small, more of a shower room really, but very clean and more than adequate.

The public areas are, like the rooms, simply but attractively decorated and the cellar restaurant, where breakfast is served is cosy and welcoming. Breakfast is basic - breads, cheese, meats, cereal, yoghurts, and delicious vegetable salad with tea and coffee - but tasty and set us up well for the day.

The staff are fantastic. Friendly, efficient and very, very helpful. They will arrange tours to, for instance, the Salt Mines and Auschwitz if you wish.

I would certainly recommend staying at the Hotel Wit Stwosz. I am not sure how many rooms the hotel has but the feeling we got was of a small, quiet and relaxing place where we both immediately felt at ease. Comfortable and welcoming it is a lovely hotel in a lovely city.

Website: www.wit-stwosz.com.pl

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by mightywease on January 17, 2007

Hotel Wit Stwosz
ul. Mikołajska 28 Krakow, Poland 31-027
+48 (12) 429-60-26

Szara Resto & Bar

Restaurant | "Szara"

The Szara Restaurant is in an ideal location on the Rynek Glowney and in a rainy March it provided a warm, welcoming atmosphere to two tired visitors.

Crisp linen, floral decorations, mirrors and crystal gives the restaurant a formal air. In fact in my jeans and boots I felt rather scruffy in such pleasant, smart surroundings. However, whereas in the United Kingdom smart and plush can sometimes mean stuffy and elitist Szara was nothing of the sort. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly, we were made to feel very welcome and the service was exemplary.

As for the food, well, that was pretty good too. In fact it was very good with a menu that included a mixture of traditional polish dishes, meat and seafood. We were served some excellent herrings in three different sauces, Salmon with Hollandaise sauce and a very nice stuffed chicken breast. There was also a comprehensive wine list including a number of dessert wines plus a selection of liqueurs and, of course, some well chosen vodkas

Prices are perhaps a little above average - we paid 240 PLN (approx. £41.00/$77.00) for 2 courses, wine and coffee - however, well worth paying for the food and ambiance.

It was a pleasure to eat at Szara, good food in lovely surroundings. And our waiter looked a bit like the actor Owen Wilson. Not sure that made any impression on my husband but I rather enjoyed it.

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by mightywease on July 30, 2006

Szara Resto & Bar
Rynek Glowney 6 Krakow, Poland
+48 (12) 421 66 69

Farina Restaurant

Restaurant

The Farina Restaurant, situated a couple of minutes away from Rynek Glowny, has a menu comprising Mediterranean dishes, pasta, traditional Polish cuisine and - its speciality - fresh fish.

It’s a charming venue, the decoration is rustic with light green walls, wooden furniture, wooden shutters and subdued lighting - perfect for an intimate evening meal.

The atmosphere too is lovely, welcoming and friendly, a lot of the credit for which must be given to the staff who were all excellent. While we were there a table of four rather demanding people arrived and the staff dealt with their ever-increasing requests with great patience and concern. More than I could have mustered - they were annoying me and I was just sitting there, not having to serve them!

As for then food it too was excellent, well cooked, well presented and very tasty. And, thought certainly not the cheapest place to eat in Krakow, it was very good value. A starter and main course each, one dessert, one coffee, a bottle of wine and two vodkas cost approx. 280 zloty (approx. £48.00/$90.00). Which for a slap up meal in a lovely place isn’t – I feel - bad!

We had
Complimentary bread and mushroom pate - lovely and homely
Starters
Herrings in Oil with Onion - fresh, clean, simple taste which made my mouth water
Poultry Liver with Wine and Tomatoes - a myriad of rich tastes and a generous portion, delicious

Main Courses
Doranda (fish) cooked with garlic and herbs - again simple but excellent, with a very nice flavour
Mussels with Leek, Garlic and Wine - lovely creamy sauce, good for dipping bread in!
Fried Potatoes, Peas and Carrots

Dessert
Crème Brulee - yum!
Coffee, Wine and 2 vodkas

I'd recommend booking as it seems a popular place

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by mightywease on July 30, 2006

Pod Aniolami

Restaurant

The ambience of this restaurant is amazing. Housed in an old cellar, you are welcomed by the sound of running water – courtesy of the small fountain on one wall – and bird song – courtesy of the caged birds singing to each other across the restaurant. We spent a good few minutes trying to decide whether or not the birds were real. They were real, or else they were extremely convincing automata.

All this – plus the eclectic collection of bric-a-brac on the walls and the friendly and efficient waiting staff – helps to create an interesting and pleasant atmosphere in which to enjoy the traditional Polish food that is on the menu.

We had

Fish Soup – delicious
‘Angels’ Pate (mixed meat and horseradish) – very good

Main Course:-
Tench in cream sauce with Broccoli and Rice – lovely
Wild Boar with Bacon, Mushrooms and Cranberry Sauce with potatoes – Fantastic!

Dessert
Apple Pie and Cream

Drinks
Beer, Coffee and Vodka

Total for 2 people including tip = 215 zloty (approx. £37/$69)

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by mightywease on July 30, 2006

Pod Aniolami
Ulica Grodzka, 35 Krakow, Poland 31-001
+48 12 421 3999

Hawelka

Restaurant

Hawelka restaurant on Rynek Glowney has been serving food to Cracovians and visitors since the 19th century, when Antoni Hawelka opened a breakfast room in his shop.

The ambience is European old-style elegance, with muted lighting, wooden partitions, crisp white napkins, and tablecloths. It appeared a bit forbidding when we first entered, but first impressions are not always the full story, as we found the service to be friendly and efficient (our waiter looked disturbingly like a good friend of ours!) and the atmosphere relaxed.

As for the food, it was good, solid, traditional, and well cooked, something you can get your teeth into, as my husband put it! And though not the cheapest meal we had in Krakow, it was still a very good value.

We had

Salmon and Horseradish - very nice
Carp Jewish style (in Aspic) - interesting but not entirely to my taste; that doesn't mean it wasn't well presented or there was anything wrong with it!

Sole with Cream, Broccoli and Fried Potatoes - very nice. vert tasty
Duck Cracovian Style with Dumplings - lovely comfort food

Chocolate Torte
Apple Pie and Cream

Beer, Vodka and Coffee

Total cost for 2 people plus tip: 190 zloty approx. £33.00/$61.00

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by mightywease on July 30, 2006

Hawelka
Rynek Główny 34 Krakow, Poland 31-010
+42 (12) 422 06 31

Restauracja Balaton

Restaurant

Situated along the walk from the Rynek Glowny to Wawel Hill, the restaurant Balaton at ul Grodzka 37 provides excellent value Hungarian and Polish cuisine.

The surroundings are simple but pleasant: White walls, wooden chairs and benches, black and white photos on the wall, and an array of hanging wooden fish. The menu comprises a variety of soups, brought to your table in a metal dish suspended over an open flame from which you ladle it into your bowl. Herrings, salmon, and salami for starters are followed by main courses of meat (including veal and wild boar goulash), poultry, and fish dishes, many incorporating potato cakes and dumplings. There is, however, only one vegetarian dish: Potato cakes with mushroom sauce.

Service was understated but friendly and with a touch of flourish. For instance, a main course of Hungarian-style chicken was brought out sizzling from the kitchen and served ceremoniously from a platter onto the plate. As for the food itself, it was great, tasty, filling, well-cooked, and well-spiced. The main course of trout was perfectly cooked, crisp skin with melt-in-your-mouth flesh underneath. Each main course also came with a side order of refreshing carrot, red and white cabbage salad. And the price for two people for two courses with beer and vodka was 99 zloty, including a tip (approx. £17/$33). Excellent.

We had:

Bean soup - (“I don’t care what it’s ‘been’ what it is now!” Sorry, couldn’t resist the old joke!) – spicy, moorish
Mushroom soup – tasty and warming
Trout with almonds and boiled potatoes – absolutely superb
Chicken Hungarian-style with dumplings – very good spicy sauce of tomatoes, pepper, mushroom, and onion
Two beers, two vodkas

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by mightywease on January 9, 2007

Restauracja Balaton
Ulica Grodzka, 35 Krakow, Poland 31-044
+48 12 422 0469

Restauracja Kawaleria

Restaurant | "Restaurant Kawaleria"

I have to admit that when I read that Restaurant Kawaleria, “Cavalry” I believe in Polish, was equine themed, I was worried that I would be sharing a rustic space with a display of horse shoes, horse brasses, horse paintings and, worst of all, cartoons of robust girls on small ponies. I’m afraid I tend to view equine pursuits with ambivalence or bewilderment. However, Kawaleria proved to be an elegant, attractive restaurant specialised in contemporary Polish cuisine.

The first two rooms – a bar and dining room - are quite intimate with cream walls, sepia photos, wooden furniture and subdued lighting.

The room we were seated in is more of a banqueting space, very pleasant perfect for large groups and parties but a little empty with just the two of us at 6 in the evening. Towards the end of the room is a wonderful old stove and, yes, there are equine themed black and white photographs but actually this gallery, well displayed on the pale blue walls, was both decorative and interesting.

The menu is traditional Polish with a modern slant, starters include crab terrine, Polish sour rye soup, battered sardines and the intriguing but a little gruesome (at least for a non-meat eater like me) piglet in jelly. Main courses take in a selection of meats in sauces and casserole including wild boar, duck and turkey. For non meaties there are fish and vegetarian options, the latter including pancakes and pierogi. The food was extremely well presented and service throughout the evening was excellent. The standard of cooking was good but I am not sure that the main courses we had exactly worked, the carp was tasty but a little overpowered by the strong taste of the mushrooms, the Turkey could have done with a little more garlic and a little more sauce. However, it was still a very nice meal and I would certainly eat there again, not least because of the lovely ambience and attentive staff.

We had:

Herrings in Spicy Sauce – very fresh, clean taste complimented by a light curry sauce
Cheese Plate – smoked, blue, soft brie style and plenty of it – delicious
Sunflower bread – very tasty

Carp with Mushrooms and Boiled Potatoes– very nice but the mushrooms were a little overpowering. The potatoes were lovely and stodgy, just as I like them
Turkey with Spinach and Garlic Sauce – spinach provided a very interesting space, portion was a bit small

One large bottle of water, one espresso, 2 vodkas

134zl (inc. tip) approx. £25/$47

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by mightywease on January 17, 2007

Restauracja Kawaleria
ul. Gołębia 4 Krakow, Poland 31-007
+48 (12) 430 24 32

Chlopskie Jadlo

Restaurant

To be honest I didn’t really enjoy the meal I had here although I think that is probably due to the choice of dishes we made rather than the quality of the food.

Firstly I really liked the interior of the restaurant, like the inside of a rustic country cottage with rough wooden tables and farming and cooking instruments decorating the stone walls. Service was efficient although I got the feeling we were being slightly rushed through our meal – which I would have understood if it was late or they were busy but it was 7pm on a weekday evening and there was only about 4 of us in the restaurant at the time.

The food is well cooked, traditional Polish fare – you are given complimentary bread, cream cheese and lard (a bit like dripping) which was great, however, as I said at the start, I think we chose the wrong things. The fried cheese with cranberries was rubbery and very, very salty and the Pierogi stuffed with cheese and cabbage was dry. The baked potato with sour cream, however, was lovely. With drinks (beer) and tip the bill form the two of us plus tip was 90 zloty (approx. 15 sterling) extremely reasonable and good value.

I would certainly visit the restaurant again, particularly as it has got some excellent reviews from other visitors, however, I would probably try and choose some different dishes.

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by mightywease on January 17, 2007

Chlopskie Jadlo
Ulica Sw. Agnieszki, 1 Krakow, Poland 31-071
+48 (12) 421 8520

Wawel Castle Courtyard

Attraction | "Wawel Castle"

The Royal Castle on Wawel Hill probably went through many manifestations between 1038, when Krakow was established as the Polish capital, to 1504, when construction began of the current Renaissance building. It has certainly seen many changes since then. It has seen the royal court moved from Krakow to Warsaw, which became the country's capital. It has been used as an army barracks and occupied by foreign powers. But it has survived and is now a wonderful museum. Entrance to the various parts of the castle i.e. the State Rooms, Royal Apartments, etc. is from the very attractive Italianate courtyard. Three tiers of balconies/colonnades lift your eyes up the building to the decoration below the roof. The effect is really beautiful. Sadly, when we visited in March, the State Rooms were closed. However, we were able to tour some of the Royal Apartments, which included rooms used by the kings and visiting dignitaries. There is a small collection of furniture from different periods, including a painted dowry chest, and a collection of religious art and statuary. Some of the rooms retain their original painted ceilings and two have walls covered in coloured leather. There are also examples of the wonderful Zygmunt Tapestries This collection of 360 tapestries was begun by Zygmunt I and continued by his son, Zygmunt August. The tapestries were commissioned for specific places on the walls of the Royal Castle on Wawel and, thus, were tailor-made to fit the exact dimensions of the area where they were to be hung. The themes of the tapestries range from biblical stories, animal and landscapes to mythical creatures, coats of arms and allegorical scenes. Catherine the Great appropriated the tapestries for herself, having them transported to Russia. They were returned in 1921 but removed to Canada at the start of the Second World War. The tapestries were finally returned to Krakow in 1961. They really are amazing pieces of art. Huge, intricate and finely detailed, the amount of work that must have gone into creating them is stunning. Entrance to the Royal Apartments with a – very informative guided tour – was 12pln (about 1.72sterling) We were also able to visit the Royal Armoury, which holds an interesting collection of weapons, armour – including some very impressive winged suits of armour –saddles and cannons. Entrance fee 10pln (about 1.43 sterling)

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by mightywease on June 19, 2004

Wawel Castle Courtyard
Wawel Castle Krakow, Poland 31-001
+48 12 422 5155

St Mary's Church (Kosciol Mariacki)

Attraction | "St. Mary's Church"

The construction of the gothic Kosciol Mariacki was begun in the 13th century. The two towers of unequal height, which gives the church its recognizable profile, were finished at different times. The taller of the two with its fairytale castle crown was completed in 1478 and was the city’s watchtower. This is the tower from which the bugle call (hejnal) is sounded on the hour. The shorter tower was finished in 1548. I am not sure that words can adequately describe the majesty of St. Mary's Church. Indeed, when we visited an awed silence was the first reaction to this glorious building. The towers give the outside of church an idiosyncratic air, this asymmetry prompting feelings of friendliness and comfort. The building looks welcoming. The interior of the church is just amazing. Highly decorated in bright colours: reds, blues, greens and gold. The choir stalls are backed by low-relief carvings of intricate detail. For me the most astonishing part of the church is the High Altar, made by Wit Stwosz between 1477 and 1489. The alter screen is like a large cabinet with huge doors which can be opened out. Both the outside and inside of the alter screen are wonderfully carved and decorated, showing scenes from the lives of Jesus and the Virgin Mary. The figures are lifelike, the detail fantastic and the whole effect vigorous. The huge outer doors are opened at midday so it is worth visiting the church a little before that so you can witness both the outer and inner decoration as well as the ceremony when the doors are open. However, be aware that this is a popular time to visit the church, so it may be busy.. I also particularly like the fact that a separate area is provided for worshippers. I enjoy visiting religious buildings whether they be churches, mosques, synagogues but am often worried that my tourism is distracting for people who have come to worship. Therefore, it was refreshing to see that the feelings of both worshippers and visitors were catered for in a very sympathetic way.

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by mightywease on June 19, 2004

St Mary's Church (Kosciol Mariacki)
Old Town Square Krakow, Poland

Galeria w Sukiennicach (Cloth Hall Gallery)

Attraction | "The Cloth Hall and Cloth Hall Gallery"

The Cloth Hall (Sukiennce) stands proudly in the centre of Rynek Glowny, the medieval market square at the heart of the old city. It is an impressive building and one you will probably find yourself coming back to, whether it is to stroll through its arcades, sit in one of its cafes or walk round and admire its facade.

Construction of the Cloth Hall began in 1344, a covered structure which would augment and provide protection for some of the market stalls which crowded into the square. The building was rebuilt, after suffering damage through fire, in 1555 with further reconstruction in the 19th century.

The long oblong building with its cream and brown stonework, internal and external arcades is still linked to its commercial roots. Walk through the inner arcade and you’ll find stalls selling a variety of souvenirs, from amber jewellery, carved wooden figures of both secular and religious subjects, to lace items and leather bags. It’s a pleasant place to browse for gifts and mementos. If the weather is good, sit outside at one of the tables in the outer arcade and enjoy a coffee or beer as you people-watch the activity in the square. If the weather is bad, sit inside one of the cafes and do the same!

On the outside of the Sukiennce, opposite the EMPiK, is the entrance to the upper storey and the Cloth Hall Gallery. A branch of the National Museum, the Cloth Hall Gallery contains 19th and early 20th century paintings by Polish artists. I would recommend that anyone going to Krakow make time to visit this gallery. It is a little gem!

The gallery itself is fairly small and intimate but the paintings are far from diminutive. Huge canvases such as 'Nero's Torches' by Henryk Siemiradzki and 'Four-in-Hand' by Jozef Chelmonski dominate and impress with their artistry and scope. Historical and romantic subjects are housed alongside symbolist paintings.

The small size of the gallery and the number of paintings displayed means that it doesn't take too long to look round. Though you may find, like we did, that you linger longer in order to sit and stare at every little detail in some of the pictures. For instance the sense of speed and power conveyed by Chelmonski in 'Four-in-Hand' is exhilarating.

The paintings are interesting, effecting and evocative. Of all the wonderful sights in Krakow, the paintings in here left a very vivid impression.

**Please note that the Cloth Hall Gallery is closed for refurbishment till 2009, the bulk of the gallery's collections has been moved to the Niepolomice Castle, about 20km out of Krakow, with some also on show at the National Museum, 1 Al. 3 Maja, in Krakow**

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by mightywease on July 2, 2004

Galeria w Sukiennicach (Cloth Hall Gallery)
Rynek Głowny, 1/3 Krakow, Poland 31-042
+48 12 422 1166

Remuh Cemetery

Attraction | "Remu'h Cemetery"

The Remu'h Cemetery was established in 1533. The adjacent synagogue, Krakow’s only active Orthodox Synagogue, is named after Rabbi Moses Isserles (nicknamed Remu'h, the word his initials spell in Hebrew), whose grave is still in the cemetery and which is a place of pilgrimage for Jewish worshippers. Though damaged the cemetery managed to survive the Nazi occupation when other cemeteries were almost entirely destroyed. Excavations in the past years have revealed many buried gravestones and tombs and although it was suspected that this may have been due to neglect or vandalism it appears that they were deliberately buried to save them from an earlier threat, possibly Swedish invasion in the 19th century. Some of the gravestones are decorated with motifs and topped with metal coverings, of which I sadly do not know the significance. Many have stones or candles placed on them holding pieces of paper on which prayers and blessings are written. Walking round the cemetery I found myself contemplating many things such as the human race’s capacity for inhumanity, for resilience, for fortitude, for kindness, for forgiveness and for reconciliation. I found it a profoundly moving yet peaceful place Please note that visitors may be requested to cover their heads when visiting the cemetery.

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by mightywease on July 2, 2004

Remuh Cemetery
Ulica Szeroka, 40 Krakow, Poland 31-053

Gallery of 20th Century Polish Arts

Attraction

The Gallery of 20th century Polish Art in Krakow's National Museum is a wide-ranging and eclectic exhibition showcasing Polish Artists and the different influences and styles of art that have emerged or been reinterpreted since the beginning of the last century.

The gallery is composed of a series of interconnecting rooms each with a heading such as "Avant Garde", "Colourism", and "This is what Poland is Like" under which the art in that room is grouped. Within some of the rooms are dividers which, I assume, are to allow more space to hang exhibits, but which also provide the viewer with pleasant little nooks and crannies to explore. It also helps to break the galleries into smaller, bite size pieces and avoid the overwhelming sensation that sometimes comes when walking into a huge rectangular room brimming with paintings. Particularly important as this is a large exhibition with a lot to see.

Some of the early 20th century pictures, particularly those of a Romantic, Symbolic and Impressionist nature, have one foot in the 19th century and it is interesting to compare these with the paintings held at the Gallery of 19th Century Polish Art in the Sukiennice. Indeed the artist Jacek Malczewski has pieces in both galleries. However, there is also a large body of work covering such styles as Cubism and Modernism as well as art forms such as Animation, Graphic Art, and on video Performances Art.

As well as Malczewskis? wonderful symbolist - and other - paintings there are also works by Wyspianski, the designs for stained glass to be used in Krakow Cathedral are amazing, Tadeusz Makowski - we particularly .liked his "The Musicians" - and the very evocative and effecting "Execution" by Andrzej Wroblewski.

It is a fascinating exhibition, provocative and challenging at times, very traditional at others. With so much on shown in terms of both the number of exhibits and the different art styles and forms, one which appeals to a broad range of tastes.

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by mightywease on July 2, 2006

Gallery of 20th Century Polish Arts
National Museum Krakow, Poland

Rynek Glowny (Market Square)

Attraction

The Market Square in Krakow is the heart of the city—both physically and figuratively—in so many ways.

Situated almost at the centre of the Old Quarter roads branch off into other areas of the city making it a good starting point to explore. In the summer, tables spread out from the cafes which surround the square turning it into an outdoor bar, towards the end of the year a Christmas Market brings stalls selling gifts, decorations, and hot wine to cut through the cold evenings.

It’s a thoroughfare, meeting place, promenade, and—as we saw the last time we were there—even a racetrack for local school children.
At 656 feet square the Rynek Glowney is the largest town square in Europe. Surrounded by the colourful facades of merchant’s houses and palaces—with fantastic names such as “Under the Lizards” and “Palace of the Rams”—the square also encloses the wonderful Cloth Hall, St. Mary’s Church, and the Town Hall Tower, all that is left of the Old Town Hall.

You’ll probably find yourself returning again and again to the Market Square either to sit and watch the world go by in one of its restaurants and bars, to admire its buildings and the wonderful architecture it contains or stretch your legs with a walk around its perimeter. Or maybe the city will simply draw you back to its vibrant, bustling, and magnificent heart!

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by mightywease on July 2, 2006

Rynek Glowny (Market Square)
At the center of the old town Krakow, Poland

Pomnik Grunwaldzki (Grunwald Monument)

Attraction | "Wyspianski Monument"

This monument to the great Polish playwright and artist Stanislaw Wyspianski shows him surrounded by characters from two of his plays.

Apparently there was a lot of criticism of the monument when it was first unveiled. Not being familiar with any of Wyspianski's plays I don't know whether the criticism was levelled at the way the characters have been represented or the style of the sculpture. Coming to it from a complete uninformed viewpoint I rather liked the solid, stoic characteristics of the figures.

The location, however, is pretty terrible. Outside the National Museum is fine but at the end of the car park outside the National Museum isn't! It simply doesn't do it any justice; it gives the monument a rather sorry aspect as it stares forlornly over the roofs of cars. Such a shame as I think it's a great piece of art that is being rather undermined by its surroundings.

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by mightywease on July 2, 2006

Pomnik Grunwaldzki (Grunwald Monument)
Plac Matejki Krakow, Poland 31-157

Rynek Glowny (Market Square)

Attraction

Krakow is a wonderful place to visit at any time of the year but being there just before Christmas was very special.

On one side of Rynek Glowny was a Christmas Market with stalls selling gifts, cards, and lovely wickerwork Christmas decorations. Entertainment came in the form of choirs and groups of musicians performing traditional songs and carols on a small stage set up near the centre of the market.

To warm yourself up there are stalls selling hot wine and, for the hungry meat eaters among you, huge pork knuckles and sausages which when combined with some bread and mustard, were—according to my carnivorous husband—“champion”!

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by mightywease on July 2, 2006

Rynek Glowny (Market Square)
At the center of the old town Krakow, Poland

Wodka

Attraction

As the name of this cafe bar suggests it specialises in Vodka. Or, as the proprietors put it on their business card - "We just like vodka". We do indeed and, at Wodka you can sample various makes, flavours and types. So much so that I should try and ensure that your hotel is not too far away as you may find that walking in a straight line is rather more difficult after you leave than when you went in.

It's a small bar with whitewashed walls, decorated by a few black and white pictures, a couple of tables down stairs and a few more upstairs, where you'll also find the space-capsule like toilet.

The staff are young, friendly and helpful. Ask them to recommend a type of vodka, maybe by flavour or sweetness and they'll be happy to do so. On our last visit the barman poured us his favourite -Soplica Gorzka - as they say in Yorkshire "By Gum, that'll put hairs on your chest". Roughly translated that means it was very strong and very, very good (we have a small bottle in our freezer)

As it is only a hop, skip and stagger from where we were staying in Krakow Wodka became our favoured spot for a nightcap .. or two!

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by mightywease on July 30, 2006

Wodka
Mikolajska 5 Krakow, Poland

Wawel Cathedral

Attraction | "Wawel Cathedral, The"

The Cathedral of St. Stanislaw was built between 1320 and 1364, on the site of two earlier churches, however, over the years various additions mean that the cathedral retains elements of Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and style.

Before entering the cathedral walk across to the far side of Wawel Hill from where the view of the building, with its spires, towers and domes has a fairytale aspect. Move closer and the external decoration shows status and ornamental guttering. Just outside the entrance hang the bones of a "ancient creature" which if they fall, according to legend, will presage the end of the world.

Inside the cathedral is quite small and intimate, the side chapels are beautifully decorated, especially the detailed Zygmunt Chapel. The choir stalls are intricately carved as is the Tomb of Kazimierz, created by Veit Stoss who also sculptured and carved the high alter in St. Mary’s Church, Krakow. The impressive reliquary containing relics of St. Stainslaw is also beautifully worked in silver.

Even after the capital had been moved to Warsaw Polish King’s continued to be crowned, and interred, in the cathedral. Amonst these are the Baroque styled tombs of Jan III Sobieski and his wife and the tomb of King Jan Olbracht which sits in an arch modelled on al Roman theme.

It is possible to walk up one of the towers to see the Zygmunt Bell, weighing 11 tonnes, the largest bell in Poland. However the route up the towers involves climbing steep wooden staircases and, at times, bending below head height so it may not be suitable for all.

The cathedral is an extremely attractive building, both inside and out, and its size makes it very accessible, giving it a private but embracing feel.

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by mightywease on August 3, 2006

Wawel Cathedral
Wawel, 3 Krakow, Poland 31-001
+48 12 422 2643

U Kacpra

Attraction

If you like your beer cold and your music rocking then U Kacpra at ul. Slawkowska 2 is the place to be.

It’s a fantastic, dark, vaulted cellar bar with brick walls, low lighting, wooden benches, stools and tables, and a pounding soundtrack of AC/DC, Nightwing, and others. Sit on the raised platform at the back—probably called a mezzanine in chicer places but you don’t go to U Kacpra for chic!—and you have a fantastic view over the often crowded floor below. Sit by the bar and you are truly in the thick of things and never much more than a nod away from your next Zywiec or vodka.

The atmosphere is great and the crowd comprises a good mix of locals and visitors of varied ages. At weekends it can get very busy so either get there early and bag a table or arrive late and be prepared to stand—whichever it is, it's well worth a visit. Forget chic, go for rock!

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by mightywease on February 6, 2007

U Kacpra
ulica Sławkowska 2 Krakow, Poland 31-014
+48 12 421 8826

Czartoryski Museum

Attraction

The Czartoryski Museum is an eclectic and interesting collection of artwork and curios begun by Princess Isabella Czartoryski in 1800 and continued by her descendants. Originally situated in the Polish town of Pulawy the collection was brought to Krakow in the early 1870s where is has remained since except for the disruption and removal of various pieces during the First and Second World Wars.

The archaeology gallery contains an impressive selection of classical statuary, sarcophagi and - always a source of fascination - mummies including mummified cats and birds. There is also an exhibition of weaponry and armour, much of it Turkish captured after the Battle of Vienna on 1683.

For many, though, it is the art gallery on the second floor which is the main attraction of the museum. The Dutch paintings are especially interesting and include Rembrandt’s “Landscape with the Good Samaritan” however the highlight is probably Leonardo Da Vinci’s sublime “Lady With an Ermine.” Thought to be a representation of the mistress of Duke Lodovico Sforza of Milan the painting, c.1482, is wonderfully executed and with that air of mystery that imbues many of Da Vinci’s portraits.

The Czartoryski is a fascinating museum and the diversity of the exhibits, almost as if they were assembled by reason of the simple fancy of the buyer rather than a strict adherence to a theme, gives it a relaxed, endearingly chaotic nature like the display cabinet of a well travelled aunt.

Most of the exhibits are labelled in Polish and English and there is also a guide book available but with some rooms closed it was at times difficult to get ones bearings. For opening times – which do vary - visit the website http://www.muzeum-czartoryskich.krakow.pl/prawe/muzeumf.htm. The site is in Polish but ticket prices and opening times are fairly self-explanatory.

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by mightywease on February 17, 2007

Czartoryski Museum
Ulica sw. Jana, 19 Krakow, Poland 31-017
+48 12 422 5566

Ethnographical Museum

Attraction

The Ethnographical Museum, situated in the Old Town Hall of Kazimierz, is an interesting look at traditional life, folklore and customs in Poland especially during the 19th and 20th Century.

The ground floor includes detailed reconstructions of peasant cottages with traditional furniture, painted ceilings and large stoves – behind which was often a sleeping place for the young or old of the house. Inside these are displays of traditional cooking implements and house wares, including bridal chests, and tools relating to traditional crafts such as a spinning and weaving. The rooms are colourful – incorporating a lot of flower motifs – and give a good impression of what it must have been like to live in the cramped but homely environment.

On the upper floors are exhibitions relating to elements of rural life such as fishing, hunting, cheese-making and bee-keeping illustrated by the use of objects and photographs. There is a lovely display of traditional Polish costumes from around the country, woollen trousers for men decorated at the waist and bottom, blouses, bodices, decorated skirts, and lace coverings for the women.

Folklore is also explored in the rituals, objects and costumes associated with various festivals and celebrations some of which, such as Christmas Carollers, Painted Easter Eggs and wonderful Nativity Cribs are still current.

Not all the exhibits are labelled in English but there are laminated information sheets in each room which explain the themes explored on the displays. Also the guide book, available to buy at the information desk, is full of helpful and interesting detail.

The Ethnographical Museum is a fascinating place and gives the visor a flavour of what rural like was, and to a certain extent still is like, in Poland while exploring the country’s rich folklore and cultural traditions. Recommended.

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by mightywease on March 21, 2007

Ethnographical Museum
Plac Wolnica, 1 Krakow, Poland 31-160
+48 12 430 5563

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Krakow - History, Culture and Legends

Krakow - History, Culture and Legends

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Hotel Wit Stwosz

Szara Resto & Bar

Farina Restaurant

Pod Aniolami

Hawelka

Restauracja Balaton

Restauracja Kawaleria

Chlopskie Jadlo

Wawel Castle Courtyard

St Mary's Church (Kosciol Mariacki)

Galeria w Sukiennicach (Cloth Hall Gallery)

Remuh Cemetery

Gallery of 20th Century Polish Arts

Rynek Glowny (Market Square)

Pomnik Grunwaldzki (Grunwald Monument)

Rynek Glowny (Market Square)

Wodka

Wawel Cathedral

U Kacpra

Czartoryski Museum

Ethnographical Museum

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