Loose in Tripolitania, Libya

Tripoli: Medina, Castle, modern town - Leptis Magna - Sabratha - Gharyan - Ghadames ... archaeological sites, public cafes, mosques, madrasas, hammam(s), camel rides and much much more.

There is lots to do for the enterprising traveler, who is not afraid to get off the beaten track.

Quick Tips:

The people are very friendly and will go out of their way to help you. English is quite widely spoken among the younger generation and Italian by the older, but a small amount of Arabic really does go a long way towards establishing friendly relations, and a simple phrase book is all you need.

Best Way To Get Around:

Shared taxis are the cheapest option for the traveler with a restricted budget. They are perfectly safe for males, even if travelling alone ... ('m not sure about the wisdom of females travelling alone here anyway) ... The shared taxi will take you almost anywhere - if you are not in a great hurry. On the plus side, you have plenty of time to socialise with your fellow travelers, who will give you good travelling advice. To get the best value, ALWAYS buy the ticket from the driver yourself and not through an intermediary - who will get a commission for his trouble! Because of the great heat, it is best to travel at night but be prepared for a long ride in a smoke filled vehicle and loud entertainement. Still one can learn to sleep even in such unpromising conditions.

Situated at the node between Libya, Tunisia and Algeria, the city of Ghadames has long been a resting place for desert caravans and a trading post. To overcome the high temperatures, the city's streets are roofed over. Although there are light wells every few meters to allow diffuse sunlight to enter, one quickly gets lost in the maze of streets because there is nothing to help the traveler with orientation.

Now largely uninhabited, about a dozen houses are open to visitors. There are also a few shops and mosques to visit (just before prayers is the best time). The houses are made of sun-dried brick, white washed and beautifully decorated on the inside. The walls of the principal visitor's room of the house -- majlis -- are generally covered with ornaments. The interconnected roofs are a curious feature of the city. This enabled the women of the city to meet and visit each other without actually 'leaving' their house. The men went about their business in the lower part of the dwellings and the streets.

Around the city are innumerable palm trees and a spectacular cemetery.

This incredible city has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO -- and with good reason, DON'T MISS IT!

Getting to the city of Gharyan from Tipoli is itself an adventure, offering spectacular views once you climb the 'jabal'.

The city itself is nothing to write home about until you ask to see a traditional house. You are taken to what looks like a small shed, which encloses a staircase that takes you down about two floors. At the bottom of the stairs is a corridor leading to an open light-well, which serves as the courtyard of this sunken house. All around this courtyard one finds the rooms of the house which are excavated in the live rock.

The whole point of this type of dwelling is to beat the heat and indeed the rooms are very comfortable. There is an upper layer of rooms which serve as storage spaces.

At the end of the visit be sure to tip your guide and then, perhaps, join him for a glass of mint tea at the local cafe.

These houses are similar to the ones found at Matmata (Tunisia) - and they are certainly worth a visit.