Istanbul - Minarets and Magic

There are a lot of places to visit in Istanbul, and one of the greatest pleasures is simply walking through the streets between those places; however, here is my Top Ten Must See Sights (in no particular order of preference):

TOPKAPI PALACE -- Serene gardens, exquisitely decorated pavilions and the intriguing Harem.

THE BLUE MOSQUE -- Beautiful artistry of construction and decoration, both inside and out.

HAGIA SOPHIA -- A magnificent feat of architecture, with a dome that seems to float in the air above the interior space.

BASILICA CISTERN (Yerebatan Sarayi) -- Eerie, haunting, unusual, fascinating.

SULEYMANIYE MOSQUE -- Calm, peaceful and harmonious, with fine masonry and decoration.

GRAND BAZAAR -- Bustling, energetic, noisy and great, great fun.

BOSPHORUS CRUISE -- Watch minarets, mosques, yalis and villages slide past.

THE HIPPODROME -- Marvel at the obelisks and imagine the chariots racing around this oval in front of cheering crowds.

ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM -- Wonderful statues and mosaics, plus the amazing Alexander Sarcophagus.

MUSEUM OF TURKISH AND ISLAMIC ARTS - a fascinating history of the development of art techniques and styles including wonderful calligraphy plus kilms and carpets.

KRIYE CAMII MUSEUM (ST. SAVIOUR IN CHORA) - amazing Byzantine mosaics, detailed and beautiful.

GALATA TOWER -- Fantastic views over the Bosphorus, the city, and beyond.

Quick Tips:

Istanbul is a fantastic place and everyone I met was polite, courteous and friendly, but, especially if a single female traveller, you may find you get a lot of attention.

In my experience, most of it was friendly -invitations to visit shops, asking if you wanted a guide etc.. If you aren't interested, just politely decline. Don't get angry or be rude. Dress appropriately and respect the customs and conventions of the country you are in. What might not stand out on Oxford Street may stand out in Sultanahmet. Walk purposefully and at night stick to main, well-lit roads. Advice that pertains to a lot of places, not just Istanbul.

You will get stared at, but just ignore it. If things do go further, a loud and firm "No" or "Don't do that please." usually works. Be careful, be aware, but don't let it stop you from having a good time.

A Short History:

The city of Byzantion was founded, reputedly, in 667 BC by King Byzas and soon grew to be a successful city state. In 64BC it became part of the Roman Empire and was re-named Byzantium.

When Contsantine became ruler of the Roman Empire in AD 324 he moved the capital of the Empire to Byzantium which soon became known as Constantinople. Over the next thousand years Constantinople was the centre of the Byzantine Empire and prided itself on its art and culture. It was also during this time that some of the most remarkable architectural sites in the city were built including Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern and the Hippodrome.

On 29th May 1453, after a 54 day siege, Sultan Mehmet II entered Constantinople. The city was re-named Istanbul and the reign of the Ottoman Sultan's began. In 1479 Topkapi Palace was completed. During the reign of Suleyman the Magnificent (1520-66) the royal architect Sinan designed over 200 mosques and other buildings.

During the tulip period of Sultan Ahmet III (1703-30) western clothes became fashionable for the first time.

After the massacre of the janissaries (the Sultan's personal guard and elite fighting force) in 1826 reforms to government and society were instituted.

After the First World War the Ottoman Empire was in serious decline. The Turkish War of Independence began in 1920 and in 1922 the Sultanate was abolished. The following year Turkey was declared a secular republic and Mustafa Kemal Pasa ("Ataturk") became President.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking -- Choose a district, arm yourself with a good map and set off!

 

The tram system around Sultanahmet is very good.

Taxis are very cheap by British standards. They are really useful if you get hopelessly lost and your legs are too tired to take you any further!

Now there are low-cost flights to Istanbul more people seem to be flying into Sabiha Gocken Airport. Information on how to get from the airport into Istanbul seemed a little sketchy and, when we arrived, a lot of the things we'd read as suggestions i.e. getting a bus to the ferry terminal, seemed not to be feasible. So here is my suggestions based on our experience in October 2006

I'd suggest taking the Havas Bus to Taksim - there should be one outside the terminal as their departure times tend to coincide with flights - you may have to wait for a little while on the bus before it departs - tickets cost approx. 8 YTL for the journey, pay the representative on board

From Taksim either walk or get a taxi to your hotel if in the Taksim area. Uou can also take a taxi to Sultanahmet - it should cost about 10-15 YTL, however, the more fun and cheaper option is below!

If you are staying in Sultanahmet or surrounding area then walk to Taksim Square then take the Funicular (look for the big M sign signalling the Metro/Funicular)to Kabatas (1.3 YTL per token which can be bought inside the Metro/Funicular station). Kabatas is where the tram terminates so - for another 1.3 YTL token, which can be bought from the booth marked jeton, you can take the tram all the way to Sultanahmet and from there walk to your hotel.

Other options from the airport seemed limited (apart from taxi, which at 90-100 YTL is rather expensive) - we tried to get a bus to take us to one of the ferry terminal so we could get the boat across to Eminonu but couldn't find one

Boat -- along the Bosphorus or over to the Asian side, taking a boat is a trip in itself.

This hotel is in a great location, virtually on the corner of the Hippodrome, about a 2 minute stroll from the Blue Mosque, 5 minutes from Aya Sofya, and 10 minutes from Topkapi. It is a budget hotel, so don't expect luxury. However, what you do get is a small, charming, and welcoming hotel. The rooms are fairly basic, not huge, but clean and comfortable. They are all en-suite and have a TV and a fridge. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable and the atmosphere relaxing. There is a small bar in the foyer area where, on my first visit to Istanbul, I spent several lovely evenings chatting with the reception and bar staff about anything we could think of! Internet access is free to guests staying in the hotel. We booked over the Internet (www.hotelspectra.com) and received a free transfer to and from the Airport and a 10% discount for cash (dollars). Having stayed there twice I would definately recommend it, particularly to anyone on a budget. The views from the roof, where breakfast is served, are fantastic. Sitting by the window with a plate of olives, cheese, jam and bread overlooking the Blue Mosque and the Bosphorus was magical!

This lovely hotel is in a perfect position for exploring the sites of Sultanahmet and Istanbul being a short walk from the Blue Mosque and the Hippodrome and a slightly longer stroll to Sultanahmet tram stop.

The hotel is attractively furnished and being a converted Ottoman house includes traditional Turkish elements and decoration. We had a room on the first landing quite close to the lobby, I have read some criticism from other reviewers that these rooms are rather noisy, however, the combination of long days of walking, a filling Turkish meal and a couple of glasses of Efes meant that we slept like the proverbial logs and hardly noticed any noise. The room was small but comfortable and adequate for two. To be picky I would have perhaps preferred a  bit more storage space for clothes and the wardrobe was a rather close to the bed making it difficult to open the doors fully (the solution was to sit on the bead and open it) but those are really very minor criticisms and were more than outweighed by the other advantages the hotel offers.

All the staff we dealt with were exemplary, particularly at breakfast, we were made to feel very welcome and that, had we wished, they would have been more than happy to advise re: sightseeing, restaurants, etc. Breakfast itself was an absolute pleasure, homemade cake and preserves, olives, meats, fruit cereals, and the most delicious creamy white cheese.

For me the highlight of the hotel was the roof terrace with its wonderful views over the rooftops to the Sea of Marmara one way and through the tress to the Blue Mosque the other. We tried to spend at least half an hour there every day, often late afternoon/early evening, to watch the lights go on across the water on the Asian side of the city. Caught there for a couple of hours one day by a horrendous rain storm we sat listening to the rain strike the roof, the distant puttering of boats and then the intermingling calls to prayer from the surrounding mosques. It was a wonderful experience and more than made up for not being able to spend that time exploring the city.

The hotel is also close to a number of good restaurants, Albura and Balicki Sabhattin in particular, and the Just Bar on Akbiyik Cadessi is a great place for a drink.

Situated in a peaceful, quiet courtyard very close to Divan Yolu, Yerebatan, Sarayi, and Aya Sofya, this is a perfect place to stop for lunch or a drink. The medresseh itself (medresseh means school) houses workshops and exhibition rooms highlighting traditional Turkish crafts such as calligraphy, ceramics, jewelry, etc. which you can look round either before or after your meal. The food was well-prepared and very tasty and our kick-boxing, friendly and attentive waiter was great!The menu reflects more of a cafe than a restaurant feel. We had lamb meatballs with chilli and spaghetti, a delicious dish of scrambled eggs with tomatos and chilli plus bread and a diet coke each. The total cost for both of us was 13,000,000TL (around £6.00) Sitting in the tranquil courtyard it was gard to imagine the hustle and bustle of the city taking place just minutes away.

Cennet is a small, traditional (although in a touristy way) Turkish restaurant on Divan Yolu, very near Cemberlitas. Their menu consists of dishes such as mixed appetizers (stuffed vine leaves, aubergine salad, tomato and chilli sauce), kebabs, and gozleme (filled pancake).

The food is prepared upstairs and lowered down from a gallery on the top floor, except for the bread and gozelme, which is prepared by a number of women in the middle of the restaurant. There are tables and chairs but its much more fun to sit on cushions on the floor, stretch out your legs, and eat your food from the low tables.

The atmosphere is relaxed and pleasant, the staff friendly and eager to help, the food solid, tasty fare, and the cost fantastic. I’d recommend it as a place for a cheap lunch.

Yes, like I said before, it is touristy and you may be made to wear colourful turbans and have your picture taken, but it’s still enjoyable.

Try a mixed starter, a wonderful assortment of tastes like tomato, aubergine, chili, and more that you can mop up with satisfyingly warm and doughy bread. Delicious. For a kebab, a potato pancake, and drinks we paid 20,000,000 Turkish lira (about 8,60 sterling at the then exchange rate) between us. What a bargain!

Hours: 8am - 11pm daily

Tucked in a busy street of bars, restaurants, hotels and hostels Albura offers a large selection of Turkish and International dishes at very reasonable prices.

Wooden floors and ceiling are offset by orange/ochre walls and exposed brickwork, the walls also decorated by interesting metal lamp fittings. Seating is on iron or wooden chairs and some very comfortable leather banquettes.

The menu is extensive with traditional Turkish dishes – such as mixed meze, kebabs and fresh fish – on offer next to wider ranging fare such as crepes, salads and pasta. There are also a number of vegetarian options.

The food was well cooked and very tasty, more along the lines ‘comfort food’ than modern or fusion cuisine but nothing wrong with that, as attested by a number of people in the restaurant who were visiting for a second time. Indeed had we not wished to sample as many restaurants as we could we may have returned as there was a number of different things on the menu I would like to have tried. We had a couple of criticisms, the salad we ordered had a bit too many pickled/bottled vegetables, making it rather less fresh and more bland then I would have liked, and the baked potato accompaniment with one of the dishes was slightly cold, however, these are really minor caveats and didn’t effect our overall enjoyment of the meal.

Combine all the above with friendly staff and a price tag for two starters, two main courses, a dessert, two beers and a coffee of 83 YTL (approx. £34.00) and you’ve got a good evening out.

We had

Mixed Turkish Meze – good range of flavours, especially the stuffed vine leaves and aubergine salad all very moorish
Calamari with tarter sauce – testy and plentiful

Ravan Kebab – four dumpling-like parcels of deliciously spiced meat served with Mediterranean veg and a baked potato (a little on the cold side). Filling and comforting
Spinach and Vegetable Crepe – well cooked with a nice variety of vegetables and flavours
Green Salad with Walnuts and Turkish Cheese – nice but quite a lot of pickled/canned vegetables

Brownie Lover – two pieces of Brownie sandwiched together with sorbet, covered in chocolate sauce and cream – delicious and stodgy in the best possible way, making you smile inside and out as you eat it

Walking into Balicki Sabahatin is a little like walking into a favourites Aunt’s front parlour – white linen tablecloths, white lacy coverings at the window, cream and sea-green walls with a few pictures - all neat, tidy but not off putting.

The restaurant specialises in fish and seafood, there isn’t a menu as such – although I believe you may be able to ask for one which includes hot starters – after showing you to your seat and taking an order for drinks (raki is a good accompaniment though we went for beer, they do have a wine list but we found it a little on the expensive side) a waiter will present a tray of mezes from which you make your choice. These includes salads, marinated fish – the sea bass was delicious – mussels and rice (a speciality of the restaurant, a great mix of testures and flavours) dips etc... If you are unsure what to have – and there is a wide choice – ask the, very helpful, waiting staff for their recommendations.

A little later, while enjoying your choice of meze, a waiter will bring a platter of fresh fish of the day from which you select your main courses, again if you are unsure - or indeed you need some pointers, as we did, to what fish is which - ask for a recommendation. Once your choice is made sit back, relax, finish your meze and wait for the fish fest to arrive!

The fish is either grilled or fried (we went for red mullet and swordfish kebab) and simply presented with a small garnish of tomato, a slice of potato and a slice of mooli – the latter three acting more as palate cleansers than an accompaniment. Not that you need any accompaniment, the freshness and taste of the fish is what’s important and all you really need.

After that you may not feel the need for dessert but, if you do, there is a small but tasty selection of cakes and other traditional desserts.

Round this of with Turkish coffee and maybe even a liqueur and you have a great dining experience. In summer you should also be able to take advantage of the outside tables. Reservations are recommended, we went mid-week and it was pretty busy then.

We had:

Courgette garlic and yoghurt dip – lovely subtle flavours, very refreshing
Marinated strips of Sea Bass – absolutely gorgeous – couldn’t get enough of it
Rice with mussels - a speciality of the restaurant, lovely combination of texture and taste
Olives - complimentary – a nice touch

Red Mullet (fried) – subtle yet distinctive taste, very well cooked
Swordfish Kebab – strong, meaty texture and taste, again very well cooked

Honey Cake – lovely and sweet without being sickly, the honey seeps seductively onto your tongue

2 beers and some water, Turkish coffee and a complimentary cherry liquor

110 YTL (inc. tip) approx. £39/$76.00

The Suleymaniye Mosque, built between 1550 and 1557, was founded by Suleyman the Magnificent and designed by the master architect Sinan. The age of Suleyman the Magnificient was a golden one for the Ottoman Empire. The empire itself stretched over parts of Western Europe, Asia and Africa, arts and culture flourished in Istanbul as did architecture which, perhaps, reached it’s peak in the Mosque that bears Suleyman’s name. As well as being a place of worship the Mosque complex was also a community centre including a hospital, soup kitchen, school and bath house plus a welfare system that tended to the needs of the poor of the city. It was estimated that each day the Mosque complex fed over 1000 of the poorest citizens, regardless of their religion. Although you can’t really say that such a large building is ‘hidden’ in the warren of streets that is that part of Istanbul we had quite a hard time finding it! Or at least the entrance to it! Not that a wander through the streets of Istanbul was un-pleasant, quite the opposite, but I would recommend getting a good street map and someone, who unlike me, can map read properly!

The complex is very worthy of the name magnificent. The gardens surrounding the mosque are peaceful and a good place to wander and admire the exterior of the building. In its shape it is reminiscent of Aya Sofia, that being an inspiration for the architect Sinan. High arches topped with domes surround the large courtyard and four slender minarets mark the corners. These reputedly represent the fact that Suleyman was the fourth Ottoman ruler of Istanbul.

The spacious, tranquil interior is not as highly decorated as the Blue Mosque but is equally as impressive with its fine masonry, decorated dome and intricate calligraphy. The tombs of Suleyman and his wife Roxelana, next to the Mosque, are also worth visiting. Ceramic stars are set into the ceiling overlooking the coffins of Suleyman, his daughter and two of his successors and both tombs are decorated with Iznik tiles. As with all mosques, visitors should dress modestly (no shorts or short skirts) and women should cover their shoulders and head. You will be asked to take your shoes of before entering the Mosque. There is no set entrance fee but please give a donation.

The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii) was built for Sultan Ahmet I between 1609 and 1616, a time of declining fortunes in the Ottoman Empire, by the imperial architect Mehmet Aga, a pupil of the renowned architect Sinan. The name "Blue Mosque" comes from the blue Iznik tiles which form part of the decoration in the Mosque’s interior

A good starting point for a visit to the Mosque is to walk round the exterior to get a good view of the external architecture. The six minarets were considered somewhat scandalous the time the Mosque was built, six minarets being seen as an attempt to rival Mecca.

The way the domes seem to sit on top of each other and the balancing effects of three minarets, one on each corner of the complex and two at the centre of each of the longer sides, gives the exterior a harmonious air. Looking through the entrance to the Mosque complex from the Hippodrome there is wonderful view of the domes, framed by the archway of the entrance, cascading towards the courtyard. Please note, however, that this entrance is closed to the general public and only open to worshippers. Therefore care and respect should be shown when viewing this.

As you approach the Mosque, you notice the stone seats and taps where worshipers perform their ritual ablutions before prayer. In the courtyard there is also a small and attractive ablutions fountain. The courtyard itself covers the same area as the floor of the prayer hall giving a sense of equilibrium and balance. Standing in the courtyard and allowing your eyes to wander up one of the minarets really does raise your view to the heavens.

The inside of the mosque is spacious and peaceful; though I would imagine that the latter depends on the time you visit. Huge intricate chandeliers hang a few feet above your head, the blues reds and gold’s of the decoration draw your eye which, as with the minarets, will lead you to look upward towards the painted interior of the dome and semi-domes.

It is a truly wonderful building, serene and majestic. The aesthetic of the interior and exterior is beautiful and harmonious and the expression of faith contained in the building is quite humbling.

During the summer months there is a very interesting Son et Lumiere show just after dusk, which includes an imagined talk between the architect Mehmet Aga and his mentor Sinan.

It is probably best to visit the Mosque in the morning soon after it opens to the public (about 9.15/9.30am) and before it gets too busy. Visitors should dress modestly i.e. long trousers or skirts, no shorts, women should cover bare shoulders and also make sure they have a headscarf to cover their heads. You will be asked to take off your shows and carry them with you (a plastic bag is provided). There is no set charge to visit the Mosque but a donation is requested.

Hagia or Aya Sophia (Church of the Divine Wisdom) was inaugurated in 537 by Emperor Justinian. It has been a church, a mosque and is now a museum, it has provided inspiration for architects, it has survived earthquakes and periods of unrest and still remains, after nearly 1500 years, a source of awe and wonder to all who see it. The exterior of the building with its somewhat patchy reddish-pink colouring is a bit of a hybrid. Buttresses have been added to support the weight of the dome and minarets were built when the building became a Mosque. I wouldn’t say that it was a graceful exterior but it is certainly impressive.When you first enter the building it may take a while for your eyes to adjust to the muted light of the interior. In front of you is the Imperial Gate, once the exclusive entrance for the Emperor and his entourage. Now the privilege of stepping through the doorway is open to all. And what a privilege! As you enter the nave the first thing to strike you is its sheer size and scale (the dome reaches a height of 54m, 187 ft). It is worth letting your eyes wander up the walls past the half domes and on to the apex of the main dome which seems to float, as if suspended in the air, above the interior space. You may spend so much time staring upwards that you’ll need a neck massage afterwards! The subdued light falling on the remains of the gold decoration imbues the interior with an almost honey-coloured hue. Admittedly the large block of scaffolding reaching up to the dome is rather incongruous but it is amazing how easy it is to ignore, as there is so much else to see. Take time to walk around looking at the Minbar installed in the 16th Century, the Sultan’s Loge installed in the 19th Century and the so-called sweating column (not sure why it’s called that and not sure I want to know!), which is reputed to have healing powers. A ramp leads up to the gallery where there are the remains of some beautiful mosaics and imagine how the walls would have looked when similar mosaics covered more of them. You can also take a closer look at the 8 huge wooden plaques with calligraphic inscriptions that hang over the nave. The view across the nave itself and the upper walls and dome is fantastic. Before leaving take a look at the mosaic near the exit. This shows the Emperor Constantine and the Emperor Justinian presenting, respectively, Constantinople and Aya Sofia to the Virgin Mary. Just outside the exit is an exquisite ablutions fountain. Visiting Aya Sophia is a truly awe-inspiring experience. To stand in the nave and imagine the thousands of people who have visited, admired and, of course, worshipped there promotes an encouraging sense of community and continuityOpening Hours: 9.15am-4.30pm closed Mondays
Cost: approx. 8,000,000 Turkish Lira per person

The Topkapi Palace is, I think, one of the highlights of a visit to Istanbul. Built between 1459 and 1465 it is not the traditional royal palace building I was expecting but a series of pavilions and kiosks placed in four large courtyards and surrounded by beautiful gardens.

I’d suggest starting a tour of the palace with the Harem (see separate tip) partly because tickets are limited so it is best to book into a tour straight away but also because it allows a ‘private’ view of the day to day workings of the palace as opposed to the more public and ceremonial areas in the first two courtyards.

Then start to explore the courtyards and pavilions. In the second courtyard, near to the entrance to the Harem, is the Imperial Council Chamber wonderfully decorated with beautiful calligraphy, tiling and wall paintings. In the chamber is the Divan (indeed Divan is the name often given to this room) upon which the Grand Vizier would sit to preside over meetings. Nearby, on the wall, is a metal grille through which the Sultan himself would watch, seeing but not being seen. Also in the second courtyard are the old kitchens with their huge doomed roofs and distinctive chimneys, they now contain a collection of porcelain, silver, ceramics and celadon – the latter prized because it supposedly neutralised any poison in food. A useful tool for a Sultan fearing he may be overthrown. Housed in the old State Treasury is a collection of arms and armour including some formidable looking swords – some of which belonged to individual Sultans - huge muskets, maces and a particularly fierce looking shield with spikes on it.

In the third courtyard are the Treasury (see separate tip) and Pavilion of the Holy Mantle. The latter contains some of Islam’s most holy relics including the mantle of the Prophet Mohammed, hairs from the Prophets beard, an impression of his footprint and a letter written by him. It is a place of pilgrimage with verses from the Koran being constantly chanted. Visitors are asked to respect this and speak and act quietly when visiting.

The Fourth courtyard contains a series of beautifully decorated pavilions including the Baghdad Pavilion, decorated with blue and white tiles, and the gold canopy of the Iftariye Pavilion from where there are wonderful views over the Golden Horn. Indeed the views from the fourth courtyard over the Golden Horn, Bosphorus and the Sea of Mamara are quite stunning.

Walking round Topkapi Palace is a serene experience, even when busy it retains an air of stillness and tranquillity. There are many small alleys and walkways where you can find a quiet place to yourself or simply sit in one of the small gardens observing the traffic of people. You may just find the atmosphere starts to work on you to create a soothing sense of inner calm that stays with you after you’ve walked out through the palace gates and back into the bustle of Sultanahmet.

Constantine the Great reputedly built the original cistern on this site, with the current one being enlarged and rebuilt by Justinian in 532. It was known as the Basilica Cistern after the Stoa Basilica, which used to stand above it. The cistern provided the water for the Great Palace situated across the Hippodrome. For many years after the Ottoman conquest knowledge of the cistern was lost. However stories of how local people were able to draw water, and even fish, from wells in their basements led to its rediscovery. Walking down the steps from the unassuming entrance on Yerebatan Caddesi into the dim and shadowy interior the first impression is one of wonder and slight disbelief. It is hard to imagine that such a place can exist below the busy streets of Istanbul. It is also amazing that this engineering feat was, like Aya Sofia, built nearly 1500 years ago. Indeed it is like a church or cathedral in its sense of space, quiet and stillness. Indeed, both times I have visited, most people seemed to instinctively adopt hushed, whispered tones to reflect this stillness. The columns – approximately 360 of them, though some are hidden behind a 19th century brick wall – stretch away from you into the gloom and upwards towards the arched roof. The bases lay in water and as you make your way round the wooden walkways above this underground lake the sound of dripping water mingling with the strains of classical music lends a fantastical and eerie, but not unpleasant, air to your surroundings. Don't miss the Weeping Column, with its carvings and the Medussa Head column bases (thought to mark a shrine to water nymphs). Also be aware of the use of light, particularly where a sequence of colours is used to illuminate a succession of columns. Of all the sites in Istanbul this is one of the most unusual and memorable. As my husband kept commenting "I have never, never seen anything like it!" There is a small coffee bar in the cistern. Opening hours are 9am-5pm daily.

The Galata Tower in Beyoglu was built in 1348 as part of the Geonese Fortifications. It has been used as a watchtower and observatory and is now a tourist attraction with a nightclub and restaurant on the top two floors.

Having seen it stand out as one of the defining images of the Galata skyline it was great to go up it and see the wonderful vista of the city spread beneath and around us.

A lift then a short flight of stairs takes you to the Observation deck with its fantastic views. Look out towards the Bosphorus, The Goldern Horn or the minarets of Aya Sophia and Suleymaniye Mosque. Look down at the intricate network of narrow streets surrounding the tower.

While I adore the bustle of the streets and bazaars of Istanbul being at the top of Galata Tower provided a breathing space, an airborne retreat where you could open your arms and encompass the whole of this remarkable city.

Opening Times: 9.00am-7.00pm daily

The Spice Bazaar is also known as the Egyptian Bazaar, Misir Carsisi, because taxes from the sale of Egyptian imports were used to help finance it.

The Bazaar is a colourful mix of sights, sounds and smells. Much smaller and more accessible than the Grand Bazaar it is equally as busy. Traders will tempt you into their shops with a tray of Turkish Delight or offer of tea and once inside you can peruse an array of spices, sweets, nuts and teas.

This is a good place to shop for gifts to take home - spices, Turkish delight, other sweets. Or maybe some Apple Tea to accompany the Tea Glasses you buy at the Grand Bazaar.

The streets around the Spice Market, particularly leading up to the Grand Bazaar, are a crowded, vibrant noisy, confusion of people, shops, stalls and carts. Take your time wandering through them - to be honest that shouldn't be difficult as you try negotiating the busy swarm of people and goods. Go with the flow, the sights, the sounds and experience shopping Istanbul style.

Open: 9.00am-6.00pm closed Sunday

Noisy, busy, easy to get lost in, hard to get out of but always fun and enjoyable sum up my feelings about the Grand Bazaar.

If you enjoy shopping and bargaining you'll love it. If you find bargaining or approached by people a little uncomfortable then the Grand Bazaar is probably not for you.

Yes, it's very touristy. There are endless shops selling Apple Tea Glasses, Turkish Coffee Cups, Belly Dancing Outfits etc.. however you can also buy beautiful jewellery, fine fabrics, good value leather goods and, of course, carpets and kilims.
The shop keepers can be persistent but are generally very always hospitable. Often an invitation into a shop will be accompanied by an offer of Apple Tea or Turkish Coffee, if you accept don’t feel that this obliges you to buy something as it doesn’t. However, it does put you in a position where you are more likely to be shown and start looking at items. Again if you find this uncomfortable politely refuse.

If you do want to shop then get ready to bargain. Offer about half the asking price, or below, and work from there. Have in your mind what you want to pay and stick to it.

Remember, always be polite. And if you do get a bit exhausted with haggling there are plenty of little cafes to sit down in, have a drink and admire the bargains you've bought.

Visit and enjoy.

Harem means forbidden and this area of the palace was indeed forbidden to all men but the sultan, princes and the eunuchs who attended and guarded the Harem quarters.

The harem was, essentially, the private living quarters of the Sultan, his wives, concubines and children, all contained in a labyrinth of corridors rooms and courtyards. At one time the harem contained 1000 concubines, most of whom were Christian or Jewish slaves who had been captured or were bequeathed to the Sultan as a gift. Once in the harem the girls would be taught singing, dancing and musicianship, amongst other skills, and would begin a life in the hothouse atmosphere of the harem. There competition to rise through the ranks and become a favourite of one of the princes or the Sultan himself was rife, in the hope of securing a better, though not necessarily more secure, place in the hierarchy of the harem. Bearing the Sultan a child ensured a higher status and also, if the child was a boy, the chance that he would be the next Sultan making his mother the most powerful woman in the harem, the Valide Sultan.

The Valide Sultan, the Sultan’s Mother was at the top of the Harem hierarchy and it was she, through the black eunuchs, who controlled access to the Sultan. Courting her patronage while avoiding her displeasure – or indeed that of the eunuchs who through their knowledge of the secrets of the harem and palace wielded a quiet but substantial power – must have led to an exhausting, intense and frightening atmosphere.

In terms of its architecture and decoration there are some fascinating rooms in the harem complex including the Dining Room of Ahmet III, which is decorated with fruit and flower motifs, and the Imperial Hall, where the Sultan would sit and be entertained by musicians and dancers. Also throughout the harem there are more examples of beautiful tiling.

In the end, however, my most potent memory of the harem is of the women who lived there. Standing in one of the courtyards overlooking the Harem baths it is easy to imagine their daily lives, the frustrations, hopes and ambitions while in the narrow corridors one can imagine the scheming, intrigue and jostling for position as the woman tried to carve out a better life and position for themselves.

You have to take a guided tour of the harem and there is a separate entrance fee over and above that paid to enter the palace itself. Tickets are limited so get there early.

The Treasury at Topkapi Palace is a riot of gold, gems, glitter and, to be honest, wondrous excess. Contained within it are precious items made for the Sultan and court, either to be used by them, or given as gifts to other rulers and dignitaries. Many pieces are themselves gifts presented to the Sultan through diplomatic channels.

There are gold plated thrones, bejeweled plumes used to decorate turbans, the amazing 86 carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond and probably the best known object in the collection, the Topkapi Dagger. Golden, studied with jewels and dominated by three large emeralds (one of which conceals a watch face) in its handle the Topkapi Dagger is a lesson in beauty, affluence and sheer indulgence.

The exhibits are well labeled, with a description and short history, and also well displayed making it easy to appreciate the richness – both decoratively and, to be honest, monetary - of the objects. It can get busy so you may find yourself vying for space in front of the display cases. That is if the many diamonds haven’t dazzled you first!

Housed in an old palace overlooking the Hippodrome the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts charts the history, influences and changes in Islamic Art through the use of pottery, tiles, artifacts, calligraphy, glass and metal work, manuscripts and friezes.

There are some wonderful exhibits, especially the beautiful calligraphy and decorated manuscripts, vibrantly coloured tiles and also the exquisite, elaborate pins and brooches used to decorate turbans.

The later galleries and the Main Ceremonial Hall contain one of the world’s foremost collection of antique carpets. The exhibition explains the different types of carpets and how some styles are named after certain artists i.e. Holbein, because they were featured in paintings by those artists. In the west Turkish carpets were so prized that they were used as table coverings rather than on the floor, thus showing the wealth of those who owned them.

The museum also has an Ethnographical Section which includes a reconstruction of a traditional Yurt dwelling and also details of how natural dyes are made from such things as plants, dried flowers and even crushes insects.

All the exhibits are well displayed with descriptions in Turkish and English There is a lot to take in however the museum also has a lovely tea room where you can refresh your senses and feet and, in summer, sit out on the terrace with beautiful views over the Blue Mosque

The Fortress of the Seven Towers was built around the Porta Aurea (Golden Gate) constructed circa AD390 by Theodosius I and through which Emperors entered the city. The gate became part of the city walls, built during the reign of Theodosius II, and then after the Ottoman capture of Istanbul, Memhet the Conqueror began remodelling the fortress adding 5 towers until it took the shape that it retains today.

The fortress was originally used as a treasury but then became a prison in which foreign dignitaries, members of the ruling elite and deposed Sultan’s were held – and executed. Now as well as being a historical attraction the fortress is used as a concert arena.

You can still see the remains of the Golden Gate - now bricked up – and also the aptly descriptive Well of Blood into which served heads were tossed. The great pleasure of Yedikule though is scrambling up and down the fortifications, in and out of towers and gazing out over the Sea of Mamara and towards Sultanahmet in the distance.

It's not for the faint hearted, there are no guard rails on the fortifications or ramparts, it’s uneven underfoot, quite vertiginous and some of the metal stairwells in the towers are a little rickety. So be careful, however, it is also fantastic – we had the place more or less to ourselves and it was great fun exploring the different levels in the hollow towers, scaring ourselves by peeping over edges or just leaning on the walls and staring at the distant ships making their way across the Sea of Mamara.

Take bus 80 from Eminonu or the train from Sirkeci station to the stop at Yedikule.

Built between 1316 and 1361, around an earlier church, the small brick building of St. Saviour in Chora (now called the Kariye Mosque Museum) contains some of the most wonderful and best preserved examples of Byzantine art anywhere. The church’s patron, Metochites, a Byzantine scholar and politician ended his days as a monk at the church having been allowed to return after falling from power and spending two years in exile.

The mosaics found in the church portray scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, the Day of Judgement, and Heaven and Hell. The colours in the mosaics seem as vibrant and fresh as they were when first created. When the church was converted to a mosque in the 15th century the mosaics were covered over with plaster rather than destroyed remaining so until the mid 19th century, and this covering may have helped to preserve their appearance.

They are also intricately detailed and one of the pleasures of standing in front of them is being able look deeper into the images picking out different things with each sweep of the eyes, for instance one small beautifully realised scene where water is being poured from a pitcher into large earthenware pots. Although slightly off the beaten path it is well worth taking a trip to the Kariye Camii to see these magnificent pieces of art.

Bus 37E or 38E from Eminonu goes to near the museum or take a taxi. The museum is open everyday except Wednesday.

Between 408 and 450 Theodosius II constructed a wall arching round the city of Constantinople and providing a land defence running 4 miles (6.5 km) from the Sea of Mamara to the Golden Horn. The walls served the city well protecting it from invading forces for nearly 1000 years until, in 1453, Mehmet the Conqueror breached the walls and entered the city.

The walls consisted of a main inner wall, 16 feet (5 m) thick and 40 feet (12 m) high, a terrace, then an outer wall 7 feet (2m) thick and about 30 feet (8.5 m) high, this outer wall overlooking a moat. The double walls also included a total of 192 towers plus 11 fortified gateways which gave access to the city. It was an amazing feat of engineering and must have been an incredible site to those approaching the city, especially if contemplating how to overcome this almost impenetrable barrier.

Now the ravages of time and neglect have meant that many areas of the wall have fallen into disrepair, though they are, as ruins so often can be, still very impressive their shapes making jagged shapes, like broken teeth, against the sky. Other sections have been restored and these give a good indication of how the walls used to look.

We decided to walk along the walls from Yedikule Fortress to Edirnekapi before cutting inwards to the Kariye Camii Museum – a distance of about 3 miles. Walking ‘along’ the walls is a bit of a misnomer as though some guide books say it is possible to climb onto the inner or outer walls access is not easy and the walls themselves, at times almost in a state of collapse, don’t always look safe enough to climb on. This did mean that for the first part of our journey following the route of the walls we were walking next to a busy main road and exhaust fumes are not the most pleasant accompaniment. However, next to the walls in, I assume, the old moat are a string of allotments and the exhaust fumes were mitigated by the smell of growing vegetables and plants drifting across from them.

The old gates to the city are generally in quite good repair and close to one we were able to gain access onto the, reconstructed, outer wall and terrace, the latter also filled with allotments. Though a bit ramshackle and rather a rubbish dump in places this part of the walk was fantastic as hidden from view we walked in solitude between the inner and outer walls watching butterflies flit between vegetables and trying to imagine what it must have felt like to be hunkered down in one of the towers waiting for an incursion or attack.

Later we passed through some more traditional neighbourhoods and stopped for tea at an outside café near the Topkapi Gate where we had a wonderful part English, part Turkish, part sign language conversation with some of the other customers who were interested to know where we had been, where we were going and how we liked Istanbul.

All in all it took us about 2 hours to complete our walk, arriving at the Kariye Camii Museum with a sense of achievement and some good memories. I wouldn’t recommend this walk for everyone, it was tiring, it wasn’t always attractive – meaning the main road really – and certain sections of the walls are rather deserted and I wouldn’t want to tackle them on my own, however, it provided some of my most abiding memories of Istanbul and I am really pleased we did it.

You can join the walls at various places – bus 80 goes from Eminonu to Yedikule and buses 37E and 38E go from Edirnekapi, near the Kariye Camii Museum.

Nestled under the shadow of the Bosphorus Bridge is Ortakoy an attractive neighbourhood of narrow cobbled streets lined with cafes and shops which, across the busy road, heads upwards to a more residential area of apartments and houses. Here we spent a pleasant hour or so strolling around losing ourselves among the houses and glimpsing views across to the Bosphorus Bridge all under the watchful eye of the many neighbourhood cats.

The main square of Ortakoy, Iskele Meydani, is on the waterfront and, like the warren of streets leading to it, contains a number of cafes and restaurants, quiet on the rather damp October morning when we visited but, I imagine, bustling in the evening or on a warm summer day.

At the side of the square and jutting into the water is the Mecidiye Mosque built in 1854 for Sultan Abdul Mecit. The architect was Nikogos Balyan who with his father designed the Dolmabache Palace. Unfortunately, the mosque was not open so we couldn’t view inside but its square doom-topped shape and two slender minarets are extremely attractive. It is also interesting to counterpoint this with the modern architecture of the Bosphorous – or Ataturk - Bridge, completed on 29th October 1973 the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Turkish Republic. The two do seem to complement each other, the profile of the suspension tower of the bridge echoing the minarets of the Mosque, another example of the Istanbul’s melding of ancient and modern.