Easter Week in Rome

What can I say about Rome? I so want to love it, but I just can't quite get there. I admire it and respect it but there is something that keeps me wanting to keep it at arm's distance. I picked up a book in my apt., left behind by a previous visitor and came upon this paragraph that eloquently describes my feelings:

"I had been to Rome several times before, and never much liked it. Italy is without a doubt one of my favorite countries in the world, perhaps my single favorite, but I've always found Rome grimy, congested, and despondent. Beautiful, yes -- Michaelangelo's Campidoglio, St. Peter's, the Villa Borghese, the Via Veneto, are all striking in different ways, ancient, luxuriant, opulent -- but overwhelming, threatening." -- Joseph Finder, Extraordinary Powers

Whatever you say about Rome, it's a tale of many cities; the ancient, the modern, the Catholic, the polluted, the protected, the laid back, and the hectic. . . There's a Rome there for everyone.

Quick Tips:

There so much to see in Rome and it can be incredibly overwhelming. A bit of planning and some good tour books are essential to help you get the most out of your time in this city. I found DK Eyewitness Rome and a great map to be my most useful tools. The Eyewitness books do an excellent job of breaking down neighborhood and giving you street-by-street, building-by-building information. I carried it with me everywhere and was so glad I did.

Best Way To Get Around:

The old part of Rome is small enough that you can navigate much of it on foot. Set out for the day and break up the pace with plenty of stops for an espresso, or a glass of wonderful Italian wine. Even someone like me, with uncooperative knees, can find plenty of places to sit a moment and absorb atmosphere; a bench, a fountain, a ruin... there's always something! The bus system is also easy to use. Buy a 75-minute ticket for one euro and stamp the ticket in the machine when you get on the bus.

For a more homelike environment while you are visiting Rome, try renting an apartment. I stayed for one week and found my apartment, just off Via Vittorio Emmanuel to be the perfect location and accommodation for my home away from home.



On the third floor of a 500-year-old building, the "Red Apartment" had a kitchenette -- equipped with dishes, cooking needs, a stove top, and a refridgerator (no oven) -- a comfortable bedroom, a bathroom, TV, phone (local calls free, phone card for long distance), and a nice sitting area completed the small studio apartment. My apartment was on the third it's really the fourth by American counting. I had a small terrace and the kitchen window looked out on a central courtyard area of the building. The one downside was the 83 stairs to climb every time I came "home". After a long day of walking around Rome, those stairs started to become a nuisance. Particularly difficult to lug a heavy suitcase up!



Sleep In Italy AND my landlord were both incredibly helpful with my visit.

This restaurant on Vicola Chiesa Nuova turned out to be my favorite restaurant during this visit. Filled with locals, and run by a family it does a brisk business. Even Mama, who looked to be maybe 80 years old, was busy slicing the big loaves of bread, cutting slices of meats, and grating cheeses. The wood-burning pizza oven is roaring in the main room and the pizza chef builds a never ending train of pizzas in view of diners.

Favorite dish:
The Antipasto Misto here was to die for! A plate of deliciously grilled vegetables; peppers, eggplant, squashes, stuffed mushrooms, a generous slice of vegetable torta, marinated beans, and sliced meats made up this feast. I followed this with an excellent carbonara. A mezzo bottle of the house red was perfect with this meal.

It is said that all roads lead to Rome, but the sign on the building on Vittorio Emanuel says "Partito Repubblicano Italiano". You are entering Vatican City. As soon as you turn onto Via D. Conciliazione you get your first look at St. Peter's, in all it's glory. It's HUGE!

St. Peter's houses some of the world's artistic masterpieces. Michaelangelo's spectacular Pieta is just inside the door, now behind glass thanks to one crazy tourist who did significant damage to the work in 1972.

An anecdote: I stopped at the Univeral Bar for a cappuccino and to bask in the sun setting behind St. Peter's. The waiter wanted to chat about where I was from. I asked him a question about St. Peter's and he said, "I've never been in there. It's not my thing."

My single most incredible moment was walking behind the Capitoline and catching my first glimpse of the Roman Forum spread out in front of me. From that vantage point, I could see the entire forum with the Colosseum in the distance. It is such an amazing sight and I can't recommend strongly enough that this be your first look at the area.

In the past I have come into the Forum from the Colosseum end and the view is not nearly as dramatic. The Arch of Septimius Severus is one of the most complete structures at the west end of the Forum. Walking under this Arch was such a mind-blowing experience for me. To think that I was following the footsteps of people 2000 years before me! Santi Luca e Martina is next to the Arch and was built in 1635, replacing a medieval church. At the west end of the Forum, eight columns (see photo) survive the ancient Temple of Saturn.

Walking through the forum is an extraordinary opportunity to get so close to the engravings, the details, and the antiquities. It felt amazing to be able to rest awhile on a piece of a column that was a couple of thousands of years old. In April there was gorgeous wisteria blooming everywhere throughout the forum. Also, beautiful old olive trees abound.

What can I say about the Colosseum (other than I keep trying to stick too many "l"s in it)?

Probably Rome's most famous site, you can buy replicas of it all over the city. It's in darn good shape for a 2000-year-old structure! Heck, my house has as many structural problems as this thing!

But a little history, just to make this addition worthwhile. . . the founder of the Colosseum was Vespasian, a professional soldier who became emperor in AD 69. Work was begun in AD 72 and finished 24 years later!

Open 9am to one hour before sunset, there is an entrance charge. But it's worth it to sit and breathe in the atmosphere. There's an extra charge for the audio "tour".

Note: There are many many vendors on the grounds surrounding the Colosseum; knock off purses, sunglasses, jewelry, scarves, postcards, keychains. . . you name it, someone wants to sell it to you. And the vendors will often be ruthlessly in your face. Just say no sternly and keep walking (unless, of course you feel like shopping).

One "scam" I didn't say no to and am glad I didn't was the gladiators standing outside the Colosseum. For 5 euro they will take a photo of you with their compatriots with your camera. Hokey, sure, but I love my gladiator photo!

This enormous monument, originally honoring the first King of Italy, took 26 years to build. Later dubbed the "wedding cake" or the "typewriter", climb the many many steps for great views of Rome. On one of the busiest intersections in the city, you may feel you're taking your life in your hands crossing the street. The trick is not to look at the drivers. . . just keep moving!

Piazza Navona is one of the more famous pedestrian squares (or ovals) in Rome. With the very dramatic Quattro Fuimi, Bernini's famous fountain, as its centerpiece, the large piazza has a colorful and interesting past. Until the 19th century, it was actually flooded and the rich would ride around in carriages while the urchins paddled behind them.

Today the piazza is habituated by people strolling around, enjoying gelati, and taking a look at who's wearing what. The piazza is surrounded with cafes and stores, and filled with vendors selling their souvenirs.

It's the perfect spot for La Dolce Vita (the sweet life) or "la dolce fa niente" ("the sweetness of doing nothing. . ." other than eating gelato!).

Rome is a very walkable city. But even given the proximity of the sites most people will want to see, there are a lot of stairs, and a lot of cobbles and eventually your feet are going to complain.

So when you need a break, take a look at these modes of transportation. They will take you "past" the major sights and save your feet and knees.

Alternatively, I discovered that for one euro you can ride the bus anywhere you want to go for 75 minutes. The bus is a fantastic people-watching place. Riding the 23 line from end to end took me through neighborhoods tourists don't see. Just watching locals get on and off and communicate with fellow Romans was interesting.