STREETS OF LAREDO

In the middle of historic Laredo across from a beautiful plaza and within walking distance of International Bridge #1 is La Posada Hotel and Suites. It started as a small inn housed in an old 1900’s building and during the past 30 years has become "a historic symbol of quality and grace on the banks of the Rio Grande River" according to their brochure. Today La Posada has 208 guest rooms, many with balconies overlooking the Rio Grande or the courtyard patios, three restaurants, convention and meeting center and a museum.

The rooms are large, beautifully decorated and offer wireless internet access in every room, something I always appreciate. There are two swimming pools and even a swim up bar.

The truly unique aspect of this hotel is that they have taken the surrounding historic buildings and turned them into part of the total package known as La Posada. For example, what was once a Spanish-colonial convent is now a convention and meeting center. The old Laredo Telephone Exchange, which opened only 8 years after Alexander Graham Bell obtained his patent on the telephone, is now the Tack Room Bar and Grill Restaurant. The old Republic of the Rio Grande Capitol Building is an adjacent museum.

Another great benefit for those who play golf, all La Posada guests have privileges to the Laredo Country Club and its 18-hole course.

Although we didn’t eat at any of the restaurants, we did learn a little about them.

• The Tack Room Bar and Grill, with its Victorian décor offers fresh gulf seafood, aged prime beef or baby-back ribs.

• El Café, located just off the lobby is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and specializes in Mexican food and proclaims it to be the best in Laredo.

• The Tesoro Club offers Continental cuisine and nightclub entertainment.

• The Bougainvillea Bar, locate at the west courtyard swimming pool is a swim-up bar and is THE best place for a frozen Margarita.

Walking through the courtyards and ivy covered walkway that connects the two sections of the hotel, or just sitting at one of the pools is a beautiful experience. We felt as if we were in a private hacienda, worlds away from reality.

The rates here can vary sufficiently; higher during special events and bargin prices when the hotel is empty. Be sure to ask if that is the lowest price available when making your reservations. They are negotiable.

The atmosphere at Coyote Creek was unusual, to say the least. Entering, we were greeted by a large stuffed bear. There are several dining areas, each with a very distinct theme: The Texas Saddle Room, the Trophy Room, La Ville, the Sports Bar and a magnificent Victorian Banquet Room. We ate in the Trophy Room,

Menu includes appetizers, soups, salads, pastas, burgers, sandwiches, Mexican specialties, fish, and steaks. In other words "a little bit of everything".

• Muy Macho Panchos ($7.99) This appetizer is a mountain of chips layered with refried beans, beef and chicken fajitas, cheese, guacamole, pico de gallo, sour cream and jalapenos. It’s a meal in itself. Be sure to have a few friends to help you.

• Poblano Stack ($9.49) layered poblano peppers with either beef or chicken toped with cheese and cream sauce.

• Chicken Laredo ($8.49) grilled chicken breast smothered with mushroom cream sauce with poblano rice and veggies.

• Coyote Style Border Parrillada ($21.95-$41.95) is the perfect pig-out experience for either two or four people. It includes grilled beef and chicken fajitas, beef ribs, sausage, shrimp, served on a hot sizzling skillet with Mexican rice, borracho beans, guacamole, tortillas and chiles toreados.

With all these wonderful sounding menu items, I simply had to have a burger- a Coyote Classic to be exact. The classic is more of a create-your-own thing- adding American, Swiss or cheddar cheese, avocado, grilled onions, mushrooms, bacon, or jalapenos. All burgers are served with either potato wedges or onion rings. It was excellent- so big I couldn’t keep the burger together and ended up eating most of it with a fork and knife. The potato wedges were crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.

Harry’s choice was the Fisherman’s Platter, fried catfish, shrimp, calamari, stuffed crab and fries, way too much food for one person. (We’re on vacation- grease is king). The Coyote Creek Grill is a fun, friendly and interesting restaurant with great food, reasonable prices and excellent service.

After our not-too-successful shopping excursion in Nuevo Laredo, we happened onto a section of Laredo jam-packed with exactly the type of pottery we were looking for. I was in pottery heaven- pots of every size, shape, color and description. But the little voice inside me said check out a few more places; maybe you will find that perfect one at a lower price.

So, here we go, store after store. In the end, we decided that most carried almost the same thing for about the same price. But heaven is heaven and I had a blast with all that shopping.

We found our best buys at the following two stores:

• El Alamo Pottery, 6030 San Bernando Street, right next door to a Golden Coral Restaurant. 956/718-9777.
• Fiesta Mexican Imports, 2502 San Bernando Street.

Most of the folks we dealt with were willing to reduce the prices a little when we purchased more than one piece. Also, at El Alamo we discovered a corner in the outdoor yard where we found slightly damaged merchandise. For example, I found a rustic looking concrete pot with some small chips along the top- (I thought it was part of the design)- bought it for $10.00, less than half price. Another gorgeous square yellow planter also had a small chip on the top, which will be covered by plants anyway- again purchased it for less than half price.

While at one of the many pottery places we visited, one of the customers told us about Craven Pottery Imports. It is an 80,000 square foot warehouse about 13 miles out of Laredo on the way back to San Antonio, just off Interstate 35. Along with the pottery, Craven offers wrought iron, plant stands, and blown glass. It is located at 13501 Regional Drive, Laredo, Tx 78045 956/725-2608 and is open seven days a week.

As we walked through the gigantic warehouse, Harry informed me that we couldn’t possibly get in one more piece of pottery into our vehicle. Not a problem; after all, Laredo is just 150 miles from San Antonio- there will be another day, another shopping trip.

In 1848, the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, signed between the United States and Mexico, created two cities in two countries, the sister cities of Laredo and Nuevo Laredo. Today, the city has a population of over 300,000. What most people see is a typical border town, with a cross section of its citizens from the prosperous to the very poor. Children on the streets will try to sell you chewing gum; women with children sitting on the sidewalk sell small handmade items.

One of our main reasons for traveling to Laredo from San Antonio, about 150 miles, was to buy some pottery across the border for our newly renovated patio. With high expectations of finding some unique and affordable pieces, we crossed the border and started our search. But our efforts would go unrewarded. As we went through almost every shop on Guerrero Street, the main shopping area, we found nothing that we were looking for. Hot, tired and thirsty, we finally found our one purchase- a "Laredo" baseball-type cap for Harry’s collection.

At this point, we changed our mission. No longer on a shopping quest, we were now simply tourists in search of the best Nuevo Laredo had to offer.

You don’t have to walk very far to find a beautiful park. Most have a centerpiece, such as an ornate gazebo, where you could hear a local band, usually on Sundays. Walkways and flowering gardens crisscross the park and benches are everywhere. We enjoyed a cold bottle of water and a shady area to sit and do some serious "people watching".

Besides the shops along Guerrero Avenue there are several markets with everything from arts and crafts to leather goods, jewelry, shoes, zarape blankets, blown glass and the typical Mexican souvenirs. One of my favorite things to buy in Mexico are the blankets. They are beautifully colored, soft and can be washed and dried without any shrinking or fading.

The advice "don’t drink the water" is still the best advice you can heed, and also don’t eat food from the many street vendors. Stick with bottled anything- sodas, water or beer for your thirst and the nicer restaurants for food. Our favorite activity was simply enjoying the color, music, people and parks in this truly "old Mexico town".

Who would think that a visitor’s center/ rest stop/ roadside park could ever warrant an entry in our travel journal? - but then, this one is different. Located at Exit 18 on Interstate 35, just 12 miles from Laredo, Texas, this visitor’s center is one you have to see to believe.

Approaching it, my first thought was that is was a resort, but the signs said Rest Area which in this part of the country translates to bathroom stop. Following the long winding entrance, we approached this beautiful oasis.

The undisputed centerpiece of the Visitor’s Center is a magnificent sculpture of the State of Texas, created by Armando Flores in 1999. Beyond the outline of Texas is a beautifully landscaped water park and picnic area. There are waterfalls, water gardens and walkways leading visitors through this tranquil oasis. Of course, everything is handicapped accessible. There are individual and private covered picnic areas, providing shade from the Texas sun. Native river bottom rock in pinks, greens and purple tones substitute for grassy areas. Desert plants thrive in this environment. Mexican tile line some of the pools and retainer walls, pink and blue stucco shelters and red tile roofs leave visitors with no doubt where they are.

Uniformed professional bilingual travel counselors who staff the Center offer free services to all visitors. They helped us with maps and information about activities in Laredo. In addition, there are maps and brochures about every tourist site in Texas. Oh, by the way, clean restrooms and vending machines are also available.

We strolled along the pathways, enjoying the pools of water, the beautiful vegetation and landscaping but had to remind ourselves that this was NOT our destination, but merely a "rest stop" along the way.

Any U.S. citizen can cross the Mexican border without a permit or visa as long as you are not traveling more than 26 miles into the country. Your driver’s license will usually be adequate but it is suggested that you also carry proof of citizenship such as your birth certificate or a passport.

Harry and I prefer not to drive our vehicle into Mexico and parked at one of the several public parking areas located at Salinas Avenue and Water Street near the International Bridge #1. Cost of parking is about $5.00 for 3 to 4 hours. From the parking area, it is a short walk to the International Bridge. Both counties collect a small toll as you enter. Entering into Mexico I think we each paid 50 cents and about the same returning. If you purchase liquor in Mexico, you will have to pay a small duty on returning to the U.S. International Bridge #1 is the only crossing that allows pedestrian traffic. After crossing the border you will be on Guerrero Street, which is the main shopping area of Nuevo Laredo.

You can drive across either International Bridge #1 or #2 and pay a small toll per vehicle. There are several parking lots in the shopping area along Guerrero Street. If you drive across the border and park on the street instead of in a parking lot, you will probably be approached by someone offering to "watch" your car for you. LET THEM! Tell them you will pay them when you return. A few dollars will make them happy and protect your vehicle at the same time.

Driving in Mexico is a challenge and I would not recommend it. Many of the narrow streets are one-way and there is no right-turn-on-red. While walking, remember that pedestrians usually do not have the right-of-way.

The worst part of driving in Mexico is waiting in line to return to the U.S. As we walked past cars that had obviously been waiting quite a while, we were glad that we chose to be pedestrians

Be careful what you bring back and be sure to declare your purchases when asked. While shopping, we were approached by at least 10 people wanting to sell us medications and diet pills. Although these items are much cheaper there, it is not a good idea. Diet pills will be confiscated at the border crossing and you would be facing a fine. Also, don’t try to cross into the U.S. with weapons of any kind, fruits or vegetables, meat products, birds or exotic animals. Ten percent of all vehicles crossing the border are searched.

It is not necessary to exchange dollars for pesos, as almost all vendors and shops prefer U.S. dollars and you will see items priced in U.S. dollars. Most hotels and restaurants accept major credit cards.

Following a few simple rules and using good judgment will make your trip into Mexico a comfortable and safe experience.

Laredo, Texas, population just under 200,000, is one of the major international crossings along the U.S./Mexico border and is known as the Gateway to Mexico. It is a short 150-mile drive from San Antonio.

San Agustin de Laredo was established on the north bank of the Rio Grande by a Spanish land grant on May 15,1755. It began with eleven families, 100 head of cattle, 125 mules, 712 horses and herds of sheep and goats. During the Spanish-Mexican period the Texas Cowboy was born and the first Texas cattle drive took place along the San Antonio-Laredo road in the 18th century.

Laredo survived Comanche and Apache Indian raids, dictatorships, revolutions, annexation, and civil war. Throughout its history, Laredo has been under rule by seven different flags. It has immerged as a vibrant and culturally diverse city.

We had traveled to Laredo many times with out-of-state guests to give them a taste of ole Mexico, but never before took the time to get to know the city of Laredo. A good place to start is in one of its five historic plazas. Plazas are highly defined areas, fitting nicely into the planned street grids, and usually bounded by churches or government buildings.

One of the more romantic aspects of the plazas was the custom of the Sunday paseo (promenade) of young people, always under the watchful eye of chaperones. Forming a circle inside a circle, males would circulate in one direction, females in the opposite direction, giving each party a chance to size up the other.

We started at San Agustin Plaza adjacent to the Old Mercado Historic District. Walking along the old streets of Laredo such as Flores, Salinas, Juarez, Hidalgo, Faragut, Zaragoza and Matamores you can really get the "feel" of Laredo. The small shops, narrow streets, the citizens of Laredo enjoying the plazas and parks, and the street vendors reveal this city as a interesting place and one worth getting to know.

Our only disappointment was that the Heritage Trolley Tours of Historic Laredo was not offered the weekend we were there because of a local celebration. The tour features a turn-of-the-century trolley ride through the historic districts. It begins in the San Agustin Plaza and visits the Republic of the Rio Grande Museum, the Old Mercado commercial district, the Victorian St. Peter’s District and Fort McIntosh. The tour usually lasts two hours; is offered Tuesdays and Thursdays at 9:00 a.m. and on Saturdays at 10:00 a.m. and are offered in Spanish and English. Costs is $8.00 adults and $4.00 for children. Contact Laredo Convention & Visitors Bureau (956) 795-2200 or the Heritage Foundation at (956) 727-0977.