Week on the Costa Del Sol

Arriving at the nearest airport with a connection via Paris, my wife and I picked up our rental car at Malaga airport. Once out of airport we were greeted by the warm rays of the Andalusian summer sun and headed along the coastal road towards Fuengirola to our base resort at the Club Playa Vista at Lubina Sol. The coastal road that follows the beach strip often referred to as the Spanish Riviera offers many great vistas of the Mediterranean on one side and mountains on the other. It is frequently lined on both sides with everything from deluxe hotels to inexpensive pensiones between the major resort towns. The local traffic is usually fast, sometimes in excess of 120 MPH, and combined with short take off and landing exits you will definitely improve your driving skills after a week.

Our resort offered a secured parking area with easy access to the main road and backed on to the Mediterranean Sea with a spectacular coastal view from the swimming pool area. A unique view of two water horizons could be enjoyed from the pool.

Just past the roundabout is the road Calle Libra on which a row of shops, services and restaurants serves the needs of this beach life community. At this hub of activity one could quench ones thirst with a sampling of local beers. My usual preference is for darker ale but I developed a taste for a very light but flavourful beer called Cruzcampo served in a frosted glass I think it was on account of the hot and dry weather.

Fresh seafood, local meats both fresh and cured, vegetables, fine olive oils, fruits and staples were readily available at what is called a super market. The chore of getting the groceries was an added experience and pleasure with a chance to use the Spanish phrase book. We chose a variety of local olives. The Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies turned out to be the best I have ever tasted. A great selection of Spanish wine some aged 10 years was available at very reasonable prices. Of course there were Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Oloroso and cream sherries some from nearby Jerez. We picked up a few bottles of wines and included sweet and dry selections of Malaga wine. This fortified wine unique to this area has a strong plum flavour and is definitely worth sampling.

With the pantry now stocked, it was time to prepare what the locals eat. Having only the basic cooking implements at hand, I decided to make a variation on a paella by substituting rice with spaghetti to which I added to a frying pan of local shellfish with olive oil, Spanish onions, red bell pepper, fresh tomatoes, some strips of jamon serrano, from the nearby mountains, and red wine. On the side was boiled broad green beans, a local staple and in-season, served with butter and a squeeze of lemon. A dry Chardonnay complemented the candlelight dinner from our own balcony with a view of the Mediterranean Sea. In writing this journal, I found out that this recipe is typical for Andalusia and is called Fideos a la Malaguena.

This day we took the coastal highway south to Marbella, a most elegant and rich resort town.

Centered around the Plaza de las Naranjos is the attractive Old Town with boutiques filled with hand crafted ceramics, earthenware, rugs and leather goods, bistros, spotlessly clean alleys, orange tree shaded squares, fountain courtyards, old cathedrals and pavement cafes. Brilliant floral displays standout against the whitewashed dwellings along pedestrian lanes that are constructed of tens of thousands of coloured pebble stones arranged in mosaic patterns.

Just a little way from the Old Town towards the beach, there are polished marble walkways through to the cool and peaceful refuge gardens of Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnción. With lush canopies of palm and rain forest trees there many beautiful ceramic tiled seats to take a siesta away from the sun. At the center, there is a grand ceramic tile water fountain.

Continuing towards the beach, there is a wide walkway along the harbour front amongst five-star luxury hotels where you can sit and watch perhaps celebrities coming and going. Many of the restaurants and bars are set up on the beach with wood burning pits to cook the catch of the day. The sea breeze combined with a bit of smoke and sizzling food aroma is irresistible.

The Alhambra sits atop the Sabika hill of a fertile plain located just south of the Moorish part of Granada known as the Albaicin. The Alhambra is now a major tourist complex catering to thousands of visitors daily. A large multi-section parking lot with water works is on the way to the entrance pavilion where tickets for the day are purchased. The Alhambra consists of several interlinked complexes: the Alcazaba, the Nasrid Palaces, the Palace of Carlos V, the Medina and the Generalife with its Summer Palace. In hindsight, I would recommend taking the Calle Real, the principal street in the Medina, to the Wine Gate rather than starting with the Generalife. From this gate you may explore the Alcazaba, the Nasrid Palaces and the Palace of Carlos V.

The Alcazaba with its many towers and zigzagging passages built for the needs of the military offers many vantage points and a good workout. In contrast, the Nasrid Palaces show how space, light, water and ornamentation foster culture and mind development. The controversial Palace of Carlos V is an outstanding work of the Spanish renaissance that now houses museum and exhibition rooms around the circular gallery. It opens up a dialogue between Islamic and Christian ideals. Can they be unified?

The Nasrids extended the horseshoe arch that the Visigoths had used in the construction of churches to create the lavish interiors for their palaces. Elaborate honeycomb stucco domed ceilings of the perimeter-shaded walkways combined with water-cooled elegant courtyards made for gracious living. Each room more magnificent than the previous reveals the sophisticated Islamic splendour and breathtaking craftsmanship. A remarkable feat of 11th century engineering is the Fountain of the Lions where there is a cylinder in the middle of the basin to regulate the flow of the water since the source of the water pressure is natural. The original old palace remains have been incorporated with a great rectangular pool teaming with goldfishes and crowned by a portico of five arches.

The idyllic lush floral gardens of Generalife surround what was the sultan’s summer residence is a stark contrast to the baking brick stone landscape of the Alcazaba. The entrance to the residential part of the Generalife is through a small doorway that leads to the Patio de la Acequia. Down the middle runs a water channel, the Royal Conduit, which is the principle artery of the hydraulic system in the complex. Lined with oriental gardens with rows of water arches, the focal point is the Sala Regia at the far end of the complex. From here one is close to the secret meeting place for Zoray, wife of the Sultan, called the Patio de la Sultana. To reach the "garden of lofty paradise" climb the restored Water Stairway in the shade of a pergola of laurel to the highest part of the Generalife. This amazing stairway has rails that carry a continuous flow of water to the Acequia Real allowing one to dip one’s hand in at any time to feel its coolness.

On our first full day we explored the closest towns along the coastal highway in the direction of Malaga. Just before entering the first major town of Fuengiola is the Roman built castle of Suel, the original town center. Fuengiola has a long sandy beach and a small historic quarter. We parked in the commercial centre and walked around in search of souvenir gifts. To our delight, we found a shop dedicated to the ceramic masterworks of Lladro having some Spanish theme pieces that are not readily available at most international outlets.

Malaga was a strategically important port for the maritime settlers of antiquity and is still a thriving port being Andalusia’s second largest city. At the time of our visit the new museum to house the most famous Spanish painter of the 20th century, Pablo Picasso, was not yet open but a drive along the winding streets near his birthplace shows the influence of the cuboid buildings juxtaposed on colourfully tiled platforms in some of his works.

A city of many conquerors, a Roman amphitheatre architectural site is at the base of the remains of the massive concentric Moorish walls that is called the Alcazaba that snakes up the hill named Lighthouse mountain.

Halfway up the hill are the 14th century ruins of the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Apparently there is a footpath that links the two but it would have been quite a hike. We parked the car at the top of the hill and visited the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Walking along the ramparts, there are many spectacular views over the town, the port and the coastal mountains. There is also a great telephoto view of the Plaza de Tores below as well as the Plaza General Torrijos fountain roundabout.

Further west of Malaga along the coastal highway is the tourist town of Nerja. It is situated at the extremity of the Costa del Sol perched on a cliff above a succession of sandy coves and coral rocks.

The main area for tourists is along the narrow roads following the buildings perched along the cliffs and terminating at El Balcón de Europa. At the various levels of the Balcony of Europe, sweeping views up and down the coast can be enjoyed with a leisurely walk. During the day, there are many beachgoers packed on either side of the balcony to take advantage of the sandy coves. The water with its many shades of blue is so clear that you can see the sand floor below. At sunset, the roads get quickly filled with people promenading between bars, restaurants and shops. There is a sense of excitement in the evening with music flowing on to the streets from the open window tapas bars and the throngs of people. We opted for a quiet and romantic dinner at the restaurant at the base of the cliff overlooking the sea at the beach where we enjoyed a paella for two with clams, squid, prawns and chicken.

From the coastal highway past Marbella, we now turn the car towards the mountains following the Calle Ronda that snakes its way up to 2560 ft above sea level past panoramic views of silvery olive groves and "pueblo blanco" villages. Ronda is situated on a massive rocky plateau of limestone divided by the El Tajo Gorge. One of the last Moorish bastions to fall it is only approachable by three distinct bridges. There are many breathtaking views of the surrounding plains and 300 ft drop views of the winding Guadiaro River.

Perched at the edges of the clefts are dazzling whitewashed Moorish buildings with intricate widow grilles of metal. It was a good thing we brought lots of water with us as we explored the cobbled alleys in the 40 degree C blazing sun. Not surprisingly, there were few people around at high noon. Some of the roads were so steep it was necessary to hug the walls to prevent a slippery fall.

Located in the newer part of the town known, as Mercadillo or "Little Market" is one of the oldest bullrings in Spain. Nearby there are lots of shops and restaurants serviced by pedestrian only streets. Many of the side streets offer tables and chairs in some shade and the local custom of eating tapas. The term is believed to have come from the habit of covering a glass of wine or sherry with a saucer that evolved from placing just cheese, olives or sausage on that saucer to becoming the meal itself. I opted for a refreshing cold gazpacho soup topped with fresh cucumber followed by a tapas de cocina ("from the kitchen"), which has larger portions all on one plate.