In Search of the Goddess

The Hypogeum was the focus of my trip and truly memorable. The National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta is fantastic to give an idea of the history. Many artefacts from the temples are housed here. I also visited Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, which are adjacent. The latter had a wonderful atmosphere, and is in a beautiful spot next to the sea. Ggantija on Gozo is also worth a visit, but a popular tourist haunt.

Quick Tips:

In Valletta, I stayed at the British Hotel, which is not too expensive (ML12-16 a night including breakfast in March) and has views over the harbour. It's also central, and near the bus station and museum.

Best Way To Get Around:

The bus network is fantastic on both Malta and Gozo, and very cheap (15-30 cents per journey). All routes radiate from the capitals, Valletta and Victoria respectively. There is a bus from Valletta which links up with the ferry to Gozo (a 30-minute crossing). Most people speak some English, and they drive on the left.

The rooms are old-fashioned, but comfortable and clean. Service is friendly and good. There is a reasonably priced restaurant, serving some Maltese dishes, such as rabbit. Breakfast is included in the overnight price of 12-16 ML in March (off season), and served on a terrace with a spectacular view of the harbour when the weather permits.

It's in a convenient position, near the port, and also near Republic Street, the main shopping and bank area. The Archaeological Museum and the bus station are only 10 minutes away by foot.

This is an underground temple, extending 10 metres under the earth, with 13 separate rooms. It was hand carved out of the limestone with only flint, obsidian, animal bones and stone tools over 5000 years ago. There is an oracle hole, which has amazing acoustics, and, nearby, a carved circular wall, which resembles an above-ground temple. It has to be seen to be believed! It's necessary to book in advance as the number of visitors is limited and it's very popular, being unique in the world. A beautiful figurine was found here, known as the Sleeping Lady. She is on display, with other artefacts from the temples, at the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta.

Travelling by bus in Malta is an experience in itself. Waspish orange Leyland buses, many of them antiques, swarm around the central bus station, waiting to take passengers and tourists to points all over the island. Mine was called Tracey Star and featured the admonishment 'Eat My Dust!'

The bus to Hagar Qim also stops at the Blue Grotto (see another entry), but my destination was the pair of temples, which are over 5,000 years old and which some say were for the worship of the Goddess.

I was hassled at the first one, Hagar Qim, the slightly more recent of the two, by an over-zealous 'guide'. He encouraged me to jump over the flimsy barriers in order to inspect the antiquities at first hand, and gave me gory, and probably untrue, stories about bowls for blood from sacrifices. So I beat a hasty retreat, and continued on foot to the second, older sight, Mnajdra.

The situation is beautiful, overlooking the sea. It's peaceful and atmospheric. The temples, of limestone, are well preserved considering their age. Mnajdra is aligned to the sunrises on the Spring and Autumn Equinoxes, when the sun strikes a certain stone -- a kind of ancient calendar.

The experience of being at these sights is in a way timeless. It's hard to walk back to the entrance gate and the present day reality of waiting for a bus back to Valletta.