A jewel of Renaissance architecture

1. The highlight of a visit to Cesky Krumlov is undoubtedly its 13th-century castle which was reconstructed in the 16th-century as a chateau with Renaissance-style architecture. The view from the castle's lookout balcony over the Old Town and the river is impressive; better and more impressive is the view through the small windows that line the outdoor passage linking the castle to the Chateau Theatre.

2. The upper castle's interior is equally impressive. Don't miss the Renaissance rooms, the Schwarzenbergs' Gallery and the Chateau Theatre which can be visited on guided tours only.

3. Climb the steps to the top of the recently restored Round Tower which occupies the southeast corner of the castle's third courtyard. The gorgeous view reaches as far as the Sumava Mountains which separate Bohemia from Austria.

4. Stroll along the tiny meandering streets of the Old Town, stop on namesti Svornosti (the Old Town square) and have a look at the Gothic Town Hall and the restored Renaissance buildings, some of which were recently converted into hotels. Explore more buildings, restaurants and souvenir shops along Horni street and don't miss the Gothic Church of St.Vitus.

Quick Tips:

1. The Tourist Information Office on the northwest corner of namesti Svornosti helps with accommodation and transport, sells tickets for tours in the city and beyond and provides free brochures. It opens daily at 9am; it closes at 6pm in winter and at 8pm in summer.

2. Cesky Krumlov attracts hordes of Austrian and Italian tourists all year round. Late spring and early autumn is the worst time to visit since thousands of visitors fill the streets and hotels obviously charge higher rates. The real atmosphere of the town is tasted better when the crowds are away and this is usually in winter or mid-summer.

3. On New Year's Eve, the city comes alive with a midnight display of fireworks. Like everywhere else, restaurants and hotels organise special dinners and dancing parties. If you intend visiting at this time, be sure to make a hotel reservation weeks ahead.

4. Although the city suffered much damage by flood in summer 2002, all venues along the river have been cleaned and redecorated. There's nothing to indicate what has happened a mere couple of years ago except water marks on a few buildings along the banks of the river.

Best Way To Get Around:

1. Cesky Krumlov is accessible from Ceske Budejovice both by train and bus. It's better to come by bus since Cesky Krumlov's train station is relatively far from the centre. If you come by bus, get off at Krumlov Spicak, the first stop in town. Walk northeast along busy Chvalsinska silnice for about 100 metres, turn right and walk towards Budejovicka Gate which leads directly into the Old Town.

2. Coming from Prague, you have to change trains at Ceske Budejovice. Once you're here, walk to the adjacent bus station and take the frequent bus to Cesky Krumlov.

3. Cars are banned from the historic town and the only way to see the attractions is on foot. If you come through the Budejovicka Gate, walk along Latran until you see the castle entrance on your left. Enter the castle area or continue downhill to Lazebnicky bridge, one of the several picturesque bridges that span the Vltava.

4. Cesky Krumlov's bus station is east of the centre. From namesti Svornosti, walk along Horni, turn left on Tavrina and walk ahead for 200 metres. The bus station is not visible from Tavrina; it's advisable to ask for directions.

The leading and finest hotel in Cesky Krumlov, the 5-star Hotel Ruze occupies a 16th-century former Jesuit Monastery and College. The hotel is a short distance away from namesti Svornosti, the Old Town square. From here, walk east along Horni past the Church of St.Vitus and numerous tiny souvenir shops. The hotel is on your right in a huge building which has been meticulously renovated a couple of years ago. The other big building on your left facing the hotel is the former Jesuit seminary, now housing the excellent Regional Museum. If you arrive at the bus station, walk south along Tavrina for about 200 metes. Turn right when you see the crossroads and walk for another 200 metres on Horni. Hotel Ruse is on your left.

The hotel's interior and exterior were extensively restored and modernised with no expense spared. The beauty and style of its Renaissance architecture were preserved surprisingly well; this definitely gives visitors the opportunity to get a feeling of 16th-century history right from the hotel's gate. The hotel's 71 rooms were all carefully decorated to reflect the atmosphere of days past; yet they contain all modern amenities such as satellite television, three-band radio, hairdryer, direct-dial telephone and luxury bathroom with both bath and shower. Some of the rooms for which you have to pay higher rates overlook the river. The view from the room balcony is impressive.

The first thing that catches your eyes on entering through the huge monastery gate is the exhibition of local artistic works which includes fine pieces of Bohemian crystal, unique ceramics and handicrafts. These are displayed in antique showcases in the lobby and two adjacent rooms. Even if you are not staying in Hotel Ruze, you can still have a look at this wonderful art gallery; you may even be tempted to buy since most items are for sale. If you continue straight ahead, you'll reach the magnificent Renaissance-style restaurant used as a dining hall and breakfast room. The restaurant's panoramic terrace overlooking the river caters for 80 people. Reserve a table if you want to enjoy a special evening of excellent dining and live music in a romantic atmosphere.

The hotel's lobby and Internet cafe is an elegant place that provides clients with coffee, drinks and delicious pastries while the atmospheric wine cellar is the right place where you can relax and listen to gypsy music. A concert hall with seats for 150 people and a fitness centre with pool, sauna, solarium and beauty salon complete the picture. Other amenities include: exchange bureau, laundry service, car and bike rental service, souvenir shop and guarded car park.

The breakfast served in the restaurant from 8am to 11am leaves nothing to be desired while the choice of Bohemian, international and medieval dishes served for dinner is amazing. The barbeque-style cooking, the chefs dressed in 16th-century robes and the classic music add up to create a unique atmosphere of tranquillity and relaxation.

The most unusual but the finest eatery in Cesky Krumlov is Krcma Marketa, a Renaissance-style restaurant/pub that specialises in roast meat and Czech delicacies. Located on a wonderful spot within the Castle Gardens (Zamecka Zahrada), it is somewhat difficult to reach but it's worth taking the trouble to come here. Walk all the way through the castle courtyards and pass over Na Plasti, the bridge that joins the castle to the Chateau Theatre. Continue straight ahead along the raised walkway that leads towards the Castle Gardens. Stroll along the garden paths until you locate Krcma Marketa.

Its location seems too out of the way. Just imagine walking back to your hotel at night. However, the excellent atmosphere and the good food for which Krcma Marketa is renowned beats all even the location. On going inside, even before you have time to order, you start feeling as if you've been taken 4 centuries back. The large old wooden tables have seen hundreds of people grabbing a light dinner before a concert or taking a full meal after a day of sightseeing. And what about the smell of roast meat? Have a look at the open barbecue where an extensive variety of meats are spit-roasted. You can opt for chicken or duck, pork or lamb, rabbit or veal. Or why don't you taste the delicious roasted pork knees, considered by the owners as the top item in the meat menu? Meat is meat and should be eaten without accompanying vegetables. However, if you want a side dish for which you have to pay extra, you can opt for fresh salad, pickled vegetables, French fries or roasted potatoes. A few dishes for vegetarians are also available but don't expect such dishes to be as tasty as the roast meat. Most vegetarian dishes are either thick soups such as bramborova polevka (potato soup) or cheese platters such as smazeny syr (fried cheese).

Krcma Marketa has a vast wine cellar consisting mostly of local varieties from Bohemia or South Moravia. Cervene vino or red wine is so and so but for the cheap price, it's worth trying. Better and more Bohemian is Budweiser beer, which goes down well amidst the superb atmosphere that prevails on summer evenings. You can opt for Plzensky Prazdroj or Pilsner Urquell, both top-class lagers from Plzen in West Bohemia. Or if you want beer brewed in Cesky Krumlov, Krcma Marketa has delicious Eggenberg beer on tap. End up your meal with a slice of chocolate cake or fruit-topped ice-cream.

Krcma Marketa takes top marks for service, ambience, roast food and beer; less marks for salads, soups and wine. Soups cost less than US$1, main courses between US$3-9 and beer less than US$2 for a litre. Where in the world can you enjoy an evening of atmospheric dining at such cheap prices? No plastic accepted however; so pay cash.

Opens daily from 6pm to 11pm.

What to see, what to do and how much to spend depends to a great extent on your interests. Lovers of history and architecture will find in Cesky Krumlov a rich heritage of impressive architectural styles and a 13th-century Renaissance castle which was successively passed on from one influential landowning aristocratic family to another. Lovers of artistic works will be impressed by the numerous portrait paintings housed inside the Castle's Renaissance Hall and by the Flemish tapestries and priceless furnishings inside the Schwarzenbergs' rooms. Visitors who like to wander away from the crowds will find inside the Castle Gardens a paradise of tranquillity or if they venture 2kms further towards the monasteries in Zlata Koruna, they will be fascinated by the outstanding natural beauty of the region. If you like water sports, you can launch a rented canoe and navigate downriver through two areas of rapids admired by crowds of tourists laughing and clapping waiting to see if you'll survive without being thrown over. All this may seem spectacular and interesting but if your time in the city is limited to just a couple of days, plan beforehand what to see and do. However, whatever your interests, don't miss the following:

1. Touring the Krumlov Castle is undoubtedly the highlight of any visit to Cesky Krumlov. Founded in the mid-13th-century by the rich and powerful Vitkovci family, the castle was further developed and enlarged under the rule of the influential lords of Rozmberg. After 20 years used by Emperor Rudolf II, it was donated to the Eggenberg family in 1622 and later inherited by the Schwarzenbergs. The Baroque Castle Theatre, the Bellarie summer house and the riding school were added when the Schwarzenberg family made the castle their home. You can wander as much as you like in the courtyards and within the splendid 17th-century Baroque Castle Gardens which extend over an area of 10 hectares. But the interior halls can be viewed on guided tour only which takes just over 1 hour and covers the Chapel of St.George, the Renaissance Hall, the Schwarzenbergs' rooms and the rococo Masquerade Hall in the Chateau Theatre. Don't miss the impressive view from the outdoor walkway over Na Plasti bridge. More impressive and far more gorgeous is the view from the 12th-century Round Tower. Entrance to the tower requires a separate ticket.

2. Cesky Krumlov offers visitors a wide selection of 80 restaurants, pubs and cafes. In summer, the dining areas more than double when tables are spread on numerous terraced backyards overlooking the river. If you come here in fine weather, opt for a table outside where the atmosphere is one of peace and relaxation. Four picks among the best eateries and drinking places are: Papa's, Krcma Marketa, Na Louzi and Pizzeria Latran.

3. Enjoy an evening of music or theatrical performance inside one of the city's theatres. During the tourist season, the Town Hall on namesti Svornosti becomes a venue of outstanding musical concerts while Mestske Divadlo (Town Theatre) along Horni street is the place for operettas and drama. If you're looking for a top atmospheric theatre, there's nowhere better than the Baroque Chateau Theatre which gives daily classical performances in summer. For jazz or pop music, the open-air theatre with a revolving auditorium within the Castle Gardens is the place to go. More information and theatre tickets from the Tourist Information Office, namesti Svornosti 2.

4. Cesky Krumlov hosts a number of excellent annual festivals which are both cultural and entertaining. In June, the Five-petalled Rose Festival (Slavnost petiliste ruse) is mainly a folklore activity on a large scale when the whole city becomes a stage of locals dressed up in Renaissance costumes. Musicians, artists, peasants, craftsmen, lords, knights and merchants parade the streets for three days and perform various activities ranging from folklore dancing and acting to fencing and jousting. The festival ends up with a splendid display of fireworks. Every August, performers from all over Europe take part in the International Music Festival. Concerts are held in nine spectacular venues scattered within the Old Town and the castle area.

5. Find time to visit at least one of Cesky Krumlov's museums. The Regional Museum of Local History (Okresni Museum) housed inside the former Jesuit seminary in front of Hotel Ruze is dedicated to Cesky Krumlov's one thousand year history. The museum's highlight is a huge 1:200 ceramic model which displays with surprising clarity and precision the streets and buildings within the Old Town. The museum opens daily in summer but not so frequently during the rest of the year. One other museum worth visiting is the Egon Schiele Art Centre at Siroka 70/72. This picture gallery housed inside a former brewery has a splendid permanent exhibition of paintings, mostly watercolours by the Austrian artist Egon Schiele. You can also see numerous documents related to his life and works, besides temporary exhibits of classical or contemporary artistic works brought here from museums elsewhere.

The Novohradske and Sumava mountains are the largest woodland area in Central Europe. Situated in South Bohemia within a region of outstanding natural beauty and stretching for 125kms along the border with Austria and Bavaria, Sumava is an area of virgin forests, glacial lakes, pristine mountain ridges and natural parks which have hardly been touched by man. Come here for relaxing walks in the forest or downhill skiing in the mountains and enjoy beautiful natural scenery few resorts are able to offer.

Cesky Krumlov, at the foot of the Sumava Mountains is a unique architectural and picturesque town of medieval origin but it is not the only interesting town in the region.

There are numerous other small towns and villages ideal for walking, hiking or cycling much better than Cesky Krumlov since they are either uncrowded or still undiscovered. A town whose neighbouring countryside is a paradise of natural beauty is Klatovy lying at the northernmost foot of the Sumava mountains. Known as the 'Gate to Sumava', it is a town of 23 thousand inhabitants and the administrative centre of the Sumava Region. Located 100kms northwest of Cesky Krumlov, Klatovy is accessible from Ceske Budejovice in about two hours by both bus and train. The Klatovy Tourist Office can help with questions about walking in the region and sells detailed maps for hikers concerning the Sumava trails. It's advisable to visit the Catacombs of Klatovy and climb to the top of the 81 metres high Black Tower for an excellent panoramic view of the mountains before exploring the nearby countryside. You can walk north for about 10kms along untouched forested trails until you reach Svihov where you can visit an original preserved Gothic castle.

From Klatovy, take a bus southeast (six daily) towards the hilly village of Rabi which is perched on a rocky ridge 478 metres above the Otava River. Stop at Zichovice and then follow the marked 2kms yellow trail towards Rabi Castle. This huge structure consists of three terraced sections, one rising gradually above the other and each guarded by its own defensive walls. A remarkable tower called don-jon stands in the middle. Since 1954, the castle was passed on to the state and has lately become a tourist attraction. Cultural activities and concerts are sometimes held in the castle courtyards.

From Rabi, walk 9kms southwest to the village of Susice. The vast area of mountainous terrain, lakes and valleys between Susice and the German border is part of the Sumava National Park which at 683 square kms is the largest park in the Czech Republic. One of the most rewarding hiking tracks to follow is the marked 28kms 'Klostermannova Stezka' which starts a short distance south of Susice in the hilly village of Hartmanice. From here, the marked trail takes you further uphill to Kasperske Hory from where it runs east amidst forested peaks, meadows, peat bogs and wild valleys towards the tiny village of Vacov. Another hiking trail, not recommended for beginners however is the marked 'Medvedi Stezka' which runs close to the Bavarian border along the picturesque villages of Hamizna, Povydri and Churanov. You have to walk mostly along rugged rocky terrain, steep ridges and unforested mountain tops.

The highlight of the Sumava National Park is the vast area northwest of Cesky Krumlov. Known as Boubinsky Prales, it is a virgin forest on the slope of Mount Boubin which at 1362 metres is the second highest peak of the Sumava Mountains. There is a 38kms marked trail that links Boubinsky Prales to Horni Plana passing through thick unpolluted forests of spruce and pine. During the walking tour, you'll come across nine informative display boards that explain interesting facts about the history of the forest. Stroll along the shores of the picturesque Boubin Lake, formerly used to transport wood to the factories in Lenora.

Besides Boubin Lake, the Sumava National Park has seven other glacial lakes covering a total area of 42 hectares. The largest is the 18 hectare Cerne Jezero (Black Lake) which has a maximum depth of 40 metres. You can stroll anywhere along the lakeshore but 47 hectares of the nearby forested area is surrounded with a fence and is out of bounds to visitors. One other glacial lake whose wonderful forested surroundings reward visitors with splendid walks is Lipno Lake. Also called Lipno Dam, it has a 42kms long lakeside, most of it ideal for hiking. The area around Lipno Lake can be reached easily on foot in about one hour from the tiny village of Horni Plana. From here, there are six daily local trains back to Cesky Krumlov or you can take a bus to the picturesque secluded village of Kajov from where you can continue to Cesky Krumlov.

The best hiking map (1:50 000) which covers the whole Sumava region is published by Klub Ceskych Turistu. Look for it inside the Tourist Information Offices in Prague, Ceske Budejovice or Cesky Krumlov or inside the smaller Tourist Offices in Klatovy, Strakonice or Prachatice.