A day in Brugge/Bruges

A May 2004 trip to Bruges by FlyBalletGuy

The most romantic city in Europe or overly precious tourist trap? It depends on the day!

  • 2 reviews
I’m torn between finding Brugge beautiful or finding it a tourist trap. I probably came at the worst time, a Sunday afternoon. Because Brugge’s shops remain open on Sunday when they close in surrounding cities, the streets are overcrowded with both tourists and local shoppers. The town is peppered with gaggles of English and Japanese tour groups gawking at the white swans the city keeps to swim in the canals. And yet, walk into the Begijnhof or along the Minnewater and you’re transported to a quiet, marvelously preserved medieval place. Looking at the massive belfry tower (the symbol of Brugge’s independence as a city state in the middle ages) from the Rozenhoedkai as the sun sets is the most stunning view I saw.

As I was walking in Brugge with two friends, both Gent natives, we passed a couple walking the other way talking a language that sounded either Slavic or Polish. Both friends were multilingual, and I asked what language the couple was speaking. One said genuinely, "One I don’t understand at all!" The other one laughed, repeated what they said to him in Flemish and explained that they were also speaking Flemish, but in the local dialect. The two cities are a 20-minute train ride apart!

Quick Tips:

Come midweek and walk around early or late after the tourist crowds have thinned out. Note that museums are closed on Monday - this changed from a few years ago when it used to be Tuesday and some guidebooks misreport this.

Best Way To Get Around:

Foot. Taxis are brutally expensive, a 15 minute walk costs 6-7 Euro by cab. Buses are plentiful in town, but Brugge is very walkable and simple to go about by foot.

Hotel EnsorBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

The Hotel Ensor is right off t’Zand on the Speelmansrei. It’s an affordable budget choice, 53EUR for a single with breakfast booked directly from their website (www.ensorhotel.be). It’s a simple, welcoming place with spacious rooms and the feel (both good and less good – like linoleum flooring and aging mismatched bath towels) of being in someone’s guest room. Friendly staff, a pretty canal opposite, but it backs onto a main thoroughfare so you hear traffic noise. No real services in the room beyond a phone and bathroom with shower. Breakfast was a buffet with plenty of choices. Fine for touring, if you’re going for a romantic getaway, splurge on a more glamorous hotel.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by FlyBalletGuy on May 5, 2004

Hotel Ensor
Speelmansrei 10 Bruges, Belgium

About the Writer

FlyBalletGuy
FlyBalletGuy
New York, New York
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