Edinburgh Life

Climb Arthur's Seat, the extinct volcano that dominates the skyline of the city. I think the red rock of Salisbury Crags look almost like Australian desert cliffs in the sunshine, and the twisty paths like the Inca Trail in Peru. If that is too much activity then stroll up Calton Hill at sunset to see views across the city, the rocky islands of the Firth of Forth and the famous Fourth Bridge in the distance.

The main shopping street, Princes Street, is flanked by lush gardens, which mark the divide between the old and new towns. The views here are dominated by the world-famous castle, perched atop a volcanic crag, and the dark spire of the Scott Monument, dedicated to the novellist Sir Walter Scot. Usually the skirl of pipes is heard, as this is a favoured spot for buskers dressed in the full tartan regalia. During the festival the pipers are often joined by musicians from across the globe, making a quick walk down the high street a multi-cultural experience.

Take a picnic onto the Meadows, a big park by the city centre, in the summer -- people just hang out here on the grass enjoying rare Scottish sun. Another green space is found in the Botanic Gardens, on the north side of the city. Entry is free and they are open between dawn and dusk. Get the 23 bus from Princes Street, or walk past the large stone houses of the New Town.

Quick Tips:

For a different night out, the Stand Comedy Club, just off St. Andrews Square on Queen Street, does a cheap night on Wednesdays; sometimes they have special guests that aren't billed.

The Cameo cinema on Home Street, near Tollcross, does a two for one matinee show on Sunday afternoon, perfect for one of those rainy Scottish weekends.

The Grassmarket (a former gallows site when public execution was common) is one of the centres of Edinburgh social life; lined with pubs, bars, pavement cafes, and tiny shops selling all manner of things. The excellent Finnegans Wake Irish pub is here as is the White Hart, the first pub to be opened in Edinburgh. The Three Sisters, just off the Grassmarket, is a good bar, but it’s probably best avoided on Saturday nights as it is hen/stag night central, that is, unless you are on a hen/stag party.

Best Way To Get Around:

Edinburgh is small enough to get around on foot, and the grid pattern of the new town makes things easy to find. The old town is built along the slope of Castle Hill, and includes lots of windy wee roads. The bus service is frequent and reliable, even on a Sunday, but the timetable displayed on bus shelters is usually out of date. At night, you can get a pedal 'rickshaw' home from the pubs and clubs in the city centre, but I think these cost a fair bit.

China China is an excellent value all-you-can-eat-buffet restaurant. Between 6 and 8pm, they have a happy hour at £7.99 per person for food and after 8pm it costs £9.99 per person. As well as all the Chinese dishes, there are a sushi bar and fresh fruit for desserts if you prefer the healthy option. If not, there is a Mr. Whippy ice cream machine. Usually, there is a special deal on drinks, such as buy two get one free.

Mariachi do an all-you-can-eat Mexican buffet at lunch times during the week, for £5.95 per head. The banner tricked us into the restaurant on a Saturday afternoon, but our hunger, the smell of good, spicy food and the promise of a couple of bottles of Corona beer with wedges of fresh lime made us stay.

The portions here are immense! All the standard Mexican things are on the menu; I had nachos as a starter, followed by the hugest chicken enchilada and Paul had spicy potato wedges, followed by an equally large burrito. All were very good.

There is no special lunch menu, so it is best suited for an evening meal or very hungry people! In total the bill for two starters and two mains, plus a couple of beers came to £30.

We were the only two in the restaurant that afternoon, but I imagine it must get busy on buffet days and in the evenings.

The East Lothian coastline is one of Scotland's sunniest spots, and only half an hours drive from Edinburgh. Perfect for a short break from the grind of city life. Long, golden streches of sand are found from Portobello, on the outskirts of the city, to Musselburgh, Longniddry and the picturesque village of Gullane, home to the world-class Muirfield Golf Links.

Gullane beach is about a mile of golden sands, hidden below the village and flanked by tall dunes covered in marram grass. Even on a summer Saturday afternoon the beach rarely get crowded, and in the spring you can have the whole place to yourself. Sometimes kite surfers and land yachters come here to use the flat sand, and shallow water off the beach. The water quality is rated excellent for bathing and, if you can brave the first chill of dipping you toes in the water, safe for swimming. There are no lifeguards on duty so swimming is at your own risk.

Nearby is Pease Bay, one of the centres of the Scottish surfing scene, where you can take to the waves if you dare. I went cockle-picking on Longniddry beach, round the corner. First finding shallow circles depressed in the sand then digging with my fingers. They are safe to eat from here, but should be cleaned properly to remove the grit. Boil them in water or wine, or roast them in a campfire for a tasty meal (made better by the knowledge that you gathered them yourself!)

Beltane is Mayday (1st of May), where the start of the summer and the return of the sun are celebrated by the lighting of fires and a parade of dancers and drummers throughout the night. The festival begins at sundown and true followers will be around at dawn to wash their faces in the early morning dew. (It's said to make you beautiful for the year to come!)

Edinburgh's Beltane festival was cancelled in 2003 due to the vast number of people attending and the damage they caused to Calton Hill in the city centre. This year it was reinstated by public demand as a ticketed event, costing £3 in advance (tickets from the Hub on the Royal Mile) or £5 on the gate. This includes entry to the club night afterwards from 1am to 5am. The local council had attempted to make the festival dry, but relented at the last minute to allow alcohol in to the site (essential to toast the sun and the queen of May). At the gates they provided plastic containers into which glass bottles had to be decanted for safety.

The festivities started around 9pm although the gates were open from 6.30pm. Going early will not guarantee that you see all the parades as the crowds tend to be large and follow the action, however you will see some street entertainers and hear the drumming. There are also a number of performers in character which you will meet. Many of the crowd are also in costume, with the queen of May being a popular choice.

The night is excellent and atmospheric, with the primal images of fire and sounds of drumming, which is followed by a great club night. The location on Calton Hill means it is easily accessible, and close to a number of pubs and clubs for pre- or post- beltane celebration.

This June saw the opening of the new African habitat at the zoo, housing a collection of Painted Dogs (African Hunting Dogs) and birds from the African bush. Improvements to many of the other enclosures, such as the Ring-Tailed Lemurs, are taking place at the moment, to provide a more naturalistic habitat for the animals. A walk-through enclosure with Gentle Lemurs provides an opportunity for close observation of the inquisitive little animals, whilst they get to watch you.

The big cats are a very popular exhibit, and the glass wall of the enclosure means you can really get face to face with fearsome and beautiful predators such as the Eurasian Lynx and the Ocelot. Endangered Asiatic lions and Amur (Siberian) tigers complete the line-up, and form a vital part of a Europe-wide conservation breeding programme.

The sealions are fed at 11am everyday and usually show off to the crowd that gathers round the pool. The Meerkats and Small-Clawed Otters have recently produced a couple of litters of young, which are recommended for ultimate cuteness.

Edinburgh Zoo sits on quite a steep hill, making it quite difficult for those with wheelchairs or baby-buggies to get started. To counter this, a safari truck runs regularly to the top of the hill, allowing you to work backwards through the zoo and avoid the biggest crowds.

Head down to Edinburgh's coast and discover the tiny fishing village of Newhaven, almost completely swallowed up and surrounded by the city and the port of Leith. The traditional fishermans' cottages sit alongside the picturesque harbour which, with its white lighthouse, is a superb spot to watch the sun setting over the Firth of Forth. It is possible to see along to the famous Forth Bridges, as well as the Fife coast and rocky islands in the firth. In the orangy-gloom of the evening it almost looks more like the remote and rural west coast of Scotland, than the bustling capital city of Edinburgh.

The low red building on the quayside was once the Harry Ramsden fish restaurant, but is now the home of the Newhaven Heritage Museum. This is an excellent little museum, with free entry, that tells the story of Newhaven from a bustling fishing port to the present day. The local pople had an incredibly hard life in the past, with the fishermen risking their lives every day they went to sea. The women left ashore had to process the fish and pack it in to barrels, before carrying it huge packs on their back round the city to sell their wares. The museum is very good for children, as they can dress up in the clothes of the time, discover what the fish in fishfingers look like, and listen on headsets to stories told by people who remember them, in the rough and distinctive accents of the fishermen.

The Harbour Inn in Fishmarket Square is a friendly local pub, with a wide range of ales and other drinks. Bar lunches are served daily from 12 to 3 pm. On Sunday evenings the pub hosts live music, usually folk or blues, and some excellent local groups play. The bar is the usual evening hang-out for climbers from the Alien Rock climbing centre just next door in an old converted church.

Bus services 7, 10, 11 and 16 from the city centre all pass through Newhaven.