An American Expat In London

If you've not got a lot of time for sightseeing, here are my absolutely musts:

1. Tower of London: Absolutely the best attraction of all the historic things to do. Lots of history, entertaining guides, time well spent!
2. Big Bus Tour: A great overview of London, all the major sights, will help you get your bearings.
3. St Paul's Cathedral: Again, lots of history, but if you're athletically inclined enough, a climb to the top affords a better, less expensive, and longer view over the city than a trip on the London Eye!
4. City of London Museum: London's history from ancient Romans to 20th century. Absolutely fascinating, and free!
5. Westminster Abbey: More famous dead people per square inch than can be believed--you'll really get a sense of just how long Britain's history is, especially if you're American.

Quick Tips:

Check websites such as lastminute.com or nationalrail.co.uk. Sometimes there are great deals, like 2-for-1 entry on the national rail site, if you produce a travelcard or rail ticket. Lastminute.com may have discounts to major attractions. The Evening Standard newspaper on Thursdays includes a magazine listing of most events in London, including theatre, cinema, comedy, gay/lesbian, arty, etc.

Best Way To Get Around:

Use public transport at all times, there really isn't anywhere in London you can justify having a car. Avoid taxis if at all possible, and if you take one at night make sure it's a licenced black cab and not an illegal mini-cab. Buy yourself a copy of London A-Z, about 5-6 pounds in most bookstores. It has train and tube maps and large scale maps of central London. Street names are sometimes hard to find, look up, down, in shrubs, etc.!

My friend and I just wanted food badly, and this was a welcome find. They have separate non-smoking seating upstairs, but you have to go through the smoking area to get to it! We went on a Wednesday night, so it wasn't too crowded, and there was a mix of young and old, couples and some families (but no terribly young children).

The prices were reasonable and even on our tight budget we got a bottle of wine to share. The cannelloni was excellent, rivaling my favorite restaurant in south London.

My friend and I have gone twice for weekday lunches. Service was excellent the first time, but not so much the second time. This would be a nice place to go to lunch in between sights, as it is right near Green Park tube stop.

They have all kinds of nibbles in single portions or larger for sharing (I like the tomato and goat cheese bruschetta), sandwiches, and larger main meals. It is reasonably priced; the most expensive item on the menu was a steak at £11. As for the cuisine, it's a bit of everything and it shouldn't be hard to find something you like!

Decor is a lot of dark, polished wood. Non-smoking seating is available.

What can you really say about a place that charges $2.50 for a Diet Coke? This is a tourist trap off of Leicester Square, so we should have known better.

I had the caprino (goat cheese) pizza, which was nice, not spectacular. The menu was fairly bog-standard Italian, nothing particularly special. The olives and bread on the table were a nice touch, but this ain't America - you don't get anything for free. We got our bill and were surprised to find a $1.75 cover charge per person, which we assume paid for the olives/bread. So after my husband and I spent $8.50 on two sodas and some olives/bread we hadn't ordered, I'm not likely to give this place a favourable review.

You can get better, cheaper Italian food at La Pasta in Bromley, and if you're in Leicester Square, you'd be better off heading to Chinatown for a reasonably priced meal after a evening in the pub!

London Zoo is big, and you'll get tired walking around all day, especially if you are chasing after small children. However, they have a nice (if slightly expensive) cafe to have a meal in and get off your feet for a while, and there are always benches to sit down and rest. Best would be to bring your own lunch and beverages, as the soda machines are WAY expensive. They are only open from 10am-5:30pm in summer, and only till 4pm in winter, so go early, or you'll miss a lot. It's a lovely place to wander around.

HILARIOUS! This is an American/Canadian three-man show where they go through the complete works of Shakespeare in 90 minutes. It involves men in dresses and wigs, lots of running around and falling down, and generally taking liberties with the bard. My personal favorite is them doing Hamlet in 10 seconds. They also do two other shows, "The Bible: The Complete Word of God" and "The Complete History of America", both treated in a similar manner. Those play only on Tuesday and Thursday evenings (can't remember which one on which night though). This is probably one of the least expensive shows you can go see in London.

The Museum of London is the largest city museum in the world, according to its website. It took me two visits to explore it thoroughly, as it goes from prehistoric to the present -- but that's okay because it's free! There is just so much information and so much to look at -- I learned a ton about my new home. It’s probably not all that exciting for small children, but older ones should be interested. They also have interactive learning stations by the Lord Mayor's Carriage on the ground floor.

The museum is well hidden, a bit hard to find. Go to either Barbican or St Paul's tube stops and look for the signs. The museum entrance is actually located in the network of walkways called the Barbican, up above street level. Just walking through those can be an adventure!

An absolutely brilliant show! If I were rich, I'd go again and again. You've never heard the f-word sung so many times in your life! Basic plot: In the first act is Jerry's show, with the usual suspects: the cheating guy, the guy who likes to wear diapers, the fat lady who wants to pole-dance, a tap-dancing Ku Klux Klan member. . . Then Jerry gets shot, goes to hell, and has to put on a show for Satan, with Jesus as the guest. It is absolutely HYSTERICAL! Beyond the content, the performers are great--wonderful voices, great dancers, and the sets are good too. It’s a MUST for any open-minded lover of musical theatre! If you are under 25 years of age, you can get tickets for £25, but otherwise it will be more expensive. We were in the balcony, but it wasn't too bad up there.

You’ll get a spectacular view of London if you are willing to climb 530 steps up to the Golden Gallery! I'm completely out of shape, but was forced to do it anyway--glad I did though. The Whispering Gallery is fun if you go with a friend, but it's a bit of a misnomer--you have to actually speak, not whisper. Still, it’s very amusing to be talking to someone on the other side of the dome like they're next to you and having voices seemingly coming out of the walls. The crypt and cathedral floor are very interesting, but you should know a bit of London/British history to enjoy them fully. It’s probably not for little kids -- they'll be bored, loud, and annoying to other visitors.

I went with a friend in late January 2003, right when it reopened after its annual repairs. It’s best to order tickets online (there are tons of internet cafes in London where you can do this, if you don't book before you arrive). Then you won't have to stand in a queue for ages to get tickets and then queue again for the actual ride. It is sponsored by British Airways, so they keep calling it a "flight", though there is no free soda or peanuts. The ride lasts about 45 minutes, but it doesn't feel that long (unless you have to go to the toilet maybe). I would say an overcast day is better, as the sun creates a glare that makes it difficult to see. I knew a lot of the sights, but wish I'd bought one of those maps that helps you identify everything before I got on. I'm sure they charge something extortionate, but I'd buy it for £6 or under if I went again.

I don't know exactly what I was expecting, but I came out of this a bit disappointed. I have read a lot of Sherlock Holmes, but I describe myself as a diehard fan or anything. Thus, the museum was more than I wanted to spend (£6) for not a whole lot that was of interest.

The place is a small house decked out in the Victorian style, as though it were the fictional character's residence, complete with bored, spotty teens decked out in period garb. For your £6, you can look around, but there isn't any guided tour or anything. The gift shop was more entertaining than the actual attraction, and you can go in that for free!

I'd only recommend this if you are an obsessive Sherlock Holmes fan; otherwise don't waste the 6 quid.

If you love British history like I do, you'll be able to spend hours here. Admission is free, which is always a favourite with me! Ideally, you should start with the Tudors up on the second floor and work your way chronologically through the gallery. However, if you read everything like I do, you probably will be too full of information to handle it all in one go. I think I made it through part of the Victorian section on the first floor and then gave up after 2.5 hours. I still need to go back and see the rest!

The practical bits:
The nearest tube stop is Charing Cross or Leicester Square. Opening times are 10-6pm daily, with late nights ‘til 9pm on Thursday and Friday. Since it's one of the few attractions open in the evening, I suggest going then and saving the daytime for other activities.

This was a treat for my mum, who's a public health nurse back in the US. The museum is quite small, but an excellent history lesson for those who've heard of "The Lady with the Lamp" and never understood what a huge contribution Nightingale made to nursing and public health. Through small exhibits, there is a chronicle of Nightingale’s life with some of her possessions and other period items. The day we went, there was a school group of 7- and 8-year -olds, and they were all having a great time, so I'd say it's family friendly as well. It's an absolute must for the nurse in your life!

I've done this tour twice now, and I think I've finally figured out how to get the best out of the 24-hour ticket. Go to the Tower of London as early in the morning as you can (see my other review). When you've finished there, go buy your bus tickets or get your e-tickets validated from the rep at the bus stop near the tower. Then go back to the tower pier and take the free boat ride that is included with your tour. This way, you'll see all the same bits as the bus tour when it goes along the embankment, but from the water, which is really the way this part of London should be seen!

You'll be let off at Westminster, where you can then board the bus tour. Make sure to get on the red route, as this is the one with the live commentary in English, and it takes you to all the major sights. You'll probably have to switch buses or get a new driver at Green Park, as this is where the tour officially "begins," but use the 15 minutes or so to use the toilets in the station and get yourself a snack. Then stay on and see all you can see until they kick you off for the day (usually 5 or 6pm).

As you have a 24-hour ticket, the next morning, you can get on the blue route and see what the red route misses. It's not much, but if you're not sick to death of the bus, you may want to do it. I realize I haven't said much about the tour itself, but it's pretty standard, usually with funny commentary, loads of history, and a great way to see and learn a lot in a short period of time.

It is absolutely stunning, with loads of history. Tickets can be bought online from several places or from tourist information sites, so check around for the best deal. Depending on how in-depth you want to explore, allow anywhere from 2 to 3 hours to the entire day for this attraction.

When you first arrive, wait for the next tour by one of the "Beefeaters" to start. If you've come in the middle of one, you will end up at the back and it can be hard to hear and follow. They usually start at least every half- hour, more often during peak season. The Beefeaters are extremely knowledgeable about the history of the tower, and they are not just tour guides, as they actually live at the tower and perform official duties as well.

A tour will take about 1 hour, and then you will be on your own to explore further. It may be a bit hard if anyone in your party has difficulty with stairs or walking long distances, so allow extra time if this is the case. You'll probably want to see the Crown Jewels right after the tour, which takes approximately 20 to 30 minutes, as you're somewhat shuffled through there by moving walkways. It’s still very impressive, though.

Once you've done the tour and seen the jewels, you can safely leave with the knowledge that you've hit the best bits. There is a café if you're feeling a bit peckish, but it is somewhat overpriced and you'd be better off eating outside.

My strong recommendation is to hit this attraction early in the morning and stay for a few hours, and then have a go on the Big Bus Tour (see my entry on that). This way, you can relax a bit on the bus after trooping around the tower all morning, and you'll see most of the major sights and decide what you want to explore further.

Wow, and I thought the crypt in St Paul's Cathedral was impressive! The only way to describe this place is crowded. There are unimaginable numbers of famous/noble/royal people buried in the abbey, and you can't move an inch without being right on top of one of them! And the time span! I saw graves of people from the 11th century right up to the 20th. It's absolutely amazing. It gives you a real sense of how old this country is. It’s a definitely must.

I'd never seen this show before, so I wasn't sure what to expect. In London, this is really played as a kid’s musical, so if you're looking for culture and dressing up to go somewhere, you may want to find another musical! There was an entire school group of 10-year-olds in attendance, plus lots of casually dressed families with youngish children.

That being said, it's a nice show, but I wouldn't need to see it again. The theatre itself is in a very ‘70s style and not particularly impressive. The understudy was playing Joseph, but he did a very good job. I've since read that he is taking over the role permanently since Darren Day quit. All in all, it’s not a bad way to spend an evening.

The performance itself didn't quite live up to my expectations for seeing Pirates of Penzance live, but perhaps I've been building it up too long! However, the Coliseum is absolutely gorgeous inside; this is a place you'll feel like getting dressed up to go! That being said, we went in jeans and trainers, as this was an unplanned venture. Tickets were available for this show from the half-price ticket booth in Leicester Square for only £16, so I couldn't pass it up. To check what's on at the English National Opera, use their website at www.eno.org.

Billed as the fastest and greatest of the tea clipper ships, this is a pleasant afternoon diversion if you're in the Greenwich area. The ship is over 130 years old, and there is currently an appeal to help with restoration costs. You can explore two decks inside, as well as the outer deck, and there are exhibits and writings from the time of the ship's running that describe life on the ship.

Small children might not have the attention span for some of it, but the kids who were there at the same time as me were just having a good time running around and climbing up and down between the decks! Allow about 1 hour for it.

Opening Times: 10am to 5pm every day of the week.
Admission Costs: £4.50 for adults, £3.20 for children

Having been to London as a tourist, and then living and working here for over a year, I think I have some unique insight on seeing the city without bothering the natives. Thus, my Dos and Don'ts:

DO
1. Watch your volume level in public places. There are two main reasons for this. First, you annoy natives when you are overly boisterous. Look around when you're on London public transport--hardly anyone talks, most read their paper or book, trying to pretend none of the others exist. Please help keep up the illusion by talking quietly to your companions. Also, if you seem distracted and are obviously foreign by your accent, you make yourself a target for pickpockets.

2. Stand to the RIGHT side on the escalators. The left is reserved for people who think they are more important/busier/athletic than you and feel the need to sprint up the stairs. Standing to the left will most likely get you nudged politely or shoved violently, depending on how close to rush hour it is. Also make sure you have your ticket ready to put through the gate machines--nothing annoys people more than someone fumbling in their wallet/coat for a ticket when a queue is building up.

3. Remember you are in another country. While we speak the same language, the culture and lifestyle is different. Try to learn something from the experience rather than complaining. Yes, things are expensive, there are no free refills, customer service is practically non-existent, the pubs close at 11pm--it ain't home. But if you wanted things to be like home, you should have stayed there!

DON'T
1. Stop in the middle of the pavement to pull out your map/guidebook or gawk at a poster/sign/busker. You wouldn't just stop suddenly on a motorway in your car, and London sidewalks (pavement as it's known here) should be treated the same. Pull over to the side and let everyone else go by. In fact, I advise looking at your maps and orienting yourself while in the toilet. Then you come out and look like you know where you're going, unlike most tourists.

2. Assume everyone is friendly and knows the location of London's major tourist attractions. This is not to say Londoners are NOT friendly, just that some aren't, and the more mean-spirited might knowingly give you wrong information. If you need to ask directions, instead of just stopping a random person, ask a bus conductor, a shop worker (make sure to buy something first!), or someone involved in working with the public. They are more likely to know the answer, and less likely to be annoyed that you asked.

3. Try to get an early start. You're on holiday for Pete's sake! Also, commuters OWN public transport before 9:30am on the weekdays. You don't want to get caught in that mob, and travelcards are more expensive if bought before 9:30am. This is the reason most tourist attractions don't even open until 10 or 10:30am--they don't WANT you to be there early! Have a leisurely breakfast at/near your hotel, and save any travel till after 9:30.

4. Give money to beggars. You only encourage them to continue, which makes the problem worse. Try not to make eye contact or speak (your accent will give you away as foreign). Beggars here generally aren't aggressive like they are in some cities, so they will usually leave you alone if you just ignore them. If you feel you must give someone money, give it to the men and women selling a weekly magazine called The Big Issue. It allows homeless or vulnerably housed men and women to earn a living selling something that is always a good read. It costs 1.20, and 70p of that goes to the person selling it. You can give them more if you like, just say "keep the change".

Public transport in London is not too hard to get to grips with if you are staying for an extended period. However, if you've only got a week, you should try to orient yourself before you get there! Have a look at the Transport for London website at for maps, prices, etc. They also have a great journey planner that has been my guide for the past year. I've gone over some of the basics of travel in London below.

London is divided into 6 travel Zones. It's easiest to think of a giant circle, with Zone 1 being a patch in the centre, and Zones 2-6 radiating outward. Most tourist attractions and major hotels will be in Zone 1 or 2.

First off, I'll say you MUST get a travelcard to do sightseeing. It's almost guaranteed that the amount of travelling you'll do will make the cost of a travelcard a bargain. You can buy them daily or weekly, depending on the length of your stay. If you buy a daily travelcard on weekdays, make sure you do it after 9:30am, otherwise you'll be charged more for peak use. If you buy your daily or 3-day travelcard in advance, ask for an off-peak and plan not to travel until after 9:30. Weekly travelcards do not have this restriction, but best to leave peak time to the commuters anyway. If you want to be really cheap, buy a bus pass. It might take you longer to get places, but you'll see more and avoid the Tube.

Travelcards can be bought from machines at rail or Tube stations, or from ticket windows. Some machines will take credit cards.

Types of Transport:

1. Buses: Central London buses are now pre-pay, you can get tickets from the machines at each stop. Better yet, buy a bus pass for unlimited journeys. Daily bus passes are available from the machines.

2. Underground Rail or "Tube": Made up of several different "Lines", can usually get you to any major tourist attraction. Travelcards are a must, make sure you have the appropriate zones to get where you're going (see "zone extensions" under the Overground Rail section).

3. Docklands Light Rail (DLR): Exclusive to East London, plenty of links with the Underground. You can also use travelcards, provided you have the right zones.

4. Over ground Rail (also "National Rail", "British Rail"): If you're sticking to London for your trip you probably won't use these trains much besides the journey from the airport. Travelcards are also good on these, but make sure you're only going within the zones you've paid for. For instance, if you have a zone 1-2 travelcard and you want to take a trip out to something in zone 4, you will need to buy a "zone extension". At the ticket window you should say you need "a zone extension from zone 2 to zone 4, return". You will get two tickets, one for your outward journey and one for coming back, only good on that day.

5. Taxi: Taxi stands are all around the city, major stations or hotels will usually have them. Try to avoid using cabs if you can, as they are very expensive. You are not expected to tip (they carry change). Black Cab drivers are famous for having "The Knowledge", meaning they studied London geography extensively and should know the fastest way from point A to B better than anyone. Despite this reputation, I've twice experienced drivers who either really had no clue, or pretended they didn't so as to charge more. Don't get into the cab until you've told the driver where you want to go and confirmed that they know the location and are willing to go there.

Top Tips for using public transport:

Double decker buses are great for cheaply seeing the sights. The Number 11 goes by almost as many sights as the tour buses and only costs one pound twenty pence. However, they are very hot in the summer (no a/c) so you won't want to stay on for long. Make sure to bring water with you.

Tube during the summer is also very warm and sticky (again no a/c). Bring water, and get off to get some air if you feel ill.

Don't give your used tickets to the "touts" in or outside stations. It's illegal and could get you into trouble, and these people are basically scam artists looking to make quick cash buy selling your ticket on to someone who is stupid enough to buy it.

Keep your travelcard somewhere on your person where it won't get lost, but it is easily accessible. There's nothing more irritating than getting stuck behind someone who is searching for their ticket!

London can be extremely expensive for visitors, especially those from the US given that the pound is incredibly strong against the dollar right now! If you don't particularly care about WHAT you eat and just need sustenance while you tour around, here are some hints for doing it:

Breakfast: Obviously this depends on where you're staying. If you're in a B&B, you've got it covered, and a full English breakfast will probably be on the menu. If this is not the case, your best bet is to look locally for a "greasy spoon" café. Most will do a full English (eggs, sausage, beans, tomato and/or mushroom, and toast) breakfast for under £4. While I've never understood the English thing of beans for breakfast, they do have something there—they are low-fat and a good source of protein. And now that I've tried it, I'm a convert. Two slices of toast with beans shouldn't be too expensive in one of these cafés, under £2, and you'll be good till lunchtime!

Lunch: The easiest thing here is to pop into a pub. Many, particularly around the Westminster and City areas, will have two-for-one specials on certain meals. Sometimes there are time restrictions on these, so check first. You can always find sausages and mashed potatoes on the menu (bangers and mash), which will fill you right up. For vegetarians, most pubs will do baked potatoes (jacket potato) with different toppings. Prices in pubs tend to be reasonable, though chains such as Weatherspoons may be a bit pricier.

If it's a nice day and you don't want to eat inside, a local sandwich bar should do the trick, particularly around areas where people work in central London, where they're everywhere. Usually they have all different types of sandwich fillings on display, and you choose the kind of bread you'd like. They'll also have cans of soda/bottled water/juice and a selection of crisps (chips). You can get standard things like roast beef, chicken, or ham, or they have salad/spread things premixed, like coronation chicken (delicious!), cheese and onion, prawn and mayo, and many more.

All I have to say is, DON'T eat at McDonald’s or Starbucks! At least try a more local chain, like Benjy’s. They have very nice panninis they'll heat up for you and all sorts of sandwiches. Generally avoid eating lunch in coffeehouse places--the food is usually quite overpriced. Also, you can always pop into a local supermarket like Sainsburys or Tesco Metro and get sandwiches, drinks, etc., and take it to a local park.

Dinner: AVOID anything in Leicester Square! (See my review for Little Italy to find out why). Most restaurants have menus posted outside, so check prices before you go in. Chinatown in Soho is a good place for cheap food, as is Brick Lane for cheap Indian. A warning about Brick Lane, though: if you don't like haggling, you'll probably want to avoid it! Each restaurant has someone outside trying to tempt you in with offers of free drinks or a percentage off your meal. The free drinks may sound tempting, but they won't give you very much! It’s better to find one that will give you a higher percentage off your meal--20% is their standard offer, but try to get 30%. Chinatown is a bit similar as far as people trying to tempt you in, but there’s not much haggling.

Chains like Wagamama's or Miso will do a big bowl of noodles for under £7. And again, you can also look to the pubs, though they won't have the same deals as at lunchtime. I don't find buffets of any kind to be that great here, but if you don't mind sitting around and waiting and then elbowing people out of your way, the Deep Pan Pizza company has a fairly cheap buffet and the pizza is okay. Trouble is, every time I've been there, they can't keep up, and the pizza pans sit empty while they're making more (they just don't seem to plan well!). A dinner buffet is around £6 to £7, plus a soda. Refills aren't free at most places in London, and they'll gouge you on the drinks anyway (a diet Coke will be £1.50 to £2.50 in central London). You can ask for water, but be specific that you want tap water, or you may get bottled at a very high price. You may get a glare/sigh, but oh well, you're trying to do this on a budget, right?