Ljubljana for a Day

Ljubljana is a jewel of medieval, baroque, and Renaissance architecture, still unknown to many travelers. The city is an educational and culural center surrounded by northern Dinaric Alps and sweeping landscapes reminiscent of Swiss terrain. With its many students, cafes, lovers, and vibrant arts scene, comparisons have been made with Paris.

Not to be missed is the city's visual focal point, the ancient Castle and medieval fortress whose foundations date back to Roman times. Climb the hill to see it, stop for refreshments at the cafe, then climb the spiral stairs to the tower for a sweeping view of the city below. The light at dusk is the best. Then explore the Old Town at the foot of the castle hill with its winding streets, fascinating shops, restaurants and cafes, baroque buildings and photogenic views. The Town Hall dating from the Renaissance, the ornate St. Nikolas Cathedral, and Francesca Robba's fountain near the Three Bridges that span the Ljubljanica River are among the best sites in the vicinity. Near the university is the glittering Cankarjev Dom, Ljubljana's famed cultural and performing arts center.

Quick Tips:

Off-season is a good time to see Ljubljana when there are fewer crowds and the city is more relaxed. The locals are visitor-friendly and the Tourist Information desk at the train station will find you a place to stay, whether it be a hotel, pension or campsite, and provide an easy-to-use map of the best places to see, explore, or dine.

Best Way To Get Around:

Ljubljana is a very walkable city, so the best way to see it is on foot. Taxis and city buses are other options.

This centrally-located hotel is near enough to the Old Town to walk there, and it is well-equipped to take care of travelers, with most of the conveniences you'd expect of a large hospitality chain. The hotel restaurants are fine, but the more picturesque dining choices are located in the Old Town. Because Ljubljana has such a wide range of accommodation choices (although they are often booked during peak travel season), ask at the Tourist Information desk at the train station (or airport) for recommendations in the category of your choice for accomodations. For instance: Hotels; pensions, including the smaller, less expensive hotels which often include breakfast as part of the reservation; motels; hostels; even campsites. Or call ahead to the Association of Tourist Farms of Slovenia at: 00386 (0) 3 491 64 30 for a relaxing stay with a farm family in the beautiful countryside nearby.

In the shadow of the baroque Town Hall on Mestri Trg is Rotovz, one of Ljubljana's best restaurants. Here, leisurely meals, prepared with attention to detail, are served in an elegant and historic room, with linen tablecloths, fresh flowers and candlelight. We enjoyed a fish and vegetable melange, delectably done and artfully presented, chosen from an extensive menu and wine list. The wait staff was attentive and gracious, and the other dining room guests were friendly. The price was not exorbitant--about $29.00 excluding wine and dessert. This is not a place to go for a quick bite. Relax, and enjoy, the civilized, slow, preferred Slovenian way.

One of Slovenia's best ski resorts, Maribor--a 2 1/2 hour drive from Ljubljana--has cross-country trails and downhill runs for every skill level. In this landscape, you will see one of the reasons why Slovenia has produced world-class skiers. The challanges are evident, but so are Mirabor's facilities for mere beginners and intermediates. The ski and snowboarding schools will get you up and going and there are sled runs for a change of pace. The scenery is magnificent, even if you visit before the snow season.

Ljubljana's Old Town is the best place to be for sightseeing, quaintness, charm, Old Europe ambiance, and Ljubljana's own brand of special individuality. The narrow, winding streets are lined with centuries-old buildings, many of which are now converted into sparkling specialty shops and boutiques. You can spend hours just looking at these. There are many inviting cafes in this section of town, some along the Ljubljanica River, some in the oldest streets. It's very Parisian in feel at night with the cafes full of students and the restaurants bustling with activity. There are dozens of good places to choose for dining, from the cafes, to cozy, unpretentious trattorias, to the more upscale restaurants. The prices are reasonable in all of these. There is so much to see along the river and in the Old Town that entertainment probably won't be uppermost on your mind, but if it is, there are two or three jazz clubs whose posters you will see along the streets, and for classical music buffs, there are programs at the Opera House and the sparkling new Cankarjev Dom--Ljubljana's famous cultural and performing arts center. For students, there are many pubs and nightspots which were packed on a weeknight evening in October. Serendipitous discovery works well here.