Vieques: A Unique Caribbean Jewel

Vieques is getting lots of attention in the media these days, and for good reason. In May 2003, the US Navy finally left after many years. While the island was always beautiful and off-the-beaten-path, it has now started to really come into its own. It's truly unique: no casinos, nightclubs or McDonalds. Not even a single traffic light! It's old-world Caribbean, the way I've heard things used to be -- a slower, relaxed, non-commercialized way of life, and really just paradise on earth.

I've been to Vieques five times, and it's just beautiful: spectacular beaches, lush green scenery and vegetation, wild horses grazing everywhere you turn, and two small, charming towns to visit and explore. My favorite places in Vieques include:

- Any spot along the astonishingly beautiful and empty strip of sand known as Blue Beach

- Strolling along the Malecon (or promenade) in Esperanza and stopping for a lunch of fresh seafood at Bananas cafe

- Sipping a local beer at Al's Mar Azul in Isabel Segunda, which overlooks the sparkling Caribbean Sea with views of Culebra and St. Thomas

- Watching the sunset from the Blue Bar at the Inn on the Blue Horizon, one of the prettiest and most sociable bars on the island

Quick Tips:

Book your accommodations and car rental well in advance - especially the car. Vieques has many more guest rooms than cars available to rent, and you will need one. Cars and jeeps sell out weeks and sometimes months in advance.

If the place you're staying does not provide coolers, spend a couple of dollars and buy one for your stay at the local grocery. The beaches don't have food stalls or vendors, so you'll want to bring your own sandwiches and drinks for the afternoon.

Best Way To Get Around:

By far the best way to get around Vieques is to rent a four-wheel drive vehicle like a Jeep. The best beaches on the island require a bit of rugged driving to get to, and you won't regret it.

The other way to get around is by using "publicos" or shared taxis. They're cheap and convenient to get you from airport or ferry to your guesthouse, but otherwise, you'll want your own transportation.

Finally, it's fun to rent a bike to explore the island via its paved routes, but don't plan on getting to the best beaches by bicycle. Even a mountain bike couldn't tackle some of the rugged paths!

We had heard that accommodations in Vieques could be either very expensive and great, or dirt cheap but of questionable quality. We wanted a place with a kitchen and grill so we could opt to stay in some nights and cook our own dinner, or prepare lunches for the beach. We found Casa Ladera online, and decided to give it a try. It was perfect!

Casa Ladera is actually a rental house, and we had the one-bedroom "casita" or small apartment, which fit us just right. It consisted of a bedroom, private bathroom, living room and kitchenette.

The rooms were very nice, clean and charming. But the best part was the pool, the beautiful grounds, and the proximity to the beach! You can walk just about one minute down a path to a really pretty beach, which has views of the neighboring islands. It's not the nicest beach on Vieques, but it's great to walk along, take a dip, or just spend some time sitting and looking out at the fantastic views.

The swimming pool is massive and perfect for a dip after a day at the beach. The temperature is kept warm enough, but not too warm, and there's a big pool bar to hang out in and relax in the shade. There were even glimpses of the ocean from the pool and out our casita door.

Casa Ladera had all the amenities we wanted, plus a washer/dryer for our dirty, sandy clothes and towels. The location was perfect; just a few minutes away from Isabel Segunda, the main town, and a decent grocery store so we could stock up. I would definitely recommend staying at Casa Ladera! Check out their web site at www.casa-ladera.com.

Chez Shack is a favorite restaurant of many folks who live in Vieques. Six nights a week, the restaurant features phenomenal Caribbean fusion cuisine, that is, lots of fresh fish and seafood, steak and chicken, prepared with local flavors and spices, all delicious and bursting with flavor. The seventh night -- Monday -- is Grill Night. Chef Tony takes a night off, all food is thrown onto a massive grill, and an all-you-can-eat gourmet salad bar is included with your meal. A steel band plays, room is cleared for a dance floor, and a very festive atmosphere ensues.

On any night, the atmosphere of Chez Shack is great, and is described by the name of the place itself. It's a combination of upscale and down-home like you've never seen. You're driving along Route 995, which snakes through dense forest and over hills, passing cows, horses and chickens along the way. Suddenly, when it seems you're never going to find this crazy place, you'll see a long line of cars parked leading up to. . . something. That's Chez Shack! Lit up in the middle of the tropical overgrowth is a wooden-platformed, tin-roofed structure with lots of warm light, incredible aromas and good conversation going on inside. The walls are all open to the outdoors, and as soon as you walk in you feel comfortable and in good hands.

Try the scallops as an appetizer and if they have it, the crusted mahi mahi as an entree. The ribs are delicious too! A great wine selection and a fun little bar round out this perfect restaurant. Plan to spend a few hours at Chez Shack as you'll probably end up in conversation with your neighbors - it's that kind of place! We made new friends every night we went.

Bananas is the quintessential Caribbean beach bar and cafe. It sits right on the "Malecon" or promenade, in Esperanza, which is the smaller of the two towns in Vieques. The Malecon features lots of small, cheap guesthouses, casual restaurants and small bars, and it's fun to walk up and down with the Caribbean Sea stretching out to one side, and the bars and cafes on your other side.

Bananas is great for an after-beach drink (try a Strawberry Daiquiri with fresh berries crushed right in - yum!) and a burger or big salad. For something a little fancier, try the Red Snapper or Jerk Chicken Club.

The atmosphere is great: friendly and very relaxed. It's a large, open-air space with a big bar off to one side and the restaurant on the other, with nice views of the ocean as you eat or drink and relax.

Photos are coming soon, I promise!

The Inn on the Blue Horizon is a beautiful guesthouse in Vieques that has both a bar that serves food as well as a separate restaurant. The Blu Bar is stunning, and we actually preferred it over the more formal dining room of the restaurant (the Blue Macaw).

As you approach the Blu Bar, walking down a path that snakes alongside a massive boulder and past a gigantic fanned-out palm tree (called a traveler palm), you realize you're in for a treat. The thatched roof and gorgeous ocean views are quintessential tropical style; the soft lighting, wicker sofas, and funky modern accessories make this bar unique and welcoming.

We liked sitting at either the bar or one of the casually arranged sofa/table areas, and ordering a few appetizers to munch on while enjoying the sunset and a tropical drink. The brick-oven pizzas are excellent, as is all the fresh seafood. Locals and visitors treat this place almost like it's their living room, with people bouncing from table to table to say hello to friends. The service is friendly and the drinks are great--what more could you really want? Not much!

Red Beach and Blue Beach are definitely my two favorite beach spots in Vieques. These are the beaches the Navy used for recreation before they left Vieques in 2003, and they sure kept the best ones to themselves!

They're similar in shape and look: both are huge crescents of powdery white sand, leading into crystal-clear water that turns shades of turquoise and green as it gets deeper. You can walk out a good few dozen feet before the water gets too deep to stand, and just enjoy the gentle waves lapping around you.

Both beaches are framed by gently rolling green hills in the near distance. You can also see some small, uninhabited islands and outcroppings not too far offshore, which I've never ventured out to, but would like to someday.

Snorkeling here is excellent: you won't get the variety or colors that a coral reef or rocky pier would afford, but you will see stingrays, schools of smaller fish, and possibly even a dolphin if you go out far enough!

In my opinion, Blue Beach is a bit better and worth the extra 5 minutes' drive - it's almost always virtually empty, and even when it's not, you'll be 100 feet from the next person over. Remember to bring food and water to any beaches in Vieques, as there are no refreshment stands around!

Al's Mar Azul is definitely one of my favorite places to have a drink in Vieques. It's perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea, with unbroken views of the ocean and horizon. You can see mainland Puerto Rico and Culebra Island in the distance - it's a gorgeous view.

The atmosphere is super-relaxed and friendly. You'll strike up a conversation with the bartender, a fellow patron, or Al himself, who's usually parked at the bar reading the paper. A native of Westerley, Rhode Island, Al is quite the character, especially on a raucous Saturday night.

Have a cocktail or a beer - Medalla is the best; it's a local beer and I believe just $2.50. Play pool, video games or darts, put some music on the jukebox, and sit outdoors on the deck or inside at a table. Make sure to check out the tiny Al's Gift Shop where you can buy a customized ice-scraper for your car. You'll be using it a week after you get back home, dreaming of your next trip back to Vieques!