Half Century in the Island of Women

The exchange rate was 1 US Dollar to 10.96 Pesos or 100 Pesos to .12 at the time of our visit. We found two exchange windows in the downtown area, offering to 10.65 Pesos (closest to the Plaza) and 10.50 Pesos (behind Fredy’s restaurant). We noticed four ATM machines in the downtown area and only used the two in the bank (just across from the ferry landing). Our bank charged us an ATM fee, but gave us 100 Pesos for .20 – by far the best exchange rate. We only found one restaurant that accepted credit cards and very few merchants that took plastic. Many were willing to take US dollars at an exchange rate of to 10 Pesos – a generous exchange rate, but a simple math calculation by just moving the decimal over one position. Our bankcard worked in the bank ATM, but we heard issues from other tourists when using the ATM in the main grocery store. Sometimes the card would work and other times it would not.

The annual Festival begins the Friday before Ash Wednesday and ends on Fat Tuesday, with partying, dancing, excellent food and drink every evening. We did not realize our trip coincided with this wonderful celebration, adding to our excitement and appreciation of the local culture.

Quick Tips:

Do not, I repeat, do not dispose your toilet paper in the commode, but throw it in the wastebasket. For nearly 50 years, I have been tossing my paper in the toilet and suddenly that lifelong ingrained habit must change as to not clog nor impact the delicate water and pipe system on the island. The challenge came when I realized that I had incorrectly disposed of my paper. Do I fish it out or chance the amount of paper will flush undetected?

I should have packed our small insulated lunch bags. Several beers and Coca Cola Lights could have stayed frosty cold for at least half a day while we parked on the beaches. I did buy an overpriced Styrofoam cooler and dealt with the bulkiness just to keep beer cold. After several warm beers from the beach bars, I found the smaller grocery stores offered cold beer to my liking.

We should have brought more individual packets of Wet Wipes for our hands. They were well appreciated those times when we forgot about the correct way to dispose of toilet paper!

Best Way To Get Around:

We scheduled round-trip transportation from Cancun airport to Puerto Juares with BestDay before leaving the States. BestDay had operators just outside the airport building, easily recognized in their uniforms, taking us in a clean and air-conditioned vehicle to the Ultramar. They determined the pickup time from the ferry based on our return flight and the ferry schedule. They handled all the details and transportation for .

Ultramar, the newest ferry from mainland Mexico to Isla Mujeres, leaves just about every half hour, costing 70 Pesos round trip. "Yes, purchase round-trip tickets," my wife said. "We have to return sometime."

Once on the island, our suitcases were carried in a tricycle-type vehicle by a young man who only worked for tips. We slowly walked through the downtown area to the northeastern section where our hotel was located. The slow-paced approach to our hotel was a perfect beginning to our relaxing vacation.

We walked nearly everywhere, taking taxis a few times to visit the southern side of the island. Many people rented golf carts ( a day) or mopeds ( a day). See my free form journal entry on "getting around" for more information and stories.

The seclusion and privacy of Playa la Media Luna hotel appealed to us. This hotel only had 18 rooms/suites, each with its own patio or balcony that faced the ocean. Playa la Media Luna sits on the Caribbean side of the island, just off the central section of downtown and conveniently just around the bend from Playa Norte.

Playa la Media Luna translates to Beach of the Half Moon. The beach outside the hotel is beautiful, but swimming is strictly limited to the “half moon” section between the rocks. The riptide or undertow is too strong on this side of the island, forcing swimmers to stay close to shore and within the red flag area.

Our room was on the second floor, spacious and clean. A small refrigerator sat next to the desk, and the television rested on the refrigerator. A set of drawers and rod for hanging clothes was on the other side of the bathroom door and I found the room safe tucked back in the corner.

One set of bath towels and washcloths sat in the bathroom. Towels for the beach were extra, but we found towels sitting just outside the lobby area and used them. Bottled water dispensers were on each floor, and we kept the water pitcher and water bottles filled in the refrigerator. Ice was non-existent except by making small cubes in the freezer section of the refrigerator.

With the high humidity, we used the room air conditioner occasionally. We preferred keeping the room cool by opening the balcony door and window, letting the ocean breeze in.

I walked to the lobby for coffee early each morning and carried it up to our room. My wife and I drank coffee on the balcony, watching the ocean for the beginning of each day. People walked along the beach, looking for shells washed to shore. Dogs wandered the beach and drank from the swimming pool to cool down. After waking up slowly, we moseyed down for a light breakfast before heading off for the day.

We joined different groups of people for breakfast. We learned most people selected this hotel for its location and reputation for privacy. Several couples were on their honeymoons having found this hotel listed on the web as one of the best for newlyweds.

On our first night while unpacking our suitcase, I uncovered a small pink and white striped sack which I did not pack. Hmmm. A birthday present, maybe? I peeked inside. HmmmMMM. Definitely a birthday present… Once again I assessed the room for privacy. With the window open for the cool breeze, the adjoining neighbor could peer into our room from their balcony. Knowing my wife would notice this possible intrusion, I draped a beach towel over our balcony railing, protecting the view of the bed in our room. Now the only possible invasion could be from an ocean vehicle with binoculars staring through our window. At most they would see a flash of pink and our own private moon.

We settled on the Playa Norte each night for the sunset. As the sun’s descent began, people gravitated from their hammocks and chairs, moving towards the shoreline to watch this beautiful performance. Cameras clicked and people applauded as the orb slowly disappeared beyond the water, leaving bright oranges, yellows and reds across the ocean.

I could have spent every day on the North Beach. Hotels have their beach section designated with chair and shaded areas for their guests, but plenty of open places for the numerous visitors. We camped near the northeastern side, just around the corner from our hotel. I paid 40 Pecos to rent wooden chairs for the day with an option to settle in the shade. The sand was white, smooth and free of seaweed. The water was cool in the morning and refreshing by midday. Boats clustered around the outside the swimming area, dropping off crowds of people for swimming in the shallow water.

Vendors occasionally strolled by asking us to purchase jewelry, scarves, clothing items and food. We were pleased that they were not pushy or aggressive. We bought a bag full of fresh sliced papaya and should have tried the fresh coconut from the vendor who cut off the top and filled it with adult beverages. Fisherman came around asking to schedule fishing expeditions and snorkeling adventures.

The bar at the far end of the beach offered two-for-one drinks and I always volunteered to walk the stretch of beach for refills. The attraction was not so much the lesser price drinks, but the scenery along the way. North Beach follows international rules and many female sunbathers were topless. Uninhibited, women removed their tops to capture every ray of sun. Women of all ages, unashamed of their bodies, showed themselves to the world.

Once when I returned with a round of drinks to the most beautiful woman on the beach, my wife was laying in the sun on her stomach. “Why don’t I unhook your swimsuit top so you don’t get line across your back?” I asked. “Then if you decide to go topless, you just have to roll over.” My wife turned her head towards me and gave me a look. I rubbed sunscreen on her back and continued, “When we travel, we try to blend in with the customs of that area. You know, when in Rome… So, when in Isla Mujeres…” She gave me another look. Was I making progress? I reached to tuck a stray lock of her hair up under her hat and attempted it again. “It is my birthday” I whispered, “Happy Birthday to me.” With my poorly sung stanza, my wife gave me a final look. And with that fellow travelers, I will let you decide the rest of the story.

We boarded the small boat, four passengers to each of the three benches. The captain rearranged our seating, moving my wife and me, along with another couple, to the back bench. These seats should provide a smoother ride, they said, reducing the chance for seasickness. "Keep focused on the horizon," one lady advised. I hoped her suggestion and the Dramamine tablet would work.

We left the cove, heading out to open seas. Several passengers turned to the back seat, sending encouraging signs and words. I was determined to make it back to Isla Mujeres with my lunch intact. After 15 minutes of the boat ride, I met a full-fledged challenge.

The brilliant blue and tranquil turquoise waters turned to an angry green. I recognized this weather warning, as the ocean matched the color of a Kansas sky just before a tornado. The winds picked up and I could feel the boat pushing against the waves to make progress across the water. No sign of Contoy Island behind us and no indication of Isla Mujeres ahead.

The white-capped waves slapped over the sides of the boat, soaking those of us sitting on the outside. My wife pulled her beach towel from the backpack, offering it to one of the wettest passengers. When her offer was declined, my wife wrapped the towel around the camera, hoping to protect this piece of equipment. Almost as soon as the camera was covered, the rain began. Already wet, the rain almost seemed immaterial. But at that point, I heard a new noise behind me. My wife looked and the first mate was bailing water out of the boat with a bucket. I glanced back and only counted six life jackets for the twelve passengers and two crew members.

My wife tensed beside me when the thunder cracked. We know what accompanies thunderstorms, and my wife was afraid. Focused on the horizon, I saw the first bolts of lightning crashing from the sky. I counted the seconds between the lightning and thunder to estimate the distance of the storm. I realized that I did not know the distance for lightning conductivity in the ocean. I quit counting.

As the lightning continued with increasing frequency, other passengers noticed. "Our asses are fried," one man bemoaned. Three young ladies sitting together screamed and pointed with each flash. The lady in front of me turned to check on my condition and then sang, "The tiny ship was tossed. If not for the courage of the fearless crew." Most of us laughed with the theme song to Gilligan’s Island. (Remember, I’m 50. I watched this show.)

The captain slowed the boat to better manage the waves and kept making progress. Finally, Isla Mujeres appeared in the distance, with the storm lessening as we moved closer to land. As soon as the boat docked, the captain yelled at everyone to exit. I jumped out and assisted the other passengers. We ran to land and laughed with relief for our safe arrival.

Visiting Contoy Island was a "must do" on our minimal list of activities. This uninhabited island is about 19 miles by boat from Isla Mujeres and is a Mexican National Park, set aside as a bird and animal reserve. The tour description detailed a 45-minute boat ride, stopping for snorkeling en route to the Contoy, catching fish for lunch, visiting the island and returning to Isla around 4pm.

The price between different tour groups did not vary, each asking $40 per person or 440 Pecos. We selected La Islena Tours on Morelos Avenue (just ½ block from the pier) since we found a 10% discount coupon on the isla-mujeres.net site. This lowered the price to 396 Pecos. Cash only. No plastic. The owner was not pleased when we presented our coupon and reluctantly subtracted the amount on our invoice. We signed a document guaranteeing our compliance with the use and safety of Contoy Island, protecting the environment and wildlife.

Everyone selected their snorkeling gear while at the tour building and then carried the equipment to the boat. We waited over an hour to obtain clearance due to the high winds and choppy waters. Finally the captain allowed us to step into the small boat and we took off for Contoy. We sat in a medium-sized boat, designed for 10 passengers. Due to rescheduling of tours, 12 people were squeezed in to the boat, forcing the captain and first mate to stand in the boat. The sun cover protected us from the heat as we trudged off to open sea.

The choppy water soon had its affect on me. One of the other passengers offered Dramamine but it was too late. I accepted her offer to take one before the return trip to Isla. Due to the high winds and late starting time, our tour did not stop for snorkeling or fishing. Our first stop was arrival on the island.

I jumped in the cool water to relieve my ailments and immediately felt better. While the captain grilled barracuda for lunch, we snorkeled in the bay area and swam with the friendly stingrays. My wife and I walked the nature paths on the island and perused the nature museum. Large collections of beautiful birds nested near a small pond towards the middle of the island. Iguanas and crabs sat on the paths, almost unafraid of humans. We carefully watched our steps to avoid the animals.

A storm passed over the island right when the captain announced lunch. He moved the buffet into a covered area next to the museum. We had fish, rice, corn tortillas and all the fixings. We had plenty to eat, relaxing while the dark rain clouds passed overhead.

We spent another hour sitting in the sun (sleeping in my case), swimming and snorkeling. We thought we had another hour on the island, but the captain insisted that we needed to pack up and leave now. We were in for another adventure.

Taxi
Cabs can be found from almost anywhere downtown and lined up at the beaches and tourist sites on the other end of the island. As with many taxi drivers, confirm the rate before getting into the vehicle. We found the rates very reasonable, with drivers asking for $5 or 540 Pecos to go from our hotel (near North Beach) to Garrafon Park located at the other side of the island. We paid $3 to ride from downtown to Playa Lancheros.

We enjoyed one particular cab ride. After walking around in the heat of the day, we flagged a cab. Ah, air conditioning. The friendly driver was quick to ask questions: where are you from, how long will you be on the island? He hoped we would talk with him. He learned to speak English by talking with tourists, striving to be bilingual which would ensure work opportunities. We responded to his questions. Learning our hometown is Kansas City, he immediately asked about Royals’ baseball and George Brett. We discussed the sport with his asking me for the correct pronunciation when needed. My wife then shared the story of our being on the island for my birthday and the cab driver extended his congratulations to me. My wife continued, asking the driver to teach us Spanish for “He is 50 years old.” The driver laughed and asked me to repeat after him, “Tengo cincuenta años.” I muttered the Spanish while my wife and the driver laughed. I glared at my wife who continued to giggle at my distress. The driver quickly commented that fifty is quite young and the correct phrase is “Tengo solamente cincuenta años.” Better. I gave the taxi driver a nice tip.

Golf Carts
Probably the favorite means for tourist travel is the golf cart. These easy to drive vehicles can be rented from numerous locations on the island, mostly ranging $45 for 24 hours. They can also be leased for smaller blocks of time, but at higher rates. We joined some other tourists and rode on the back seat of their vehicle, viewing the island one day. With a maximum speed of 30mph and the numerous speed bumps in the roads, travel was comfortable and easy. My wife kept the camcorder rolling as we rode along the shoreline and the video came out pretty good.

Mopeds
These scooters could also be rented for $30 by the day or lesser rates by the hour. We saw people riding single seaters and two seaters. We noticed island residents drove these vehicles with confidence and ease. As many as four of five people would be piled on a moped, all holding on to each other or the driver as they navigated their way around the island. With faster speeds than a golf cart, drivers of these smaller vehicles passed the carts even with oncoming traffic.

Bicycles
The few that we saw for rental were in such terrible condition that I wondered if they would make it down the block. We saw a sign in one rental company sternly warning to lock the bike as to prevent loss. We thought about a bicycle ride, but decided it would be too much work and worry.

Busses
There are busses that cover the circumference of the island. The cost is just a few Pecos to ride in an opened air type vehicle. Bus stops are designated and easy to find. The bus drove by our hotel several times a day with easy options for us to jump on. But we did not ride a bus, preferring another means of transportation.

Walking
Our favorite mode of “getting around” was walking. With the hotel located just a few blocks from downtown and North Beach only 90 seconds away, we walked to most of our destinations. Walking is relaxing and we were not in rush. We saw more people and more of the island as we spent time slowly going from place to place. I would work up just enough of a thirst to stop at the small grocery stores and buy a cold beer. I was able to find the store with the coldest drinks (on Lopez Mateos Street down from the Post Office) and try different brands of beer.

We managed the cobblestone streets while wearing flip-flops and used the sidewalks when strolling downtown. My wife had challenges with the graveled section outside our hotel. She slipped and fell the first full day, scrapping her hands and elbows. I lovingly helped her up and cleaned off the dirt and gravel. Extending my kindness, I refrained from any comments about her having a second drink on the beach which may have lead to inability to walk. Then the next morning, my wife slipped again in the very same spot. I caught her on the way down, preventing further injury or embarrassment. I sheepishly acknowledged my original thoughts and told her that it must be her leather bottomed sandals causing the slippage. I wrapped my arm around her whenever we walked over that section of gravel.