The New Berlin

Brandenburg Gate on Reunification Day (October 3), The Reischtag Dome, Jewish Museum, Potsdamer Platz, currywurst and french fries, Konig Pilsner, KadeWe, Haus am CheckPoint Charlie...For those of you looking for photos, I actually don't have my rolls developed yet. So check back in next week (Nov 13 week) and I should have them posted.

Quick Tips:

Berlin is HUGE. The eastern part is where all the new buildings, districts, restaurants, shops are coming up. We stayed in the western part, as we wanted to be closer to the Zoo station. Plan to spend at least 2-3 days there as there is much ground to cover.

Best Way To Get Around:

Transportation is very easy and efficient. Buses take you everywhere-when we asked for a bus map, the info booth guy laughed at me and said, there are too many bus lines in Berlin, it's impossible to put on a map. There are subways (U-bahn) and trains that run on regular tracks above ground (S-bahn). I would buy the day pass-it covers all transportation. The buses 100 and 200 are the tourist lines-for the price of a regular ride. Taxis were also reasonably priced-we decided to take one to the station and were not sticker-shocked. The Germans are known for their efficiency-even their trains have brochures for each line, with each stop detailed with possible connections to other towns. You will be impressed.

This is in an odd but convenient location. It's about 20 minute walk from Zoo train station, and only 5 minutes from KaDeWe department store and Kurfurstendamm, the main drag on the western side. It's in a residential district-so you feel like you are staying with friends. The rooms are really nice, with comfy down comforters and pillows (i guess standard for German accomodations) and modern clean bathrooms. The best thing is the breakfast. It runs until 11am, and there is a wide selection of cold cuts, cheeses, cereals, yogurt, juices, and more. The breakfast room is big and airy, with an array of newspapers. In the summer, there is a courtyard garden to sit in. There was always a fresh supply of food as they replenish so quickly. The staff at the reception is also very helpful.

The only downside is, you are not right in the middle of action. At night, you would have to walk back home. Howeverm there are supermarkets, cafes and bakeries all around, just like any nice residential neighbourhood. As two females traveling, we at no time felt unsafe. We actually enjoyed being away from the action, the peace and quiet after a full day's adventures.

Their website: www.arco-hotel.de

This is a typical self-service chain, like a cafeteria. But for us, it was such a nice break from the sausage and beer diet. We just needed vegetables! The salad bar there is really a bargain-you pick the size plate (3 sizes) and you just pile on the salad as much as you can. There is also a meat counter, pasta, asian counter and desserts and drinks. There is alot of seating. We had 2 big salads and a drink, and it was only 22 marks (around $10 at today's exchange rates) If you ever want something fast and good or just need a dose of vegies, this is the place for you!

At the top floor of this department store (supposedly the largest of it's kind in continental Europe) lies the food lover's heaven. Counters and counters of food, cheeses, sausages, pastas, antipasta, desserts, chocolates, you name it, they have it. There is also a supermarket, as well as bars where you can sit and eat. We went to Feinshcmecker-Etage Grill & Pfanne, one such place. We each had a kind of veal cutlet (Paprikaschnitzel and Jagerschnitzel, the latter is veal with a mushroom sauce, delicious! so tender!). Also ordered a Salat der Saison, a huge salad with the kind of tangy, sweet mustardy dressing that I love in Germany. With a drink each, the bill was 46 marks, around $22. What a deal, for excellent food and service. Many locals go there for dinner or shopping before they head home. Closes at 8pm. One more tip: when you are ready to pay, the waitress or chef will tally up your bill and actually come over to tell you what the total is. If you choose to tip, give them the amount extra you would like to give and pay. You will then be given your change and the receipt. I didn't know about this until I left-how embarrassing. So hopefully, you won't be lost when it's your turn.

This is the famous bus tour-the Bus 100 is the more popular one and Bus 200 was recently added to include a longer route that covers more of the new attractions. Pick up the "Tourist Information" pamphlet at your hotel or Tourist Information and it will tell you the routing. I recommend getting a day-pass (at any booth, metro station machine) so you can get on and off.

These two bus routes combined covers metro Berlin and offers plenty to see. Such attractions as Gedachtniskirche and the legendary Ku'damm, the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag, the Victory Column, Potsdamer Platz, the Berlin Museum, Alexanderplatz, the Volkspark Friedrichshain, the Jewish Cemetery, the Pleasure Garden (Lustgarten), and the Berlin Zoo to name a few.

A day pass costs 8.70 DM and is valid until 3am of the day of stamping. A 7-day pass costs 42.00 DM. A single ride costs 2.50 DM and is valid for 2 hours after stamping. Check with the zones as prices could increase if you go beyond city boundaries.

Here is the website: http://www.bvg.de

This was one of the highlights of my Berlin trip. I knew about the Berlin Wall and its Fall ten years ago, but I didn't really understood why and how all this came about. I recommend anyone visiting Berlin to first see this exhibit as it will help you grasp the magnitude of turmoil and change this city has experienced this century.

The story boards are interesting-they tell both the history of events leading up to the Wall as well as the heroic struggles of the people. There is also a small part of the Wall standing outside the exit, orginal signage from Checkpoint Charlie, and the tools from various escapes. Actual artifacts are on display, such as the hot air balloon, various cars with traps installed to carry men and women across the border. The stories of escape are adventurous and gut-wrenching. There are many films and video coverage from those tumultuous days. Chairs are provided in front of several TV's in various rooms.

There is a small stretch of the Wall remaining a short distance from the museum, down Zimmerstrasse. There is also a small standing piece at the exit of the museum, right outside the door. In addition, there is a small cafe and a museum store. Small plastic boxes containing a chip of the Wall are for sale-it'll be up to you to decide if they are genuine or not.

After you experience this museum, you will understand how different things used to be. When you stand facing the Brandenburg Gate or look out from the Reichstag dome, you will realize how different things used to be not so long ago.

This is the Jewish Museum. Though this museum is not yet opened to the public, you can still marvel at the architecture of Daniel Libeskind. After an extensive security check, you can visit the Holocaust Tower, the underground floor of the still-empty building as well as the Exile Garden. I recommend first going into the Tower. Try to go in when the room is empty, and let the door slam behind you. Look up and you will see the gleam of light at the lone top window, as well as the ladder before you, just high enough you can't reach it. At that moment, you will learn the definition of desolation.

After that, go to the other side and watch the video which explains some history as well as the meaning of the architecture. It was very interesting to understand the zigzag lines that appear throughout (they relate to connections the architect made on the map of Berlin). The Exile Garden is an experience in itself-the architect sought to replicate the feeling of being lost, starting in new land, the feelings of the exiled Jews in a foreign land. When you walk through this garden, that is exactly how you feel. You can't even walk in a straight line-that's powerful architecture for you.

The museum is due to reopen on September 9, 2001. It is presently close for the installation of the exhibit.

Here is the website: www.jmberlin.de

Website: www.topographie.de. This is an outdoor exhibit, trailing the terrors of the Nazi's and the happenings in the Gestapo (the headquarters being the building next to this exhibit). Look out for parts of the Berlin Wall at the back of the exhibit. It is on the site of the Gestapo Prison, where reports of mass murders were sent and compiled. This is ground zero. Don't make the mistake we made-start at the right entrance, and stop by the information trailer to purchase a history brochure. Everything is in German so you need some information to understand it. Though it's in chronological order, I wish I could understand the captions.

This is a temporary building with documentary and excellent models of the new construction in Potsdammer Platz. When the Wall came down, the land on each side was completely deserted and undeveloped (please see entry on Potsdamer Platz for full history.) I say this building is temporary because the structure is to be moved to a new location in the area when all the construction is finished.

Inside this bright red building (you can't miss it), there are exhibits, some interactive and computerized, to show the history of the site and the process leading up to the new construction. Most of the explanations were bilingual. On the top floor, there are many beautiful models of the urban planning of the area. To reach the roof (called the Observation Platform) you need to pay DM2. I found the view from the lower terrace sufficient. There was a hot-air balloon a short distance away that took viewers up for a couple of minutes. It looked like fun but I would imagine the roof view would be easier to get to and cheaper!

There is also a small gift shop with postcards, books and various small items for sale. You can buy a stamp at the cashier and drop your postcard in the special mail box. It will have a special postmark from the Info Box.

Built in 1791, this is the only surviving gate of the old city. It was also part of the Wall dividing East and West Berlin, as well aa the site of numerous photos on that triumphant day on November 9, 1989 when the Wall came down. When the Wall was still up, this was the place where politicians visiting the West would take photos with the Gate elusively on the Eastern side.

As with the Reichstag, the Gate is strung with a long history. It was built as a gate and a triumphant arch and has been a symbol of German solidarity throughout the centuries. Napolean marched under the arch in 1806 and took with him the horse-drawn chariot that sits on top of the Gate. (It was returned several years later.) Later on, it was a site for the revolutionaries and then for many of the Nazis' rallies.

It has recently been reopened to traffic and it's quite a site to watch the cars streaming through this historic sight. However, I believe there is now scaffolding (more like an advertising fabric draped over the Gate, a sight common in Europe these days) while it is being worked on.

My first visit to Brandenburg Gate was on the Reunification day, a joyous day for Germans and the area was filled with crowds and a street fair in celebratory mood. Since the Gate is within walking distance to the Reichstag as well as the newly developed Pariser Platz, this area makes for a fun half day exploration.

Unter den Linden starts at the Brandenburg Gate and used to be one of the grand tree-lined boulevards of Europe. This is in the heart of what used to be East Berlin and it has since been rejuvenated. In the 17th century, royalty built their palaces here and in the 15th century, this was a horseway leading to the King's palace to the hunting lodge. Before the days of Hitler, this used to be the most prestigious boulevard. During the days of Hitler's reign, he replaced the thousands of beautiful trees with Nazi flags. However, due to popular demand, many of the trees were replanted.

Unter den Linden is now a wonderful walk. It is like the Champs Elysee of Berlin, a wide tree-lined boulevard filled with cafes, embassies, and hotels. Strolling from the Brandenburg Gate, you can find the famous Hotel Adlon. It has since been rebuilt after its destruction during World War II. There is also the Russian Embassy, the Humboldt University (where many Nobel prize winners have studied as well as Marx and Lenin). There is a wonderful canal and then a bridge crossing over to Museum Island. This is a beautiful spot for photos and resting.

This is quite a long walk and some of it is covered by the Tourist bus lines. However, if the weather permits and you have a good pair of walking shoes, I highly recommend a stroll down this boulevard.

Before World War II, the land Potsdamer Platz sits on was one of the busiest squares in the whole of Europe. However, when the Wall was built, it was divided right in the center and was left deserted for many years. Now that the Wall is down, this has been a prime development area. About US$4 billion have been spent on this makeover and the results are impressive. Many famous architects, including Renzo Piano, RIchard Rogers and Arata Isozaki, have left their marks here. It is now a vast modern district and remains one of the most active construction sites ever.

This is worth seeing to marvel at how quickly things can change in the new Berlin. Of course, the architecture is top-rate modern and though some areas have the feel of an upscale mall, it exudes a sense of whimsical and sophistication.

The Info Box building (see my entry in this journal) is the logical first stop. There are exhibits, architectural models, and a special mail box to send your postcards with a special Info Box postmark. Once you understand the development that has taken place (and continues to this day), walk over to the complex where Sony, Deutsche Bahn, and Daimler-Chrysler have a strong physical presence. There are restaurants, shops, cinemas, and a man-made lake. It comes complete with its own Cinestar multiplex and an interactive museum.

In reality, this is a man-made environment and a commercial area. But the atmosphere is fun and the energy level high. There are many corporations and apartment complexes here, an urban oasis for living and working. It reminded me of Times Square in New York, but on a much larger scale and with brand new high caliber buildings.

I recommend this as a must-see to fully comprehend the changes Berlin has made in the past few years. Potsdamer Platz is well-covered in many travel articles about the city and it is worth spending a short afternoon here.

The Reichstag is one of the most recognized buildings in Berlin. It has survived over a century of war and destruction. The history of this very important building is long, tragic and significant. The building itself has been rebuilt by British architect Sir Norman Foster, known for his clean and modern designs. It recently re-opened to great fanfare in the spring of 1999. It is now also the new parliamentary home of the Bundestag.

Before the recent construction began in 1995, the artist Cristo wrapped it up the entire building in white polypropylene and deep blue rope. The effect was stunning and the Reichstag regained international attention and was visited by about million people that summer.

I visited the Reichstag one evening to avoid the long lines to get in. It was also around the Reunification Day, so there were crowds everywhere. After about a half hour wait, we were let inside the sleek building. Security was heavy and there was another wait for the elevator to take us up to the dome. From the glass walls, we could see the seats of the parliament, in bright blue color.

I was very impressed by the space. There are winding spiral ramps that go up and down around the dome, enabling both a view outside and inside down to the seats of the parliament. The slope of the ramp is slight and makes for easy walking. However, if you are afraid of heights, I would think twice because you do go quite high up. At the top of the dome is a wonderful space with a large circular wooden seating area with space to lean back on. The top of the dome is opened up to the skies, so you can lie down and gaze up at the beautiful stars. This is really a lovely resting place.

Downstairs, there is a very interesting story board exhibit detailing the history of the dome. I learnt about events leading up to the world wars, including the dark days when Hitler took over after the infamous fire. Outside around the dome are beautiful terraces and a sleek restaurant. The view is magnificent, especially at night with the flickering lights. It is also of interest to note that the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag used to be separated into East and West Berlin. This is another must-see in Berlin, for the architecture and the history.

Here is the website for more information on the history: www.reichstag-info.de

This is a 22-story building that was built in the mid-1960's and is located in the midst of what used to be West Berlin. This was one of my first stops in the city since it houses one of the larger tourist information centers in the city. The building looks very outdated, especially against the backdrop of the new developments on the east side of the city. You can easily spot the building from its Mercedes logo sign rotating at the top of the roof.

When it was first built, it was intended to encourage development of a new downtown. It was also one of Berlin's first skyscapers. Now, it is nothing more than a big outdated mall with a hundred stores and restaurants, a few cinemas, Irish pubs, the Hotel Palace and a swimming pool. The restaurants are very touristy and not recommended.

The Tourist Information Center is quite helpful, although I was given erroneous information about opening hours of a museum. Its hours are 8:30am to 8:30pm, Monday to Saturday; 10am to 6:30pm Sunday. Here is their website: www.btm.de

The Europa-Center is close to the Zoo Garden station.