Long Weekend in Marrakech

Chez Ali is described as a Berber Fantasia: "magical, grandiose, and spellbinding."

While Marrakech town is filled with the heady aromas of freshly ground spices, the sounds of snake charmers, and 1,001 cafes, restaurants, and riads to satisfy your every gastronomic need – why Chez Ali was even built, let alone popular, is beyond me.

Saying that, it’s a must see. About five miles outside Marrakech you join another 50 coaches and minibuses at the ramparts of a replica fort at 9pm. You enter into the main quadrant between two lines of authentic Berber horsemen, straddled across their steeds, leaning menacing rifles on their thighs. An eclectic mixture of local musicians and belly dancers accompanies your walk into the castle enclave, but tarry not – you’ll be noisily serenaded by all of them during dinner!

You arrive at your designated ‘tent’ (one of 20 or so permanent Aladdin-esque marquees). If you booked direct, you’re more likely to sit a private table with your partner; else you’re seated at tables of 8-12. The four-course dinner is excellent, considering the 2000+ people they can cater for. Harira soup, lamb tajine, seven-vegetable couscous with chicken, petit fours, and the juiciest oranges you will ever eat. Wine, beer, and soft drinks are cheap, but local white wines all seem to be medium-sweet. Mint tea is plentiful.

After dining and being serenaded for about an hour, you are led to your stone seats (cold in winter!) around the main arena. The Fantasia proper starts with a belly dancer on a central platform, followed by the aforesaid Berber horsemen showing their acrobatic horseback skills. They re-group in fours and after galloping the length of the arena, fire those rifles. Doing this three times was fine but ten times became a little monotonous. Camels, music and more belly dancing follow. The finale is Aladdin flying on his magic carpet, high across one end of the arena (not exactly Disney; more like two mannequins on a carpet pulled by wires) accompanied by fireworks. It’s 45 minutes maximum and then it’s back to the coaches.

Although tour reps will swear that the locals go to Chez Ali, I think they mean that they go to work there! It is a prime tourist attraction and only enjoyed if your tongue is firmly in cheek. Reservations are required during spring/autumn.

The trois forchettes (three fork) Restaurant Diaffa - pronounced Chaffa - is a sensual experience that mingles luxurious surroundings with excellent foods, fine wines, unsurpassable service and entertainment.

The restaurant is situated within the central medina in a former Riad dating from the 16th century. The riad's courtyard has been covered and restored to luxurious Moroccan standards -- complete with central fountain: This is the main restaurant. The 1st floor balcony overlooking the courtyard is opened during busier periods.

The terrace is a must during the summer, giving a panoramic view over the medina, La Koutoubia Minaret and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains.

You are swept into the restaurant through gargantuan sized carved brass doors by the authentic Moroccan doorman (complete with fez), then taken to your exquisite table by your hostess whom is always on hand to make sure that your every need is satisfied.

The low tables are covered with fine linen and scattered with rose petals; wide, comfortable velvet-cushioned chairs help you sink into relaxation; wine glasses are etched with gold leaf; aperitifs are served in frosted glass, and another waiter with an ice bucket quietly requests how much ice you require.

(If you hadn't figured it out before, it's at about this time that you realise you're going to be treated like royalty and spoilt rotten!)

The menu is simple -- eight courses for 350Dh or seven for pretty much the same. The only difference is one less meat dish and more fruit on the second menu.

Berber musicians play their 'authentic' electric(!) guitars, without disturbing the low whispers of the romantic diners. Later, the belly dancing and Berber foot stomping starts, but by that time you're just glad there's no more food in front of you.

It’s a priceless romantic evening and even though I went with a fellow female traveller, we didn't feel out of place.

Just one piece of advice: Order only one gastronomic eight-course meal to share between two and you won't go away hungry!