Naples

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The Gold of Naples

A travel journal to Naples by travel2000

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I have visited Napoli five times now. In this often misunderstood gem of Italy, there is much to immerse yourself in. Forget the myths about Napoli being a dangerous destination. It is the most truthful, unspoilt big city in Italy, not to mention the delicious food to please your stomach.

  • 10 reviews
  • 1 story/tip
  • 3 photos

The Gold of NaplesBest of IgoUgo

Overview

signs
Pizza...oh yes, the place where it all began. Discard all previous knowledge of what pizza should be and let Napoli lead the way. The Bay of Naples with the mighty Vesuvius in the background, all the wonders of the Archeological museum, Capodimonte, the Veiled Christ at Cappella San Severo...and the shopping. Watch how they dress and follow suit.

Quick Tips:

Stay away from the train station. It is chaotic there and not the soul of naples. Remember this city is also a great kick-off for the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Herculaneum, Capri and Ischia (check out my other journal on that beautiful island) Try to get as much information about the city before you come as the city has not been invaded by tourists yet so sometimes it's hard to find help. Hotels are good sources.

If traveling by train, have your schedules clarified in Rome or other cities first. Otherwise, be prepared to experience a wonderful city where the people are friendly and have big hearts.

For information on eating out in Naples, please visit my journal Eating Out in Naples.

Best Way To Get Around:

Train and planes are easy ways to get into town. There is a metro, as well as extensive buses. There are convenient funiculars up and down the hills. However, do not consider driving IN the city unless you have experience in chaos! They have their own set of rules-unless you are a fast learner, forget about it! Consider driving into town if you can find parking or drop off the car at the city.

I rent from Auto Europe as they have great rates. Check out their website AutoEurope.com.

Bw Hotel ParadisoBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Paradiso"

OK, it's not in the city center, but if you want to wake up overlooking the Bay of Naples, this is your hotel. It's part of the Best Western clan, so you may get some good deals by booking through their website.
http://www.bestwestern.it
I recently booked for my parents and got them senior rates for about $120 per night. Make sure you get a confirmation number through email or fax from Best Western or the hotel itself. I made two reservations and they almost cancelled one because they were both under my name. Breakfast is included, a full buffet on the top floor. You can sit outside on the patio as well. Make sure you get the highest floor room, as much to the right side of building as possible. That way, you don't overlook the roof and you get better views.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Bw Hotel Paradiso
VIA CATULLO 11 Naples, Italy
39 081 2475111

Hotel BelvedereBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

This is on top of the hill next to the Certosa di San Martino. It's closer to town than the Paradiso, but the rooms are downright depressing and old. However, the room we booked for our friends had a corner wrap around balcony, overlooking the city. You could see as far as the airport. That was the highlight, plus it's near Vomero, the shopping district where all the Neapolitans go to. You won't find many tourists there but there are good restaurants, cafes and shops.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Hotel Belvedere
Via T. Angelini 51 Naples, Italy
(081) 578-8169

GoriziaBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

This place has been around for years. My husband's family used to go there for family lunches when he was growing up. Go for lunch between shopping in Vomero and order rounds of antipasti. We had zucchini flowers fried, marinated eggplants and zucchini and peppers, octopus, cicinielli (small fish fried), focaccia (really delicious)...it was all so much and so good we went straight to dessert.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Gorizia
via Bernini Naples, Italy

Da MicheleBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

This is ground zero for pizza-they serve only two kinds-magherita (mozzarella, tomato and basil) and marinara (tomato and garlic). Order one or the other OR BOTH and a beer and you are all set. Ok, this is the competition of Trianon, down the street. Both are good but I think this has the edge. Try both and decide for yourself.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Da Michele
Via Cesare Sersale, 1/3 Naples, Italy
+39 081 553-9204

Museo Cappella San SeveroBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Museo Cappella Sansevero"

This chapel is in the heart of the Old Naples, locked away in a small alley. Be sure to check opening hours before you go. (Website: http://www.ic-napoli.com/sansevero/) You enter a discreet entrance, pay your tolls at the entry booth, and in a few more steps, you come face to face with the sculpture Christ in Veil in a small chapel covered with frescoes. This sculpture shows Christ laying beneath the intricate folds of the shroud covering his body. It is simply astounding how fluid this sculpture is. There is another equally fine sculpture of man struggling to free himself of fish netting. What a sight. It was hard to believe this was all carved from marble. This chapel was the playground of Prince Raimondo di Sangro in the 1700's. He was a scientist, alchemist, a curious man. He commissioned all the artwork and sculptures. In the basement, there are two experiments-'bodies' created by injecting lead into the veins and organs of one female and one male body. The result is a morbid yet intricate study of the human body. There is much debate on the authenticity of these subjects-see for yourself and decide. I was certainly sold, as I could not imagine any other way to obtain the results.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Museo Cappella San Severo
Via Francesco De Sanctis, 19 Naples, Italy

Il Museo Archeologico NazionaleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Museo Archeologico Nazionale"

This holds a ton of stuff-supposedly it has the best collection of Greek and Roman antiquities plus mosiacs and items from Pompeii and Herculaneum. When you are at Pompeii and see missing sections of floor mosaics, chances are it's at the Museum. I found it a bit overwhelming as signs were nowhere to be found. I was left with my museum guidebook and some educated guesses. Nevertheless, I walked away with a renewed curiosity and utmost admiration for the old world.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Il Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Piazza Museo Nazionale, 19 Naples, Italy 80135
+39 081440166

Vomero districtBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

This is where the locals take their strolls, in the late afternoons and weekends. Remember that stores still close for lunch and reopen at 4:30 until 7pm or later. I buy the bulk of my clothes and shoes here. There is also a Coin and Upim department store here. I prefer Coin as they have better quality merchandise.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Vomero district
Vomero Naples, Italy

Via Toledo (via Roma)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

This district is near the Galleria (a must-see, similar to the one in Milano) and the Royal Palace. You can buy cheap or expensive clothes and shoes here. On my recent trip, my husband bought men's shirts and ties at Piermar (point out a few things at the window, and the gentlemen will bring out an array of shirts, ties, jackets to your taste). I bought a wool coat for $50 (yes, that's the price, don't remember the store though) and leather slippers (men and women) as well as raided Stefanel at its end of season sale. Stop by Gambrinus for gold guilded cafes and soak in the atmosphere by sitting outside.

My only gripe about shopping in Naples is, not all the stores are part of the Tax-Free program, meaning you won't get your tax back even if you shop over 300,000 lire there. I have tried to bargain with the store owners and have gotten some discounts. The most recent time was when I purchased a piece of luggage for 440,000 and got 8% off. However, I find that overall, the prices for merchandise tend to be lower so it works out about the same.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by travel2000 on October 30, 2000

Via Toledo (via Roma)
Via Toledo and via Chiaia Naples, Italy

Via Caracciolo (Promenade)Best of IgoUgo

Attraction

This is the pedestrian walkway along the Bay of Naples. It's like the Promenade des Anglais in Nice. A nice walk along the water that takes you from the harbour at Mergellina (one of the Hydrofoil piers) to Piazza Vittoria and then to the Castel dell'Ovo (the Castle.) There are street vendors along the way selling food and souveniers. On Sundays, this becomes a pedestrian-only zone. You'll enjoy the view and when you reach the Castle, you can sit down for a nice meal at the many restaurants there.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by travel2000 on November 11, 2000

Via Caracciolo (Promenade)
Via Caracciolo Naples, Italy

mozzarella di bufalaBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

This is the best mozzarella you can get-made from buffalo milk and kneaded by hand. Genuine mozzarella does not travel well, so you must try this in Napoli or surrounding area. (Salerno and Caserta are the producers, the only places suitable to raising buffaloes) You don't find it anywhere else in Italy, and if you do, it's not the same freshness and taste. Have it with sliced tomatoes (pick out the ugly big ones-they are the most tasty).

About the Writer

travel2000
travel2000
New York, New York

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